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Forum: Pentax Film SLR Discussion 06-12-2013, 03:27 PM  
My Journey with film | Part 1
Posted By montman
Replies: 26
Views: 2,526
From my blog... The “Test Batch” | Our Journey with Film | Part 1
Jamie and I began our journey with film a little over a year ago. At the time, it was just another tool to push us as photographers. No LCD screen on the back of our camera to check if we had gotten “The Shot”, no memory cards, no instant gratification. What we found was a deeper passion for our art. We also discovered a community of other film shooters with like passion and a desire to help others learn the craft of film photography. In the coming months we hope to share part of that journey. Below is a compilation of images known to us as the “Test Batch”. We were not just content to learn how to shoot film but we also wanted to understand how to develop and take it from analog to digital. During the month of January we began our journey with black and white development. It’s a fairly easy process but due to some faulty equipment it took us a full month to get the results we wanted. Every time we stumbled, there was a plethora of people in the film community to help us troubleshoot. You will see a lot of water spots, dust, light leaks and other technical problems in this “Test Batch”. We had to shoot and develop every day for a month to get the results we wanted. Despite the dust and out of focus shots, the film we shot during this one month period has become very dear to our hearts and will give you a glimpse into our family of six.




Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 05-03-2012, 01:28 PM  
How much 'pixie dust' is in the FA Limited 43mm 1.9?
Posted By Ecaterin
Replies: 50
Views: 6,717
In the category of FWIW, I sold my DA35 Ltd. after a couple of weeks. It's a fantastic lens, but it's not a *special* lens.

I only let go of my FA43 when I sold my K-5....and selling the 43 was harder than seeing the K-5 go!!

I've had the DA35Ltd, the DA15Ltd and the DA70Ltd, and my experience with them was, they were amazing lenses in every technical way - sharpness, micro contrast, color, build....so perfect that they rendered everything almost exactly as the human eye sees it. And that's where they fell short for me. I want a lens that gives me all of those technical qualities, and then *adds* something to the picture. The FA limited lenses do that, where the DA lenses don't (or don't as much).

Somewhere on the forums, in one of the many "compare DA to FA Ltds" threads, someone wrote about the engineering choices made for the FA's, and how they wouldn't be designs created today. Some corner softness and susceptibility to CA were allowed in order to give a rendering that's completely unique in bokeh, center sharpness....and general pixie dust content :D

Having messed with a bunch of lenses in the past few years, my long term camera plan looks like this: my Fuji X100 for all my every day shooting and professional use as a second camera, and reacquiring a K-5 plus the FA Ltds. for portrait work. I just don't see the point of owning much beyond those 3 lenses, except that the DA15 still has complete mind control, so I'll have it as well :D Alas, my love affair with the FA Ltd. rendering will cost me many monies, and that'll take me a good long while to generate. But I'm patient, and meanwhile the K-5 body will keep coming down in price, as the K-? and further get released :P

I'm not the only person whose camera lay out runs the same way....and chances are we're not *all* crazy :D Just, you know, most of us :P
Forum: Pentax Film SLR Discussion 03-08-2011, 01:29 PM  
K1000 check points
Posted By noblepa
Replies: 5
Views: 1,838
The K1000 is a pretty simple camera. If the camera is being sold as "body only", or if you're not sure whether it has a lens or not, take one of your manual lenses along.

The most obvious think is the film advance and shutter. It should advance film and fire at all speeds from 1 second to 1/1000. While you can't measure the accuracy of the shutter speeds, you should be able to hear a difference between shutter speeds. At speeds of 1/30 and slower, you may hear a bit if gear train rebound after the shutter movement. This is normal. The K1000, like the Spotmatic that preceeded it, used two different gear trains for 1 sec. - 1/30 and from 1/60 - 1/1000.

Open the back and advance the film. You should be able to see the shutter move, as it is being cocked into the ready position. Trip the shutter at slow and high speeds. At 1/60 or slower, the shutter should be fully open for a brief moment. At higher speeds, the shutter forms a moving slit across the film plane, as the trailing shutter begins closing before the leading shutter has completely opened.

At high speeds, hold the camera up to a bright light and trip the shutter. Even at 1/1000 second, you should be able to see a flash of light. Sometimes, in older mechanical cameras, the shutter gets weak or out of adjustment and the leading shutter slows down, so that it does not keep ahead of the trailing shutter. When this happens, the exposure accuracy will be off and, at high speeds, you may get no exposure at all, due to the overlap of the leading/trailing shutters.

You might want to get a battery so you can test the meter. I believe the K1000 uses a PX625. You can't get the original mercury 625 anymore, but the alkaline version will suffice. Wien also makes a zinc/air version with the correct voltage.

Check the foam seals around the film back. On old cameras, sometimes the foam dries out and crumbles, or turns to black, slimy goo. The good news is, this is easy and inexpensive to replace. Its an easy DIY project. There is also a strip of foam inside the camera, just in front of the prism, that dampens the mirror as it flips up. This foam, too, can be brittle or gooey. Its also easy to replace. Foam seal kits are readily available on ebay for around $10.

The mirror should flip up, out of the way, with no hesitation or stickiness. It should return to viewing position just as quickly. Its really no different than the one on your K10D.

The K1000 has both hotshoe and PC connections for flash. You could take a flash unit along to test that, as well.

Other obvious things to check on any camera: the battery cover should come off fairly easily. (Use a nickel) If not, it could be corroded in place. If it comes off, check for corrosion in the battery compartment. Check the leatherette. If its faded, a little black shoe polish will make it look like new. If its lifting at the corners, it can be glued down or replaced. There are sellers on the web who have kits for this, in either the original black, or wild colors. I've even seen sharkskin K1000's, if you like that sort of thing.

You can download the users guide from Digital Cameras and Accessories - Official PENTAX Imaging Web Site. Click on the Support tab and follow the prompts.

The lens should stop down to the selected aperture and pop back open after the exposure. If its your lens, this proves the camera is operating it properly. If its their lens it proves that the lens and camera are working as they should. If the aperture doesn't re-open quickly, look for oil on the blades.

A K1000 in good cosmetic shape and good working condition sells for $50-75, plus shipping, with a 50mm, f/2 lens, on ebay. I wouldn't pay much more than that, unless it is in exceptional condition, or comes with worthwhile extras, like additional lenses or a good flash unit. I don't consider things like a UV filter, or a lens cleaning kit to be worthwhile extras.

Good luck. The K1000 is a fine camera.
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