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Forum: Pentax Film SLR Discussion 05-15-2014, 02:51 AM  
Expensive 2CR5? No problem..
Posted By weijen
Replies: 9
Views: 20,441
Here's a solution for those expensive 2CR5. In my part of the world, the battery costs more than an old film camera. There's a workaround though..

1. Here's a regular 2CR5




2. You see, a 2CR5 is really just 2 CR123As in series enclosed in a case.




3. Slide in the batteries. Note that if the label is +, then the + side of the battery goes in first. Likewise for the -.





4. Take a piece of aluminum foil and fold it up.





5. Place the foil onto the battery terminals to short them. Then stuff something into the empty space so the batteries have firm contact with the leads. I recommend an eraser.




6. It lives!




I don't have to mention how cheap CR123As are. However, take caution though. The CR123A batteries must be both of the same charge level, otherwise the stronger one will overheat. Overloaded lithium batteries are nasty. Your camera might go Ka-Boom instead of Ka-chak..:lol:
Forum: Pentax Film SLR Discussion 06-04-2014, 02:16 AM  
Should I bother with a winder for my Super Program?
Posted By weijen
Replies: 31
Views: 3,410
My winder arrived today. Costed me $10 shipped. When I brought it back on a flight, it showed up looking very much like a gun on my luggage scan. The officer had to scan my bag a few times to be sure. I told her it's a camera accssory and we laughed it off. It was really funny. Next time I'll be sure to take it out and put it on the tray. Haha!
Forum: Pentax Film SLR Discussion 03-30-2015, 12:17 AM  
AE lock
Posted By weijen
Replies: 31
Views: 4,798
I feel the AE lock is a whole lot more convenient than dialing in EV compensations. In most classic cameras like the Super Program which use, the EV dial is cumbersome at best. Actually the P30T performed much better with the AE lock when deciding between the shadows or the highlight. Just point, lock, and shoot!

The principles of using AE-L is ahem.. actually not so different from going fully M.
Forum: Maintenance and Repair Articles 07-09-2014, 07:48 PM  
Repairing an erratic Sigma EF500 DG ST
Posted By weijen
Replies: 6
Views: 4,998
My Sigma EF500 DG ST started misbehaving on the eve of my vacation, forcing me to leave it at home. I had to rely on my pop-up flash for fill daylight fill instead. Needless to say, I got many less than ideal photos. :mad:

Anyway, the flash charges up but only seem to fire at 50mm zoom. This is the hallmark of a broken wire in the zoom head and by forums go, it's very fixable.

1. The first thing to do is to remove the rubber covers at the sides. Just pry them open. They're attached with double-side tape




2. Next, remove the screws (red) and lift up the cover. The screws securing the back piece of the head (green arrows) need not be unscrewed. More on this in step 3.



3. Ok, here's what went wrong. See the white wire floating? That's the signal wire. It's supposed to be connected to the red relay. In my case, the wire happens to touch the relay contact at only 50mm. At this point, please be careful with the tilt click stop mechanism (circled in yellow). DO NOT move the zoom head's tilt position. The spring and stopper will fly out and they're quite a bitch to put back in place. In fact I spent more time to putting these bastards back in place than actually fixing the broken connection.

OPTIONAL - If you're like me and hate the locking-push-to-release tilt head, now is a good time to do some modifications. To do that, remove the remaining screws on th axis and remove the back panel of the zoom head (cyan-1). Next, remove the "push" button (cyan-2). Again, be careful. A small spring will come shooting at you. Remove the spring and reinstall the button. Now the tilt will not lock at 0 and 90 degrees.



4. Here's a closer view of the broken connection


5. Here's the wire resoldered. It works like normal after the repair.


Notes:
1. The symptoms of a broken wire in the flash head are:
- Flash turns on, charges and zoom but refuse to fire. Instead, you only get the sound of the relay clicking.
- Flash sometimes fire, but is erratic.


2. In my case, I did not have to discharge the capacitor. The components in the flash head are fairly isolated from the high voltage of the capacitor. As long as you know what you're doing and keep your hands off the metal parts, it should be fine. Still, it's a good idea to discharge the capacitor.
Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 05-16-2014, 10:51 PM  
It the Sigma EF-500 DG ST P-TTL only?
Posted By weijen
Replies: 2
Views: 889
That's a good sign. I guess I'll take the plunge and bid for it!

I'll take this thread to the film camera section. I guess it's more relevant there. I think this section is meant for flash techniques.
Forum: Pentax Film SLR Discussion 05-14-2014, 08:51 PM  
Which budget AF SLR would you recommend?
Posted By weijen
Replies: 42
Views: 3,519
One of the factor to consider is the lens support. You might want to consider the Z-20 as well. It's one of the few bodies can meter with all lenses. K, F, DA no problem. It's got all the fancy hyper modes too. The only downside is that the pentamirror is not that great. Not an issue though if you just use autofocus lenses most of the time.

Check this site. Choose the camera that gives M, Av, P, Tv exposure control and you're good to go!

The Pentax Camera Lens Compatibility Chart
Forum: Pentax Q 08-13-2013, 05:34 AM  
Small Flashes for the Q/Q10/Q7
Posted By weijen
Replies: 49
Views: 9,422
I use a Pentax AF160SA. It looks great on the Q! I get a lot of stares when I use the setup. It's cheap and you really could consider one.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 07-11-2012, 05:53 PM  
what's in the lens? How can I clean/fix it? F 35-70
Posted By weijen
Replies: 11
Views: 2,609
grahame, have you managed to open up the lens? I could open up the front element group of mine with no difficulty.

By the way, when you take apart the front element, you will find it is a group of glass in one assembly. To open up the package, hold it at the side and insert the caliper in same slots you use to loosen it from the mount. You can remove the front most glass. Once the front glass is off, turn it upside down and tap a little and the middle piece will come off. However, if the stain is on the rear side of the front piece, or on front side of the middle piece, do not take it off. You'll introduce dust when assembling back.

To clean, a cotton bud with some alcohol followed by a buff with lens tissue is pretty sufficient.

The front element of this lens is very easy to deal with. You certainly do not need to bring it to China.:D
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