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Forum: Pentax K-5 04-22-2011, 01:20 PM  
Can a K-5 & DA* lens take a dip in water?
Posted By bjsmith
Replies: 51
Views: 8,161
The physics of the two are completely different.

Pouring water over a K10D, K20D, K-7 or K-5 will merely leverage surface forces or, in the case of directly above a seal or gasket, the force of gravity, to push water into the camera. The angles are acute and limited, along with the force.

Submersing something in water puts far more force, and from all angles, from the water on water itself. That's why things are rated for depth, because of the force. A completely different design is required, entirely. The lens would definitely take on water, and the body very likely as well, just from several seconds.

And yes, I have an engineering degree (basic fluid dynamics, even elementary, 2nd year statics explains much of the logic), but this should also be high school level physics knowledge (for those who paid attention). ;)
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 04-06-2011, 12:24 PM  
DA* 50-135 vs (DFA 100 WR + FA 50 f1.4)
Posted By bjsmith
Replies: 11
Views: 4,155
I sold my DA* 50-135 f/2.8 after buying the DA* 200 f2/.8. Love the DA* 200 f/2.8 and only used the 50-135 about four (4) times over a year. I also have the DA 55-300 f/4-5.8, which is really a no-brainer today for a non-fast telezoom without shallow DoF.

I bought the D-FA 100 f/2.8 Macro WR and I can say it is very sweet as a general tele. It's neither SDM nor fast at AF, but as a true 1:1 Macro, MF is definitely standard operating procedure, especially in the bright pentaprism and full mag as in the K-7 or K-5. I also have the FA 50 f/1.4, largely because I bought it while it was still only US$199, but I rarely use it. I don't shoot much portrait.

I used to use my DA 16-50 f/2.8 as my general walkabout, but it was dropped (with the K20D attached, the K20D survived, the lens didn't) and is no longer used. I've switched to the DA 18-135 f/3.5-5.6 WR as my general walkabout, and I'm surprised how sharp it is, as long as you don't need speed and shallow DoF.

Another option might be to look at an used FA 28-105 f/3.2-4.5. Haven't tried it on the newer K-7 or K-5 bodies though, so I don't know what kind of IQ you'll get.
Forum: Pentax K-5 04-01-2011, 01:18 AM  
Totally rubbish INOV8 batteries
Posted By bjsmith
Replies: 30
Views: 8,613
Okay ... I'll do this only once ... hope it's worth it and doesn't fall on deaf ears ...

But "what is capacity?!"

I've had this discussion over and over. I've yet to find another, fellow Electrical Engineer (EE) who disagrees with me, especially those with more experience in power systems (most often they entirely agree with me), whereas I have more exposure to microelectronics and semiconductor (and why variance in potential can kill microelectronics far quicker than the "extra pep" in the lens motors).

- "Charge" is just the alleged "Current-time" based on a load
- Many vendors quote "Charge" at a very minimal, not nominal, load -- like 100mA (whereas 1A+ is nominal)
- "Current" (real-time) is a function of not charge, but the remaining potential in the source for the load it was designed for
- As potential drops to meet "current" (real-time), you will lose functionality at a specific voltage cut-off, and will drop absolutely if the load is in excess of the design
- Pentax branded and certified batteries are designed for a specific potential-current over a specific current-time
- Generic batteries are not designed or certified for such, even when they come out of the same fab
- There is no "generic standard" for Li-Ion for all batteries -- e.g., no one supports/certifies "generic" Rechargeable CR-V3 batteries for a reason

This is the area of Lithium Ion (Li-Ion). Li-Ion is completely different than Nickel batteries, such as NiCD and NiMH. Li-Ion has regulated cells, regulation that is active enough to drain the battery. NiCD and NiMH just "leak" potential, but do not require the same cell-level regulation.

Not exactly.

What it means is two things:
1) Without a nominal load drawing current, the INOV8 was designed for a different potential
2) With a nominal K7/K5 load drawing current, the INOV8 is completely inadequate for the design

Potential is the issue. One can have a "smaller battery" and still be adequate. The overall "charge" (current-time) people speak of is not exactly.

What is exacting is how the real-time, actual potential-current output of the battery lasts over its total potential. The problem with so many "generic" batteries is that they are not designed for the end unit. There is a specific, real-time potential-current requirement over the potential of the battery, and when you don't design for such an end-unit, you get reduced longevity. This is still even the cause though the "charge" might actually be the same, using a minimal load, but not for the nominal charge of the unit.

I cannot stress enough there is a reason why no end-unit device supports "generic" Rechargeable CR-V3 batteries. Everyone designs and certifies a specific design. This is not Nickel battery technology at all. It's not non-rechargeable Lithium technology either (e.g., 3V LiMg in CR-V3 or 1.5V LiFe in Energizer Lithium). Lithium is an interesting beat, and Lithium Ion requires extensive microelectronics regulation and other details.

The camera needs a specific real-time voltage-current (power). Voltage drops as a result of inadequate current, so current remains the same for the reduced, overall power.

It's bad enough if the battery does not even put out the potential required with no load. But with load, nominal load typical in a dSLR (1A+) and not just a common, minimal load that many use to rate "charge" (typically 100mA), the battery can still have a "lot of charge left," but be utterly useless because it can't provide enough current and, therefore, voltage that the load needs and constantly hit the devices cut-off voltage (so there is not a brown out).

I regularly used to take my alleged "dead" NiMH batteries out of my K100D and put them in reduced load (100-250mA) electronics and they'd work for another 4-10 hours. They literally had 1Ah (1000mAh) "left" in them. They just couldn't produce the required, real-time potential-current required for the K100D any more.

Yes, to recharge various capacitance that are utilized in motors and other electronics, as well as select microelectronics. The CCD and shutter are of interest, beyond just the motors, although the motors are usually designed around the nominal input of the microelectronics, which are far more exacting.

I used to have this discussion with people who used "generic" Rechargeable CR-V3 batteries in their *ist-D, K100D, K200D, etc... where they'd basically talk about how much "pep" they had in their motors, and I'd try to get them to understand they are taunting their voltage regulators. Most everyone either reports infrequent to common "lock ups" (that "only" require a power toggle -- ummm, there's a reason for that, it's typically the voltage regulator doing its job) to sometimes lost shots or other issues to, and most commonly, far less shots than expected -- usually because the Li-Ion potential has been reduced by another load, and with it, overall, real-time current at the reduced, overall potential. I.e., not worth it in my book.

Under the nominal load of the actual end-device, correct.

Which doesn't mean the INOV8 doesn't actually have its "claimed" overall "charge," it may very well be that it does.

It just means that under the actual, "nominal load" of the K7/K5, the INOV8 is unable to deliver the real-time potential-current over the life of the overall charge of the battery. It wasn't designed for the load, let alone it seems not the non-load potential in the first place.

Doesn't mean "fakes." It just means they were not designed to go in a K7/K5. With a different, real-time potential-current load, they may last longer.

It's the same reason why you see NiMH AA batteries with higher "charge" than LiFe AA batteries. Beyond the fact that the former are nominally 1.2V and the latter 1.5V, it's the fact that LiFe is able to deliver (according to Energizer) up to 2.6A nominal (let alone at 1.5V) than NiMH, which varies greatly. Some NiMH batteries can't even do 0.5A, while others easily do 1A+ as long as the battery has at least half its potential left (and then drops under). That's why for high current microelectronics, let alone those with motors, LiFe is preferred over NiMH.

At the same time, for a battery grip, if I put twelve (12) 1.2V NiMH batteries in two (2) series of six (6), I can get not only 7.2V nominal, but the two (2), parallel series circuits add together and I can get easily 2A+ for at least half their charge (series compounds potential, parallel compounds current).

Furthermore, if potential is the sole reason why batteries last "longer," then how come 1.2V NiMH AA batteries last longer than 1.5V Alkalines? Again, real-time current, as Alkalines often have trouble with more than 0.1A (let alone 0.5A), while NiMH is designed for 0.5A+.

Good. I'll let you do an experiment where you reverse polarity with Nickel and Lithium-based compounds. You'll do the nickel first for a reason, because you will go to the hospital after you do the Lithium compound.

Nickel melts in the worst case, and is quite tolerant of various transients. Lithium cells COMBUST under polarity reversal, including varies transients that can and do occur. There is a reason why most Li-Ion designs have at least three (3) terminals, if not four (4). There are many transients and other issues with Lithium, especially changing from charge to discharge. That's one reason right there why the non-standard, "generic" Rechargable CR-V3s are not used, because CR-V3 only defines discharge (not charge), and there are non-standard designs for charging.

Lithium requires additional, cell-level regulation, in addition to the overall battery pack. Lithium Ion cells have active microelectronics that drain the battery when it's in non-use, unlike non-rechargeable Lithium compounds (again, LiMg for CR-V3, LiFe for Energizer Lithium) which "hold their charge" for decades. Lithium actually holds charges for decades, but the rechargeable Ion designs do not because of those active, regulatory circuits. Eventually individual cells fail over time, enough to a point the overall real-time current is inadequate. That's why Li-Ion batteries are only good for about 1-2 years of continual use and charging (500+).

Again, Nickel and Lithium are completely different, one should never compare them.

Lithium is a high capacitance, but very fickle compound. Designs require a different potential for charging than discharging, and it has a very narrow potential band for both. This is partially due to the microelectronics that regulate its cells, as microelectronics often have a narrow band as well. Going too high over-volts circuits and, in the worst case, just makes a cell unusable. Going to far can cause the Lithium cell to combust, although the microelectronics is specifically designed to render it unusable instead. Going to low, the cell is destroyed -- either by the cut-off of the microelectronics or the common case of sub-3V being deadly to the Lithium compound itself.

SIDE NOTE: This is also why the "reduced voltage, generic" Rechargeable CR-V3 is almost self-defeating. CR-V3 is 3V nominal under load, but Li-Ion is nominally 3.7V. Trying to reduce it down to 3.3V or under brings it close to its "death voltage," so the microelectronics cut-off much sooner. It's also why the batteries tend to die quicker too, because the cut-off is not only so low, but when you store a Li-Ion cell at or below its 3V base, it tends to destroy the cells after a few months. Remember, the regulatory microelectronics are still draining it too, during storage. ;)

The four most common reason for combustion at refilling stations are:

1. Mechanical (overwhelmingly, typically 1 sigma or at least 2/3rds to 80%, failures of the pumps, agitation, spark, etc..)
2. Exposed flames (i.e., mainly smokers, not as high as you would expect, but still significant)
3. Electro-static (almost as much as smokers, people not grounding themselves, opening doors while filling, etc...)
4. Electro-magnetic (very low, but still as much as 1%)

Yes, it's rare that a 700MHz - 2.1GHz signal would cause any type of EMF and resulting EMI. However, it's still possible. It's more of an issue at a refueling station than on an airplane, because you do have vapors that are openly exposed to an endless supply of oxygen (unlike a self-sealing fuel tank, which is not even close to the passenger). But the risk is very low.

The higher risk of cell phone usage is the same as anywhere else, people not paying attention and preventing others from communicating -- re-enter "mechanical" above, along with "electro-static" and other things. That's why on an airplane (at least here in the US) you're not allowed to use portable electronics below 10,000 feet. Why? Because that's the most common time a flight attendant will need to get your attention, for emergency or other situations. In-flight entertainment systems are allowed because their audio-video can be interrupted by flight personnel (let alone they immediately have your attention when they do ;) ).

Of course you can! You can do all sorts of things too!

But is the "generic" resulted designed specifically for the real-time potential-current load of the K7/K5?! No. What will result?

As explained above. Reduced envelope where the load will get what it expects before voltage cut-off, a far greater frequency of variances from design, etc...

Again, that's not the whole story. It's not just about "didn't pass QA," many do.

It's about using a battery pack that was not designed for the envelope of the end-design. If it was just about an output voltage, then I can and should go off and make a set of cheap "adapters" that give 3.6-3.7V, 7.2-7.4V, 10.8-11.1V and 14.4-14.8V outputs with "generic," Rechargeable CR-V3 batteries.

And let me explain his statements further ... ;)
In fact, completely draining Li-Ion can be a bad thing!

NiCD is notorious for "memory." NiMH is far better, but doesn't typically have the real-time current output of NiCD (2.5A+). NiCD is far better with depletion, as the potential is more consistent. I.e., when you recharge Nickel technologies, the potential (voltage) is actually how it detects if it is full or not. The "memory" issues arise when NiMH or, far more commonly, NiCD actually go to a "trickle" in potential, and the charger believes it is full, when it is actually not. Hence why one wants to drain NiMH and, almost always, NiCD almost completely, before charging.

Lithium Ion rechargeable designs, especially polymer (which is more staple, at a cost of longevity, although that is improvement), prefer to have a mid-charge when stored. The greater the capacitance in Li-Ion, the faster it degrades. At the same time, you don't want to deplete a Li-Ion and then store it, as the active, regulatory microelectronics still needs power. You don't want the cells dropping much below 3V potential

Care'n feeding of Li-Ion include the following:

- Keep your Li-Ion "topped off" when you use it or plan to use it -- do not store your Li-Ion batteries full charged for any mid-to-long-term duration, use them (say every week or two)

A week before a trip is a great idea. Feel free to top them off while on the trip as well. Unlike Nickel, there are no issues with Lithium being recharged from any, prior level of potential.

- When you plan on storing your Li-Ion, use them for about 60-80% of their charge -- i.e., just before, if you can estimate (e.g., number of shots), or just as it begins to drop in your device's indicator (nearing cut-off voltage of device, but still well above 3V)

It's safe to shoot and then leave your batteries uncharged for a month or two, as long as you yank them before they are fully depleted. On my K5, I yank them just before (estimate) or just as they hit the 2/3rds indicator, which means potential has dropped below best, nominal output (but still well above cut-off).

- Don't leave your Li-Ion battery in your device while it's plugged in as the norm -- i.e., having a Li-Ion battery that is constantly fully charged, whether it's in use or not, will reduce its life (yes, this is the same in the case of notebook computers)

If you're Li-Ion is constantly at max potential, it will degrade the fastest, regardless of whether it is used or not. That's why you don't want to just leave your power plugged into your camera with a battery any more than a notebook. I often yank my notebook's Li-Ion battery when at home, especially after a trip where it is half-depleted, and only put it back in before I travel.

Of course, in all cases, "planning" is not an exact science. When in doubt, weight the cost of a few months or a year reduced battery longevity to the fact of not having enough battery life. ;)

By "power" you mean overall charge. "Power" is directly aking to real-time potential-current, and not "current-time" of the overall charge (and power-time when you factor in potential).

At the same time, you can still have a battery that is designed and can deliver a specific, real-time potential-charge over its life at a smaller, overall "charge rating" than a battery that wasn't designed for it.

That's what most people don't realize. They can't understand how a "smaller" battery from the OEM seemingly works "better" and lasts "longer" than a "larger" or "external" battery that has far more cells and "higher" rated "charge."

Again, real-time potential-current (real-time "power") has nothing to do with the overall, current-time (as corresponding power-time) that a battery is allegedly "rated" for. The "rating" can and is often done under a minimal load (like 100mA) instead of an actual, end-device load. The actual, end-device load varies -- except when designed for a specific unit.

Again, regarding "charge," why do Energizer Lithium batteries last longer, or work at all, compared to NiMH batteries, even when the latter does work? Current! (Energizer rates its Lithiums at 2.6A real-time current) And it's not just "potential," because even 1.5V Alkalines do not last, if they work at all, compared to 1.2V NiMH batteries for most devices, including smaller, compact cameras.

Li-Ion, under continual use, will only last 1-2 years. Under infrequent use, even without proper care'n feeding, Li-Ion can last 3-5 years. For photographers, this should be typical, possibly 5+ years with proper care'n feeding.

Remember, rechargeable 3.7V Li-Ion cells != 3V LiMg (CR-V3) or 1.5V LiFe (Energizer Lithium). The latter will last for decades on the shelf, and will provide the same current until they are nearly depleted, and their longevity doesn't vary based on how often or little you use them. Li-Ion is completely different and it does matter how you charge and use them.

Like a typical notebook battery as well.

I hope my taking the time to make all my comments above will be seen as the same.
Forum: Pentax K-5 03-28-2011, 08:45 AM  
Totally rubbish INOV8 batteries
Posted By bjsmith
Replies: 30
Views: 8,613
Grips are a different story. Most grips use AA batteries in an arrangement that ensures nominal current and overall power. Six (6) or Twelve (12) NiMH AA batteries will provide either one or two, respectively, parallel lines of 7.2V nominal output in a grip.
Forum: Pentax K-5 03-28-2011, 08:44 AM  
Totally rubbish INOV8 batteries
Posted By bjsmith
Replies: 30
Views: 8,613
For a $1,500 body with $300-1,000 lenses attached, let alone my eye within an inch or two of the battery compartment, I really find it difficult to buy anything but the Pentax designed, tested and certified D-Li 90 batteries.

I bought two (2) more for $36/each at Amazon to add to the battery that came with my K5 Silver Limited. In AF.C mode over almost a full day I shot over 2,300 shots before it went to 2/3rds power. The next battery shot over 2,400 shots well into the 2nd day, before it went to 2/3rds power. Understand I was in AF.C the whole time, and easily had it beep over 10,000 times (if not more) autofocusing.

Kinda hard to get me to save $10-20 on a battery. It's one thing if these were Nickel-Ion batteries, which are fairly basic with no regulation per cell. But Lithium-Ion is another beast entirely, and the number of fabs that try to make "generic" designs that work across many different products are not quite the same.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-22-2011, 08:34 AM  
DA 55-300 Max Aperture?
Posted By bjsmith
Replies: 3
Views: 2,196
That sounds about right. I believe I've seen f/4.5 at 205mm as well. I usually end up shoot with the EXIF showing 190mm though.
Forum: Pentax K-5 03-22-2011, 08:28 AM  
K-5 Silver Pre-Order Is Shipping From Adorama
Posted By bjsmith
Replies: 70
Views: 14,965
Mine was flawless as well, and I loaded 1.03 before doing anything else other than verifying no spots.

After three (3) days at Sebring, 6500 shots, the body and lenses were well dusted with dirt and sand. I used only my DA* 200 f/2.8 and DA 18-135 f/3.5-5.6 WR and the sensor is still clean from what I can tell.

God I love dust/weather sealing. ;)

Nope, but this weekend I plan on creating a 2nd signature pic entitled, "Is your system sealed?" sporting my K-5 Silver Limited, DA* 200 f/2.8, D-FA 100 f/2.8 WR and DA 18-135 f/3.5-5.6 lenses.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-22-2011, 07:23 AM  
DA 55-300 Max Aperture?
Posted By bjsmith
Replies: 3
Views: 2,196
In my experience in the tele, it's:
- f/5.6 at 260mm
- f/4.5 at 190mm (~200mm?)

This makes it much better than the DA 50-200 f/4-5.6 (ignoring the far better optical in the DA 55-300 f/4-5.6 as well), which doesn't hit f/4.5 until 135mm.
Forum: Pentax K-5 03-16-2011, 07:55 AM  
Those with Pentax Store K-5 Silver Pre-Orders getting backorder messages?
Posted By bjsmith
Replies: 31
Views: 7,358
Now home in Florida and boy am I impressed with the build quality! Wow! Just every little thing done very, very well coming from even my K20D.

I haven't checked the firmware because the batteries that shipped with the unit, as well as the additional two are drained. Charging them now.

I'm going to take some shots with the DA 18-135 WR later when one battery is charged. I want to check for sensor stains as well as compare the quality of the DA 18-135 WR versus the DA 16-45 (no longer have my DA* 16-50 f/2.8 due to an "accident" last year).

I'll definitely be shooting at Sebring tomorrow through Saturday, and I'll try to upload pics every night, maybe a video or two.
Forum: Pentax K-5 03-15-2011, 05:22 PM  
K-5 Silver Pre-Order Is Shipping From Adorama
Posted By bjsmith
Replies: 70
Views: 14,965
Mine just arrived in the mail today. Unfortunately I'm five (5) states away. I'm flying tomorrow morning and will have time to play before Sebring on Thursday (through Saturday). I'll have three (3) full days of experimentation.
Forum: Pentax K-5 03-14-2011, 07:36 PM  
K-5 Silver Pre-Order Is Shipping From Adorama
Posted By bjsmith
Replies: 70
Views: 14,965
I have a feeling they will sell out quickly. No reason to discount them.
Forum: Pentax K-5 03-14-2011, 06:59 PM  
AC adapter for the K-5
Posted By bjsmith
Replies: 7
Views: 4,037
That doesn't sound right.

I thought the K10D and K20D use the same, and the K-7 and K-5 use the same?
Forum: Pentax K-5 03-14-2011, 06:33 PM  
Love it, but which lens
Posted By bjsmith
Replies: 4
Views: 2,161
I bought the DA* 16-50 f/2.8 with my K20D for the rebate. But my DA* 16-50 f/2.8 was destroyed in "sling fling" (by someone who didn't realize what a slingbag is -- or rather -- is not). The K20D survived (even though plastic was "shot back into" the mirror/sensor/pentaprism).

I stayed in a holding pattern, since I have the DA 16-45 f/4 as a backup. The f/4 isn't as fast, or as sharp, and it's not WR for that matter. But it's fine for common 16mm (24mm) wide usage. I really love those few extra mm in focal. I also have the DA 10-17 Fisheye.

But I finally just ordered the DA 18-135 WR as my walkabout lens since many people love the IQ and it is WR. It's definitely got more range at the expense of wide. I'll find out how good it is soon enough at Sebring with my new K5 Silver.

Unfortunately there's no rain forecast for the race. Darn. I had fun at Lime Rock last year in about 7 hours of rain with the K20D + DA* 16-50 f/2.8 and DA* 200 f/2.8. ;)
Forum: Pentax K-5 03-14-2011, 06:27 PM  
do you get stuck in a rut..
Posted By bjsmith
Replies: 16
Views: 3,827
I use TAv when I'm shooting action, and even more so when I'm going to shoot for hours and the lighting is going to change (sun rising or setting). I love it on my K20D and it's the reason I went to a K5D (should have my Silver by Wednesday at the latest).
Forum: Pentax K-5 03-14-2011, 06:24 PM  
K-5 Silver Pre-Order Is Shipping From Adorama
Posted By bjsmith
Replies: 70
Views: 14,965
Interesting. A colleague of mine here at work talks up the Micro 4/3rds, and prefers EVIL. Any reasons you don't like it?

But after seeing the kind of quality I've shot with my K20D + DA* 200 f/2.8, he's getting increasingly interested, because Pentax bodies and APS-C sized lenses are hardly any bigger. If Pentax ever introduces an EVIL, I might try to talk him into switching.
Forum: Pentax K-5 03-14-2011, 06:15 PM  
K-5 Silver Pre-Order Is Shipping From Adorama
Posted By bjsmith
Replies: 70
Views: 14,965
Ace Photo is great. I've used them prior.

If you ever need to try out Pentax equipment in the greater DC-MD-VA area, they are the place to go. They are often not much more than mail order in my experience, and carry most of Pentax's line. They usually have to hit their stockroom for it, but they have always had something I needed when I've stopped by.

When I picked up the DA* 200 f/2.8 in mid-2009, they were shocked and commented how they've never seen such a short 200mm at f/2.8. They let me try it on including going outside and shooting. I guess their staff doesn't sell as much Pentax as other items, but they've always been complementary towards the equipment when they've sold to myself.
Forum: Pentax K-5 03-14-2011, 06:11 PM  
K-5 and PK_Tether, it works!
Posted By bjsmith
Replies: 21
Views: 7,585
It's .NET 3.5, so depending on what libraries and controls are being utilized, it may run under recent Mono builds under Linux, MacOS X and others. But I have a feeling it's using some Win32-only library/control, and it is tied to a specific Windows releases as a result.

Fedora 15 is possibly coming with the Mono 4.0 pre-release, so I might try building the software and seeing what is required for support. If it's just common USB controls, and possibly some generic video overlay, it might just work with a few changes. I mean, if it works on all Windows versions, then it's not using any NT6-only (Vista/7-only) video overlay. So Mono 4 likely has the equivalent SDL/V4L (Simple DirectMedia Layer / Video4Linux) calls to support such.
Forum: Pentax K-5 03-11-2011, 11:41 AM  
Those with Pentax Store K-5 Silver Pre-Orders getting backorder messages?
Posted By bjsmith
Replies: 31
Views: 7,358
It shipped! It shipped! Whoo hoo! Not confirmed yet as the tracking number isn't available at UPS yet, but I do indeed have a number!

Seems they fulfilled my pre-order from early February, right as they said they would. Whomever they are using for logistics did their job, and were fairly responsive on questions (within 36 hours or so). They ended up getting stock sooner than they had confirmed just recently (they said they expected stock around 3/15).

Now I'm curious if that "5 in stock" confirmation means those who didn't under until yesterday were able to get one. Anyone order just yesterday and are now seeing their "ships in 1 business day" met? Just curious.

In any case, glad I ordered when I did and got the original price. Should have it for Sebring!
Forum: Pentax K-5 03-11-2011, 09:53 AM  
Those with Pentax Store K-5 Silver Pre-Orders getting backorder messages?
Posted By bjsmith
Replies: 31
Views: 7,358
If you subscribed to be notified (via e-mail) when stock was available, they sent an e-mail yesterday if you were. So I received an e-mail regarding stock.

BTW, they are out-of-stock again as of early this morning:
- PentaxWebstore K-5 Limited Silver Kit (PA/PCI)

However, I did not receive an e-mail regarding my order status being "In the Warehouse." And my order is still saying "In the Warehouse." I assume I'll receive an e-mail when it ships.
Forum: Pentax K-5 03-10-2011, 08:33 PM  
Those with Pentax Store K-5 Silver Pre-Orders getting backorder messages?
Posted By bjsmith
Replies: 31
Views: 7,358
The question is ... 5 on-hand for existing pre-orders? Or 5 more beyond those? Mine's still saying "in warehouse." I hope they send by tomorrow or Monday at the latest. I mean, it says "In stock, ships in 1 business day" for new buyers.

If they are still backordered due to pre-orders, they should let us know when we can expect ours, at least a rough estimate by next week. In any case, I already ordered my WR 18-135 and a pair of D-Li90 batteries from Amazon. Here's hoping I have the body for Sebring too!!! ;)

Only 5 more days still the fun starts!

In the US, $1,699 for the Silver Limited Kit from the Pentax Store. Those of us who pre-ordered the first day (possibly others in the first few days as well?) paid $1,599, same as list price USD for the black version.
Forum: Pentax K-5 03-10-2011, 11:34 AM  
Those with Pentax Store K-5 Silver Pre-Orders getting backorder messages?
Posted By bjsmith
Replies: 31
Views: 7,358
In warehouse! Whoo hoo!
Forum: Pentax K-5 03-07-2011, 08:34 AM  
Those with Pentax Store K-5 Silver Pre-Orders getting backorder messages?
Posted By bjsmith
Replies: 31
Views: 7,358
I was hopeful that someone with Pentax could confirm the dates (by country) here. I'm not looking for any hard verification, but just what is planned. I don't blame Pentax for anything, they have their dates and we all knew the introduction would be March-April. So just knowing the first date the first orders will ship, not necessarily when ours will ship, would be nice.
Forum: Pentax K-5 03-05-2011, 01:23 PM  
Those with Pentax Store K-5 Silver Pre-Orders getting backorder messages?
Posted By bjsmith
Replies: 31
Views: 7,358
Me too! I figured it was worth it, so I got the same deal, only $1,599. I only delayed the purchase a few hours, getting approval from the spouse.

I've read from a few different places that the total Worldwide will be only 1,500. Can anyone confirm?

In all honesty, when I pre-ordered in early February, I only "hoped" it would ship in time for Sebring. It would be nice, but I didn't expect Pentax to commit to it. My only concern was that if I still wait, I'll find out later I'm not getting one (delaying those few hours cost me one of the US models), when I could have bought a black for Sebring.

However, I did receive this response Friday afternoon (3/4) ...






QuoteQuote:

"Unfortunately, your order is on backorder at this time. We expect to receive the merchandise into stock on or around 3/15.

Once your order has shipped, you will receive a shipment confirmation via email.

Please note that all orders are shipped complete; therefore, if you purchased several items, we do not ship orders until all items are available."



Sebring is none-too-far from my Oviedo home where I'm shipping it to. So I could shoot with the K20D, then drive home to pick it up Thursday or Friday evening before the race itself on Saturday if it comes in. I figure with my luck, it will come in Monday (3/21), right after I'm back at work in Maryland. I'm not planning to come back to Florida for many months after Sebring.

Oh well, as long as I get it, even if it's after the race, I'm happy, especially for the intro price of $1,599. At least I'm hopeful I still might get it for the Sebring race itself.
Forum: Pentax K-5 03-04-2011, 04:49 AM  
Those with Pentax Store K-5 Silver Pre-Orders getting backorder messages?
Posted By bjsmith
Replies: 31
Views: 7,358
I heard March, then well after I ordered, March 10th for UK, April for US. At the same time, do they have different dates for early pre-orders at Pentax versus the April timeframe for major resellers?

Wouldn't be the first time. Pentax has outsourced their Store, as the notification came from another group. You can still order them.

Heck, they still show discontinued colors of the K-x on their site, although you can't order them.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 03-03-2011, 11:37 PM  
DA* 16-50mm buckled at green ring, big, black/gray specks on K20D sensor ...
Posted By bjsmith
Replies: 6
Views: 3,729
Yep. It seems the specs are all on the mirror and bottom of the pentaprism. The body is still intact. I had to "pop" it back into place, but it's there. I've taken it out in the rain for many hours, still working.

However, it does sometimes go "flaky" and won't shoot. Also, the dials are not precise sometimes, and everything from changing the aperture/shutter to zooming in and out when looking at photos is a PITA.

With my K-5 Limited Silver Kit pre-order from early February still on backorder and not coming through for Sebring, I'm going to "limp along" with the K20D for now. We'll see how it handles 4 days at Sebring.
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