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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
07-28-2018, 02:32 PM
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I wait for magnification loope. Now I can get sense with changing camera on guaranty when I get 77 ltd.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
07-07-2018, 02:41 AM
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How check AF is proparly calibrated? I only check it by zoom to 100% on PC and camera screen to check that I don't miss focus (if red dot AF point is sharp in image I think that is correct).
So changing focus screen is waste of time. Spot metering is usefull for me. I use it for flash to control ambient light in manual mode (M).
Compensating is not big deal if affect of metering is constant fx. dark background make some my photos about EV +1 that I need -1EV correction of that to proper exposition to avoid overburn if I use AV auto mode in K3 II.
I like Live View for some work, but after taking above 11 000 photos I prefer classic view finder. Yes, UncleVanya Live view is working very well for me. It is maybe not such contrast and more dust like view with shh noise, but it is quite OK. If I use AF is more comfort to use view finder because I more isolated from surronding light and avoid reflection on screen.
That is correct. I used before K200D and K3 II is more comfortable. I'm learning my new body. I take only about 1,5 thousand photos on them.
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I think suggested eye cup is the best way to improve my manual focus experience. Only I affraid that losing corners maybe troublesome. As is zoom in is not crop view area?
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
07-06-2018, 03:22 PM
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Intro
Good morning everyone!
Is my first post, so you be patience of any my mistakes.
Types of photos
As owner new K-3 II body I want improve manual focusing accuracy. When I use standard focusing screen (Factory from Pentax) a lot of time I miss focus. When I take off my glasses is ok, but after about 20 minutes my eyes lost ability to MF well, because is too hard for them. I write about specific producer focusing screen, because my favorite KatzEye is out of business. I read theads about changing focusing screen, but I can't find answer on my specific questions.
I have lens: Pentax 77/1.8, Pentax M 50/1.7, Sigma 28/2.8 macro (but temporary if I find buyer I will sell it) and I plan in near future Pentax 100/2.8 WR macro. In longer time I hope I can get something wide like Pentax 15/4 and telezoom FA 70-200/2.8. From wide angle I like positions with near ground (like frog) and close to subject fx. base of trees etc. I use 77 ltd as basic lens for all - flowers, snicky street photo, portrait, interesting details around me. I plan use Pentax 100 macro to get 1:1 magnification of things around me to get them unexpected perspective, details and both artistic look with blooring background and making all in focus (F >= 8) as some part of taking photos (I plan use all the F with more DOF like F8-F16 too, but is another story). I thing about using 1.4x teleconverter in the future. I am not buying lens with F > 4, I prefer 2.8 or better lens (like F < 2.8) as I make a lot of photos indoor and sometimes 2.8 is not enought (without flash of course, but in some place and situations like new born kids I can't use flash).
I have glasses and I get astigmatism. I have problem with correction view finder when I use my body without glasses. With them when I correct dioptres I have misfocus. Without glasses I see when is focus, but when I long not used glasses I don't feel well, especially with viewing more detailed elements, parts etc. When I use glasses picture in view finder is not 100% sharp, but is less sharper about few %. As astigmatic I have one glass moved in axe vertical to correct my eyes. It is look like when normaly glass is on vertical axe 0 degree I have some degree moved. AF is the must, but in some place I would feel like more free man and use manual focus.
So then, my questions:
1. Changing focusing screen will affect my body guarantee (Europe)? I will lost them when I replace focusing screen?
2. Is a posible using external flash (I have Pentax 540) with split image on focusing screen with automatic (non manual) P-TTL mode? I am new in subject and I'm going to use more flash in manual mode, but know when I'm learning I prefer use correct exposition of flash to make effects.
3. How spot metering is affected with split image? Is a posible get proper values of times for F in manual mode like metering the most inlightened object in scene? Value of metering is affected, but is a constant which can be corrected or is random?
4. I want using focusing screen to get focus in places when I can not use AF, because AF point is not there. The most troubles with focus I get with small parts of things and nature like stalk of flowers, stem, pistils, petals, edges with extremaly low F ( F <= 2.8). For larger things I use AF the most of times, but I would fx. get proper focus on eyes wiht extreme blurring background in some cases. So what is the best focusingscreen.com type for me? Firstly I thing about K3 K3 Focusing Screen, because microprism is larger around split image or K-3 S TYPE Focusing Screen as is lighter and more detailed in viewing focus as I read on Nikon users of this product. Is a good choice or you can suggest me some better?
5. Few years ago I few minutes show old Pentax SLR with split screen 45 degree and microprism, but it was a old film camera. So in reality focus screen for MF like K3 or S type really make sense for me? Is a changing a lot of when I use glasses? Using this type of item I can get fx. info when I focus fx. on extreme edge from left when I don't have AF point it is can be usefull? Can I get any information that I am on focus, because I don't see microprism structure, but clean view? Split image in the center change geometry of some part of image by moving lines. Can it be used for anything else than center area in real photo scenario? On my body I get green focus indicator with sound for that area, so is it a really necessary?
Thank you for your time. Any sugesstion will be appreciated.
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