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Forum: Photo Critique 05-02-2012, 08:56 AM  
People Soft focus with a fog filter!
Posted By K-9
Replies: 1
Views: 1,630
I like the effect in these a lot, although the bright green color coming through around her face in the first two is slightly distracting. If the reflective effect could be achieved without covering her face it would enhance the shots. Attainable through repositioning of the model or your vantage point.

Watch the model's head pose in number 2, as staring up toward the nose isn't a flattering viewpoint. 1 and 3 are good poses.

They definitely have an early 80's look to them.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 07-20-2011, 01:58 AM  
Helios 77M-4 MC 50mm F1.8 Have you used this lens?
Posted By kent
Replies: 11
Views: 15,852
That was me who posted a review of 77M with pics on this site :) I sold that lens however I can easily recommend it. It is really razor sharp, and has very good contrast, produces nice colors. It has nervous bokeh, really it can sometimes distract. However, as far as I remember at f/1.8 it was as sharp as my 40mm limited at f/2.8 (at center). That helios is really sharper than FA50mm f/1.4 lens. It might be that I just got a stunning copy, however few reviews of other users just prove the truth.
Focus ring was not the easiest to turn but still reasonably smooth (without ability to turn it fast). I found some old pics made with 77M. All at f/1.8
Buy it.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 07-19-2011, 09:40 PM  
Helios 77M-4 MC 50mm F1.8 Have you used this lens?
Posted By Siegfried
Replies: 11
Views: 15,852
Metalwizards,
I've got this lens and have used it a lot. It's about the same biotar as all those helioses having that twisted bokeh wide open, pretty good general contrast and microcontrast (for MC variants, but all H77's came MC'd since they were made in late 80' to mid-late 90's). I've hit the limit for disk space here for my account, so you can refer to this link for photos:

the link

Most of the shots were made with H77M-4MC at f=2.8, only _IGP1293 was shot wide open and some (one or two) landscapes were done at f=8. Check 'aperture' field available under (i) 'info ' -> 'photo data' web-site page controls to confirm whether a shot was made with this lens or Tokina AT-X AF280PRO: if there's a certain aperture reported, then it's Tokina. Otherwise it's H77M4-MC at 2.8 (or 1.8 or 8, see above).

Bottom line: rare, pretty good baby of Helious family, recommended w/o any reservations, fair market price: up to $250USD for a decent copy. N.b.: focus ring goes the other way then one on Pentax, Tokina and Nikon glass: infinity is on the right and MFD is on the left (just like Sigma, Canon, Zeiss; Pentax, Tokina and Nikon have infinity in the left and MFD on the right). Sometimes it's a bit frustrating, but not that much.

Zig

P.S.
When saying smth about FMV I mean it's fair for something to have such price sticker. But probably you'll fail trying to sell it at this price tag since it's public opinion that goes 'I used to see this X at $5-15, you must be nuts asking $150'. I purchased my NOS copy for $150 a couple years ago and I'm pretty happy with it: both price and copy itself.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 07-19-2011, 12:41 AM  
Helios 77M-4 MC 50mm F1.8 Have you used this lens?
Posted By mano
Replies: 11
Views: 15,852
Hello there!

Just recently I got a 77K-4 from ebay, which seems to be the same lens with a k-mount. I only did some test shots, so far I like it. I read about the special bokeh but have not found it in my tests yet ;-).

If I find the time (not sure I will), I'll upload some of the test when I'm home later. I would recommend the lens if you find it for a reasonable price. It's typical Russian hardware, very solid and well build.

EDIT: It seems there are sill some of the 77K's available from a Russian Ebayer:
Objektiv MC Helios-77K-4. Pentax-K bajonett. | eBay
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 07-16-2011, 11:04 PM  
Tamron 28-75 from a da40?
Posted By philbaum
Replies: 7
Views: 1,903
I do rehearsal shots for a local theatre group. The Tamron 28-75 f2.8 is my workhorse lens, although i have several to choose from. I get sharp images from it and don't have a problem with focus, although i use a -5 lens adjustment when inside the theatre. I've tried using primes for stage work, but conditions change too much for that to be manageable. i have no problem using it with the K5 or the K20.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 07-16-2011, 10:25 PM  
Tamron 28-75 from a da40?
Posted By jstevewhite
Replies: 7
Views: 1,903
I would be MUCH happier with the Tamron 28-75 if autofocus worked properly on my K-5. I can set my AF fine adjust for a single focal length, and it's dead on there, but off at any other setting. Meh.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 07-16-2011, 07:07 PM  
Tamron 28-75 from a da40?
Posted By kenafein
Replies: 7
Views: 1,903
I have the tamron and the fa50 1.4. Part of me wants to get the DA 40 to try out a limited, but another part of me makes me think I should sell most of my primes in the same range as the tamron because it is so good.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 07-16-2011, 07:07 PM  
Tamron 28-75 from a da40?
Posted By paperbag846
Replies: 7
Views: 1,903
I've used both. Contrast + colour was about 10% better with the 40 (noticeable). Not so important though. I ended up swapping the 40 for an FA 50 1.4, which ALSO has less desirable colour and contrast. I didn't go for the Tamron because I'm picky and prefer small lenses, plus, his copy was in pretty rough shape by my standards (used).

The versatility of the Tamron is pretty phenomenal and as long as you don't mind lugging around a larger lens, you pretty much have the DA 40, DA 70, and FA 28 in one lens. IQ differences are not at all important if you shoot RAW + post process. Also keep in mind the AF on the Tamron will be slower, but thats because the 40 is VERY fast :cool:.

In short - on a budget, you can't really go wrong with the 28-75. Those are easily all of the most useful focal lengths in one lens... you can pick up something like the DA 21 / DA 15 to round out your kit for something pretty easy (and relatively inexpensive).

IMHO, the more time I spend with my FA 50 1.4, the less I care for autofocus for that lens. Generally speaking, it misses focus about as much as I do when its wide open, and it's not particularly hard to focus stopped down a bit. The M 50 1.4 is a great lens as long as you dont mind manual metering.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 07-16-2011, 06:59 PM  
Tamron 28-75 from a da40?
Posted By dgaies
Replies: 7
Views: 1,903
I use both and so long as you don't mind the extra size, I'd go for it as I don't think you'll feel like it's a major step down in IQ or anything. Certainly the gains in versatility (in FL) are significantly greater than any IQ you'd lose in the process. Specifically, I'd expect a little less flare resistance from the Tamron and the AF won't be quite as quick as the DA40. The Tamron 28-75 + an M50/1.4 is a nice combo IMO, especially for people/portraits.
Forum: Photographic Technique 07-02-2011, 04:51 PM  
How to shoot by candle light?
Posted By O-ring
Replies: 7
Views: 4,011
Low power red laser pointer (smth like tiny keychain you can get at 1$ stores or a gas station) gives a perfect focus even in a complete darkness.

MAKE SURE you are not pointing in the eyes!!!

Set your camera on a tripod, click on the pointer, put the red dot at the desired distance (I prefer body or clothing), prefocus the camera, click off the pointer, frame the subject and shoot.

With non-human/animal subjects easy to do with one hand (right for me) even w/o tripod. Hold the camera with your left hand, put the pointer next to the pentaprizm and use your right index finger to turn the pointer on/off, prefocus and shoot. Worked great in caves.

Practice your moves with a dim table lamp brfore working with live models. Good luck!
Forum: Photographic Technique 07-02-2011, 05:12 PM  
How to shoot by candle light?
Posted By mysticcowboy
Replies: 7
Views: 4,011
I've been drawn to that kind of low key lighting, too. Candle light is nice but candles don't provide much illumination. A low power flash or flood with an orange filter to add to the candles is one solution. Make sure the light comes from the same direction and general location as the candle. Just hide the extra light so it looks like the candle is providing the illumination.

I've been playing around with led video lights and gels as well as directional flash. Directional is the key word. Light softeners like umbrellas or soft boxes tend to weaken shadows rather than enhance them. You want a dark environment and a strong light direction.

Not candle light but along the same lines:
Forum: Photographic Technique 07-02-2011, 05:43 PM  
How to shoot by candle light?
Posted By adr1an
Replies: 7
Views: 4,011
I was looking for some stuff to muck around with using some Gels a few months back, and shot a few frames like this:


If I redid them, I'd drag the shutter a little longer to get some more ambient glow on the candles.. I'd also fix the WB in the pics I posted ;) lol...

To help with focus, I used a Torch...
A tripod of course is a must if there was no strobes - but I ended up shooting this at Flash-Sync so it would have worked hand held as well...

Quickest way to 'get close' would be set to Spot Meter, center over the 'warm glow' you want to capture, and then take a shot and chimp it.... adjust as necceasry...
Using the "Green Button" setup to TV Shift in Manual could be a rapid way to knock in a 'first pass' and then easily adjust things as needed...
Forum: Photographic Technique 07-02-2011, 09:33 PM  
How to shoot by candle light?
Posted By hcc
Replies: 7
Views: 4,011
You already received some useful tips and advice. Let me add a suggestion to the above.

In very low light conditions, do consider to use Manual Focus (MF). It may take a few trials but you can get some excellent results using MF. You may consider to read the thread:
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-beginners-corner-q/146443-manual-f...we-afraid.html

There are some worthwhile inputs from experienced Pentaxians on MF.

Hope that the comment will help...:rolleyes:
Forum: Photographic Technique 07-02-2011, 10:41 PM  
How to shoot by candle light?
Posted By JohnBee
Replies: 7
Views: 4,011
I think the technique is pretty straight forward actually.
I dabbled in candle light photography awhile back and found that it was pretty easy to work with. However, if I had to do it again, I think I'd shoot in higher key and control the ambient lighting in post. This way, you get a leaner shadow regions and better overall control.

Other than that, its just a matter of reflecting the light( to fill ) according to your needs and if memory serves, I think I used a very small fill light as well( to pick up shadows).

A few examples;





Forum: Photographic Technique 07-03-2011, 04:55 PM  
How to shoot by candle light?
Posted By OrenMc
Replies: 7
Views: 4,011
You are speaking in terms of the candle being the light source so I can't help you there. I have only taken one photo as the candle being the subject matter.

Forum: Pentax K-r 04-27-2011, 11:53 PM  
Who else are waiting for a firmware update for K-r to fix the FF problem
Posted By Nobbys Nuts
Replies: 278
Views: 54,329
Haven't touched the White Balance on my KR since the day I bought it.
Have none of the problems that some keep harping on about in every thread that they can.

I must have an exceptionally good KR if everyone elses is crap.
I would love to see some more pictures from HAPPY KR owners in the photo thread I have started.
There must be more than just me.
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 04-17-2011, 10:35 PM  
Superimposing images to make twins of the same person
Posted By nosliwmit
Replies: 3
Views: 6,413
I did this one recently by manipulating seven photos with the "Scene Cleaner" function in Photoshop Elements 7. You have two images side-by-side and you draw over the elements in one photo that you want to add to the other photo. It's quite easy and works well as long as there's enough space between objects that you're moving around.
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 04-17-2011, 10:22 PM  
Superimposing images to make twins of the same person
Posted By HEEGZ
Replies: 3
Views: 6,413
Open all of your images in CS4 and then manually overlap them in consecutive layers. I'm not sure how to explain this quickly, but there are tutorials online that explain how to do it. Something kind of like this maybe?

Adobe Design Center - CS3 Adobe Video Workshop
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 01-10-2009, 04:56 PM  
REVIEW: Samyang 85mm F1.4 Aspherical IF
Posted By tranq78
Replies: 159
Views: 313,184
Review of Samyang 85mm F1.4 Aspherical IF lens

In keeping with the saying “a picture is worth a thousand words” I’ve included images in my review much as possible. Pictures of the lens are taken on a point & shoot so they aren’t the world’s greatest images. I don’t own a d-SLR.

I’ve never done a lens review so some of you may not be happy with this. But I've focused (pun) on how I evaluate a lens, namely (a) how is the handling and appearance (ergonomics) and (b) does it take nice pictures? Your mileage may differ.

As near as I can tell from pictures on the internet and the Vivitar/Sakar press release, this lens is the same as the Polar, Sakar, Walimex and new Vivitar Series 1 lenses.


PHYSICAL APPEARANCE AND SPECIFICATIONS

1) If you are used to the petite FA77 you may be surprised at how big and heavy this lens is (I mean this in a good way). Check out the relative sizes. The Samyang is a bit smaller than Pentax’s 85/1.4’s and the Nikon 85/1.4D, but they are all similar in size as dictated by the laws of physics.






You see a FA77 Limited, FA*85, Samyang 85, A*85 and Nikon/Nikkor 85/1.4 AF-D. Not shown is a silver FA77 and another 85/1.4AF-D. Yes, I like fast lenses. Did you notice?


2) What’s in the box? It comes with a hood, cloth lens bag, and instruction sheet/manual.

The hood is round and is not a screw-on hood. It is not very deep. If you want something with better shading maybe we can use hoods that fit on other lenses since the hood is a simple snap-on type. Or you can get a metal screw-on hood.





3) This is a P/KA mount. Some of the internet pictures don’t show the “A” setting but it does have one. Here are the specs that came with the lens. The minimum focus distance is about 1 meter/3 feet, so this is not a macro lens. This lens can be used for “full frame” and 35mm film cameras. There is an aperture ring.






This lens is mostly metal and glass. What is plastic is the hood and the front filter threads. But the body looks metal. If you are concerned with the plastic collar cracking or breaking, a UV/skylight filter will mitigate this risk. If you don’t like using filters, just get a cheap 72mm filter, remove the glass and screw the metal filter ring onto the lens – simple and easy. If this causes any angst, let me point out my Tamron 90mm F2.8 Macro also has a plastic front collar (albeit thicker) and I’ve never read any complaints about it.

The aperture ring’s click stops snap in place. The aperture blades move freely. The “A” setting locks in place nicely and unlocks with a metal pin where it’s easy to access. The focus ring stops nicely and firmly at infinity, unlike some modern lenses that go a bit past infinity.

This lens is internal focus. The front optical element does not rotate and the body does not rack in/out when you focus. A very nice feature. We’ll come back to this shortly.

This is a manual focus lens. As you can see from the first pictures there is a nice, wide rubberized grip that is 2cm wide for turning the focus ring. All the fast 85s have this rubber grip.

The throw from closest focus distance (1m/3ft) to infinity is almost half a turn, which is quite acceptable. By this I mean the lens barrel has a large diameter, approximately 21-22cm, so the focus throw is about a pretty decent 9cm.

The focus ring is nicely damped; if you have used any of the Pentax manual focus lenses you’ll know what I mean. So if you are concerned it’s not autofocus, don’t be – manual focus is easy with this optic, especially with that large F1.4 aperture.

Let’s compare the design of the Samyang to my existing lenses. But as you can see there is nothing to complain about.

• A*85/F1.4 has a focus throw of about 10.5cm (1/2 turn). But it does rack in & out for focusing. Front optical element doesn’t rotate. There is also a nice rubberized grip for manual focus.

• FA*85/F1.4 has a focus throw of only a short turn since it is autofocus. But it does not rack in/out (internal focus design). Front element does not rotate. There is a rubberized grip for manual focusing. It has the handy AF/MF clutch none of the others have.

• FA77 Limited/F1.8 has focus throw about a turn. But it’s an autofocus lens so the manual focus ring is small and a bit harder to use. It does rack in/out when focusing. Front element does not rotate.

• Nikon 85/1.4D has a focus throw of 1/3 a turn. It does not rack in/out (internal focus). Front element does not rotate.


4) The seller said this has 9 blades but I count 8, I think. See for yourself. We’ll take a look at the bokeh in another picture but 8 (or 9?) blades should make for nice, smooth out of focus backgrounds.





5) At f1.4 it lets in lots and lots of light...







6) It is multicoated. Obviously it isn’t Pentax’s SMC. I can’t comment about flare control. It has been snowing all week and the sun hasn’t made an appearance.






TEST PICTURES

7) Sample pictures are below. Here are the technical details: MZ-S film camera, tripod mounted, mirror lockup, ISO400 film. Scanned to jpg via Epson V500. Lens hood used for all images, no filters (except as noted below).

There are 2 things to draw your attention to. Firstly, apologies for the dust in the photos. It’s the middle of winter and it is extremely dry, dust sticks to everything. In the interests of getting this review out, some dust got left in.

Secondly, all three 85/1.4’s clearly demonstrate their awesome ability to handle low/difficult lighting. It was very dim (early morning) when I took the photos of the colored markers. Yet I could still use a 1/250 second shutter speed and manual focusing was easy. Cool. Very cool.


Test Pictures - Part 1

Here is a brick wall at minimum focus distance, taken at 1/3000 sec @ F1.4 (wide open).




For larger photo click here: User Photo Gallery - Miscellaneous



Now let’s look at corner performance. Taken at infinity distance at F1.4. The sky was overcast and (relatively) evenly lit. That’s pretty good performance, in fact it is better than I expected, so I am impressed. Don’t forget that with the digital crop factor corner performance isn’t much of an issue (if it bothers you). Obviously if you stop down a bit the dark corners will be gone. EDIT: Upon re-reading my notes, the sky was not completely even, the bright spots you see in the middle of the image were actually there in the sky and not some artifact.

1/6000 second @ F1.4




For larger picture click here: User Photo Gallery - Miscellaneous


Test Pictures - Part 2

Now let’s look at bokeh, color, contrast. The next pictures have all been gray carded, all taken at minimum focus distance, all at wide open apertures. I have focused on the red marker, 2nd from the left.


Samyang lens - 1/250 sec, F1.4




For larger image click here: User Photo Gallery - Miscellaneous



Pentax A*85 – 1/250 sec, F1.4




For larger image click here: User Photo Gallery - Miscellaneous


Pentax FA77 LIMITED – 1/125 sec, F1.8. (Oops. Made a boo boo. I left a KR1.5 filter on the lens, so the color cast may be a touch warm.)




For larger photo, well you know... User Photo Gallery - Miscellaneous


Pentax FA*85 - 1/250 sec, F1.4




Larger photo here... User Photo Gallery - Miscellaneous



Summary of test shots:
I am looking at the prints in front of me (I told the photo lab to not make any adjustments). To be bluntly honest I can’t tell much difference between any of the 4 lenses. If I didn’t keep detailed notes I would have a hard time telling you which lens took what picture. In other words, this Samyang takes very nice pictures.



CONCLUDING REMARKS

8) So, is this a lens you should buy? That’s your call, not mine. It is your money after all. But as someone who owns a small flock of fast portrait lenses, here is my opinion.

This lens is a quality optic that represents good value. When it comes to photo gear, you can have it cheap or good – pick one. Once in a while you get both and I think this is one of those times. Don’t be put off if this is an unfamiliar brand, there are some Asian names that produce high quality gear at good prices. My 2 excellent Feisol tripods are made in Taiwan. I own 2 superb Markins ballheads made in Korea. My Cosina made 180mm F4 is a jewel.

• Is it as good as the A*85 or FA*85? Well, probably not. But you have to pay 2 to 3 times more (at least) for one of the fast Pentax 85s, and they are no longer made. So the point is kind of moot.

• The closest Pentax lens still available is the FA77. Is it as good as the 77? Well, the Samyang is almost a stop faster (note shutter speed of 77 in test pic), slightly longer in focal length, is manual focus. The FA77 is autofocus, has Pentax’s SMC, is smaller, is all metal, but is more expensive. I can make a case for owning both as they can have different applications but really this is a decision you need to make for yourself.

• What I can say is this. Under normal usage most people will be happy with this lens. If you have never used a F1.4 short telephoto lens you are going to be in for a very pleasant surprise. They are fantastic low light optics (where you will often be manually focusing anyway) and they offer tremendously creative shallow depth of field opportunities (remember, the longer the focal length the more shallow the DOF).

• I’m not a pixel peeper. If I were inclined I’m sure I can torture any lens until it fails. How often have we seen someone on the ‘net proclaiming XYZ lens is bad and they can prove it with a picture of dark tree branches against a bright white sky? So if you buy this lens, use it, enjoy it, and have fun taking pictures.

Ergonomic summary: The overall feel of the lens is solid with a nice hefty feel in the hand. There is nothing loose or wobbly (helped by the internal focus design). Manual focus is smooth and easy, helped by the large F1.4 aperture and design.

• A final suggestion. If you get this lens, mount it onto a tripod and take a head & shoulders portrait wide open. Focus either on the bridge of the nose or slightly in front of the eye. This way the zone of sharp focus ends right at the eyes and everything quickly blurs immediately thereafter. Nice, isn’t it?
Forum: Photo Critique 03-17-2011, 07:10 PM  
Not Work-Safe Some Pin Up
Posted By MSM
Replies: 6
Views: 3,314
I like the images, I would work on the framing. In the second image you need to get the window out of the frame. Also it would be great if you work at cropping in on the model making it a little more abstract. Just my opinion, but this is one area that I think less is more. Makes the image more interesting by not showing everything.

Edit: photo 1: try a close crop of face and chest
2: most of the torso but leave out the face. This one is hard as i don't like the position of the hand.
3: just th legs with a little rear end in portrait mode
Forum: Pentax K-r 03-01-2011, 10:05 PM  
Noise Reduction Settings?
Posted By Frogfish
Replies: 11
Views: 2,870
''

Sorry I can't seem to find it now and I've just spent 30 mins looking for it ! If someone else here knows the link then we'd both be grateful !

Checking my K5 these are the recommended settings I've input :
80/100/200 - No NR
400/800/1600/3200/6400/12800 - low
25600/51200 - high
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 02-13-2011, 02:42 PM  
DA 40mm 2.8 Ltd vs DA (L) 35mm 2.4
Posted By acrollet
Replies: 19
Views: 6,987
I'm going to throw out a curveball and recommend the Pentax-F 50mm f/1.7 - they pop up on the marketplace fairly often, and tend to go for about $200. If you're ok with the increased focal length, it's an amazing lens, makes magical pics especially for portraits/candids. I've shot with a 43mm limited, and honestly like the F50 better. (just my subjective opinion before people jump all over me :)
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 02-13-2011, 02:29 PM  
DA 40mm 2.8 Ltd vs DA (L) 35mm 2.4
Posted By paperbag846
Replies: 19
Views: 6,987
I've used the 50 and the 40. I much preferred the 40 in all ways, sold the 50, and use an old manual 55 for low DOF when I really need it.

As for the 35 vs. 40, I've simply compared sample photos. I like the 40 better personally, but for me, sharpness is not everything. If you want a sharp lens, plain and simple, the 35 is great. Also, some people prefer that wider field of view. I personally use a 28mm for that. One again, personal taste.

Look around at the sample photos in each of the lenses' reviews. If you can't see the difference in colour and or contrast, just run with the 35.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 01-23-2011, 03:22 AM  
What fast lens would you choose for portraits (if you were me)?
Posted By yusuf
Replies: 23
Views: 5,943
It's certainly quicker compared to zooms I have and may be slightly slower than FA35 - overall pretty quick.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 01-19-2011, 04:24 AM  
How to get the most out of my kit lens
Posted By Northern Soul
Replies: 21
Views: 4,553
Fair enough - there is no 'magic' with any lens though, and the f8 advice seemed a bit arbitrary. It makes me think of a conversation a bit like this:

Photographer 1 "Here's a picture I took"
Photographer 2 "Ah that's nice - what settings?"
P1 "ISO 200, F8, 1/125th on the kit lens, pretty nice eh?"
P2 "Yeah, it's a lovely picture - I wish I'd taken it!"
P1 "I took this 2 seconds later"
P2 "Ahhhhhhh my eyes! Wow! That hurts to look at. Put it away!"
P1 "Sorry, that was ISO 100, F5.6. 1/125th"
P2 "Don't ever show that picture to anyone again! I'm going to have to scrub my eyeballs in bleach now"

:lol:
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