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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
07-05-2017, 11:38 PM
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Based on the photo posted, I would say your K1000 meter was doing its job correctly. There is still some detail in the bright side of the what appears to be the caboose, you can pick out detail in the shadows underneath the cars, and the passenger car reveals some very pleasing tones of gray. However, if you feel the need to get a more accurate light reading before taking the photograph, just use a gray card.
As for light metering accuracy, there are certainly very accurate methods of measuring light. However, they are really overkill for photography, even slide photography. Center weighted measurements, such as the metering used by your K1000, are usually quite good, but are older technology and can be fooled a little bit easier and may require you to give a bit more thought to the exposure.
Matrix metering, such as that done by many modern dslr cameras, is more accurate because the meter is measuring many different parts of the scene separately, and then comparing that to a library of options contained in the camera's computer memory. This is certainly more accurate but also requires a lot of electronics and computer software.
Spot metering, once you learn to do it properly, is probably the most accurate metering method. But it is not as easy nor as quick for most people to work with as the other two methods. It also makes it easier to make judgement calls regarding the exposure you prefer if the dynamic range of your scene is wider than your film (or sensor) can work with. Do you let the highlights blow out...or do you let the shadows loose much of their texture and detail?
But, if you use a gray card, your K1000 meter can be almost as useful as most other meters out there. Metering the gray card gives you an accurate reading of the light illuminating your scene. Then it is up to you, with your experience, to decide if the full dynamic range of the scene can be captured, or if you are going to have to let the highlights or shadows suffer. Based on your photo I would have to say that the scene had just a tad more dynamic range then the film could capture. Not much, maybe a third of a stop. But considering that there is really no way to make 1/3rd stop adjustments with a K1000 I think the meter, and the camera, did a pretty good job for you.
No matter how you measure it, and no matter how accurate your meter is measuring the light, you still have to decide if you want to use the meter's advice or if you want to modify the reading.
I have been working with the K1000 meter since the mid 80s and have found that it is amazingly useful and accurate and the photo you posted gives me no reason to change my mind.
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