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Forum: General Photography 2 Days Ago  
Are these striations actually on the feathers?
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 15
Views: 840
Thanks for the info, Pete.

I'm waiting for a day when the sun is shining brightly when this kookaburra visits, so I can see the striations again. Here's a 100% crop (1570x1303) from this morning:
(If using Chrome, to see this at 100%, first open the image in a new tab, and then click on it.)

Pentax K-3 + DA* 60-250 @ 250mm FL. 1/200s (handheld with IBIS), f/6.3, ISO800 + 0.3 Stop boost in PP. AA Filter Simulator set to a strength of "1".




Dan.
Forum: General Photography 3 Days Ago  
Are these striations actually on the feathers?
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 15
Views: 840
Here's a shot I took yesterday. No striations were visible, but it was cloudy. I think I'll need full sunshine to be sure. AA filter Simulator set to "1". It's 4123x3216 so you can pan around it to inspect the detail. The head & body's good, but the tail's soft. IMHO, SilkyPix Developer Studio Pro 6 has done a decent job here in the balancing act between maintaining detail & controlling noise.


Pentax K-3 + DA* 60-250 @ 250mm FL. 1/125s (handheld with IBIS), f/6.3, ISO400 + 1/2 Stop boost in PP.



I was sitting down on the concrete slab, but if I'd laid down I would of got a more pleasing background.


Dan.
Forum: General Photography 4 Days Ago  
Are these striations actually on the feathers?
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 15
Views: 840
I posed this question in the Photography sub-forum of Whirlpool Broadband News. Tekno provided this link which discusses hidden patterns caused by biochemical changes which requires x-ray analysis to be seen. But they look like the patterns I saw at "B".

Hidden feather patterns tell the story of birds

That article references another article that discusses visible bars:

Growth Bars in Feathers on JSTOR

Quoting from p.486:

"These bars are most commonly seen in the wing and tail feathers"

and

"The visibility of growth bars varies greatly among birds, from nothing to very marked"

see also p.314 Ptilochronology: Feather Growth Bars as Indicators of Nutritional Status on JSTOR

And if you do a search on Ptilochronology it brings up images that look like the pattern at "A" too.

Dan.
Forum: General Photography 4 Days Ago  
Are these striations actually on the feathers?
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 15
Views: 840
Alex, thinking on it a bit more, if these striations were moiré-related, they shouldn't be visible in the shot that was slightly OOF. As I understand it, for moiré to be visible you need a very sharp image. That's how the AA-filter emulator works: it slightly blurs the image by oscillating the sensor with a radus of either 0.5 or 1 pixel-pitch. But the OOF blurring looks a lot more than that in that particular image.

Dan.

---------- Post added 19-11-17 at 05:34 ----------



Any ornithologists in this forum? It would be interesting to know the growth rate of the feathers so I could try to work out the time-span between the stripe-inducing events.

Dan.
Forum: General Photography 4 Days Ago  
Are these striations actually on the feathers?
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 15
Views: 840
This is a wild bird, so I don't know.

What I've done is switch the K-3's AA filter emulator on. If the kookaburra comes again I'll see if I can get another side-on shot of this spot.

Dan.
Forum: General Photography 5 Days Ago  
Are these striations actually on the feathers?
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 15
Views: 840
BTW, two other heavily processed shots. I was feeding dog food to 2 of the 3 magpies that come to visit me a number of times each day, and this kookaburra decide to muscle in.

1/125s, f/5.6, ISO640 (it was early in the morning), 250mm FL.


1/320s, f/4, ISO800, 250mm FL.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Here's a short video clip of 2 kookaburras' on my back fence, shot with a Panasonic HC-V770 camcorder. I picked it up in a hurry so as not to miss this. I was shooting standing, unsupported. The excerpt starts at 11x and zooms to 16x, so while I have OIS activated, it was only partially successful. Unfortunately, the kookaburras here were only chuckling, not full-on belly laughing.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/yt0obk6irm8zd8o/Laughing%20Jackass.mp4


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Recently had a holiday at Cooroy Country Cottages.

COOROY COUNTRY COTTAGES

Here's an excerpt from a video of magpies & kookaburras eating dog food at the homestead. The proprietor feeds them after 4pm every day.

Taken with a Panasonic HC-V750. While I normally shoot using Full HD 60p 50MP MP4, on this trip I decided to use Full HD 60p 28Mbps AVCHD for a change.

The 1st clip was shot with AF, but this resulted in the focus always being on the palms in the rear. (It started on the palms without any birds - when the birds arrived, the focus didn't change to the foreground.) So for the 2nd clip, shown here, I switched to MF and focused on the rim of the feed bowl.

Also, I was recording 5.1 audio in the 1st clip. Since there was the noise of kids swimming behind the camera and a caged bird inside the house, I switched to Stereo mode with zooming mic in the 2nd clip.

It had been drizzling and it was overcast. This made the birds a little more hesitant to come feed, so I set the camera shooting on a tripod and walked some distance away. This was a bit of a pity as I should have come back and framed a little wider/higher.

Also, because of the late-afternoon, overcast conditions, I'm fairly sure I shot with backlight compensation.

As usual, I find the output, straight from my HC-V750, lacking in contrast. So I've used the NewBlue ST Video Tuneup plugin that comes with Vegas Pro 12 to give it a bit more punch. Original on Left; Processed on Right:




A funny thing happened. I was playing the OOF Clip 1, searching for the sound of a distant kookaburra "laugh" that I could mix in to the audio track of Clip 2 to provide a bit more atmosphere. I was playing the clip fairly loudly in my computer room here in Brisbane. One of the local magpies, which I'm feeding, was nearby. He got excited, bobbing his head, and ran along the top of the fence in front of my open window looking for the source of the new magpie calls he could hear.

https://www.facebook.com/dosdan/videos/1587938641244686/

Dan.
Forum: General Photography 5 Days Ago  
Are these striations actually on the feathers?
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 15
Views: 840
Photographed a Kookaburra on my back fence here in Brisbane. Some of the shots show striations on the feathers. Are these a photography/processing artefact or are they really there?

The processed shot. K-3 + DA* 60-250/F4 @ 250mm FL, 1/125s, f/5.6, ISO320:



At first I thought this might be some FPN. But look at two consecutive DNGs from the shoot.




The first is a bit OOF, but that's not important here. Compare Region "A" in both shots and then look a Region "A".
  1. The 1st raw shot was tilted 2.5˚ compared to the 2nd. To me, the striation also appear tilted in "A" in shot 1 compared to shot2.

  2. There appears to be a slight curve in the striations in A.

  3. The tilt in "B" is different from "A", and the banding frequency may be different too.


These 3 points make me think it's not some harmonically-related FPN.


Perhaps it's a demosaicing artefact in the raw developer?

I normally use Silkypix Developer Studio v6. So I tried RawRherapee 5.2 using the AMaZE demosaic method. The arefacts were still visible. In RT you can switch off demosaicing completely. I did this, but it's still there:



So I don't think it's developer-related.


Perhaps it's an artefact from aliasing?
The K-3 has no AA filter and I did not have the pixel-oscillating option turned on. There is aliasing visible at 100% on the feathers - From Silkypix:




RT's AMaZe probably handles this aliasing better. I've not done any extra processing in Paintshop Pro X7, so the image will look different:



But I would have thought that striations, if due to aliasing, would be a lot finer/narrower than is visible here.


So, what do you think is going on?


The 29MB DNG of the 2nd, sharper shot is available for download here if you want to examine it further:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/epdoehcjw9aotsa/K3_62311.DNG


Dan.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 10-18-2017, 04:04 AM  
Manual focus lenses with infinity focus issues - anyone else encountering them?
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 8
Views: 498
I'm not using a flange-type M42 adaptor that adds extra thickness between the lens and the camera body. I'm using the flush-type adaptor which adds no extra thickness.

Dan.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 10-17-2017, 10:46 PM  
Manual focus lenses with infinity focus issues - anyone else encountering them?
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 8
Views: 498
I've got a Super Takumar 50/F1.4 that won't focus at infinity. I mainly use it for portraits so it's not an issue.

Dan.
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 02-19-2017, 02:59 AM  
image sharpness 6MP vs 24MP
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 15
Views: 1,858
While I've got a K-3, K5 & K20D, I think two of favourite flower shots may be from my K100D Super. I'm a tech head and my head's in full agreement with your statement. But there's a emotional component to photography. These two shots were early in my DSLR ownership. One of them is with a relatively low-end zoom lens.It may be luck, but that's the way it's turned out for me. Others may not think much of these two shots but they speak to me and I have them as prints on my wall. Frankly, more DR and sharpness probably wouldn't increase my appreciation of them. It's not the detail that pleases me in these shots, it's the response they invoke in me.

Laurel Bank Park, Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia, on 21 Sept 2008 during the annual Carnival of Flowers. This was shot with a Pentax K100D Super, a 6MP camera, with a cheap, old Pentax-A 70-200/F4 (the non-SMC version). This manual-focus zoom lens has low contrast but I've managed to correct some of this in development. The lens exhibits obvious bokeh fringing: the reddish-yellow edges of the top-right OOF stem.

The flower was situated deep within a flower bank. I used 200mm FL to get to it. I love the light & shade and the shape of the green stems – it reminds me of a shape I saw in a Hieronymus Bosch painting.

1/500s, f/6.7, ISO400, 200mm FL.





Pentax K100D Super + SMC Pentax-M 50/F1.7 (an old manual-focus, manual-exposure lens I got cheap).

1/250s, ISO200, unknown f-stop.




BTW, I saw an obvious improvement in sharpness in sports shots, when I moved from a K5 (16MP) to a K-3 (24MP, no AA filter). I like this, and I can crop more, but sharpness per se is a matter of "horses for courses": many shots look better when you increase the sharpness of the captured details, but not all.

Dan.
Forum: Pentax K-3 02-05-2017, 06:01 PM  
Sports Images with the K-3
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 365
Views: 78,770
IMHO, direct flash shots often look somewhat washed-out and usually improve with more contrast. Here's the shot with some more contrast and I dropped the brightness a bit too. Done in XnView.



Dan.
Forum: Photographic Technique 01-21-2017, 03:42 PM  
Sports photography - single images
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 299
Views: 47,394
K3 with a FA 50/F1.7

1/2500s, f/2.8, ISO100.


Framing is difficult with someone running towards you when you're using a 50mm FL. 100mm would have been better.




I normally wouldn't crop like this, but I wanted to include more of the sky to make it more colourful, and I wanted to include the full shadow of the runner.


Dan.
Forum: Photographic Technique 01-21-2017, 02:25 PM  
Sports photography - single images
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 299
Views: 47,394
Futsal is fast too but, with the small court size and closeness of the spectators to the court, 100mm FL is usually too much. With a 60-250/F4 or a 70-200/F2.8, most of the time you're using the WA end. I reckon a 28-75mm/F2.8 zoom would be the best bet for this particular sport.

Dan.
Forum: Photographic Technique 01-21-2017, 01:32 PM  
Sports photography - single images
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 299
Views: 47,394
I've got a FA 100/F2.8 Macro, but I've not used it for sports. I've been tempted, but I think the fine helicoil thread in a macro lens would be too slow for action AF. I think it would work best in semi-static stuff like High Jump. I've always wanted to use a 100mm prime in 800m & 1500m races when the photographer is inside the track and shooting the runners as they're coming down the straight.

Dan.
Forum: Photographic Technique 12-02-2016, 09:33 PM  
Sports photography - single images
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 299
Views: 47,394
irek83, the composition of your mountain bike photo and the equipment used to shoot it reminds me of an AF test I performed with my K-3, on 2nd Jan 2014, soon after I bought this camera. My son was into athletics, so late in the afternoon we went down to the sports ground of our local school and I shot some Long Jump with the K-3 and a Sigma 70-200/F2.8 HSM II. Since it was late, we got straight into it before the light level dropped too low.

1/1000s, f/3.2, ISO200 128mm FL


Here is a 100% crop


I did not apply much sharpening as I did not want the jumper's outline to look too "digital".



Here is a shot of a run-up before reaching the line and leaping off. I've applied more sharpening and played with the contrast levels a bit.

1/1250s, f/2.8, ISO160, 105mm FL





Here is a landing shot. It was late in the afternoon and we must have entered the "Golden Hour". The sand, as shot in this shot, was quite yellow.

1/1250s, f/2.8, ISO125, 105mm FL



I adjusted the WB when I developed the raw to match my recollection of what colour this sand normally has.



Which of these two versions is more "correct" probably comes down to taste.



I've shot a lot of week-end and competitive athletics with the K5 & K-3, using both a Pentax DA* 60-250/F4 & the Sigma 70-200/F2.8 HSM II. I found with Long Jump that it was hard to get all the shots in a jump sequence in focus. Depending on how close I was to the edge of the sandpit and what FL I used, the change in closing distance over time when the jumper was in the air and just before they landed was the most likely time for shots in the burst to go OOF. I'd say this is caused by the limitation in how fast these general-purpose lenses can make big focusing adjustments. Strangely, the landing itself was more likely to be in focus, probably because the jumper's forward speed drops dramatically soon after touching the sand, and the AF has a little extra time to get the final shot(s) of the burst back into focus.

Dan.
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 11-23-2016, 12:59 PM  
The Squirrel Mafia's RawTherapee thread. Now with 50% more excellence & win!
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 420
Views: 40,451
Here is a link to my post on RT.

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/58-troubleshooting-beginner-help/333849-r...ml#post3827574

It was in response to a new user not seeing the effect of NR due to not viewing at 100%+. It had already been mentioned in the thread about these modules having "1:1" in their title bar, so I didn't bother mentioning it again in my description.

A fuller description for a novice would include loading, selecting a profile, basics like cropping/resizing, queuing and saving.

Dan.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 11-15-2016, 03:40 PM  
Rawtherepee noise reduction Help
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 5
Views: 645
I don't use RT much because I'm a SilkyPix Pro 6 user. But the free RT has some interesting features. Here is a quick guide to part of the interface. I'll use "Sharpening" as its effect is more obvious than NR.



Each module can be minimised/reopened by clicking on its title e.g "Sharpening". Here I've miminised all the other modules on the Detail section.

A module is activated/deactivated by clicking on the power button icon to the left of its title. This allows you to compare the effect of the enhancement. In this Detail section, only Sharpening is showing as active, but I've also activated Vibrance in the Colour section.

I've fitted the image to the screen by clicking on the 3rd magnifying glass at the bottom (hotkey "F").

The "14%" means than that, at the current zoom level, 100 image pixels in length or height are mapped down to 14 screen pixels.

To the right of the 14% is the "Open new detail window" icon. The detail window defaults to 100% but you can zoom in/out in this window. You can also use the wheel on your mouse to zoom, but its action will depend on whether you've clicked on the detail window first to give it focus - otherwise you'll zoom the main image instead.

You can relocate the red marker showing the extent of the detail window by either dragging it directly, or by dragging within the detail window itself.

You can also open more than one detail window, but only the last one is highlighted on the main image. You click on the "x" to close each detail window.

The Sharpening amount defaults to 200% but you could drag it fully to the right to make the sharpening more obvious in the 100% (or more) zoomed detail window. (You can click on the curved arrow to the right of the bar to reset it back to 200%. Note: this is not an Undo. For example, if you first set 500%, and then 1000%, clicking on this arrow will not go back to 500%.)

Also, you could click on the "1:1" magnifying glass down the bottom (hotkey "Z") to zoom the main image instead to 100%. As long the zoom level is 100% or higher you'll see the effect of the sharpening.

You can drag the zoomed-in main image around to pan about.

In the portrait-orientated image in my screen-grab, I could can also drag the fitted main image to the LHS to allow more space on the RHS for detail windows. I'm not sure how many detail windows you could have open. (The "I" hotkey will toggle the display of the info.)

"L" and "Alt-L" hotkeys toggle the display of L (not currently visible) & R panels. "Shift-L" toggles a thumbnail panel at the top.

"Shift-B" toggles the screen into side-by-side view and shows you the Before/After effect of a module. Zooming & panning affect both sizes equally. If you have say Sharpening at 1000% and switch to the Vibrance module and fully ramp it up too, in Shift-B view, activating/deactivating the Vibrance module will only show the change of the Vibrance effect, not the Sharpening effect which is still being applied to both panels.

"R", "G", "B" hotkeys show B&W versions derived from each of these colour channels, as well as "V" (Luminosity) combining them to show a standard (0.299*R + 0.587*G + 0.114*B) B&W version.

Dan.
Forum: Pentax K-3 11-01-2016, 02:00 PM  
Sports Images with the K-3
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 365
Views: 78,770
I missed the focus on this save, but I've managed to improve it using FocusMagic applied with selective masking from ReMask 5. When recovering shots like this taken at f/2.8, it's impossible to get a great result, but it can still be usable.

K-3 + Sigma 70-200/F2.8 II. 1/3200, f/2.8, ISO100.






Dan.
Forum: Pentax K-3 11-01-2016, 03:21 AM  
Sports Images with the K-3
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 365
Views: 78,770
20160228 - A sequence of K-3 shots. DA* 60-250/F4. 1/1600, f/6.3, ISO200.

This was a "friendly" pre-season U14 match. My son is the goalie.
















Dan.
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 09-28-2016, 06:34 PM  
Alternative to the appalling SilkyPix for pixel-shift
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 31
Views: 2,805
Lack of adjustment of the default demosaic sharpness is probably not that much of a limitation for most users. It will depend on what other features are "not available".

Have you tried the free 30-day full functioning trial version of Silkypix Developer Studio Pro 7? 30 days should be sufficient for you to adjust to its interface (much different to DCU). And determine how well it handles your pixel-shift shots.

I've used SP Pro v4, v5, v6 for many years to handle Pentax shots (K100D Super, K20D, K-5, K-3, Q, K-01). I can go through 1000-2000 raw soccer shots from a match and work efficiently. The dodging in the Pro version is very useful.

Dan.
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 09-06-2016, 10:31 PM  
Disabling ads in Paintshop Pro
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 0
Views: 505
This is not a hack, but judging by the amount of bitching about "ads" in PSP I've seen, the knowledge isn't well-known:

In PSP X4 & X5:
  1. Open up PaintShop Pro

  2. Click on the Corel Guide.

  3. Click on the Product Information and Preferences icon to the right of the Messages tab

  4. Click on Message Preferences

  5. Uncheck Keep me informed with the latest product related messages

  6. Click OK


This appears to have changed in PSP X7 (the version I'm currently using). In X7 it's:
  1. Open PSP

  2. Click on Help

  3. Click on Message Preferences

  4. Uncheck Keep me informed with the latest product related messages

  5. Click OK

Dan.
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 06-11-2016, 03:32 AM  
Deconvolution for correcting slightly missed focus & motion blur
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 4
Views: 868
Another example. A crop from a 2014 image showing a problem area.

K-3 +DA 60-250/F4 @ 250mm FL. 1/1000s, f/7.1, ISO320.

Even at 1/1000s, this fast moving soccer ball suffers from slight motion blur. Here is the FocusMagic screen in "Fix Motion Blur" mode:



You can see that the motion-corrected preview area is sharper, but also noisier.

Here is the original compared to the altered version:





The original is straight from Silkypix with some USM applied. Unfortunately, it appears the focal plane is the net, not the goalie or the ball. So the USM just emphasises the net.

What I did was exported an unsharpened developed 16-bit TIF from Sikypix to PSP, and there created a 5-layer stack:

  1. Ball-layer on top

  2. Goalie (top)

  3. Goalie (bottom)

  4. Foreground players

  5. Original image on the bottom

Next I used FM to apply the motion correction using the parameters shown in the screen-grab. There is no "Detect" button in motion-correction mode, but the direction and distance are usually relatively easy to find. I always mask using Topaz Labs Remark 5 after the FM processing, rather than before. Doing it in this order helps Remask 5 to cut off any external haloing.

The goalie layer needed a different FM radius for the head/hands/chest/pants (radius of 4) compared to the legs/boots (radius of 6). This sometimes happens. I duplicated this layer, applied different radii to the two goalie layers and then masked to get separate top and bottom parts of the goalie.

I then merged the 2 goalie layers and the ball layer, and used Detail 3 to give them a medium sharpening.

The two foreground players. I was going to leave them unprocessed, but I decided that I preferred it they were partially sharpened, but not too much, so as not to distract from the goalie and the ball. So I used USM, Radius=3 Strength=75%. I marked around the players down to a horizontal line formed across the image by the base of the net. So only these two players and the grass in front of the net were sharpened.

I blurred the original image layer with a Gaussian Blur, Radius=3, to de-emphasise the netting and the background. Any higher blur radius than 3 made the goalie seem too isolated from the background.

In retrospect, the transition between the sharpened grass and the bottom of the blurred net is too abrupt. I would have been better here feathering the horizontal portion of the foreground layer mask.

Finally, I merged all layers, resized down and then applied a small USM polishing (Radius=0.6, Strength=50%) to compensate for the downsizing.

Dan.
Forum: Pentax K-5 06-10-2016, 11:47 PM  
K-5 for sports-photography
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 1,739
Views: 288,546
These two raw back-lit shots from 2013 were taken on a red tartan track. No matter how I tried I could not achieve a satisfactory WB in PP. So I've decided to give them the B&W treatment with a pseudo-HDR look in Silkypix Developer Studio Pro 6 + PSP X7 with the FocusMagic & Topaz Labs Detail 3 plugins.

K-5 + DA* 60-250/F4 @ 80mm FL, 1/1000s, f/6.3, ISO160.

Normally, I prefer to shoot from the front and with the sun behind me, but here I was limited in where I could stand. I think I prefer the stance in the 2nd shot, taken either 4 or 6 paces after the 1st shot.








Dan.
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 06-10-2016, 08:22 PM  
Deconvolution for correcting slightly missed focus & motion blur
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 4
Views: 868
I've been shooting junior soccer for 7 years in stills, and this year in video, as well as a number of years of shooting junior athletics. I've found the deconvolution in FocusMagic useful for correcting slightly missed focus or motion blur issues. I've also looked at Topaz Labs InFocus and RawTherapee RL Deconvolution sharpening. For the work I do, FM is the simplest way to get a slightly OOF image looking better. It also offers motion-blur correction which is relatively easy to use and can produce impressive results.

This 2010 K20D + 55-300 @300mm FL cropped image (8.5% of the original 14.6MP frame) of a soccer goalie in action is out-of-focus and, due to a relatively low 1/640s shutter speed (semi-overcast), has motion blur on the ball. I wanted to keep it, but didn't know if I'd be able to fix it sufficiently.




Focus Magic suggested a 7px radius choice which works well for the player, but this over-corrects the foreground grass and does not sufficiently clear up the writing on the ball.




I ended up applying FM 4 times:


1. Duplicated original image layer in Paintshop Prox X4 and applied FM Fix Motion Blur, 16px blur distance & 10° blur direction.

2. Applied FM Fix Focus 1px to slightly sharpen up the ball. Masked this layer so that only the ball remained.

3. Duplicate original image layer and applied FM Fix Focus, radius 7px, to sharpen the goalie. Masked this to just him.

4. It does not look natural to have a (now) sharp player standing on unsharpened grass, but I did not want an overcompensated foreground. So I created another copy of the original image layer and applied FM Fix Focus, radius 4px, to it. This gave a foreground that was acceptable and the grass around his feet looked better integrated. I masked this sharpened near-region to show only from the bottom of the image up to just under the bottom of the netting and also included the white goal bar on the right.

I also decided I wanted to de-emphasise the red netting. So the rest of the background received a Gaussian Blur of 4px.

Then I collapsed all layers, applied Clarity and Local Tone Mapping and the Topaz Labs Detail 3 plugin. Since 7px is a big adjustment for a relatively small image, (due to the significant cropping), I've applied a 2-3px softening brush along some of the edges to conceal processing artefacts.





Dan.
Forum: Pentax Price Watch 05-13-2016, 11:40 PM  
64Gb Extreme Pro SD 2-pack for $64.95
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 20
Views: 1,197
If B&H won't ship Sandisk to Oz, PNY will ship their cards. I've bought three times now, from PNY on Amazon. Shipping to Oz is reasonable.

Search Amazon for PNY Elite Performance 64 GB High Speed SDXC Class 10 UHS-I, U3 up to 95 MB/Sec Flash Card (P-SDX64U395-GE)

Prices in USD:
64GB $22.99 + $5.08 Shipping & Import Fees Deposit to Australia
128GB: $44.83 + $5.05 Shipping & Import Fees Deposit to Australia

This card writes at approx 60MBps, but a lot of cameras won't take advantage of the Sandisk Extreme's Pro's faster write speed. Here's my test results

I've used h2testw for years. It's a very small utility from a German tech magazine, but there's an English language radio button on it. Very simple. Select your USB stick or SD card drive letter. It offers to fill it up and then to verify it. This is to prove that the capacity stated in the card's FAT is not bogus. You can instead choose a different fill amount if you want to do it faster e.g. changing formatting parameters and checking their effect on Write and Read speed. It writes separate 1GB (230bytes) gibberish files, so caching will not alter the results. But I presumed these files are CRCed as it can tell, when reading them back, if they're valid.

http://www.heise.de/download/h2testw.html

The speed will depend on the speed on your ext. USB3 card reader. I get a W/R of 61.1/82.4 Mbytes/sec with a PNY Elite Performance 64GB UHS-1. (Note that the "MB" reported by this utility is 220 bytes, not 106 bytes, so the values are 4.9% lower than what the storage industry uses.)

I've also got two Sandisk Extreme Pro 64GB UHS-1 cards ("95Mbps"). They give a W/R of 81.7/83.7 Mbytes/sec.

However with a fast USBstick direct into the PC's USB3 socket I've seen a read speed of over 90Mpbs. So I expect that the no-name USB3 card reader is the limiting factor.

Dan.
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