|
Forum: Lens Clubs
01-27-2023, 03:32 PM
|
| |
Ok understood
One thing I find is that when using many long tiles with very long focus throw, is that you need to be constantly aware of the approximate shooting range, and also keeping your lens set to this range. You can’t walk around treating it with a spur of the moment lens, because you can’t rotate the focus collar fast enough.
It also helps to have pre metered, using green button in manual, mode, so that shooting is a simple matter of quick focus adjust, followed bo stopping down to the preset FStop and pressing the shutter.
The other thing you need to do is make sure the viewfinder diopter is correctly set.
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
01-27-2023, 07:53 AM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
12-28-2018, 02:33 PM
|
| |
With or without the hood? These lenses really need a good hood
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
12-26-2018, 11:49 AM
|
| |
The middle shot seems to have a loss of contrast in the middle, is this rear element reflection off the sensor? I don't get that with my 85mm/1.9 tak
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
08-06-2015, 02:18 PM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
03-06-2015, 04:58 AM
|
| |
Mike. The glass in the adaptor makes it like a teleconverter, because it changes the lens magnification to compensate for the difference in the pentax regestry distance plus the thickness of the adaptor, compared to the much shorter canon FD regestry distance . From memory it is about a 1.45x conversion. The adaptor I have is a two element one, which leads to really soft images wide open, but somewhat more useful sharpness stopped down. Combined with the crop sensor, it really makes anything you had for your AE-1 a telephoto. Some of the lenses you likely have would make good portrait lenses when used with this adaptor , especially for soft effects, due to the color bleeding and softness of backgrounds . It might be worth experimenting with a 1.4x teleconverter lens set in place of the cheap glass in the adaptor to see if you can make a workable solution
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
11-27-2014, 07:52 PM
|
| |
Thee lever is for open aperture metering, it was the last addition to the spotmatic before the k series bodies came out.
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
08-29-2014, 03:23 PM
|
| |
Or you can do street shots of camera happy tourists:lol:
I'd love to see one of a tourist with an ipad. Last time I was I paris, it was hard to see the louvre due to the wall to ipad screens:lol:
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
08-28-2014, 01:45 PM
|
| |
You really need to take it out for candid street shots.
Tak a trip to paris / pont neuf and watch the people go by. Great opportunities are every where.
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
09-22-2013, 04:50 AM
|
| |
If you have a glass in adaptor for M42 to Nikon it should manage the infinity focus,
Canon is much easier, it has a shorter registration distance. You give up about 1mm from memory. I have not opened up my 200/3.5 to know how much infinity adjustment there is
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
09-07-2013, 05:32 AM
|
| |
For that matter, get the 16mm zenitar fisheye, you can get it for about $200 in M42 or K, (the Kis a little more expensive)
I paid about $180 for a brand new zenitar M42 to get the wide end of my M42 kit. (I have samyang 8 and 14mm in my k mount line up)
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
05-30-2013, 10:50 AM
|
| |
The 200/3.5 is a nice lens but is a little short, even with the cropped sensor on the Pentax DSLRs. I prefer it over later 200/4 lenses.
For more length, I went with a Nikkor H 300/4.5 which I modified to M42 mount using the mount off a donor lens, and some shims to maintain the correct regestry distance.
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
02-11-2013, 03:17 PM
|
| |
Does any one have the service manual for the 90mm F2.5 macro model 52BB
My version seems to have the focus helix and aperture slightly loose, and whe the focus is changed the aperture changes by about 1 stop.
It is likely something has come loose internally
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
09-18-2012, 05:44 AM
|
| |
why not?
If you are that close to a bull elk it has likely been shot first!:D
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
07-08-2012, 12:10 AM
|
| |
What I do is similar to most where I check the histogram and adjust Ev comp in Av mode but with a small twist. Metering is a bit variable especially with my K10 that I use on M42 lenses. I know the behavior and variation with aperture so I set the aperture and use the A/M switch for focusing wide open then stop down to shoot. My Ev comp is set to center the histogram with a uniform surface
Works the same way with presets too
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
06-08-2012, 05:13 AM
|
| |
but would the color be impacted by the rendering of mike's takumars:D
Sorry mike, i couldn't resist, glad to see you back
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
05-28-2012, 05:28 AM
|
| |
I would agree
I just played around with the histogram for a few seconds here and applied a mild S Curve to the histogram using PSP X4
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
05-03-2012, 04:09 AM
|
| |
I think mike has an advantage over most people as his truck window puts him above most of his subjects. It is an interesting and different viewpoint
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
04-11-2012, 04:17 AM
|
| |
I went with the zenitar 16mm fisheye for the wide end of my M42 kit, at $180 new in M42 it seems like the right selection. So far I have been impressed with it
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
03-22-2012, 03:52 AM
|
| |
I am surprised, I have never needed that much with my tak's but any way, I do agree, that of you have also to deal with needing ev comp for back lighting or highly I white biased shots, you are left at the end of the adjustment.
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
03-22-2012, 03:49 AM
|
| |
I have the hood for my 85/1.9 but use the 135/200 hood because the reduced sensor size is still within the FOV for the longer hood and the older tak's are a little prone to flare. In fact I step down all my hoods in a similar way for that reason. There is a spreadsheet that I uploaded called hoodcalc that calculates the maximum hood length if you know the sensor size, hood diameter and front element diameter(not filter thread but the actual element). The length it returns is the distance from the front element to the edge of the hood, so if the front element is recessed you need to obviously subtract that distance
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
03-21-2012, 08:41 AM
|
| |
why not just set your EV comp to offset the error?
After all, that is what the compensation is there for.
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
01-14-2012, 05:34 AM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
01-07-2012, 06:05 AM
|
| |
I have almost the same set. Get an adaptor and go have fun. Pay particular attention to the 200/3.5. There are a few of us here with that lens, and there are sample images in the sample forum. It is , I think the best 200 tak, and I prefer it to the SMC 200/4. The 85 is a good lens but take off any filters you consider, as it can have a lot of filter induced flare. The only difference between your set and mine is my 35 is the SMC tak F2
|
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
12-24-2011, 03:49 PM
|
| |
What you see is the longitudinal CA. Green behind the plane of focus, purple in front. I have the same lens and although it has it's faults I quite prefer this over the SMC tak 200/4
|
