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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 12-04-2019, 01:08 PM  
The Darktable Users Coterie
Posted By ChristianRock
Replies: 200
Views: 18,482
I know a lot of people here like to process their images in an individual fashion, after selecting their keepers...

...while others like me like to apply a baseline and then just adjust if needed. With Darktable being non-destructive, it's what some of us like to do.

So I uploaded a few new styles to dtstyle.net - two for portraits, one for landscapes and one for general photography:

General use: Init-Pop w_Filmic, Amaze, Vibrance
Landscape: Init-Sunny Day Pop w_Bright Pastel Colors
Portrait 1: Init-Portrait Pop with Filmic, Amaze, Split Toning
Portrait 2: Init-Portrait with Amaze, Split Toning

Some examples...

Direct raw conversion (no base curve). This was my youngest boy taken with the K-50 and DA 16-45mm.


Init-Portrait Pop with Filmic, Amaze, Split Toning
This is a more film-like approach without being too film-y (you can add a film emulation on top of it if necessary). The filmic module doesn't try to emulate any specific film but just the behavior of film, I guess negative film in this case because it gives lower contrast and saturation than base curves typically give. I did add a bit more clarity and added back some contrast and saturation, but didn't mess too much with filmic itself - as I stated above, I can't really master it yet.
The use of the tone splitting module is very subtle and is basically to give healthy skin tones while also contributing to a more film-like look very slightly.


Init-Portrait with Amaze, Split Toning
I seem to get better results still with the base curve, and I have the Pentax base curve selected as my default.
This also uses the tone splitting module for better skin tones and to tame the greens a little bit.


Feel free to comment or criticize. Next the I'll post the other two styles...
Forum: Post Your Photos! 12-17-2018, 10:24 AM  
Misc Iso 25600!
Posted By photoptimist
Replies: 21
Views: 1,394
A high ISO camera body is a lot more useful than a large aperture lens.

Sure, a large aperture lens enables a faster shutter speed and less motion blur. But that big heavy expensive lens has much worse blur due to missing focus and shallow DoF.

In contrast, a high ISO body enables both a faster shutter speed and whatever aperture the photographer wants.
Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories 05-10-2019, 01:25 PM  
Just Black and White-ur B/W Monochrome photos here
Posted By Scout
Replies: 21,338
Views: 1,540,668
Hi forum,
pp in Darktable, with a "like" Ilford HP5 colour mix (for B&W), grain and vignet.
Cropped (about 1/4 of the surface)
Research of a Low Key rendering
Cross posted in "Black and White", "24mm" and "Sigma lens club" threads

Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 03-04-2019, 02:14 PM  
(Un)popular Opinion: Pentax AF Doesn't Suck
Posted By brofessor
Replies: 198
Views: 15,048
Dear Pentaxians,

Last Friday, while I was on my way to get my watch repaired, I noticed a local photo/video gear store and decided to walk in. First of all, I was quite surprised to see a brick&mortar store of this size in the age of online shopping. However, not to my surprise, they didn't carry any Pentax gear. So, I decided to take a look at the Fuji X stuff, just to see if the grass is really greener out there. I took an X-T20 for a spin around the store. Admittedly, I didn't spend nearly enough time with X-T20 to reach a clear judgement on its full capabilities, but here is what happened:

The store manager put a XF 27mm f2.8 prime on it, because I told them I like small lenses. Then, I set the camera to ISO400 and started shooting around the well-lit store. After trying to shoot some close-ups of objects without much background contrast, this is the first sentence that came out of my mouth: "Man, this thing hunts like a pack of wolves!". Frankly, I was expecting a night and day difference from Fuji compared to my K-x in auto-focusing. I didn't check what setting the camera was at, but Fuji had a hard time deciding which points to focus on in the frame. In a similar situation, set at AF.S and center point, my K-x would lock on pretty decisively and quickly too with a DA21.

All in all, I wasn't impressed with Fuji's ability to auto-focus at all with the aforementioned lens. Focusing speed didn't change much with a higher quality lens (XF23 f1.8), but it was dead silent, which I liked a lot.

Cheers,

Brofessor.
Forum: Photographic Technique 02-08-2019, 02:19 AM  
What's your approach to composition?
Posted By biz-engineer
Replies: 48
Views: 3,478
My approach is the one fast and furious :mad::mad::mad: recommended by Sony/Nikon, to need a fast auto-focusing and fast frame rate camera and blast my surroundings taking 500 shots into fast expensive XQD cards (also randomly moving the AF points joystick with my thumb why pressing the shutter release continuously, and let the camera do the rest). Then I go home and try to find a usable shot.:fedup::hmm::D:lol:
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 01-23-2019, 11:19 AM  
Too much postprocessing?
Posted By biz-engineer
Replies: 91
Views: 6,325
Some post processing on the raw image is needed due to the abrupt response of digital sensors, film did not have this particular problem.
And I agree that more and more digital images are overprocessed in a attempt to compensate for lack of interest in the composition itself (old b&w photographs with images look great because they tell a compelling story, even if the contrast and sharpness are average). The problem is, the stronger the post processing is, the more we get used to surreal photographs, stronger and stronger post processing is then needed to keep images standout. It's analogous to the food we eat, nearly every transformed food sold in supermarkets contains preservatives, additives, sugar, salts, and taste enhancers needed due to desensitization of people taste, and also the lower taste on basic food before chemical are added.
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 12-03-2018, 02:48 PM  
Darktable 2.4.2 (Windows, Linux, etc)
Posted By jbinpg
Replies: 27
Views: 3,559
Here are the recently published release notes from one of the darktable developers for the upcoming 2.6 release which should be out in a couple of weeks unless there are some showstoppers that come to light:

- Over 1600 commits to darktable+rawspeed since 2.4
- 260+ pull requests handled
- 250+ issues closed
- Updated user manual is coming soon™

## The Big Ones

- new module retouch allowing changes based on image frequency layers
- new module filmic which can replace the base curve and shadows and
highlights
- new module to handle duplicates in the darkroom with possibility to
add a title, create standard or virgin duplicate, delete duplicate and
quickly compare with a duplicate
- new logarithm controls for the tone-curve
- new mode for the unbreak profile module
- add mask preview to adjust size, hardness before placing them
- make it possible to change the cropped area in the perspective
correction module
- the mask blur has been complemented with a guided-filter to fine tune
it
- color balance module has two new modes based on ProPhotoRGB and HSL
- Experimental support for PPC64le architecture (OpenCL support needs
to be disabled, `-DUSE_OPENCL=OFF`)

## New Features And Changes

- search from the map view is now fixed
- visual rework of the lighttable (color label, image kind, local copy)
- an option make it possible to display some image information directly
on the thumb
- add optional scrollbars on lighttable, or lighttable and darkroom
- allow each masks of the clone module to have the opacity adjusted
- lightroom import module supports the creator, rights, title,
description and publisher information.
- enhance TurboPrint support by displaying the dialogue with all
possible options
- new sort filter based on the image's aspect
- new sort filter based on the image's shutter speed
- new sort filter based on the image's group
- new sort filter based on a personalized sorting order (drag&drop on
the lighttable view)
- collection based on the local copy status
- group image number displayed on the collection module
- new zoom level at 50%; 400%, 800% and 1600%
- better support for monochrome RAW
- add contextual help pointing to the darktable's manual
- better copy/paste support for multiple instances
- add support for renaming the module instances
- add frequency based adjustment for the RAW denoise module
- add frequency based adjustment for the denoise profile module
- all widgets should be themable via CSS now
- add support for configuring the modules layout
- different way to select hierarchical tags in the collection module
(only the actual parent tag, all children or the parent and children)
- better handling of grouped images by allowing setting stars, color
label for the whole group.
- make it possible to apply a preset to a new module instance using the
middle click
- new script to migrate collection from Capture One Pro

## Bug fixes

- Fix the color pickers behavior in all modules
- Fix liquify tools switching
- Many more bugs got fixed

## Lua

- No changes

## Changed Dependencies

- CMake 3.4 is now required
- In order to compile darktable you now need at least gcc-5.0+/clang-
3.9+
- Minimal clang version was bumped from 3.4+ to 3.9+
- Packagers are advised to pass ```-DRAWSPEED_ENABLE_LTO=ON``` to CMake
to enable partial LTO.

## RawSpeed changes

- GoPro '.GPR' raws are now supported via new, fast 'VC-5' parallel
decompressor
- Panasonic's new raw compression ('.RW2', GH5s, G9 cameras) is now
supported via new fast, parallel 'Panasonic V5' decompressor
- Panasonic's old (also '.RW2') raw decompressor got rewritten, re-
parallelized
- Phase One ('.IIQ') decompressor got parallelized
- Nikon NEF 'lossy after split' raw support was recovered
- Phase One ('.IIQ') Quadrant Correction is now supported
- Olympus High-Res (uncompressed) raw support
- Lot's and lot's and lot's of maintenance, sanitization, cleanups,
small rewrites/refactoring.
- NOTE: Canon '.CR3' raws are *NOT* supported as of yet.

## Camera support, compared to 2.4.0

### Base Support

- Canon EOS 1500D
- Canon EOS 2000D
- Canon EOS Rebel T7
- Canon EOS 3000D
- Canon EOS 4000D
- Canon EOS Rebel T100
- Canon EOS 5D Mark IV (sRaw1, sRaw2)
- Canon EOS 5DS (sRaw1, sRaw2)
- Canon EOS 5DS R (sRaw1, sRaw2)
- Canon PowerShot G1 X Mark III
- Fujifilm X-A5
- Fujifilm X-H1 (compressed)
- Fujifilm X-T100
- Fujifilm X-T3 (compressed)
- GoPro FUSION (dng)
- GoPro HERO5 Black (dng)
- GoPro HERO6 Black (dng)
- GoPro HERO7 Black (dng)
- Hasselblad CFV-50
- Hasselblad H5D-40
- Hasselblad H5D-50c
- Kodak DCS Pro 14nx
- Kodak DCS520C
- Kodak DCS760C
- Kodak EOS DCS 3
- Nikon COOLPIX P1000 (12bit-uncompressed)
- Nikon D2Xs (12bit-compressed, 12bit-uncompressed)
- Nikon Z 6 (except uncompressed raws)
- Nikon Z 7 (except 14-bit uncompressed raw)
- Olympus E-PL8
- Olympus E-PL9
- Olympus SH-2
- Panasonic DC-FZ80 (4:3)
- Panasonic DC-G9 (4:3)
- Panasonic DC-GH5S (4:3, 3:2, 16:9, 1:1)
- Panasonic DC-GX9 (4:3)
- Panasonic DC-TZ200 (3:2)
- Panasonic DC-TZ202 (3:2)
- Panasonic DMC-FZ2000 (3:2)
- Panasonic DMC-FZ2500 (3:2)
- Panasonic DMC-FZ35 (3:2, 16:9)
- Panasonic DMC-FZ38 (3:2, 16:9)
- Panasonic DMC-GX7MK2 (4:3)
- Panasonic DMC-ZS100 (3:2)
- Paralenz Dive Camera (chdk)
- Pentax 645Z
- Pentax K-1 Mark II
- Pentax KP
- Phase One P65+
- Sjcam SJ6 LEGEND (chdk-b, chdk-c)
- Sony DSC-RX0
- Sony DSC-RX100M5A
- Sony DSC-RX10M4
- Sony DSC-RX1RM2
- Sony ILCE-7M3

### White Balance Presets

- Canon EOS M100
- Leaf Credo 40
- Nikon D3400
- Nikon D5600
- Nikon D7500
- Nikon D850
- Olympus E-M10 Mark III
- Olympus E-M1MarkII
- Panasonic DC-G9
- Panasonic DC-GX9
- Panasonic DMC-FZ300
- Sony DSC-RX0
- Sony ILCE-6500
- Sony ILCE-7M3
- Sony ILCE-7RM3

### Noise Profiles

- Canon EOS 200D
- Canon EOS Kiss X9
- Canon EOS Rebel SL2
- Canon EOS 750D
- Canon EOS Kiss X8i
- Canon EOS Rebel T6i
- Canon EOS 760D
- Canon EOS 8000D
- Canon EOS Rebel T6s
- Canon EOS 77D
- Canon EOS 9000D
- Canon EOS 800D
- Canon EOS Kiss X9i
- Canon EOS Rebel T7i
- Canon EOS M100
- Canon EOS M6
- Canon PowerShot G1 X Mark II
- Canon PowerShot G1 X Mark III
- Canon PowerShot G9 X
- Fujifilm X-T3
- Fujifilm X100F
- Nikon COOLPIX B700
- Nikon D5600
- Nikon D7500
- Nikon D850
- Olympus E-M10 Mark III
- Olympus TG-5
- Panasonic DC-G9
- Panasonic DC-GX9
- Panasonic DMC-FZ35
- Panasonic DMC-FZ38
- Panasonic DMC-GF6
- Panasonic DMC-LX10
- Panasonic DMC-LX15
- Panasonic DMC-LX9
- Panasonic DMC-TZ70
- Panasonic DMC-TZ71
- Panasonic DMC-ZS50
- Pentax K-01
- Pentax KP
- Samsung NX1
- Sony DSC-RX100M4
- Sony DSC-RX10M3
- Sony ILCE-7M3

## Translations

- Afrikaans
- Czech
- German
- Finnish
- French
- Galician
- Hebrew
- Hungarian
- Italian
- Norwegian Bokmål
- Nepal
- Dutch
- Portuguese
- Romanian
- Russian
- Slovenian
- Albanian
- Thai
- Chinese
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 10-17-2018, 09:45 AM  
The Darktable Users Coterie
Posted By ChristianRock
Replies: 200
Views: 18,482
I got jealous of the RawTherapee users having all the fun... so I thought we needed a thread where we can share knowledge and - why not? - pictures.

I'll start by mentioning the basic startup article: Getting started with the Darktable photography workflow application | Opensource.com

Then there's also the parametric masks, a great feature that I haven't used much yet but is one of the main reasons I moved to Darktable:














You Tube




The other main reason being the ability to do spot removals, something a lot of other programs don't do, and Darktable does extremely well IMHO:














You Tube




But what keeps me is the quality of the raw conversion. Not having used Lightroom before, I believe the image quality is likely on par with that program which most people use.

Finally, I have to mention the styles page that is also very helpful. Find it here: dtstyle.net - a darktable styles repository
I have used and highly recommend the following styles:
- 01_NWAL_Basics_settings - wanicophotos
This is the perfect starting point to any picture. In fact, if all you do is do a batch conversion of RAWs to JPEGs using just this preset, most if not all of your pictures will look better than what the Pentax JPEG engine can do (I have K-S1, K50 and K10D - newer Pentax cameras will have improved JPEG engines so this statement might not apply to them).
- ALL the styles marked "t3mujinpack". These are film emulations but are not just that. They emulate the strengths of these films but none of the weaknesses IMHO, so no grain, no reduced dynamic range like you would see in more "accurate" emulations.
- For black and white, there's one called "B&W with a twist (less sharpen)" that I think is fantastic, but I'm no B&W connoisseur. The t3mujinpack Acros emulation is very nice as well. For a warm B&W style, the "Mirco Kassisch" is my favorite. This one (and the B&W with a twist, mentioned earlier) make good use of the split toning module, which is such a powerful tool within Darktable and one I have also been using to make my color pictures look a bit more "vintage".

For people used to the Xtrans emulations in RawTherapee (I used them a lot after I found them), they are available for Darktable here: dt styles for arangast's "New Fujifilm XTrans film simulations" - darktable - discuss.pixls.us
Don't use the ones in the dtstyle.net page! The ones in the pixls.us page work much better. Also, only apply them on RAW files, as they don't look right when applied to JPEGs. Use t3mujinpack styles if you want to have the film look applied to JPEGs.

I have recently uploaded a few styles to the dtstyle.net page, as well. They can be found closer to the top and are the ones with my name on them (Christian).

In summary, what I like about Darktable is that it can be as deep or as simple as you'd like. There's some quirks but nothing that keeps me from making this my program of choice.

Here's an image that had basically nothing but my "Landscape Sunny Day Pop" style applied, and then it was cropped to 16:9.
IMGP6724 by ChristianRock, on Flickr

Share your Darktable experiences and pictures!
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 09-15-2018, 03:49 AM  
Whither LBA?
Posted By Sandy Hancock
Replies: 49
Views: 2,583
I'm lost.

I now have 15-450mm covered by modern DFA zooms.
....and fast primes at 24, 35, 50, 85 and 135.
Add the Three Amigos - all MIJ and silver.

What am I supposed to do now? Go out and take photos??

The pain is real.
Forum: General Talk 07-21-2018, 05:08 AM  
Camera, Car, Computer Trifecta
Posted By robert52
Replies: 26
Views: 1,741
volvo no & apple part I agree 100% most over rated items out
Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2 07-14-2018, 06:42 AM  
Post your K-S2 Shots Here
Posted By smf
Replies: 739
Views: 110,299
Early Morning Swimmers by smfmi, on Flickr

Image (cross-posted) captured through a fence with Tokina 500mm mirror lens on tripod-pounted K-S2. Processed in Lightroom 4, Photoshop Elements 13, Viveza and Silver Efex Pro 2.
Forum: General Photography 07-02-2018, 03:25 AM  
Is great kit a mixed blessing?
Posted By ffking
Replies: 152
Views: 6,994
I don't know if I'm just going through and end of mid life crisis, whether it's just the dilution effect so many images out there, or whether I'm just getting jaded - but I find fewer and fewer pictures on Flickr (I don't operate on instagram or others) that actually hold my attention.

One possible explanation is the number of training courses and many free YouTube How To videos, which tend to lead to everyone going to the same places and doing the same things - which is an issue, but I don't consciously do that, and I'm also finding my own images less interesting. ( :( )

I've also noticed that since being a regular browser of PF contributions, for better and worse, I've become much more kit aware.

What I am wondering is this: is modern kit so good that it's too easy to produce images that have an immediate impact, and does this too often stop us from going that bit further to produce something exceptional, meaningful - and memorable?

Any thoughts?
Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 06-25-2018, 06:34 PM  
Two New Headshots
Posted By mcgregni
Replies: 25
Views: 1,635
Aiming to solve the problems of portraits in a confined living space, here are a couple of recent ones where I have managed to avoid the light spill onto the black curtains behind. I did this by really squeezing the subject onto a small defined spot, with the lights very close in, and zooming in to remove most space around the edges. I think with a bit of careful positioning and getting angles right, we domestic portrait shooters can avoid the expense and extra space demanded by studio backdrops and the stands and things this would all entail.

The main light is from a white umbrella, and the backlight is a 60x60cm softbox.

K7 - D FA28-105mm - Cactus V6II / RF60x Flashes (x2) - ISO 100 - F9.5 - 1/180th








Forum: General Photography 06-22-2018, 05:31 PM  
How do you select photos?
Posted By aaacb
Replies: 30
Views: 1,549
As a general rule, when it comes to selecting from my own pictures, I've noticed that I tend to select differently from what other choose. I never enter serious competitions, I'm mostly talking about choosing which photos to print, or to post in various weekly or thematic threads here on pf, or elsewhere online.

My selection/editing process is to either:
- get excited about a recent photo. this is somewhat balanced with film because I'm more detached from the moment of capture, the excitement is just seeing them developed and scanned;
- have one in mind from a while ago, something that I remember distinctly. these are usually the ones only I like;
- go through my gallery and try to narrow down my selection with successively smaller pools, but this relies on having a cleanly tagged library which sometimes isn't the case.

I'm wondering how others select photos, what is your method?
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 06-22-2018, 01:45 PM  
How has printing affected your photography (if it has)?
Posted By sergeremy
Replies: 13
Views: 725
I have found bits and pieces about this but not a thread dedicated to it... Also, not sure it should be here or in general photography?

Anyway! I know that in this day and age the question should be "how has digital viewing affected your photography?", but I'm coming at this from the viewpoint of one who came back to photography in the digital age (after dabbling a bit in film a waaaaay long time back, but not seriously at all) or one who came to photography after the demise of film.

I've been at it for five years now, and have started printing about 18 months ago. I print one image per month at around 20x30cm or in that ballpark for other formats. I've been lucky enough to have found a great professional who runs a small printing (and graphic design) business in my town.

My very first print was on a well-established online site here in France, and the experience and result were nothing like the results (and relationship!) I've developped with my local printer.

To the point then: my first succesful print (with her helping in the choice of paper - she was right, I was wrong) was an eye-opener. I saw detail, textures, tonal gradations -light even!- I had never seen in my file. And I was in awe of actually having physical inkdrops bringing all this to life - I could see the ink and it's interaction with the beautiful paper. Natural light playing on the print. Wow. (I've seen many beautiful exhibits of course, but hey, this was my print!)

I don't work on a decent screen , but I've seen my pictures on a few. I'll admit they "pop" and "shine" on those, but they are not at all what I get in print. And I prefer what I get in print.

I now take my pictures knowing (hoping, at least) the important ones are destined to be printed; those get taken with the print in my mind's eye. I take them with more care and, in a corny way, with more feeling.

And, perhaps to a greater extent, my post-processing has been very positively affected. I see more in my files than I did before, both in details and in the big picture (yeah, bad pun there). I experiment and have found how to bring things where i really want them, thanks to seeing that print in my mind.

Perhaps most importantly, printing has made me strive for a certain consistency in feel for certain sets of images - both at the time of clicking the shutter and at pp time.

And culling! It's got to be to pretty high standards (well, at my level at least) to get to paper.

So, how has printing affected your photography, if it has?

My first happy print was of this picture:

St Fargeau, 2015 by sry, sur Flickr
Forum: General Photography 06-22-2018, 05:19 PM  
Tell me about your gear and processing workstation!
Posted By FozzFoster
Replies: 14
Views: 786
Hey!
I want to know your what gear you're using and what rig and software you use to edit photos!
I don't need to know ever lens you got, just the current go-to's that are always on your camera!

Right now I'm using:
Cameras & Gear:
Pentax K-S2
Pentax DA 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 ED AL[IF] DC WR
Sigma 24mm f/1.8 EX DG Aspherical Macro
Pentax F 50mm f/1.7
Pentax D FA 100mm f/2.8 Macro WR
Pentax DA 55-300mm f/4.5-6.3 ED PLM WR RE
Pentax O-GPS1 Unit
Pentax AF-360FGZ Flash
Cactus V6 II Wireless HSS Flash Transceivers

Computer and software:
Adobe Creative Cloud Suite (Lightroom, Photoshop, Premiere Pro)
AMD Ryzen 5 1600 CPU
RX580 8GB GPU
16GB RAM
LG 24MP59G-P 23.8" 1920x1080 75Hz IPS FreeSync Monitor

Here's my current gear:
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/b/GKcYcf

Here's my current build:
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/b/GKcYcf

I recently purchased the 18-135 after upgrading from the DA-L 18-50 RE and I'm blown away!
The 18-135 really out shoots the 18-50 RE and the build quality is so much nicer.
I shoot a lot of landscape, but I've been shooting astro with my 18-50 RE with good results and I'm interested if the 18-135 can be used just as well.

I really like shoot macro photography so both my 24mm and 100mm are often with me to get some variable focal lengths in my composition.
For portraits I'm shooting with my F 50mm f/1.7 - really nice on APSC, tack sharp, and recess front element so no need for a hood!

For birding I've recently replaced my Sigma 70-300 with the new DA 55-300 PLM and I am just so spoiled now!
All other focusing systems are just SO slow!! The retractable button doubles as a zoom-creep lock. It's weather-sealed. It completely silent focusing. AND it's acceptably sharp throughout it's focal range with some excellent sweet spots.

The computer works excellent! I wanted to game on it too so I went with a 1080p IPS 75Hz FreeSync monitor.
The Adobe Suite runs like a charm with only the most intense operations slowing it down a touch.
It's the best bang for my buck, but there's compromises all around!

What do you got? What's your editing battle station like??
Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 06-20-2018, 08:11 AM  
Which mode do you use with flash, and why?
Posted By mcgregni
Replies: 20
Views: 2,095
Some great advice here already!


I think there's 2 other decisions to be taken before deciding which camera mode to use .....


1) Any ambient light to be recorded alongside the flash exposure?
2) If yes to 1 above, then will that ambient light be variable (eg from changing shooting angles and directions, or the natural light changing strength)


If there is no ambient light being recorded, eg indoors or a studio situation, then choose M camera mode and fix the exposure time at the max sync setting (1/180th or 1/200th).


If you do want to mix ambient and flash exposures to create a balance of your choice, then that opens up question 2 above .... if the ambient light is stable and your shooting situation is static, then also choose M camera mode, but this time you make a specific choice of exposure time, progressively lengthening it to increase the level of ambient exposure.


However, if outdoors in sun and clouds, or moving around a lot, then Choose Av mode. In this scenario I also take Carls approach and dial down the EC for the ambient a bit, and then find a good flash compensation (FC) setting to get my desired lighting balance between the two. The advantage of Av mode in this type of environment is that the camera metering will respond to changes in natural light levels (say for example you moved to a position where more sky was in the frame), and adjust the ambient exposure accordingly, but keeping your EC setting and compensating automatically. Of course like all automation, its not always going to get every shot spot on, but if you wish to concentrate on moving, framing and capturing subjects then its a great help.


One thing to be aware of is that the camera metering system will automatically determine whether the flash exposure is fulfilling a 'full flash' or 'fill flash' role, and this is based on an (unknown) ambient EV level. So, in brighter conditions when the subject has a good amount of light falling onto it, the flash exposure will be reduced accordingly automatically, to take on a 'fill' role. However, in darker conditions where the subject is not well illuminated by natural light, then the flash will be more powerful to light the whole subject fully. So for this reason we will find that flash compensation settings may need to be different for the same subject depending on the amount of natural light measured at the time. This of course only applies to P-TTL flash mode ..... if we want to remove this aspect of flash automation and gain more total control then we will need to use Manual Flash mode.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 07-15-2017, 06:12 AM  
Book built around Pentax
Posted By chrisknightphoto
Replies: 18
Views: 2,891
Hey everyone,

Thanks for posting this :) I hope that if you've read it, you've enjoyed it at least a little. Just to tack on a few points and answer a few questions (I know this thread is about a month old - please forgive me)

-The book was just released in print on July 13th. It's also available as an e-book in all formats. Amazon has the Kindle and Rockynook.com has everything else.

-For the launch, I worked with RGG Edu to make a video tutorial that goes along with the book (lots of Pentax love in that). They did a brilliant job putting it together and I'm very proud of what we did together. I won't link to it per the first post (and I'll remove this part if it violates the rules at all).

-I absolutely agree with the above posts: the camera doesn't make the work. At the end of the day it's a tool (a tool that I love), but a medium format camera isn't needed to make images that you love. I'm a big believer in concept and purpose, then using your tools (whatever they are) to further the goal. Gear is often a luxury, not a necessity. We just need to find what we're comfortable with and what works the best for us. That said, the flexibility of the 645Z files 'floods my basement' if you know what I mean.

-In regards to the e-book vs. paperback pricing, it can fluctuate based on Amazon (they get to set their prices independent of the publisher). In the early release days, the e-book was listed higher for some reason (it didn't make sense to me either), but I think it's sorted out now.

-As far as my cut - it's relatively small in regards to the cost to be honest. You don't really write a book to get rich. I think if I tallied the amount of hours I put into it with what I'll probably make, it's below minimum wage. BUT I had always wanted to write a book, and it was more for me than the money. I was lucky that I had an editor who let me largely have final say on how everything turned out, so this book is the one I wanted to make.

If anyone has any other questions, feel free to ask and I'll do my best to get back to them as soon as I can.
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