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Showing results 1 to 14 of 14 Search: Liked Posts
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 08-23-2016, 01:21 PM  
Pentax Camera Users / Not Common?
Posted By Rondec
Replies: 54
Views: 4,690
Not surprising. Most Pentaxians know everything without taking classes.

Welcome to a very exclusive (and upscale club)...
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 07-12-2016, 11:55 AM  
Bojidar Dimitrov is looking for someone to take over his page
Posted By yucatanPentax
Replies: 17
Views: 2,565
It would be cool if somehow a little "Thank you" could be arranged for him from Pentax users and fans. I mean, I can email a "thank you" but a little group retirement gift would be sorta cool too. Just thinking out loud. . .
Forum: Pentax Q 07-02-2016, 12:29 AM  
A dissapointing delivery
Posted By newmikey
Replies: 52
Views: 5,328
I never stop being amazed at how worked up people can get about things like this on the other side of the Atlantic. So the cap was loose and the bubble wrap had a slight tear in it and the adapter may have even been removed from its packaging before but still seems brand-new and fully operable. So what? If you only want factory sealed products, return it for a full refund (and you'll probably get your apology from the seller too). Just stop whining please.
Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II 05-24-2016, 07:15 PM  
No "ricoh"
Posted By Tas
Replies: 40
Views: 4,690
Take a close look at the battery pack. :D
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 07-10-2015, 10:36 AM  
A Gentle Reminder: Keep those reviews on point
Posted By GeneV
Replies: 47
Views: 4,382
I find the use of the word "ding" odd in this context. What is the total score supposed to mean? Is this a contest or just a buying aid? The reality as far as I can see is that most lenses do not get "dinged" enough--lots of very high ratings on the overall part, which do not correspond to the sum of the ratings for individual aspects.

To me, the score is someone's opinion as to how desirable this lens may be compared to other options. For a DSLR user (probably most of the readers), an M lens which is unusable with P-TTL, cannot use program mode well and gives unreliable exposure readings with some digital bodies is less desirable than an A lens which does not have those disadvantages. If I am looking for a lens for my LX, not having an aperture dial or smoothly damped focus is a big minus. The structure of having an "overall" score not connected to individual scores is inherently subjective. It is what it is, and I can't get too upset about it.
Forum: Pentax K-r 09-01-2014, 02:20 PM  
TESTS: Plated vs Painted (conducting vs non-conducting) lens mounts on K-r: whats t
Posted By marcusBMG
Replies: 8
Views: 5,522
When I first acquired and tried to use an M42 lens (a helios 44) on my K-r it was all a bit perplexing: all my pics were way underexposed, and the camera didn't work as I expected. I now know that these glitches/problems are inherent to the the use of vintage/legacy lenses on Pentax, see for example:

The point of this piece is to share some of the experience I have gleaned.
Here is my recently acquired (they're a bit scarce but look around and they can be found, I got this one with a lens) shiny plated M42 t-mount with PK adapter fixed in place*, alongside a standard black PK t-mount, a modded t-mount and a plated brass M42-PK adapter that I am now using on my Vivitar 90mm macro.
*BTW you should remove the little locking spring clip on the adapter when using the PK-M42 adapter like this. I have made a wee notch to accept the k-mount lens locking pin to hold the lens in place see pic below.

In a nutshell, with a non-conducting black anodised mount such as a typical M42 or most t-mounts:
  1. Green button (set on Tv shift) no longer stops down (if this needs explaining to you read this ). But testing indicates a shutter speed IS set (note: K10D and K20D, for example - the green button always stops down, and other models may have their own idiosyncracies).

  2. There are a few early third party PK mount lenses that are anodised and non-conducting, but these are pretty rare. These would, however, be problematic to use without creating an electrical connection to the contacts on the camera mount. With t-mounts and M42, because there is no aperture lever, and therefore the iris is not held open by the camera, stop down metering in Av is the mode of choice.

  3. But exposures are way off - typically requiring high levels of compensation, in fact with longer focal length lenses like my 400mm Tamron Nestar or Tamron Adaptamatic 300mm I am normally maxed out at +3eV.

A lot of us use hacks/work-arounds: foil between the lens and camera mounts to short (specifically) contact 7 at the half past position, or removing the black anodising off the lens mount, as per the modded t-mount in pic.

I use a piece of foil, folded, like this it can be held in position while the lens is tightened in the mount. It doesn't seem to matter if the foil covers several contacts, just as long as the data contact is covered. The helios 44M-4 has a wide base that covers the contacts so this works well. The silver helios 44 however has a narrow M39 mount that doesn't cover the contacts. The "copper wire trick" is an alternative method.

In any case I had been looking for one of these plated t-mounts as a nicer, more convenient and better connecting solution for my t-mount lenses. As you can see the mount only just covers (half) the contacts. This is the comparison between the two t-mounts, using a Jupiter 11A 135mm f4 as a convenient test lens, on my Kr.

mountmode f4 f5.6 f8 f11 f16blackgreen button 1/320 1/160 1/80 1/50 1/40blackAv 1/1000 1/500 1/250 1/125 1/80silvergreen button 1/250 1/125 1/80 1/60 1/40silverAv 1/250 1/160 1/80 1/50 1/30
You can see the difference:

My M42 mount Vivitar 90mm f2.8 produces similar results when compared mounted using a pentax original style rimless (= non-conducting) adapter and the rimmed plated conducting adapter in the pic above.

mountmode f2.8 f4 f5.6 f8 f11 f16rimlessgreen button1/5001/4001/200 1/100 1/601/125rimlessAv 1/20001/1250 1/800 1/400 1/1601/100platedgreen button 1/500 1/320 1/200 1/80 1/40 1/20platedAv 1/500 1/400 1/200 1/100 1/60 1/30
To summarise:
  1. The exposures in M mode, and with a conducting mount in Av, were basically the same.

  2. The exposures in Av with a non-conducting mount were approx twice as underexposed.

  3. In all modes all the vintage lenses I have used require exposure compensation, normally for underexposure, which is why I prefer Av mode, with an appropriate compensation dialed in based on test shots.

And in conclusion, I can say that if it wasn't for a glitch, using conducting adapters or a foil etc hack would be a no-brainer. That glitch is "mirror flopping". Unfortunately, using these tricks tends to set off a propensity to flop. On my K-r's its not been out of hand, like some of the bad cases documented on threads here. Typically its a routine double mirror up down, the second delayed a few secs, on taking a pic. But its variable, sometimes it hardly flops at all. The viv + plated adapter, for example, seems to work particularly well. Why? Well thats the $64,000 question isn't it!

Some more relevant threads:
Forum: Photographic Technique 08-06-2014, 12:35 PM  
I need advice from the airshow shooters
Posted By nomadkng
Replies: 10
Views: 2,116
The reason one is blurred is not a depth of field issue, its a panning issue. In order to get the crossing patterns, you have to guesstimate the center point and shoot with the camera still. Simple math tells you that if you are panning with one plane, the closing rate of the second plane is doubled, thus it is motion blurred. The only way you can pan and freeze BOTH planes is to shoot around 1/8000th of a sec and at 1000mph closing speeds, even that might not work.

I just got done shooting the Blue Angles at Seafair, and with a little practice and tolerance of completely blank frames before and after, I managed to get a couple crossing shots with both planes clean by anticipating the crossing point and resisting the urge to pan.

In terms of shutter speeds, 1/250-1/320 seems to be the sweet spot for prop planes, but it requires panning expertise. For jets, I'm never less than 1/1600. Also planes running perpendicular to you are easier to capture than planes coming directly toward or away from you. Keep in mind, this also is based on 300mm focal length. At 500mm, your field of view compensation for shake doubles. You may have a really tough time at 1/320th and 500mm getting a sharp image. Rule of thumb would say at 500mm you need min 1/750 just to compensate for human aspects.

Finally, DoF comes into play when shooting formations of multiple planes. Unless you can get to f10-ish, your going to have to decide which plane you want in focus.

The nice thing about air races is that their routes are pretty much predictable. My suggestion would be to get a very sturdy tripod, mount your lens on the tripod and focus on one particular area that is compositionally pleasing. Limit your panning and scope of photos to that area and experiment with shutter speeds. You'll have multiple heats so you can always change positions for multiple angles in a portfolio.
Forum: General Photography 01-07-2014, 11:20 PM  
Free online photography course
Posted By Louicio
Replies: 11
Views: 3,083
Open2study has a course which they are offering for free as a marketing strategy, however it may be of considerable interest to users of this forum. I enrolled and I am going to participate, not sure what the content will cover but good to have a look all the same. Check it out if it interests you! :)
Forum: Pentax Price Watch 01-01-2014, 11:41 PM  
Canada: Pentax SMC P-DA Fish-Eye 10-17mm f3.5-4.5 ED IF for CA$379.00
Posted By ultraviolet
Replies: 0
Views: 949
Pentax smc P-DA Fish-Eye 10-17mm F3.5-4.5 ED IF - Broadway Camera
Until January 9th. Call them to activate the add to cart link.

Forum: Site Suggestions and Help 12-08-2013, 05:07 PM  
Question Your Top Ten Photos 2013
Posted By dane.dawg
Replies: 2
Views: 764
I would like to start a thread of our top ten photos taken from 2013, as was wondering where I would start this thread..
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 11-27-2013, 04:28 PM  
Which lens for athletics?
Posted By dosdan
Replies: 11
Views: 1,072
I shoot a lot of junior athletics. I'd recommend about 85-120mm FL for shooting LJ or TJ from front-on at the sandpit. I use a Sigma 70-200/F2.8 and a DA* 60-250/F4.

AF performance of the K-5 and various lenses in head-on LJ shooting is demonstrated here:

I've used a M50/F1.7 (MF/ME) and an A50/F2 (MF/AE) for tripod-in-the-middle shooting of 4-5 shot HJ sequences (take-off, rise up, over the bar, coming down). Here I use f/8 or f/9, 1/800s or 1/1000s and set up to either fully frame the whole bar at 50mm FL, or a bit closer with panning. I use the deep DOF to allow MF (I pre-focus with the K-5 on the brand name on the jump bar, using 10x zoom in LV.) With the K-5 and AF, I've found it difficult to keep the jumper always in focus, with the focus jumping to the background in some shots in a sequence. Hence my use of MF. Hopefully the AF tracking in the K-3 and, in particular, the AF hold sensitivity control, will permit AF to work better in HJ.

With sprints, I set up on the outside of the track near the finish line and cover from the start of the finishing start to the finish line. Here I use the 60-250, but the AOV causes problems right at the finish unless you move further back (and then sometimes people walk in front of you.) With head-on shooting of the 100m, the AOV change from the start to the finish is problematic. Superzooms can cover it, but you lose out on light-gathering, distortion and sharpness. If shot end-on, probably just concentrate on the finish.

With 400/800/1500m I use a Sigma 10-70/F2.8-F4.5 for the staggered start on the outside in front of the edge of the curved-line of starters, f/9-f/11 and snap them as they come towards/past me. Then I switch lenses to the 60-250 or 70-200 and run back to the outer finish line position for 400m races.

During the longer races (800m, 1500m, walks) , I've been going instead to the inside of track, sitting down on the ground, besides the track, near the finish line (or a little way down into the straight, depending on obstacles), and then using 70-100 FL @ f/2.8-f/3.5 to get blurred-background individual shots. I got a set of nice blurred-background shots in this position with a DA35/F2.4 fully open, but with 35mm FL the runners had to be keeping to the inside of the track and only filled the frame when they were fairly close to me, so 60-100mm FL would have been better.

It seems to me that a 100/F2.8 or 85/F1.8 prime lens would be a good choice for high-quality individual race & LJ/TJ shots. However it would have to be fast focussing. I've got a FA100/F2.8 Macro lens, but this is slow focusing for macro work, so I've never tried it for action.

For 60m hurdles, I use the 60-250 to get a wide zoom range from the outside finish-line or near finish-line position. Sometimes I get further away to get more coverage width. I shoot short bursts, 3-5 shots, trying to get one or more competitors in the optimum aerial position on each hurdle rank. I shoot raw and usually fill the K-5's shot buffer before the final hurdle. If I was to shoot end-on, it would depend of the lens AOV, presence of officials behind the finish line and whether I could shoot from above ground-level

Discus needs to be shot in front (if I can get field access - usually only at the local club level, not at regional or state level events) so a big FL is good here. For rotational discus , sequences work well.

Shotput is boring to shoot. If an O'Brien Glide is being used or I can't get frontal access, I've shot from the rear and you can still get an interesting facial expression.

Javelin, I find problematic.The only decent shot seems to be just after the jav has left the thrower's hand. If shooting up close from the side you have to be lucky to get it while it's still fully in frame.

With all throws, it's difficult because you can't convey the final result of the throw, only the emotion and effort during the throw.

With athletics, soccer etc. it's worthwhile having at least 1 zoom lens that is WR. The DA*60-250/F4 with its deep hood works well in the pouring rain, as long as it's not gusting too much i.e. the front of the lens stays dry.

Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 10-30-2013, 05:21 PM  
Meanwhile in Montreal
Posted By JC-K3
Replies: 22
Views: 5,216

I am one of the lucky one that got the k3 special edition. Come's with the hand grip including a second battery. I am new in the DSLR world. I was going for the nikon D610, but the sales rep did the difference. He took all the time to show me what Pentax can deliver. He showed me stunning pictures taken with the K3. Pictures that he showed me address most if not all kind of picture type that I will be taken. Flucard worked very well with my IPAD.I just need to perform more testing before giving any review

Here's my config

Pentax macro 100mm
Sigma 10-20mm f4-5.6
Sigma 17-70mm f2.8-4 I might be replacing it for a 17-50 f2.8

Looking for sigma 70-200 mm f2.8

All of that of 1/3 of the nikon price

Have fun!
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II 10-22-2013, 08:45 AM  
Reasons for buying a K-3
Posted By Kenntak
Replies: 85
Views: 8,420
I cannot see normhead's reasons. Does anyone else have that problem?
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II 10-16-2013, 11:18 PM  
why I won't buy a k3 (Warning: Satire Thread)
Posted By Merts
Replies: 91,066
Views: 3,832,633
At the risk of being accused of repeating myself. Have you not noticed PENTAX is written in bold letters in the prism housing of the K-3?
There is no evidence at all to suggest Ricoh has any intention of dropping the Pentax brand name. This thread really is ridiculous.
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