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Forum: Lens Clubs 03-28-2020, 04:30 AM  
The DA Limited Club
Posted By EricBT
Replies: 5,356
Views: 1,022,104
Plenty Gorge
Forum: Lens Clubs 6 Days Ago  
The DA Limited Club
Posted By aslyfox
Replies: 5,356
Views: 1,022,104
SMC PENTAX-DA 21mm F3.2 AL Limited

Tulips at Gage Park
Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories 04-01-2020, 01:03 PM  
Thematic The SOOC Club
Posted By aslyfox
Replies: 158
Views: 6,189
K 3 II + SMC Pentax D FA 100mm F2.8 Macro ( not WR )

SOOC

flowers at the Ted Ensley Garden Lake Shawnee
Forum: Product Suggestions and Feedback 03-25-2020, 07:42 AM  
Dynamic Range Mode: Message to Ricoh
Posted By normhead
Replies: 37
Views: 1,147
Or in other words, there's no free lunch..... :D

You want, the lowest ISO, at the slowest effective shutter (without incurring motion blur) with the appropriate aperture setting (often ƒ5.6 for APS-c or ƒ8 for FF.)

If you can't get to 100 ISO, ƒ8, 1/100s everything after that is likely a compromise. It's always your choice as to what you'll sacrifice in your image but whatever it is, it won't be ideal once you vary from optimum settings.

But there's a lot of leeway between "ideal" and "good enough." Almost any camera will produce great results with ideal settings, it's how much of the less than ideal is still useable that defines how good the camera is.

The fact that some prefer to shoot at 2.8 or 1.4 doesn't change that. There is a technically definable ideal setting for each camera at every f-stop. Most are impractical.

I'd love to be able to look at the charts and decide for what I want to do 100 ISO, ƒ11, and 1/2000s would be the best solution. But the practical problems with using such a setting on a regular basis are obvious to anyone with experience in the field.

Deciding where to put your compromises, a bit of noise weighed against a bit of motion blur, a wider depth of field weighed against better subject sharpness, that's why photography is an art, not a science. Even with sharpness, an ƒ11 which is well past the diffraction limit can look sharper than an ƒ4 image, because the whole subject is in focus. The science can't predict how pleasing the combination of variables will be based on what looks good to a human. Only on how it looks to a test chart.

It is our individual biases as to how to compromise that in most cases sets us apart from other photographers and gives us a unique style. It also means 20 photographers shooting the same scene will likely produce 20 different images. None of them are "wrong". But some may be found more pleasing by a large part of the population.

Even then, you may not be in agreement with what the majority of the population thinks looks good. Using a good camera, which for digital I would define as anything form 4/3 to 645, gives you more chance of producing images you like, as more deviation from the standard "everything in focus shot in broad daylight" is possible.
Forum: Pentax KP 03-24-2020, 06:40 PM  
New KP owner - where to start?
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 13
Views: 511
Definitely. You could leaf through the manual for general orientation to learn the functions of various controls, but otherwise learn as you go. As for me, I like the buttons set for their main usual purposes- including the exposure comp set for that, as I use it fairly often and the button is the most convenient access to this function.

Some insist RAW is the only way to shoot. For me, I reserve that for special subject matter and lighting circumstances. To post process any RAW images, I just use the software supplied. I do not subscribe to any other service. For what I do, highest-quality JPEG images are just fine, especially with the KP's exceptionally good in-camera processor. Just be sure to set "Fine Sharpening" in the Custom Image menus, especially in the most often-used "Bright" category.
Forum: Product Suggestions and Feedback 03-22-2020, 03:41 PM  
Dynamic Range Mode: Message to Ricoh
Posted By BruceBanner
Replies: 37
Views: 1,147
Dunno if this helps also, but with the KP, Menu 1>ISO Auto Setting>ISO Sensitivity Options>put it to 'Tv'. Now you will notice that the Minimum Shutter Speed below changes from Fast, Normal and Slow to actually allowing you to specify a lowest acceptable shutter speed, so if for example 1/15 is as low as you ever want to go, it will give you that and no lower.

I really wish the K-1 got the same firmware as the KP, it just has a few more options as well as the Aperture Bracketing Shooting Mode.

-------------

Anyway, I'm a bit late to the party, I'm just wanting to get my head around the OP's point. Am I to understand that say the following settings were used in a shot and were necessary to correctly expose the image;

Shot A
1/50
f5.6
ISO 3200

The user could not drop shutter speed further without running the risk of motion blur (either from the subject in the frame moving or user shaking the camera+lens)
f5.6 is the preferred aperture used, optimum sharpness and correct DoF for the required shot
ISO 3200 is given because of the available light the scene is given (ie it's no overly bright environment etc).

If the user took the shot at;

Shot B
1/50
f5.6
ISO 100

then the shot would be grossly underexposed, to chimp the back of the camera LCD screen would show a black screen. However, once the user is back at home in front of a computer, taking Shot B into a RAW editor like LR, increasing Exposure slider and thus bringing the shot 'back to life', once increasing the exposure enough to catch up somewhere close to the brightness that Shot A obtained with it's ISO 3200, would the image quality/noise be better, or worse? Would the detail in the shadows be better or worse? Clearly highlights would be better protected?
And so this is 'ISOless'? The idea that underexposed images are not a deal breaker, because just boost the exposure in post and you get something with a similar or even better IQ than what you would have had at the time of the shot with a higher ISO and more correct exposure?

If Shot B is the intention of the OP, but Av is not allowing holding at 1/50 well enough, does TAv then become a viable option? I just tested now with my K-1. I set my camera to use 1/50, f5.6 and it gave ISO 1250. If I then pressed the EV Comp button I could just lower the ISO and thus underexpose the image and get ISO 100 with still having 1/50 and f5.6.
Forum: Pentax KP 03-16-2020, 10:52 PM  
KP for landscape, long term usability, and good lens
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 40
Views: 1,545
As an all around zoom lens, the more compact DA 18-135mm would be my choice. Even though my preference is for the lighter, very compact DA 20-40mm LTD in general, that wide-range zoom lens is surprisingly good! It can even deliver very good closeups, complete with good bokeh. As to the Fuji, keep in mind the number of shortcomings detailed in the video, and also that part of the weight difference is it does not feature having a built-in flash. I find having one handy for being available for instant use, and not having to carry yet more stuff. I have plenty of flash units for use when the occasion does demand one.

In the SLR section of the forums, take a look at the thread- DA 18-135mm WR Show us what it can do. You will find plenty of good examples.

Of course, if a condition turns up where a JPEG + RAW may prove useful, like higher contrast scenes, it is just a button away. However, it may be also just a tweek in the camera's highlight or shadow detail setting to take care of an issue, and then by shooting both you can decide later. One thing about the KP, it has a very sophisticated set of controls.

As to the video comparing different camera makes for JPEGs, besides the "Fine Sharpening" omission, the guy doing the testing first showed two Pentax models, the K-70 and KP, but only used one, not indicating which, yet each uses a different sensor and metering. My experience has been that each Pentax model is somewhat different in many respects, including color reproduction. He also failed to show that with Pentax, one has numerous color palette choices to set for the camera's JPEG output and can then even adjust color saturation, contrast, sharpening, and more within each palette setting. I would bet the other brands offer no such control.
Forum: Pentax KP 03-14-2020, 01:50 AM  
KP for landscape, long term usability, and good lens
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 40
Views: 1,545
I agree. As to JPEGs right out of the camera, the KP excels. Better dynamic range than one would expect for JPEG images- that is shadow and highlight detail. As to JPEG + RAW, a good idea, but takes up a lot of storage room, and slows up write time for action shooting, so I reserve doing that for special shots where I might be extra picky for more active post process editing, or that kind of subject with also a very high contrast situation to get the maximum DR possible. The end result will of course depend on post processing skills. The KP's out of camera results are exceptional, though. Just be sure to implement "Fine Sharpening" in the Custom Image finishing menus, especially in the most often-used "Bright" category to bring out maximum detail in images. Very important. Any trouble with that, just give a holler.

The camera might come already with the mode dial set on the green "auto" mode. But the first thing is, do not use this setting. If you desire fully automatic exposure by the camera choosing the aperture and shutter speed, use the "P" (Program) setting instead. The KP has a beautiful controls design. The green "auto" mode denies access to many controls and adjustments, including the exclusive Pentax Hyper System, the fastest, most efficient operating system in existence. More on that after you get the camera.

I also recommend the DA 20-40mm Limited lens for a short zoom, which fits the KP's design as if made for it. I've had mine for over two years, and love it. I bought my KP in silver, got it from B&H and it is a beaut, the lens as well. The build quality of this lens is in keeping with the excellent build of this unique camera body, and features WR in its construction like the camera body, and has a quiet, accurate AF system. I too have long had the K-5 IIs, a fine camera, along with many lenses, and still like it and use it on occasion, but the KP is my usual choice.

For what it is, the KP's price these days is not bad at all. Cameras of this build class do not come cheap, same with lenses of this caliber. To get metal construction with WR in Canon or Nikon, the bodies start in the $1,000 + range, and the same with WR lenses.

Your canon 24mm f/2.8 checks out as a very good-performing little lens, except for very heavy vignetting at f/2.8 aperture.

If you wish to do some extra-wide angle work, it is best to get a lens specifically for this range, such as the Sigma 10-20mm f/3.5 EX DC HSM, which is excellent. Or the fine little DA 15mm f/4 Limited for extra-compact use. You would have better quality and wider angle, along with far less distortion than possible with a type of zoom lens covering both extra wide angle and short tele range. To extend the tele end of your compact kit, the DA 70mm f/2.4 is superb. Not cheap, but superb. Superbly built, with great imaging quality yet amazingly small. These other lenses do not feature WR, but are otherwise very well built. And it is not necessary to get all at once. You can build your kit in your own time. This is why we have cameras that can change lenses for different purposes.

The DA 18-135mm is a fine all-around zoom lens with a lot of range for events where you'd need to go from wide angle shots then zoom in for an individual closeup without having to change lenses. It is remarkably compact and very good imaging for this type of lens and remarkably, also features WR construction. I have all of these lenses I've mentioned, acquired over time.

And do get an extra battery. They are small, easy to carry and easy to change. I got the generic Watson brand, which has been fine so far.
Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories 03-07-2020, 01:21 PM  
Thematic Post your Church images
Posted By newmikey
Replies: 830
Views: 67,683
The village church of De Rijp in the Netherlands, dating back to 1655
De Rijp by Mike Bing, on Flickr

Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Jeruzalem, Israel
imgp0637-dt-2017-web by Mike Bing, on Flickr

Marlow church, Marlow, UK
Marlow pano by Mike Bing, on Flickr

Villa de Mazo, La Palma, Spain
Villa de Mazo (La Palma) church in pastel by Mike Bing, on Flickr

Edinburgh Cathedral, UK
Edinburgh by night by Mike Bing, on Flickr

Sint-Servaasbasiliek, Maastricht, Netherlands
Maastricht, Vrijthof pano by Mike Bing, on Flickr
Forum: Pentax KP 02-27-2020, 05:12 AM  
All we need is a KP
Posted By WorksAsIntended
Replies: 121
Views: 4,396
I fail to see how the deeper grip changes the camera to not be compact anymore.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 02-07-2020, 06:50 PM  
Affordable DSLR body that's weather resistant?
Posted By PDL
Replies: 64
Views: 2,655
One point to remember is that even though the body is weather resistant, if you have a lens that is not --- all bets are off.

In order to have a weather resistant system - both body and lens need to be sealed.
Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories 01-08-2020, 02:58 PM  
Post your window photos
Posted By jquill
Replies: 1,075
Views: 111,207
Trinitarian Monastery

Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories 02-03-2020, 10:38 AM  
Infrared Filters still used?
Posted By Jan178
Replies: 35
Views: 1,064
In my understanding one cannot fyllu replicate IR by PP. Somewhat simulate, yes.

I got myself used and cheap *ist DL and removed the IR hot filter (the one that blocks infrared light) from the front of the sensor. Usually its replaced by clear glass to maintain AF accuracy, but since it seems to be hard to get the right sized piece of glass and im shooting manual anyway i left it without it. Couple of (because the quality variations) cheap chinese IR-filters to use on the front of lens and i think the results are quite good!

[IMG]IMGP0219b by Jani Fofonoff, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]Dancer by Jani Fofonoff, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]Arktikum by Jani Fofonoff, on Flickr[/IMG]
Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories 02-02-2020, 11:17 PM  
Thematic The SOOC Club
Posted By BruceBanner
Replies: 158
Views: 6,189
Mono Monday



Only the bordering and watermark is additional (and the crop), the image was taken Jpg and seen zero editing. First time doing a SOOC with bordering & watermarking, amazing how 'less SOOCy' it can appear...
Forum: Pentax KP 01-24-2020, 03:17 AM  
Post Your Best KP Shots
Posted By Riddler
Replies: 2,081
Views: 205,038
In the park
Kp with takumar macro 50 mm
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 01-15-2020, 06:02 PM  
The Pentax Battery Level Meter -- What it actually shows
Posted By c.a.m
Replies: 21
Views: 1,358
The Pentax Battery Level Indicator -- What it actually shows

Have you ever wondered what your camera’s battery meter is really telling you?

This article presents my study that aimed to establish a quantitative relationship between the Pentax K-3 II battery level indicator and the battery's state of charge. In other words, how much battery charge is left as indicated by the meter?

Happy to receive any comments.

- Craig



Summary

The Operating Manuals for various Pentax cameras provide scant information on the meaning of the Battery Level Indicator. The analysis reported here has determined that the indicators on the Pentax K-3 II, using an original D-LI90 battery, represent the battery charge levels shown in Figure 1, which has not been documented in the manuals or other Pentax literature.

Importantly, the findings reveal that a ‘3 bar, full’ indication can be illuminated at as low a charge as half-full, while the ‘2 bar’ indication is not nearly “close to full” as stated in certain operating manuals.






Introduction

Many Pentax cameras implement a battery level indicator, either on a top-panel LCD, a rear information screen, or both. Typically, the top LCD indicator illuminates up to three segments or 'bars', depending on the charge state of the battery. The indicator in the rear screen uses colour – commonly, green, yellow or red. By themselves, the battery indicators provide only a coarse qualitative cue of the state of the battery's charge. Furthermore, operating manuals for various Pentax cameras do not provide any details to guide a user to accurately understand the battery level or how many shots are left.

Operating manuals for certain older cameras, such as the K-30, K-50, and K-5 II, provide a brief description of the Battery Level Indicator. Unfortunately, more recent manuals, such as those for the K-3, K-70 and K-1, omit such information entirely, so those users have little insight into the meaning of the indicator. There doesn’t seem to be any evidence that the implementation or precision of the battery indicator have changed over the years, so it likely functions similarly across the older and newer camera models. Therefore, it is assumed here that the information that is available in some manuals may be applied generally.

According to the Operating Manual for the K-5 II, the LCD indicator represents the following 'battery levels':
- 3 bars: Full
- 2 bars: Close to full
- 1 bar: Running low
- no bars, but illuminated: Almost empty
- no bars, blinking: empty, or end of useful charge.
The following analysis quantifies the four battery levels and relates the state of battery charge to the indicator status. This study did not intend to analyze the number of shots possible from a fully-charged or partially-discharged battery. Also, the scope of this article precludes a thorough description of battery ‘fuel gauge’ implementations or an analysis of the dynamic discharge characteristics of the Pentax battery under various operating modes.


Li-Ion Battery Discharge Characteristics


As shown in a post by PF member @AstroDave ( Some Pentax D-LI90 Battery Charge/Discharge Measurements - PentaxForums.com), and illustrated in various manufacturers' technical data sheets, the voltage across a Lithium-Ion (Li-Ion) cell decreases with its discharge state; the more energy drawn from a battery, the lower its voltage. A battery’s State of Charge (SOC) is defined as the fraction of the maximum possible energy charge present in a rechargeable battery, commonly expressed as a percentage. For example, a fully-charged battery has, by definition, an SOC value of 1.0 or 100%; a battery that is discharged halfway has an SOC of 50%.

Estimating a battery’s SOC accurately and precisely is difficult because few relevant physical parameters are measurable while a battery is in use. A simple scheme may measure the battery’s voltage to infer the SOC, but the relationship between voltage and remaining capacity is not strictly linear. However, under typical discharge conditions, a healthy Li-ion battery exhibits a roughly linear, sloped voltage-capacity profile across most of its discharge cycle until it is nearly exhausted. The voltage decreases approximately proportionally to the SOC over most of a discharge cycle, so the SOC may be inferred from the measured voltage. Using the open-circuit (no-load) voltage (Voc) generally provides more accurate results than the closed-circuit voltage (Vcc, i.e., under operating load), which is affected by a cell’s variable internal resistance and the circuit’s operating current.

SOC estimates based on Vcc can have errors of 10% or more, especially at the ‘tail end’ of a discharge, but this may be an acceptable trade-off for this practical and relatively simple method. Using Vcc is suitable for determining the relative state of charge, but is not appropriate for measuring the battery’s actual capacity in mAh.

The Pentax D-LI90 battery consists of two cells, almost certainly model 18500, from an unknown manufacturer. The battery has a specified nominal voltage of 7.2 V (3.6 V per cell), a maximum charge voltage of 8.4 V, and a typical end-of-discharge cut-off voltage of 6 V. A new, fully-charged battery in its relaxed state will show an open-circuit voltage of approximately 8.4 V. It has a rated capacity of 1860 mAh.


Image files contain battery voltage data


Unlike the Exif data for most other camera brands, fortuitously the Pentax Exif data include three tags related to the camera battery (Ref: Pentax Tags, Pentax Tags , revised 11 December 2019):
- BodyBatteryVoltage1 (‘V1’)
- BodyBatteryVoltage2 (‘V2’)
- BodyBatteryState.
The battery voltages are interpreted in volts, while the state is registered as an integer that is encoded as follows:
1 = Empty or Missing
2 = Almost Empty
3 = Running Low
4 = Close to Full
5 = Full
This information may be readily extracted by using an Exif reader application such as ExifTool or ExifToolGUI. Typically, the battery information appears in the Makernotes section of the Exif structure.

It is not known at which pick-off points in the camera the two voltages are measured, or what parameters they actually represent. Lacking a design specification or model to relate the two voltages, this study used Voltage1 to characterize the discharge profile, assuming that it measures the operating closed-circuit voltage.


Transition Levels for the Battery State

The basic methodology in this study involved looking at the Exif data in hundreds of my existing image files, in particular sets of images that included sequences of many tens of images taken at short intervals during single photo outings or lens focus-calibration sessions. ExifToolGUI was used to scroll through the files while looking at the battery tags in Makernotes. Stable transitions in BodyBatteryState and their associated battery voltages were noted, i.e., Full --> Close to full, Close to full --> Running low, etc. Some 20 such discrete transitions were identified. Each set of similar 'transition voltages' was averaged to find a valid value pertinent to each battery state.

Across the images, three D-LI90 batteries had been used arbitrarily in the camera: date stamped 201805, 201509, and 201207. The two older batteries are believed to be satisfactorily healthy despite their age. A battery grip was not employed.

In addition, the study also examined two special sets of image files, in which controlled battery life tests had been performed on a single battery (dated 201805). Besides incorporating the image files from these two tests into the broad Exif inspection, they were used to establish the value of Voltage1 at full charge (7.46 and 7.45 V) and full discharge (6.0 and 5.9 V), which are key parameters in this analysis.

The voltage transition points are indicated in Table 1. Assuming the linear discharge profile mentioned above, the state of charge was determined as follows:
Full charge: V1max = 7.455 V (average 7.46, 7.45)
End of useful charge (EOC, i.e., empty): V1min = 5.95 V
State of charge (SOC) = 1 - ( (V1max - V1) / (V1max - V1min) )



Corroborating Tests

One of the special test sets, called 'Series 3', was used for a different methodology to relate the battery state indication to the state of charge. Series 3 started with a full battery and achieved 370 shots before the battery was depleted. The number of shots associated with each Body Battery State was determined from the Exif data, and their percentages give an estimate of the SOC divisions. For example, as shown in Table 2, 47% of the images had a Battery State of 'Full', which correlates well with the estimate determined from the overall image sets. While the findings do not agree perfectly across the two methodologies, they are reasonably close.




To further validate the methodology and corroborate the findings, another dedicated battery discharge test was conducted using continuous video recording segments. Recording was started with a freshly-charged battery. At various times, the recording was stopped, a still image was taken immediately, and the open-circuit voltage was measured on the extracted battery using a digital voltmeter. The recording test was continued until the battery indicator was observed to transition solidly to ‘2 bars’.

The pertinent data from this test is given in Table 3, while Figure 2 shows the open-circuit voltage and BodyBatteryVoltage1 (V1) as function of operating time. Of note is the full-charge V1 voltage of 7.49 V, which is about 0.5% higher than the values seen in the other two series (7.46, 7.45 V). This suggests that the battery had achieved a slightly higher full charge.

The transition to 2 bars was registered at a Voltage1 value of 6.74 V, compared to the average of 6.67 V and a maximum reading of 6.71 V seen in the main data set.








Conclusion

The overall findings are summarized in Figure 3. The vertical bars indicate the Voltage1 values associated with each battery state, while the maximum state of charge (SOC) of each state is given above each bar.




In summary, the Battery Level Indicator on the K-3 II, using a genuine Pentax D-LI90 battery under normal operating conditions, indicates the following battery charge status:

- 3 bars: battery is charged 100 – 50 %
- 2 bars: 50 – 33 %
- 1 bar: 33 – 15 %
- no bars, but illuminated: less than 15% charge remaining.

If a user sees 3 bars, the camera has at least 50% of the battery charge remaining – it’s not below half. Two bars indicate at least 33% charge – still good for perhaps a couple hundred more shots under modest battery consumption. A single bar could mean as little as 15% battery power remains. No bar means that there is still some 'juice' left, but the camera will shut down soon, especially under power-hungry functions such as Live-View – it’s time to swap batteries.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 05-17-2018, 02:47 PM  
Justification for the Pentax 20-40 Limited, compared to 18 50 HD
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 35
Views: 3,427
I have both the DA 20-40mm LTD and the 18-50mm. I got the latter as a kit with my K-S2 purchase for next to nothing. I have numerous fine lenses,including Limited primes and high-quality zooms. This little lens surprised me with the quality of its images and its very good, quiet AF. Couldn't beat the price- around $40 or so. I bought the K-S2 as replacement for my K-r as my smallest, lightest DSLR. That being the idea, the little zoom lens fit the concept perfectly. It is a particular use and application that dictates the value of the equipment chosen.

I primarily use this little wonder on the K-S2 for the reason given, and it is amazing that I can actually fit a very competent DSLR into a large jacket pocket with a good-performing zoom lens on it, and having WR to boot! When shooting with my KP, however, the DA 20-40mm is among my top considerations. I shoot in lower light situations fairly often. Its f/2.8-4 aperture and fine-quality, contrasty imaging performance are also appreciated, along with very good handling. It has relatively low distortion for a zoom lens, and its low flair at low-light angles is another advantage.

The DA 18-135mm is among my arsenal as well. It is highly valued, especially when the need is- having an extensive zoom range to address circumstances where changing lenses is to be avoided. It is also very compact for lens with such a zoom range to handle this purpose. image quality is very good, and its AF is fast and accurate.

If this little zoom lens fits your particular needs well, why replace it? Between your DA 15mm LTD and your 70mm LTD it fits in well in terms of FL, although certainly being the weak part of the chain. Its reduced aperture range for low light situations, and other matters such as distortion, flare resistance and vignetting don't compare. The DA 70mm is far more tele than 40mm, therefore much easier to isolate subjects from background for a 3-D effect, and images will have a different perspective. I notice quite a difference in the exposure value in your comparative shots also. But if you are happy enough in your uses and needs with this little lens, why not just keep using it?

As per some test reviews, as well as my own experience with other Pentax models, I recommend for better JPEG performance, going into the Custom Image menus and implementing "Fine Sharpening" for both the "Bright" and the "Natural" settings. Then put the camera back to "Bright" for most applications after making this adjustment. The "Auto" Custom Image setting is to be avoided, as well as the "Green" mode on the mode dial, unless a friend who knows nothing about DSLR use is temporarily taking a few shots. For full automatic exposure, the "P" mode is fine, and allows adjustments on the fly via the Pentax Hyper System.
Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories 01-06-2020, 06:35 AM  
Thematic Post your Church images
Posted By timb64
Replies: 830
Views: 67,683
Next trip

St Mary Bucklesham




St Marys Newbourne



All Saints Hemley

Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories 01-02-2020, 12:28 AM  
Thematic What was your absolute last, final shot of 2019?
Posted By beachgardener
Replies: 49
Views: 1,407
A bit of surf action at the end of the year, this was one of the smaller waves, didn't really have a long enough lens, K-3 with 18-135 for walk around that day.

Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories 12-30-2019, 10:31 AM  
Thematic Post your Church images
Posted By timb64
Replies: 830
Views: 67,683
In an attempt to get fitter for a ski trip next month I am cycling to as many local churches as possible.

Here's today's crop

All Saints, Little Bealings



St Andrew, Hasketon




St Mary, Great Bealings



St Botolph, Culpho


Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 12-24-2019, 04:54 AM  
Why full frame isn't the best format to own
Posted By gatorguy
Replies: 307
Views: 10,677
Actually yes. Yes i do.

I just happened to be out on a couple of wildlife hikes over the past 5 weeks with a long-time Sony shooter who has now updated to the Sony A7R IV. My shots taken with my poor guys K-70 and DA*200 are generally better than anything he captured. Technique (and glass) counts more than the camera body.

Just about every recent DSLR is more than capable enough for quality shots. We took 'em when a 12MP digital camera was state-of-the-art, great digital photography didn't suddenly appear with the advent of 40MP+ sensors and mirrorless bodies. Worry more about how you take the images and less about what camera you used to take them. I'd bet most people never push their cameras to their fullest, not unlike having a car capable of 220mph to drive at 80 on the interstate. Who cares other than for bragging rights?

Geesh all this talk about "my camera is better/bigger/costs more than yours" is pretty silly. Your talents and skills and "photographer's eye" mixed with a pinch of mother luck: Major factor. Your lenses: Significant factor. Your camera body: Minor factor.
Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories 12-21-2019, 09:12 AM  
Thematic The SOOC Club
Posted By aslyfox
Replies: 158
Views: 6,189
I shoot JPEG

my SOOC photos are just the JPEG, no crop or pp of any type

and yes, as I understand it, the camera does its own processing depending on how you present it

_______________________________

Guam Kingfisher, Todiramphus cinnamominus



behind net of enclosure at the Sedgwick County Zoo

SOOC
Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories 12-17-2019, 04:19 AM  
Thematic Rhymes With Orange
Posted By savoche
Replies: 253
Views: 5,101
Sandy orange.

Sossusvlei by -savoche-, on Flickr
Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories 12-18-2019, 11:20 AM  
Thematic Rhymes With Orange
Posted By savoche
Replies: 253
Views: 5,101
Another sunset

Kalahari sunset by -savoche-, on Flickr
Forum: Photographic Technique 12-13-2019, 08:40 AM  
Well, I was put in my place.
Posted By pschlute
Replies: 163
Views: 9,252
if we told everybody it wouldn't be exclusive :lol:
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