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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 03-12-2019, 04:01 PM

Running & Gunning Softbox?
Posted By BruceBanner

Replies: 40
Views: 4,384

No worries :)

I only have one Magbounce, they're actually pretty pricey, $99 for another one over here. I did think about running and gunning with two speedlights and magbounces, but really once you add the handle (which extends the weight further way from the arm/wrist) things start to get 'heavy'. I workout and keep pretty fit, I don't like the idea of trying to sustain running and gunning sessions with more weight than I have come up with. Really I am hoping a diffuser gel before the magbounce will result in a similar output as the umbrella, as at this point the assembling and packing away of the umbrella aspect of the rig is a tad annoying. Ideally I want some kind of belt hoop where I can just dock the flash onto when not needed.

I didn't actually have any miss shots in my session with the Octa. I didn't have any miss shots for any of the other shots either. I mean I did take more shots (hence if you check the flickr file numbers there are gaps) but they were just repeat shots in case I missed focus or double checking that a second and third shot resulted in a similar look (which they did). It was kinda simple because I knew already I was fighting sun and in HSS territory so I simply just put the flashes into manual mode at 1/1 (my rationale was why bother with any other power setting, I'm gonna need as much as I can get). Then it's really a case of adjusting the distance of the stand at that power to see the difference.
I did at the end of the session muck around and whilst the flashes were in the octa box (when the Octabox was close to Davo) put them into P-TTL mode and left them at 0.0EV, this was the result;

So still producing a nice level of illumination but I would want to amp it up a bit more (but didn't have time, it was getting dark and my dinner getting cold :D :lol:) I was just testing really to see if I could get a nice exposure in the sky (which I did) and still in P-TTL mode through the diffuser and grid with two flashes in a P-TTL fashion get something usable, which I did, and I had plenty of EV compensation to play with from here.

But really, I think 1/1 makes more sense, or 1/2 and then just play with distance a little more than mess with P-TTL or continue tinkering with power. Easier to back off if too much (when hand holding) and crop shot in post vs mess with a dial. Of course with a stand it can be a little trickier, I had some wind so I tent pegged my stand down (and I'm on uneven ground), so adjusting power would make more sense in that situation.

For sure I am not finished testing and posting results. Where I think the octabox helps is when I want to shoot further back and handholding a flash can't happen, and firing from afar = too little reach. The Octa with two speedlights seems to overcome that.

I could however lightstand the lacrosse rig close to the subject, stand back and get a similar shot however the flash would be in the shot so would need masking out, which if done properly would also mean tripodding the camera up for the two shots with and without the stand. So that's an additional tripod/lightstand coming on the trip...
Then there is the question of whether the light from the lacrosse rig would be sufficient to cover all the subject or just the torso etc. The Octabox with 2 speedlights from 3m looked to be doing a decent job of covering all the subject, or like rather enough. It's what I'm still curious about with a large 150cm Parabolic Umbrella like this; 60 inch 150cm Parabolic Umbrella for Studio Photography Reflective Large
No diffusion intended for this rig (perhaps you can attach a diffuser umbrella pointing the other direction, but the way the umbrella fans out makes me think the light would be spread around more (albeit weaker).
Point is, if you're already going on in the field with a light stand or tripod then an umbrella is not a huge issue to carry as well.

Stay tuned for more test shots, not sure about today tho, the weather is a bit damp and miserable.

---------- Post added 03-13-19 at 10:17 AM ----------

Just watched this now. I like the ingenuity and thinking behind the shot, not sure I actually like the shot itself however. He looks overly orange like the CTO is too much or something, and the fake blue water... hmm... I dunno. There's this weird water backdrop, but I'm confused, is he in the water or not... he looks kinda dry lol. I mean... he's in swimmers... I'm already drawing the conclusion he's a famous swimmer lol. I find it hard they couldn't have done a shoot when the pool closed or some other pool? I mean... he's kinda big deal guy with a big name photographer and no strings could be pulled?
Eh, I think a nice portrait done in an outside cafe in the hustle and bustle of the city, civi clothes, natural light, maybe some HSS fill light at the most with maybe something subtle like goggles around his neck or forehead would be far cooler and quirkier :D :lol:
I just think the shot is a bit fake and cliché (but I admire the effort and prep work).

Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 03-12-2019, 04:04 AM

Running & Gunning Softbox?
Posted By BruceBanner

Replies: 40
Views: 4,384

Ok, wait up... there's maybe some confusion as to my intention with mixing Godox and Cactus so I'll first address that (no doubt my fault as I am terrible at explaining stuff).

1) For 'running & gunning' I feel pretty sorted with the cactus lacrosse + Umbrella combo (and have some more pics to show this below). If I replace this set up with a Godox V1 or V680II triggered from an Xpro-P then that could be fine too, depends how easily and sturdy I can make that design work as I feel I will be relying on the footplate screw hole/hotshoe as a means of rigging that up.

2) The other aspect of 'running & gunning' is that 'single light in the field' set up, here's where the AD200 would be helpful (like how you have illustrated), or... can I make do with two speedlights? (see more details below). I don't think of this so much as running & gunning but rather ultra small portable studio set up, which means at least a light stand and quick set up/take down times, on location shoots etc. AD200 is attractive due to the power output for this scenario... but then if adding an AD200+XproP to the collection my mind then starts to think about what other applications can I bring the AD200 into? Can I successfully trigger and control it's power output via a V6ii somehow if using a multi light studio set up (with my current equipment, ie cactus stuff)? Something where I don't want or need P-TTL or HSS, but can get 1-2 RF60x's firing and one AD200 (as the key light) etc? If this was feasible, even via running a cable around the joint that might be what I could settle with, vs selling RF60x units, buying new Godox ones and losing possibly a nice 'running and gunning' rig as well as funds in the transfer and acquisition of new stuff. Truth is I have never used a strobe before, so I am intrigued as to how much better the quality of light can be, especially from a studio perspective.
The Godox V1 will likely replace my AF360FGZII at some point tho, I'm more interested in that than anything else tbh, especially if it can manage the trick that the little TT350P can (which is to fire HSS in full Manual power control...). I would use the V1 in the hotshoe of my camera and through the roundflash softbox, which I think is a neat little thing.

So it might be I always run and gun with a V6ii and RF60x, sell the other RF60x (and v6ii, and AF360FGZII), use a AD200 + V1 + XproP for studio stuff and on location shoots... I'm not sure I really need more than 2 lights firing in a studio set up, and I think we can trigger the RF60x optically from that set up anyway?

But I am interested in my interim solutions, those points between buying the AD200 and not fully switching across.

I had forgot that Godox had come up with a nifty way of sitting an AD200 in the hotshoe of a camera via that extension thingy you have. The thing is, I'm not sure I'll ever need that much power on top of the camera (ceiling bouncing in a church perhaps... and blind the congregation? :D). But the extension part has a hotshoe, is it a coldshoe? Could you connect a V6ii in Rx mode to that extension part and then somehow control the AD200 successfully from a V6ii(Tx) on camera? Guessing not :(

Pics of that set up by chance?

---------

Ok... so I'm steering this thread slightly back onto it's initial point which was running and gunning softbox options. Tonight I had some time to use my handy assistant Davo once again to help with some low light evening HSS work in my garden testing a variety of options in a semi decent controlled manner.

My initial aim here was to have my camera and flash tripodded/lightstand to mimic someone whom might be 'running and gunning', with the extremely patient and cooperative subject staying in the same spot under the same lighting conditions we could see the difference in light fall off and quality output.

This was the scene;

It's kinda hard to see from the pic (I took a bad angle shot in a hurry as I was trying to work fast and not lose too much light/get drastically different lighting conditions throughout the tests..) but the camera is just behind the flash. We're to imagine here I am holding the camera and holding the flash lacrosse style (Stage 1 image pictured in previous post above).

Conditions;
Camera and flash are a little over a metre from the subject. I am using the K-1 with FA43. I am shooting into the sun, the sunlight (at this time) is hitting the back of Davo's head, a classic 'sun lit rim hair' shot (that when exposed nicely for the hair the subject would typically be underexposed silhouette without the help of flash). The FA Ltd's are not known for controlling flare so you will see some flare in these shots, but it's intentional (in a portrait I quite like a little flare). All shots shot RAW and then used the Convert to Jpg in camera and then directly uploaded to flickr, absolutely zero retouching.

First up, Stage 1, 'Lacrosse stick' only;

In Camera:
Av Mode
1/1600
F1.9
ISO 100
-0.7 EV

Flash
Manual 1/1
Zoom 50mm

It's worthwhile clicking the picture and visiting the flickr site whereby you can zoom in and see the image in a little more detail. Here we can see the flash has done an ok job, the nose shadow is still kinda harsh for my liking however, but still probably better than bare flash. (which is something I didn't test and should have shown for comparison sake (and also a non flash shot! Nevermind...)

Next up we do a 'Stage 2' shot, same as before this time simply introducing a diffusion umbrella as shown below;

(here we can see the camera better now, and before anyone asks I did position myself at the camera and have my hand out to the side to see if I could touch or easily hold the flash and indeed I could, so these shots really do represent what could be done 'on the go' handheld).

Stage 2, 'Lacrosse + Umbrella';

In Camera:
Av Mode
1/1600
F1.9
ISO 100
-0.7 EV

Flash
Manual 1/1
Zoom 50mm

Wow! Ok... things are looking much better. It looks like we've lost a little light but the overall quality of light is much better, zooming into the face and we can see the shadow fall off from the nose is much softer, a definite improvement. It looks like the umbrella works wonders and is definitely worth adding to the rig.

It was only after these shots were taken and I was back at the computer that I had the idea to try out magmods own diffuser filter gel thingy and try to use that instead of the umbrella (for ease and less chance of poking someone's eye out!). If you're not aware Magmod have a little magnetic 'filter holder' thing that can hold gels and stuff, one of them is a diffuser, so perhaps putting this on first, then the magbounce and we might get something similar to the above but in a more streamlined safer package, will have to test and get back to you all on that.

Ok, so now I wanted to see what I could manage with my Godox umbrella, the same one I used a few days ago with my kids bouncing on the trampoline but this time in a more controlled manner. So a new setup was created;

Here we now have the flash and camera about 2.8-3m back from the subject, I am starting to lose a little light now, but still I am getting shutter speeds in the HSS zone so I soldier on. Please note that this shot shows the softbox in full swing with a diffuser and grid, but I did not start off that way, only through the session did I start adding those elements in.

Bare Octa + 2x RF60x's

In Camera:
Av Mode
1/1600
F1.9
ISO 100
-0.7 EV

Flash
2x Manual 1/1
Zoom 24mm

Cool! We got quite a bit of light, plenty to work with here and we're still 3m back with the softbox. Still... if we zoom in we can see some harshness of the light, that straight edged nose shadow is starting to come back in. But... do we care? I mean... shooting further back like this is more about the context of the scene more than light fall off properties (at least that's kinda my take on it).

Next up we do the same again and add a diffuser panel to the soft box, see what happens? why not!

Octa + Diffuser + 2x RF60x's;

In Camera:
Av Mode
1/1250
F1.9
ISO 100
-0.7 EV

Flash
2x Manual 1/1
Zoom 24mm

Things to note, we're still in Av Mode, still -0.7 EV but we've dropped some shutter speed. Thing are still (ambiently) exposed the same but the addition of the diffuser panel has robbed us of some brightness on the subject. However, we can see the quality of light is better, the nose shadow much improved.

So lastly, just to see we add the grid and for giggles move the lightstand+Octabox a lot closer, I want to see how well we can light Davo up!

Octa + Diffuser + Grid + 2xRF60x's;

In Camera:
Av Mode
1/800
F2.0
ISO 100
-0.7 EV

Flash
2x Manual 1/1
Zoom 24mm

Alright! Davo's looking great! We have an abundance of light to work with here and the shadow fall off is really acceptable. Of course in this frame we can see the softbox, so I would need to switch lens to something like a FA77, or reposition myself or tripod up, take the shot, then move the softbox and take a second shot without it in frame to assist with masking it out in post. I somehow knocked the aperture up to F2 and we lost some more light and shutter speed but it's all good!

So... there you go. I hope someone finds this interesting, I know I did. I shall attempt some more shots tomorrow. I would like to see how the lacrosse stick + diffuser gel (instead of umbrella) handles and also I might try playing around with the Octa box again but this time see if I can get an idea of the spill of light (maximise coverage area and not so 'spotlight like'), see if changing where I aim the speedlights inside the octabox really matters or not (from being pointed at the centre or slightly off etc) and also changes in zoom settings (16mm-200mm). I have also not used but perhaps can factor in the third speedlight AF360FGZII for some additional power..

I would also like to try in harsher conditions, perhaps midday, see if we can get some extreme HSS situations going and see how we go.

Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 03-11-2019, 01:30 PM

Running & Gunning Softbox?
Posted By BruceBanner

Replies: 40
Views: 4,384

Nop, thanks will check that out :)

So it's messy...

I don't know if I'm repeating myself here but part of the attraction of holding onto the cactus is the screw hole and how I have all the plates attached to them, makes setting up and pulling down a breeze and the ease of using either a tripod or lightstand is fantastic. If I completely port across to Godox (and grab V1's/V860II's) they don't have screw holes on them, only on the foot plate, which I think would make things 'top heavy' and prone to possibly damage etc, just a worst system in general I think if going down the route I have designed. But then there is lots to appreciate such as the superior batteries (but I even now have a Ep-1 cactus battery pack as well as a billion rechargable AA batteries i.e. I have invested fairly heavily into this, what's missing is just adding a strobe to the set up..)

I do have two V6ii's, in theory I could leave one as Pentax Firmware for best control over RF60x's and set another one to being Multibrand in an effort to bring the AD200 into the equation.

Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 03-10-2019, 10:09 PM

Running & Gunning Softbox?
Posted By BruceBanner

Replies: 40
Views: 4,384

About back button focus, I use it too, quite a lot actually. I do mild brenizers and use it for other shooting conditions. I do however utilise all my 5 User Modes and some are bound to back button focus and others not. I find for example that with Face Detection and shooting kids it's best to use the front shutter button as the small gap in time from getting focus with the back button and then using transitioning to using the shutter button to take the shot can account for a small amount of movement of the kid which can ruin the shot. So I have one user mode set as 'kid face detection mode' and use that which is shutter button only for focusing and tend to get more success. Of course other User Modes are back button focusing, and AF.C action stuff etc etc, but that's where exploiting your camera to it's fullest potential comes into play. You miss less shots when you set your user modes up and get used to them. A flip of the dial for a different context is way quicker than a menu setting change, so if you don't already use your User Modes I would encourage you to explore this aspect. My User Modes for example;

User Mode 1; Kid mode face detection (as described above)
User Mode 2; as above but back button focusing, so I can do brenizers (studio/adult photography) etc
User Mode 3; OVF orientated mode, AF.C High Continuous Burst, Jpg only (better buffer limits and burst speeds etc), action/sport mode.
User Mode 4; Old glass mode, Manual Focus, CiF, Tv Shift for Green button, ISO 400 etc.
User Mode 5; Landscape/Studio mode, tripod, remote shutter, pixelshift etc.

You can rename your user modes and set up as you please, but can aid in minimising mistakes and comfortability of the shooting experience.

Where I am currently at with photography is developing good flash technique, both in studio and running & gunning (hence this thread). More and more the shots that really impress me always have a strobe or flash involved (often just a single source, sometimes even simply ceiling bounced from the hotshoe of the camera). Photography is all about light, and I think we do (to a certain degree) a disservice to ourselves from relying solely on ambient light to get the shots. I'm not a fan of Tony Northup but I did like what he once said about flash photography. He said something along the lines of before passing judgement on it one should be sufficiently skilled at it to pass judgement. Too many people snub at flash photography but it's because usually they don't know how to do it. I have more respect for a photographer who chooses to use only natural light (or what is available at the time) but whom is also able to use off camera flash skillfully (vs someone who just shoots natural light only because they don't actually know how to use flash properly).
What I am finding on my flash journey is my knowledge about lighting, taking nice portraits and all that stuff is dramatically improving because of studying flash, and it's not about flash per se but rather light. I now (for example) might move someone for a shot if I find myself without a flash, just so they can be positioned better for the shot rather than just take the shot as is. It might seem a little weird, but the subjects always appreciate how good the shot is in the end and actually have no problem with a tiny amount of direction.

Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 03-10-2019, 07:20 PM

Running & Gunning Softbox?
Posted By BruceBanner

Replies: 40
Views: 4,384

Shooting primes helps, the weight of the FA43 or FA77 helps when shooting portraits, I can imagine a 24-70 being a pain (not even going there with the 70-200 LOL!).

I have learned that many users seem to hold their cameras differently. I don't use a battery grip for my K-1 or KP, I love to nestle a curled up pinky underneath where the battery compartment lies, like so;

(PS I no longer use the Custom Bracket the comms even when set to short range I found too erratic and many misfires).

When I grip my K-1 like that however, and shoot in LV mode with Face Tracking (which is actually Eye Detection just presented differently) it's dead simple.

I think there is a certain 'snobbery' to shooting with the OVF, and how if you shoot with the LV screen then you're somehow an amateur and not in the league of professionals. Well... my best results all come from using LV with 90% of the shots using Face Tracking (the other 10% is usually the 'Tracking' mode which people seem to struggle a little with how it's intended to be used).

Images like these are all taken with Face Detection, some wide open, notice how the eyes tend to always be in focus, noses and ears softer etc;

f2.8

(gentlemens face used, I should have stopped down more to capture the girls face sharper, but it's passable)

Not wide open but still a great grab;

Practically wide open with the 77;

Wide open and from a distance;

Wide open and close with the 77;

Maybe you know this already and if so I apologise, it's just recently on the Facebook Pentaxian group a small poll was done for features Pentaxians would like on the upcoming K3iii, and the second highest feature request was 'Eye Focus Detection'... smh :( So many seem to think we don't actually have that area covered but we do, in fact if the wearer is using shades or glasses then Face Detection struggles massively so!

Anyway, yeah... that's how I rock the concept of one had shooting, a light prime, Face Detection mode, a neck strap for allowing you to rest the camera if you do indeed need to make an adjustment etc.

Thanks for the praise, really however it was born from a frustration of being driven to using the hotshoe connection, which I find one of the worst feats of electronic engineering examples to date and is astounding it's still being adopted today. I have seen far too many hotshoes peel away from the camera due to heavy flashes, because also modifiers. It seems like the flash and camera developers figure all is good if nothing sits on the flash, but even then all it takes is a nasty accidental bump on the flash when mounted and rip hotshoe. So I tend to try and use the hotshoe for triggers only, or small light flashes like the AF201FG or AF360FGZII.
So when I realised that the Cactus flashes had a screw hole (and therefore could come up with that docking method pictured above) I felt it was actually a significant win for Cactus. The Godox V860II don't have one, it's does exist but it's on the foot plate which then I feel still kinda opens up the flashes to being balanced a bit weird. I also just hate the rotation method of securing the flash to the hotshoe, I far prefer the lever method as found on the Pentax line of flashes and V6ii (curious the that RF60x's are actually twisties...).

So I like to do as little 'thinking' as possible when working, just toss the stuff in a bag and no matter if I choose to take a light stand or tripod I don't have to overly worry about adapters and heads, it all works etc, that's value I actually really appreciate and am concerned about losing when porting across to Godox.... because....
..
..

.
.
.
..

.
OMG I DIDN'T KNOW ABOUT THE V1! And now that this is in development it might mean I will make that switch properly across and open up to having a full arsenal of options from speedlights that work direct in the cameras hotshoe, ocf speedlights (with the far superior Li-On battery) and of course strobe compatibility with the AD200, 360 etc.

I was thinking I might have to settle for a AD200 and still use a V6ii trigger (and use my second V6ii in Rx mode on the AD200), but I don't think that can work can it? The AD200 doesn't have a hotshoe connection??

Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 03-10-2019, 02:11 PM

Running & Gunning Softbox?
Posted By BruceBanner

Replies: 40
Views: 4,384

Thanks for the excellent feedback and points to consider, I'm really appreciating all of this.

A while back last year I found myself at a crossroads. Godox had announced the Xpro-P trigger and I dithered about whether now was the time to switch from Cactus to the Xpro and a AD200. I decided that I needed more light sources (multiple speedlights) vs one powerful one (and possibly sketchy initial support in terms of full feature firmware issues etc) so I stayed with Cactus as I didn't have the funds to fully port across properly.

There was one other reason as well, might seem silly, but I was put off from the Godox V860's as not having a screw port (to take mounting brackets) or direct on camera support (i.e. a lack of a V860IIP). There is only one direct on camera support for Pentax from Godox which is the underpowered and generally not well received TT350P. It's now March 2019 and I was hoping by now a V860IIP might have been announced or something else, something new that Godox have made that support Pentax but sadly no (and is frustrating seeing as they have supported Fuji and Olympus).

Anyway, I shall show you some of the reasons I appreciate the screw hole that exists on the Cactus RF60x and some of the running and gunning rigs I've come up with thus far;

Stage 1; Lacrosse anyone?

When not indoors ceiling bouncing I have come up with this rig that seems to work pretty well. The handle is comfy and allows for further reach/stretch for ocf use.

Stage 2; Lacrosse with added diffusion

This seems to be similar to the Lastolite discontinued thingy you mentioned previously. Hard to see from the picture but I am using the screw hole on the side of the speedlite to manage this attachment, and a clearer picture below shows the bits and pieces used. Of course I am trigger this flash with the V6ii.

Attachments;

Manfrotto plates are used to quickly bind attachments together.

Quick Lightstand Option;

Turning the speedlight on it's side and I can quickly dock it into a lightstand.

The Tripod Mount Solution;

And if no lightstand exists and instead you need to use a tripod then I can easily work around that issue. The handle is really useful for help with aiming and positioning :)

Double Speedlight Option;

Removing the initial handle allows for me to dock a second RF60x unit, and I used this set up inside my Godox 120cm Octagon box for the shots of my daughter bouncing on the trampoline.

I am now really curious about using the large Parabolic Reflector Umbrella using two Cactus RF60x's... or 1xRF60x and 1xAF360FGZII (which has a modelling light, and set to being optically triggered thus leaving a spare RF60x for fill). I'm mostly intrigued by the apparent additional efficiency of that umbrella, and how I need as much efficiency as possibly because I am still on speedlight use.

I may visit this store later this week and pick one of these up. I don't think it will go to waste... 60 inch 150cm Parabolic Umbrella for Studio Photography Reflective Large

I also aim to set up 'Davo' (my mannequin) outdoors again some evening and do some thorough tests with everything tripodded and fixed so that we can compare the quality of light and distance issues that arise from different diffusion applied etc. I need to do that for myself but hopefully someone else reading this will find that info helpful.

Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 03-09-2019, 04:25 PM

Running & Gunning Softbox?
Posted By BruceBanner

Replies: 40
Views: 4,384

Thanks clackers.

It strikes me that there must be a difference in light spread from say using these two items.

What I used (including not using diffuser or grid);

What I could purchase and try;

Size differences aside, the one I have closes in more, the other one (that seems dedicated to just the bounce with no diffuser material) looks like it would fan the spread of light our more and not be so directional? However I do understand that doing that I run the risk of losing power if the light spreads in all directions more than a kinda concentrated beam...

I'm starting to run out of speedlights clackers! ahaha, I did think about a rim flash and might try that later today, but the issue is getting enough bare speedlight flash power onto the subject without the rim light in the shot itself. I might put my AF360FGZII in the umbrella with a RF60x and then use the other RF60x for the rim light (that's all I have, 2xRF60x's and 1x360II).

Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 03-09-2019, 02:59 PM

Running & Gunning Softbox?
Posted By BruceBanner

Replies: 40
Views: 4,384

Your umbrella pics prompted me to try to see if I could do something similar with my Godox 120cm Octagon Umbrella Softbox; https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/202478858753
I of course didn't put the diffuser in or grid, just placed two Cactus RF60x's at 1/1 power in the box and got these images;

I'm quite pleased from the results, one issue I had however is I felt the direction of light spread would be quite narrow at times (likely due to the near proximity), I'm wondering if I I should adjust the zoom at all to something different? Should I go for max zoom or a wider spread? Or maybe even have one max zoom and the other wide?
And also, do you think a different umbrella would be better than the one I used? I mean I think you can get umbrellas that are meant for this kind of work and they're not 'softbox' ones but meant for only bouncing, are they angled better, more reflective?

Thanks again!

Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 03-07-2019, 01:18 PM

Running & Gunning Softbox?
Posted By BruceBanner

Replies: 40
Views: 4,384

Excellent post, thanks for that, very informative.

Yep the AD200 is killer for this kinda situation and a reason it's so popular with wedding photographers to do some garden and location shooting with the couple on the day. Alas I will revisit my options for when that day arrives but for now it will have to be speedlight only solutions.

I had a bit of a breakthrough the past few days with some design tests. Continuing on with the Magbounce + Cactus RF60x design, I included a rig that involved adding a small diffuser umbrella into the mix. It's early days but thus far I am really pleased with the results. Hopefully over the weekend I can get some real life examples of the kind of soft light it's managing. The rig itself I am pretty chuffed with, it has a handle and everything :D but what's really nice about it is the ease of also docking it onto a light stand or tripod quickly.

I'll have to look into the parabolic umbrella solution too, I just figured for speedlight use it's losing too much power to bounce the flash backwards outside in HSS conditions, but hey the magbounce seems to be doing ok so maybe it'll work. I just kinda change lenses, FA43 for when I need to be closer (handheld speedlight rig), and the FA77 and rig on a lightstand and position closer to the subject and then I can stand further back for the snaps.

Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 03-03-2019, 09:27 PM

Running & Gunning Softbox?
Posted By BruceBanner

Replies: 40
Views: 4,384

My better half and I had the morning off so we had a little bushwalk. Whilst I did landscape photography (which I take a billion years to complete the shot) she reads a book :D
As we headed into the gorge I saw an opportunity to further test the MagBounce against the harsh bright sunny Aussie skies. I have to say I was really chuffed with the results and am left wondering if a different portable rig is really going to yield dramatically better results (considering the magbounce is an extremely useful and low footprint gadget).

Settings:
Av mode, ISO 100, f2.5 and ambient light tamed to -1EV. I used the FA43 in Live View Face Detection mode and handheld the Cactus RF60x set at Manual power 1/4 at arms length camera left.

Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 03-01-2019, 09:38 PM

Running & Gunning Softbox?
Posted By BruceBanner

Replies: 40
Views: 4,384

That made me laugh :lol: :D

--------------

So here are the pictures I took in my garden with my trusty assistance 'Davo' to help me out. My purpose of this outing was to see the difference between the Magbounce vs Roundflash vs No Flash etc. I didn't really do any bare flash shots as I kinda know what to expect from those kinda shots already. Flash provided from v6ii and one single RF60x
It was dusk and I deliberately chose some challenging lighting conditions. If you pay attention to the backdrop you will see there are strong shadows being cast, big contrast between bright and dark spots. Davo was of course in the shade. Shots taken RAW but used in camera Jpg conversion, seen absolutely no adjustments, just Jpg exports.

Shots 5591-5592 and 5593-5594 were tripoded (both cam and flashes), with the flashes about 2.5-3m away from subject, position camera left.

Shots 5596-5597 and 5603-5604 were handheld, camera right hand, Cactus RF60x left hand, Live View Face Detection mode.

The shots;

5591-5592

5593-5994

5596-5597

5603-5604

My take away message was;

1) 200mm zoom or 80mm, it didn't seem to make a difference through the Magbounce or Roundflash, results looked the same.
2) Angling the Magbounce correctly gave more power and light to the subject than the Roundflash at the equivalent distance.
3) There didn't seem to be much of a difference between using 1/1 power with the magbounce vs P-ttl +5.0, which is interesting. It might be that the extra +3.0 EV steps that I get with the Cactus RF60x/V6ii vs/over the hotshoe AF360FGZII/540II (which only gives +2.0 in P-TTL mode) actually matters. It turns the P-TTL from being biased towards being a fill light to actually being a key light?
4) Overall the Magbounce was producing not too bad shadows on the subject. If you inspect the model's face the nose shadows in particular are softer than what bare flash gives (a straight edged shadow). Not bad for something that is uber slick and easy to bring/stow away.

I want to do some further testing, I might even consider buying a second Magbounce (I already have a second maggrip), if I could build some kind of rig that involves a nice handle, something that allows for two RF60x's to be attached to it, then have two Magbounces for more power, the results might be even better!

Here's another SOOC, this time taken later at the end of the session, you can see now on my lawn that the sun is well and truly going down, the lawn no longer showing the strong contrasting light. I could now ease up on the -2ev and I think this was taken Av P-TTL -0.7 ev, Magbounce. The shadow on the nose is still kinda harsh but not too bad, and possibly overdid the power here a little bit which probably contributes to that;

Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 02-28-2019, 03:34 AM

Running & Gunning Softbox?
Posted By BruceBanner

Replies: 40
Views: 4,384

I understand now. cool.

Might just do that! Thanks!

Hmm... I hadnt heard of the Rogue Flashbender, but it made me think of my Magbounce so I spend some time this evening testing it out properly. It seems I have overlooked some of it's functionality, it's more useful than the sphere (which isn't hard, the sphere is quite gimmicky).
In the past I've used the Magbounce indoors only really, and when I tried it outside I was angled wrong and not a lot of light hitting the subject. Today I did a much better job and I think replicated some results similar to what a small softbox or perhaps a Flashbender could manage.
I took a series of shots and recorded which image/file name had what attached, I'll post the results later on this weekend when I have some time to properly sort them. I think tho I'm sorted, just use Magbounce :)
I'll be interested to hear on some of your feed back from the images I upload in due course, see if you think it can be much improved or pretty decent for what is considered a pretty sleek and discreet set up.

Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 02-26-2019, 12:46 PM

Running & Gunning Softbox?
Posted By BruceBanner

Replies: 40
Views: 4,384

Thanks, I'll try that and test the results (think I have a couple of diffuser umbrellas kicking about that I have never really tried utilising like this).

Not sure I follow your setup, any pics to illustrate? :)

That grip style looks ideal actually! Can you get ones that would allow for two speedlights to be stuffed through the hole?

Yeah, that's been my experience when trying with a 120cm reflective umbrella octagon softbox. I mean it works in lower light (dusk) and if the setup is close to subject, but it's pretty much studio hassle now and not what I want to be doing. I think it has the be shoot through, if possible catering for double speedlights....

Australia is a bit more predictable. If it's a still day in the morning, it's still all day, when it's windy its tornado! But having spent half my life in the UK I fully understand your issues :lol:

Well that's where I'm at right now... go bare, or try for something that is a little more flattering. I've posted this question elsewhere and a lot of the suggestions are to move to godox and ad200's. That's cool advice an' all but this guy needs to stay with Cactus for a few more months/year, I just can't afford a platform switch and also I'm wanting to explore what is possible in terms of pushing the envelope of traditional speedlights etc.

I think you've seen my examples in my other thread where I did just go bare flash (but erring more towards actual flash shots than just fill, which I think you're starting to understand is 'more my thang') :lol: :D

So yeah, just wondering if I can handhold the flash, or put on a light tripod with a softbox and give a softer light whilst 'punching the subject out' of the scene more than just fill light etc. Simply looking for something other than the roundflash to do some on location outdoor flash work :)

Nice example shots by the way ;)

I need pics, I'm not sure I follow your set up :S

Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 02-26-2019, 04:34 AM

Running & Gunning Softbox?
Posted By BruceBanner

Replies: 40
Views: 4,384

So now that I seem to feel as though my Roundflash (with my AF360FGZII) has some 'outdoor 2-3m back from subject' limitations due to it's effectiveness, I am now considering looking for something else to use for outdoor HSS running and gunning.

My current situation is limiting because;

Roundflash Softbox is designed to be fitted around the lens and not perhaps overly effective off camera?

The only hotshoe flash I have is the AF360FGZII which is perhaps underpowered for HSS work

However even the AF540FGZII is perhaps limited as well due to the fact that HSS only works in P-TTL mode with these flashes

So my thought process was to see if I could hold my camera in one hand, V6ii trigger on top, trigger a RF60x being held by my other hand and a suitable softbox that might work for that RF60x unit (I actually have two RF60x's... so if the softbox could actually accommodate two then I might get more power that way also...).

The only softboxes I have are large 120cm Octagon type things, too large to carry for running and gunning stuff. I may even go to the lengths of using a tripod, keep the legs together and use like a mono pod for extra distance of flash from camera, or spread the legs of the tripod and stand the flash up for the shot for a second or two etc. The idea is the flash is in 1/1 power mode always, I chimp and adjust my distance more than actually mess with settings, I just want it to be cable of doing HSS (which Cactus RF60x's can do in 1/1 power mode) and therefore soften the light and reduce it's harshness factor (as good as we can for HSS circumstances that is).

So yeah, basically wondering what kinda suitable small portable softboxes might be useful, ones that are not intended to be on camera (as those are pretty poor).

Cheers!

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