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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
05-08-2018, 09:04 AM
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And that is easy to change in the default settings of the camera body or post processing.
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
05-07-2018, 09:07 AM
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All of this discussion is getting tedious. The OP has too many variables in his question. I don't understand anyone saying that a polarizer will pass more than 1/4 the light coming in. For the 60 years or so I have been using cameras, a polarizer is 2 stops light loss. That doesn't change for circular/non circular. Circular Polarizers are to solve problems with the AF system and other sensor/mirror problems due to the light splitting.
The answer to exposure problems is Manual Exposure mode and your brain. I still use this table with the M 400 because most of the time I get a better exposure than with the fancy meter in the K-3 which will only give me center weighted exposures with non-A lenses.
Do this simple math to get accurate exposures. It used to be printed on a delightful little piece of paper that came in your box of film. It still works. Adjust shutter and aperture to equivalent exposures for special treatments. For example, with the DA 12-24, I never use an aperture smaller than f/11 and prefer f/8 whenever possible to avoid diffraction errors. On bright sand below: ISO 100 = 1/100 @ f/22 = 1/200 @ f/16 = 1/400 @ f/8 ...
Shutter speed = 1/ISO
Subject extremely bright (sandy beach) f/22
Subject lit by direct sun f/16
Subject lit by sidelight f/11
Subject lit by backlight f/8
Partially cloudy add one stop
Bright cloudy add two stops
Dark cloudy add three stops
Polarizer: add 2 stops
#2 Dark Orange filter (one of my favourites in film days) add 1.5 stops
Each camera manufacturer has its own idea of correct exposure. Pentax tends (correctly in my opinion) to underexpose by about 1/2 stop and always has. This was correct for slide film and remains correct for sensors. If you blow out the highlights, there is no way to get it back. You can increase the brightness in printing and post processing with very little loss in the darks until you are underexposed more than 1 stop.
If you have a tricky subject, meter the darkest area with detail you want to keep and reduce two stops or spot meter the brightest you want to keep and add two stops.
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
05-06-2018, 01:51 AM
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Try the Pentax in Green mode (Green square). This will eliminate most of the optional settings, and should come close to the Nikon.
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