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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 2 Hours Ago  
K3II with dead display
Posted By photogem
Replies: 9
Views: 718
Could well be that it isn't the display itself but the displaydriver. Sits on the mainboard, i.e. new mainboard needed.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 3 Hours Ago  
K-x main switch
Posted By photogem
Replies: 4
Views: 245
Next time you do this (could be sooner than you wish for) don't use contact-cleaner.
Those tiny contact-brushes and the surface they slide on have an ultrathin golden layer.
Normal contact-spray cleans dirt away but attacks over longer time the surface and leads to worse problems.

We had this in High-End-Audio with high quality volume-potentiometers, switches etc. and made sure, never to use contact-cleaner.
So you best use a earstick and isoprop. alcool.

I wrote in more detail HERE
Missed your post, read it only today.
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50 8 Hours Ago  
A LITTLE BIT OF HISTORY: Development of the solenoid in Pentax cameras
Posted By photogem
Replies: 16
Views: 3,681
*istD has 2 solenoids, one in the flash-circuit, one for aperture/diaphragm-control
*istDS and DS2 (as well as Samsung GX1s) have only 1 solenoid (Aperture)
*istDL/2 (Samsung GX1L) have again 2 solenoids

1 solenoid to be found in K10D, K20D (Samsung GX10/20) as well (Aperture)

2 solenoids to be found in:
K100D, K110D, K200D, Km(K2000), Kx, Kr (but in EU and Switzerland most of those have already the green solenoid in the flash-circuit!)

1 green solenoid to be found in:

modified better green solenoid found in:
K50/K-S1/K-S2 from December 2015 onwards
Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2 9 Hours Ago  
Getting aperture control block on my K-S2 :(
Posted By photogem
Replies: 163
Views: 18,504
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 1 Day Ago  
Repair K-50 vs new one
Posted By photogem
Replies: 30
Views: 1,550
Well, he got it for around US$ 400, if we take $100 off for the DA35.
What a deal/steal!
Forum: Pentax K-70 1 Day Ago  
Sticky: Tutorial/Repair Pentax K-70 with aperture-problem: Exchange solenoid
Posted By photogem
Replies: 37
Views: 2,648
Well done.
I would check the other lenses!
Soldering: With a very thin tip I never touched the plastic. The ones I have (3) are really thin and sharp like a pencil.
Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2 1 Day Ago  
Getting aperture control block on my K-S2 :(
Posted By photogem
Replies: 163
Views: 18,504
Check as described here with the primes:
How to detect aperture block failure on Pentax K-S1 (and K-S2) -
Which zooms are those?
The DA55-300PLM would still work fine because it doesn't need the solenoid.
Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2 4 Days Ago  
Dark frames or dark expositure problems in KS2, K30, K50, etc.
Posted By photogem
Replies: 73
Views: 3,488
And you took photos to document the process, I mean this kind of work without step-by-step photos is impossible to achieve?
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 4 Days Ago  
Using a sensor cleaning kit on the mirror and focussing screen
Posted By photogem
Replies: 36
Views: 926
There are several aspects about dirt etc. inside a DSLR body:

1. Sensor:
This affects the photos and thus is worth dealing with. The sensor is protected with glass, which is very hard and yet one doesn't want to scratch it nor have any streaks from wet-cleaning inside.

My approach:
a) Blower ... this can work with dust but at times it just 'blows' the dust around or deeper inside the body!
b) Pentax stick (Not made by Pentax, there are many around, the Pentax gel-stick is redish) Often works but sometimes I need 2 or 3 goes
c) wet cleaning: I use only highest percentage Isopropyl Alcohol and then purified water, I have never ever done any harm to sensors

2. AF sensors under the mirror: Here dust particles and particular lint of fluff can hinder the AF-Sensors to work proberly, just take them carefully off. This is easy and well worth it

3. Focusing Screen: Well... in all Pentax DSLR bodies those are replaceable. Swapping them with an original Pentax such as the great ML-60 which I use in my KP and had it in my K3, K5IIs etc. is easy to exchange, no shims needed
because it has exactly the same thickness and size than the original MF-60 used in all Pentax APS-C bodies since the K7/K5/K30.

More difficult to exchange in the smaller bodies such as K100D/200D/Km/Kx etc but possible.

Shims might be necessary for any other brands such as the great Katz-Eye (no longer in business, but they were the best) or Focusing-Screen from Taiwan.

Dust or dirt on the focusing screen:
a) Blower (often works for dust on the bottom side but of course not on the topside!)
b) Don't be shocked, but the most simple method if one knows how to take the screen in and out and feels comfortable:
- You take it out with any tweezers (metal is fine if you know how to hold it on this little nose which is there for holding it).
- Now you have a vacuum-cleaner ready, just the hose (I am not kidding)
- You hold the focusing-screen between thumb and indexfinger but you make sure you NEVER EVER touch it on the bottom or top-side (because it is made out of plastic and very sensitive to the slightest touch and particular to the natural oil of the skin! But washing your hands won't do it!
- Your grip must be firm/tight and if you are uneasy, better don't go ahead. But... it is easy and then zero danger:
- Switch on your vacuum-cleaner and hold the screen (tight and firm) into the stream. V.Cleaner off and you grap the screen on the nose again with your tweezers.
- Install the screen back as it should be and that was it.
Antistatic modification for a vacuum-cleaner: Because ESD vacuumcleaners are pretty expensive, there is a simple way explained HERE. I have done is similar but the wire which goes inside of the front of the hose is made of a much finer multistrand-cable. Because I don't use it on my PC which would allow for an earth-clip I have it connect to earth of any mains socket. Of course one should know for 100% which one of the three connectors is earth, you don't want 120/240 Volts AC on this antistatic wire! So only for those who know exactly what they are doing!

c) Canned air: I have tried it once and damaged the screen! The canned air was too cold! The surface changed. So I never tried again.

I would not use canned air for cleaning a sensor or inside a camera. No way.

Mirror + Submirror:
Dust and dirt won't show in the photos, only through the optical viewfinder!
Because the mirror and submirror and not only coated to let light partially go though but also because the angles have to be very exact it is best to stay away from it!
a)Blower: Can work but with the danger to blow dust or fluff deeper into the body
b)There are special antistatic vacuum-cleaners (They suck and are expensive! There are also cheap antistatic vacuum-blowers, not recommended!)
Only for professionals.

Back to the focusing-screen: I have tried cleaning them with special soap, it kind of worked but I was never happy with it.
Now I read gatorguy's post #15 and next time I come across a dirty f.screen which I cannot clean the way I described I shall try this!
Sounds promising!
I just wonder if this method would really work with a Katzeye or Focusing-Screen split-image screen? Those are much more sensitive.
Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2 4 Days Ago  
Dark frames or dark expositure problems in KS2, K30, K50, etc.
Posted By photogem
Replies: 73
Views: 3,488
you did yet not answer this question:


This question is very simple to answer.

Yes or No
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50 5 Days Ago  
K-30 internal battery / capacitor replacement for clock
Posted By photogem
Replies: 19
Views: 3,628
I'm afraid the K-50 is assembled again.

But as you can see the MS414 is pretty small.
But I know that the MS612 is fine!
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50 5 Days Ago  
K-30 internal battery / capacitor replacement for clock
Posted By photogem
Replies: 19
Views: 3,628
Well, here photos of the original backup battery in a Pentax K-50.
Same one I found in the K-30.

Should I ever come across the ELNA supercap, then of course I will mention this but until now it was always the Seiko 414.

I know that sometimes parts can differ, such as that in the European Union the solenoids of K100/200D and Kx/Km/Kr were already green made in China versions but only in the flash circuity, not for the aperture!

And as well almost all SLR MZ/XZ series solenoids I came across had different values to the DSLR solenoids.

So it might well be so with the backup batterie. So best to check and then buy accordingly.
Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2 5 Days Ago  
Dark frames or dark expositure problems in KS2, K30, K50, etc.
Posted By photogem
Replies: 73
Views: 3,488
Ah... but you always gave the impression that you did:

How do you know that the solenoid of a floppy-disk is identical, if you never touched (mechanically nor electrically) the solenoid of your K-S2?
Nor having a Japan-Solenoid from a Pentax-DSLR-body in your possession?
Just testing the:

is not enough, particular because the Japan-Solenoid is very different in movement. If you once had the Japan solenoid just in your hands and you just move the plunger in and out and wobble it left and right and then do the same with your green Chinasolenoid you would notice a strong obvious difference! It is that obvious! But this means you'd have to unsolder your K-S2 solenoid of course.
That you haven't done so shows already that the way you approached this is not based on real research!
Possibly because like some you don't feel comfortable of soldering, fine, but then also accept that it stops there!

You can only test those things if you have the complete original diaphragm-control-unit at hand connected to an identical powersupply as in your K-S2. And it has to be the same green China Solenoid exactly as in your K-S2. Not any green China-Solenoid because they differ as I had explained often before: Date of manufacture + there are OEM solenoids offered on ebay and Ali-express and others: Those do fit but differ mechanically.

This is wrong, it is not identical! It is based on the same principal but up to the K100D/K200D it is not the same!

Please show me were there is anything mentioned about lubrification! I have many service-manuals including those for most *ist-bodies and have not stumbled across any mentioning of lubrification.

I have my daubts about this. The way you presented you message #47 May 13th. in the thread I had started,

i.e.the manual for solenoid replacement K-S2

you gave this message of yours the heading:
"Let's end the white solenoid myth to solve the problem of dark photos".

It was deleted and you posted it in the correct thread (first again with a heading not true to facts).

Now you admit that you didn't even do all this research with the K-S2 solenoid but a CD-Rom solenoid.

This is very strange! Why not mention this before? You harm yourself with this because it adds to what I perceived as:

O.k.: Invented facts?

But you did guess! You don't have the Japan solenoid from a Pentax camera.

I did a lot of tests with different solenoids. I have all those solenoids here and so there was no need to invent things as you did.

Which shows again that modifying the plunger does not lead to any success!

With "disarm the diaphragm control" you mean that you disassembled the diaphragm-control-unit out of your K-S2?
And it is now that you tell us you undertook such immense effort? You tell us such a lot but this most important part you hide?

Also: What do you mean with switch brushes?
Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2 6 Days Ago  
Dark frames or dark expositure problems in KS2, K30, K50, etc.
Posted By photogem
Replies: 73
Views: 3,488
They will replace it with the same solenoid, i.e. the one you have inside your K70.

Also they should very well know that it starts some times and then gets worse.
It is a known problem.

Just keep an eye on it and if the dark photos return more often, you know how to check it:
1. Av Mode and wide open: Photo should be dark
2. Av Mode and full closed: Photo should be fine
As you have the old *ist, nothing can go wrong if you do it right and you have peace and quiet concerning the function of the solenoid.
Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2 6 Days Ago  
Dark frames or dark expositure problems in KS2, K30, K50, etc.
Posted By photogem
Replies: 73
Views: 3,488
Not temporarily, the white Japan solenoid never ever failed in any of those:

Samsung GX1
Samsung GX1s
Samsung GX1L
Samsung GX10
Samsung GX20
K-m (2000)

Plus, if correctly used, it never failed when replaced against the green Chinasolenoid in:
K-30, K-50, K-500, K-S1, K-S2, K-70

This is statistics and as much as S. Gonzales tries to make the opposite true and even speaks about the myth of the white solenoid:
S. Gonzales never ever had a white Japan-Solenoid in his hands, nor other green solenoids, just the one single unit from his K-S2.
So his research concering the white Japan-Solenoid is only based on guessing, which is .... well.... zero evidence.
His first approaches were research based on 'doing'/'trying' and well worth it!
But then this didn't work.
So now he makes claims about something he doesn't even know.
With all due respect, but to me this reminds me very strongly what these days is named "fake news"
Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2 05-18-2020, 03:19 AM  
Dark frames or dark expositure problems in KS2, K30, K50, etc.
Posted By photogem
Replies: 73
Views: 3,488
All K-70's have improved made in China green solenoid, they all were manufactured past Dec.2015.
S. Gonzeles K-S2 has the older much more failing solenoid inside his K-S2 which was manufactured February 7th 2015!

There is no easy way other than opening your K-70 according to the tutorial but due to the fact that you have the 3 years warranty
"for the time being" (i.e. until the warranty is off) you are best off to send your camera for repair.

So if you still have your K-50 with that failure, you can do the tests there to compare.

That's how it is. Of course it has nothing to do with the powersupply, that is a myth! The reasons have been explained many times.
One has to have a made in Japan solenoid in one's hands and just "wobble a bit around" the plunger in the body and then do the same
with the green China solenoid to "sense or feel" the difference. And then one pulls on the plunger and right there can tell the difference.
Nothing more is really necessary for those who undertake the DIY repair.

Of course you can wait but often just when one needs the camera the problem gets firm.
So best to do it when you know your camera isn't in use much anyway.
And then you have another 1 year warranty on the repair.
If then it fails again, you can apply DIY.
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50 05-14-2020, 07:25 PM  
Sticky: Dark exposure problems on K-30 or K-50? Discussion Thread
Posted By photogem
Replies: 354
Views: 62,263
Yes, the only correct solution. Just don't buy the cheap green China-version, it will fail again
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50 05-11-2020, 09:45 AM  
K-30 internal battery / capacitor replacement for clock
Posted By photogem
Replies: 19
Views: 3,628
Yes, the MS612T does fit, it is slightly larger than the MS414 which is the original and it is a lithium rechareable battery.

This one:

is a supercap and DOES NOT WORK!

I have tried it, the only thing that happens is that the D-LI109 battery drains very quickly!

I then installed the MS612 and all was fine
Forum: Pentax K-70 05-11-2020, 09:38 AM  
Don't know where this piece goes
Posted By photogem
Replies: 6
Views: 755
And: Camera working again fine?
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 05-11-2020, 06:43 AM  
Pentax KX - can't change aperture or
Posted By photogem
Replies: 8
Views: 420
We had this discussion before, so just a short answer:

I have plenty experience with all sorts of electronic cleaning sprays. So often used in Audio just for volume potentiometers, it NEVER EVER worked on long term!
I have studied the effects there plenty of times, even under the microscope.

It can work for a time but often does more damage than good over a longer period.

I had several K5's (which are WR) were people used even high quality electronic cleaning spray, even so called tuner-spray, the most sensitive... and it was the final exodus!

My strong recommendation: Stay away as far as possible from such solutions!
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 05-11-2020, 12:46 AM  
Pentax KX - can't change aperture or
Posted By photogem
Replies: 8
Views: 420
With "aperture dial" you mean the dial left to the AF/AE-L button, i.e. the thumbwheel?

If so, this is a common issue with the K-x, the seller should have noticed because this problem starts slowly and then gets worse, it is a contact problem and pretty easy to repair and it is so that even in M-Mode you can't dial prober values:
Tutorial E-Dial (Thumbwheel) Repair Pentax K-r, K-x and K-m (K2000) -

It can happen with low shuttercount because the thumbwheel isn't WR and with dirty/sweaty fingers dirt can enter pretty easy.
But also just moisture through humidity in the air, particular near the sea or lakes can cause it!

So let us know.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 05-10-2020, 11:22 AM  
Using external monitor in live view
Posted By photogem
Replies: 4
Views: 570
I used to have the Walimex Pro but sold it because I hardly used it.

The Lilliput A7s is supposed to be really good for money
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 05-10-2020, 12:38 AM  
Using external monitor in live view
Posted By photogem
Replies: 4
Views: 570
Via the "Micro HDMI-output" of your K3 to an external monitor.

There are special camera-field-monitors with focus-peaking.
You can install them also on the hot shoe mount.
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50 05-09-2020, 08:54 AM  
Sticky: Manual solenoid replacement Pentax K30 / Discharge flash-condenser / Solenoid choice
Posted By photogem
Replies: 71
Views: 15,341
The idea of glueing is good, for me myself not really important:

- First I always allow a tiny amound of my very fine soldering-tin to melt on both pins of the solenoid before I even install it
- Then the same to the bare end wires which were soldered off the green solenoid.

- I just hold one wire with tweezers to the first pin, very short tough with the pencil-tip of the soldering-iron, the tin melts, one just is absolutly still and maybe counts to 2 and the solder has hardened.
Same the other wire/pin

But this question arouse: How on earth to you glue with such a large tool?
Or do you just let the glue melt and transport it to the wires?
Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2 05-08-2020, 07:30 AM  
Getting aperture control block on my K-S2 :(
Posted By photogem
Replies: 163
Views: 18,504
Better first to study:
Why you shouldn't file/sand the plunger of the green Chinasolenoid but replace it -
and maybe this thread:
Solenoid problem return plus sound -

It is a very bad idea and has led in many cases to serious damage!
Not always, but if one understands the difference between the Japanese and the Chinese solenoid then it is clear!
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