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Forum: Lens Clubs 05-16-2015, 08:44 AM  
Vivitar Series 1 Macro Club
Posted By Doundounba
Replies: 125
Views: 19,933
Hey, I just noticed this thread! I also acquired this mythical macro lens this winter from a forum member (vonBaloney). I started shooting with it this spring, and I have to say I enjoy the slight increase in working distance from my Tamron 90mm (272E). It's a heavy beast though! Been thinking of doing a comparative test with my other 1:1 setups, but for now here are some shots (all previously posted in various other threads)...


Assassin Bug (Reduviidae) by Pascal Gaudette, on Flickr


Tiny Fly on Yellow Flower by Pascal Gaudette, on Flickr


Phid! by Pascal Gaudette, on Flickr


Just a Frog by Pascal Gaudette, on Flickr
Forum: Post Your Photos! 06-29-2018, 06:33 AM  
Architecture Airport architecture
Posted By Photogoof
Replies: 8
Views: 698
Love those lines!
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 09-02-2017, 03:25 PM  
Dynamic Range: K-5iis vs K-70 / KP
Posted By Fauxton
Replies: 17
Views: 5,045
I don't believe the Amateur photographer figures. I am not sure how they are testing and calculating them. However I do understand how DXOmark is calculating them and I have an understanding how Bill Claff computes his numbers. I have used the method proposed by DSPographer (http://www.sensorgen.info/Calculations.html for those so inclined) to calculate the K5 and K3 but I haven't applied Bill's method to calculate the KP and K70. They are a bit more involved. There are a number of things to keep in mind when discussing DR. First between what levels are you measuring, particularly what is the acceptable lowest signal? And what is the ISO value (the camera value as used by the manufacturer or some calculated value) used as the independent variable (x axis)? As you can see by DXOmark some manufacturers use pretty strange ISO values. And are we talking about a DR for normalized output (like DXOmarks "Print") or DPReviews "comp" function)?

But be that as it may, to the questions asked. The K5 has the same DR as the K3II when normalized to the same output size. Non normalized DR (not accounting for the number of pixels) the K5 is about 0.7 of a stop better at about ISO 100 (measured value). I expect, but haven't computed it, that the K70 and KP would be better than the K3II by about that .7 of a stop at ISO 100 (calculated). See the file marked DPReview2 below. They'd be about where the 7200 is at abase ISO and likely better than that as ISO increases. See the file marked DPReview4 below. The KP seems to be something like the sensor used in the Sony 6300 and 6500, the electronics may be a bit better in the camera. See the file marked DPReview3 below. The noise is pretty well controlled and the KP and K70 look like they have less noise to my eye that the 6300's. If its the same sensor tech we might have the same or close to the same Full Well Saturation. So the DR would be in that same ballpark although it might be a bit better particularly as ISO increases.

All this to say is that the KP is broadly on the same performance as the Nikon 7200 and Sony 6500 (using raw only - the JPEG engines of either are better tuned than Pentax's). So much so that you'd likely not notice the difference. Would you notice the difference between the K3II and the KP? Everything equal and if you are really pushing the envelope - maybe - about the same difference in performance from say a 7100 to a 7200 which is to say pretty small (the biggest reason 7100 owners upgraded was due to banding issues which the K3, K70 and KP do not suffer from). The KP seems to test better (by the comparison photos) but other features about the K3II may be more desirable than those of the KP.

On a personal note I have a K3 and a K5. I don't feel the need to upgrade to the KP. The K3II replacement maybe. I have some lenses I want first that would make a bigger difference to my photography.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 04-19-2015, 04:20 PM  
Camera clip for hiking, mountain biking, xc skiing - any good?
Posted By unkipunki
Replies: 9
Views: 2,281
I have the capture pro and original capture. As you can mount it to any strap you should be able to engineer a way of keeping the camera away from cycling arms. The system is excellent in my opinion. Very secure I even trust my 645z to it
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 04-19-2015, 07:37 PM  
Camera clip for hiking, mountain biking, xc skiing - any good?
Posted By stsimmer
Replies: 9
Views: 2,281
I used the Capture Pro on a recent five day backpacking trip in Arizona. It is a very convenient way to carry my K3. I can move the camera from the clip to a tripod effortlessly. However, I did take the precaution of tethering the camera to my backpack strap with some op-tech clip straps, but the Capture Pro never failed.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 04-14-2015, 07:18 PM  
Why would I buy an fa31 if I have the da 20-40?
Posted By officiousbystander
Replies: 42
Views: 4,316
In other words this forum is a venue for members to ask permission to do something they're going to do anyway.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 05-31-2014, 09:02 PM  
Confused about APS-C crop factor
Posted By 6BQ5
Replies: 21
Views: 2,957
Lenses cast a circular view of an image with a particular field of view. We forget this because our films and sensors are rectangular (or square in some cases with film photography). Try this exercise.

Draw a circle.

Now draw a rectangle inside the circle. See how much of the circle got cropped?

Next draw a stick figure inside the rectangle.

Go on and draw a smaller rectangle inside the larger rectangle. Do you see how much more got cropped? You may have cropped the stick figure too.

This is how the APS vs. FF (or larger) sensor cropping works. If your stick figure was cropped after the second rectangle then you would have to zoom out or step back to make the figure smaller to begin with in order for him to fit inside the second rectangle. The original circle didn't change but your view (i.e. the rectangle) got narrower as the rectangle got smaller.

Now imagine taking the two views given by both rectangles and expanding them one at a time to fill your computer screen. Each will give a different field of view even though the focal length of the lens is the same. People always compare focal lengths against the field of view that would be achieved with 35mm film. The field of view achieved by a 50mm on a APS-C sensor is the same as if you had a 75mm lens on 35mm film.

APS lenses differ from FF lenses with their image circle. Lens designers will have the lens project a smaller circle to begin with because they know that the sensor will do some serious cropping otherwise. Why bother designing something that will be cropped? To understand this just draw a smaller circle inside your first circle. Make the second circle encompass the smaller rectangle. Keep your stick figure the same size.

The effect can be verified by mounting an APS lens on a film camera body. For example, try mounting the DA 18-135mm on any Pentax film camera. Zoom out to 18mm. What do you see? Yikes! 50% of the image along the edges is missing! Why? The lens was designed to cover an APS sensor instead of 35mm film.

Disclaimer : Many APS optical formulas are based upon historical designs which were tailored around 35mm film. That means there are APS lenses that would cover 35mm film. However, the performance at the edges is not guaranteed. It may be OK or it may be awful!

Note : Using a FF lens on an APS sensor will create a crop but it also induces a lot of optical performance strain on the lens. Aberrations that were once very small relative to 35mm film now become amplified on an APS sensor. Remember the exercise of taking the areas from the two rectangles and stretching them on your fixed computer screen? I'm taking a smaller area and expanding 1.5x more than the other.
Forum: Lens Clubs 04-05-2014, 05:42 AM  
DSLR fun with 28mm: Club for any 28mm lens
Posted By Tsuken
Replies: 1,016
Views: 151,241
I think my Takumar Bayonet 1:2.8/28 is my favourite lens for my K-30.

Curving grace by -Occasionally Focused-

Half a dandy lion by -Occasionally Focused-

... Or this one? by -Occasionally Focused-

Cool Cat Charlie by -Occasionally Focused-

Most or all cross-posted from my January and February "single in" challenge posts.

---------- Post added 5th Apr 2014 at 11:44 PM ----------

This was supposed to be in there too:

Pentax Sunrise by -Occasionally Focused-
Forum: Lens Clubs 06-01-2014, 08:42 PM  
DSLR fun with 28mm: Club for any 28mm lens
Posted By ultraviolet
Replies: 1,016
Views: 151,241
In camera HDR with Pentax-F 28mm f2.8
City of Edmonton, AB, Canada
Edmonton HDR by EmHena, on Flickr
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 02-24-2014, 10:02 AM  
K-3 + Mac/iPad users - help me test a fix for RAW files
Posted By tempelorg
Replies: 22
Views: 4,166
Apple has just released the "Digital Camera RAW Compatibility Update 5.04" with support for the K-3.

This solves the issue I had brought up here (well, it's not solved for the iPad yet, but my solution isn't helping there directly, either)

--------- the following is not an issue any more ----------

If you're using a K-3 and a Mac, you are probably aware of the fact that Apple's software (Preview, QuickView, iPhoto, Aperture as well as the iPad Camera Connection Kit) do not support the K-3's RAW files (neither PEF nor DNG).

The currently only solution known to me is to use Adobe's DNG Converter to convert the files into a format that Apple's software understands.

Now, the reason for this problem is just just a single specific byte K-3's DNG files, i.e. the "DNG Backward Version" field, which says that it requires software that supports version 1.2, and Apple's software seems to have a problem with this.

However, when I change this value from 1.2 to 1.1, then it works, i.e. iPhoto and Aperture can display the DNG files.

Sadly, it's not clear who is at fault here. Could be that the K-3's DNG files contain data that is essential to using the RAW files, and if Apple's software does not understand this new information, it does good to reject these files in order to prevent misinterpretation. However, it also could just be that Apple's software has a bug and can handle these 1.2 DNG version files just fine, and the rejection is a just mistake.

So, let's try to find this out empirically (unless this has already been done and I'm just not up to date?).

I've written a simple program that modifies the DNG files by changing this one value in the files. It does not change any image data - only a value that tells software whether it should be able to handle this file or not. The software makes it so that Apple's software accepts the file, that's all. And with that, it *seems* to work. However, maybe there are subtle tings that do not work. Let's find out.

You can download the program here: http://files.tempel.org/Various/Pentax%20K-3%20RAW%20Fixer.app.zip

Just start the program, then drag files into the window - it'll convert them immediately to the Apple compatible version. You can also revert them back the original version or just check the current version.

Then open them in iPhoto or Aperture. Also try a conversion thru the Adobe DNG converter and see if you find any differences in the results. I hope not, and that would be empirical proof that this fix works. It should be easy for Ricoh to apply this in a firmware update then.

(The advantage of this tool over using the Adobe DNG Converter is that it does not need to create copies of your DNG files, and that it's faster. Also, if this turns out to be a reliable solution, I can issue this "fix" to both Apple and Ricoh, maybe they'll be quicker to update their software then.)
Forum: Sold Items 01-09-2014, 12:12 PM  
For Sale - Sold: Pentax-F 28mm f/2.8 autofocus lens
Posted By dawsonjm
Replies: 4
Views: 1,744
Just a boost to this post. I have one of these "poor man's 31", and it goes with me everywhere. Small, light and great IQ, you can't go wrong!
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 12-08-2013, 11:59 AM  
HD DA 55-300 WR Lens Review In Progress...
Posted By Heie
Replies: 67
Views: 19,596
Currently working on the HD 55-300 WR in-depth review. I thought I'd throw it out to y'all to see if there are any specific requests for the review to better maximize it's potential (as well as to let you know it's being worked on ;) ). Before anyone asks, yes the smc version as well as the DA* 60-250 are being compared to the new HD 55-300.

Here's some lens porn for you, taken an hour ago ;)

Attachment 197707

For those curious, 2 shoot through umbrellas, 45 deg on either side. The camera is tilted up by the 60-250's tripod foot under the corner :)

-Heie
Forum: Pentax K-3 11-29-2013, 09:07 AM  
Landscape/nature photographers only
Posted By Rondec
Replies: 18
Views: 5,850
How big are you planning to print? That would be my question. I shoot a lot of landscape photography and the big difference that I see is that there is more resolution in the K3 photos. Noise really isn't a particular issue, since landscapes tend to be shot at low iso on tripod and stopped down.

That said, if saving money by getting a K5 II will allow you to get software for post processing and decent glass, I would get that one. Landscape photography really is more about light, subject and to a lesser extent glass, than it is about sensors.

K5 shot (not IIs).


Dawn on the White River by Vincent1825, on Flickr

K3 shot


Tucker Lake Dawn 2 by Vincent1825, on Flickr
Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 08-09-2013, 01:58 AM  
Viltrox JY-670 Ring Flash
Posted By McBrian
Replies: 20
Views: 14,666
Apologies for resurrecting this thread but I thought I would add a little info that may be helpful.

I’ve recently taken delivery of one of these and can concur with Rob that is does not work with the K5IIs, it will fire the first time the shutter is activated but won’t fire again, you have to dismount it or switch both off and on to get it to fire again.

However it works a treat with a K30 and that suits me fine as my K30 is setup as my macro body with a Katzeye split screen (uses the same screen as a K5, K5II/IIs). The unit is easy to use and is reasonably well built, and as has been mentioned it is a conventional flash, not LED’s (it has 2 LEDs for focus aid), has full adjustment from 1:1 to 1:128 in full stops or 1/3 stops, left or right tubes or a contrast ratio down to 1:8 either side, no P-TTL, it's manual all the way.

I hope this is helpful.

Regards

Brian
Forum: Pentax K-5 05-27-2012, 08:24 AM  
Figured out how to "space" on K-7, K-5
Posted By LXNights
Replies: 4
Views: 1,518
I have a K-7 body which I really enjoy using. Has a lot of useful features as you all know. One of the things that is very useful for pros and serious shooters is the Copyright and Photographer graphics you can embed on your images. When I looked at the manual on how to use it, I got through most of it and was able to create texts, with the exception of a space in between words. I must have gone through the instructions over and over and the book didn't really specify how to go about it. I came on the forums here looking for some help and even asked on a couple of threads and got no answer. Finally I called Pentax and asked a tech, and he didn't know either, but he thought he knew someone who might and after a few minutes, he got a K-5 camera body and we went through it together. As I suspected, it turns out to be pretty simple, once you have the right key.

Go into your custom features and check into copyright information. Select either copyright or photographer, doesn't matter which. Come to the screen that displays texting options. You'll have 4 rows to choose from as usual, starting with alphabet letters, numbers, then various punctuations and symbols. On the bottom row, there is a symbol that looks like a bracket that has been laid flat on the ground, right before the plus (+) key, THAT IS THE SPACE KEY. Use this key to put a space in between your seperate texts. I am not sure why the K-7 manual doesn't spell this out more, maybe using a small "SP" reference might have been more effective. I don't know if the K-5 manual does a better job of it, I don't have that body (yet), but I am certain the K-5 body works the same way, since the pentax tech I worked with used a K-5 body to figure it out with me.

For those of you that have posted about this or written about on the forum about it, no disrespect intended, but I just haven't seen anyone talking about it or got answers when I asked, so here it is. Hope it helps. Good shooting everyone, Pentax rules!
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 07-28-2013, 11:37 PM  
Cool Features You May Not Have Used
Posted By Class A
Replies: 39
Views: 10,273
This thread is about useful features that may only be found through reading the manual very carefully, stumbling upon them while using the camera, or finding them randomly on the internet.

I started with a few "Tips and Tricks" and then other posters contributed further ones. The below is a reorganisation of all the contributions.

These tips work on a K-5 II but I'm pretty sure most of them translate to other models as well.

Has anyone else got any tips that maybe be subtle but really useful?
If I find others myself, I'll extend my post here.

Focusing

Focus Priority on Demand
For both AF-S and AF-C one can choose between either "focus priority" or "release priority". I found out that by using the AF button, I can set the parameter to "focus priority" and thus get the behaviour I want by the press of a button. If I press the AF button and keep it pressed, I get the "focus priority" behaviour as configured. If I don't press the AF button, I get release priority. I had "enable AF" set to the AF button anyhow, but I think the above is one more reason to using the AF button instead of the shutter release half-press.

"AF-S" On Demand
Leaving the camera in "AF-C" means you can achieve "AF-C" behaviour by keeping the focus active and you can achieve "AF-S" behaviour by only briefly activating focus. According to Uluru, you can use this technique to even improve the accuracy of your results.

Focus Assist Light
Ever wondered why the AF assist light is not coming on? It could be too bright, but another potential reason is that the AF assist light won't come on in "AF-C" or "MF" mode. That may be the only disadvantage of the prior tip.

Poor Man's Quickshift
For lenses without a full-time manual override (aka "quickshift"), you may either flip the AF switch to "MF" or temporarily press the lens release button as long as you are manipulating the focus ring. I personally am neither encouraging or discouraging the use of the latter technique. It shouldn't cause harm. In any event, make sure the lens does not wiggle itself out of the mount while you are pressing the lens release button.

Exposure

Exposure Lock in Manual Mode
If you lock the exposure in manual mode and change one parameter, the camera will adjust the other one to maintain the same exposure.
This is great for flash photography with manual flashes where the exposure contributed by the flash only depends on the aperture but not on the shutter speed. It allows you to expose for the ambient light once, then lock the exposure, and subsequently dial in the right amount of flash exposure by changing the aperture, without constantly having to update the shutter speed as well, to maintain your ambient exposure. That's a really nice touch.


Camera Operation
Fast Menu Skipping
The back wheel steps you through the menu items one by one, but if you know that what you are looking for is in a different menu category then you can use the front wheel to skip to the next category. This speeds up navigation quite a bit.

Quick Mode Changes
When changing any function of the four-way controller (drive mode, white balance, JPG settings, flash settings), you can keep pressing the respective button to cycle through the options. Thanks to Adam and asp1880 for this tip.

Quick Access to Common Controls
If you switch off the "Status Screen" then pressing the Info button takes you directly to the screen where you can access common controls. This, for example, provides a quick way to switch SR on and off. With the "Status Screen" display turned on, one always has to cycle through three states and I much prefer the Info button to just enable/display the controls screen.

Image Review
You can select a quick zoom setting so that you can immediately zoom into a preview without going through the prior magnification steps and you can compare different shots at the selected zoom level by using the front wheel to navigate between them

You can use the OK button to temporarily enable/disable the histogram in playback mode, if the histogram is set to show up.

Partial Reset
By choosing your "memory settings" wisely, you can turn some parameter values into temporary ones so that they are reset when you power the camera off and then on again. This can help to avoid to shoot with "left over" settings unintentionally.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 04-10-2013, 01:05 PM  
"Ghetto" Lens Calibration Chart
Posted By EarlVonTapia
Replies: 7
Views: 3,010
I came across this post on PetaPixel a while back, but I sought it out again last night because my Tamron 17-50 arrived in the mail and I suspected it might need some AF adjustments done.

http://petapixel.com/2013/03/12/ghettoca-a-diy-lens-calibration-tool-for-mic...enabled-dslrs/

So I made the chart last night. It took all of 20 minutes. I used it today (at work, to kill time) and it was very helpful in letting me see how my Tamron was performing. The numbers on the ruler don't necessarily correspond to any sort of AF adjustment measurement (I think) but nevertheless the lines help you see what is and isn't in focus, and help you track the effect your adjustments are having.

I thought it might come in handy here since a lot of posts pop up relating to focusing issues.

And here's a shot of the chart in action:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/bq1zsdq4ztfqoa2/20130410_123404.jpg

Note: If you don't have a tripod/gorillapod handy to raise the level of your camera, you can just use a stack of magazines or books to raise the level of the chart and camera until they are even with each other.
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 03-28-2013, 09:51 AM  
DxO to support Pentax SMC DA* 60-250mm f/4 ED [IF] SDM
Posted By Canada_Rockies
Replies: 16
Views: 4,047
My laptop is ancient - Lenovo T60, Dual Core 1.83GHz. DxO is painfully slow if I watch it do its thing. Two image a minute is the timing.

On the other hand, my supply of Alexander Keith's India Pale Ale and the TV makes the wait not so bad. DxO will take my images from my K10D and DA-L 55-300 (to give it a good challenge) and do its thing at 2 images a minute for how ever many hours.

The big difference is that I don't need to do anything except turn it loose. I can reduce my reserves of Ale, mow the lawn, wash the truck, whatever ... while DxO works. Its speed doesn't bother me too much as long as the job jar has something in it, or the beer supply holds out.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-19-2013, 07:02 AM  
Normal lens for APS-C cameras
Posted By carrrlangas
Replies: 71
Views: 7,641
Sorry to contradict you, but if you read my other comment you will see that associating FL to normal view or not is not correct but instead you may think of the AoV that outcomes from that FL plus sensor size.

In 135 format (24x36mm), the diagonal of the sensor has 43mm. so, using a FL 43mm assures an image with normal perspective (does not compress the edges or expand the center) but never a normal view.
Normal view is associated with the angle of view of the human eye, which is about 40 (20 to each side of our nose). After those 20, the eyes ability to detect detail / color and contrast are drastically diminished BUT this may vary from eye to eye. So normal view is kind of subjective or at least, depends of each pair of eyes.

All this said, you are down right. Depends on what each of us is used to see as normal. But using a FL that equals the diagonal of a sensor should not be associated with view, but perspective.

regards,
Francisco
Forum: Pentax K-5 03-17-2013, 02:46 PM  
K-5 II vs. K-5 IIs Sharpness Comparison
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 103
Views: 23,099
The K5II would be the beautiful woman that would be inclined to ask if those jeans made her look fat, the K5IIs needs no validation and already knows it looks awesome.:lol:
Forum: Pentax Full Frame 03-15-2013, 12:34 PM  
Creative financing on the Pentax Full Frame
Posted By cheekygeek
Replies: 12
Views: 3,962


Click on pic to comment or fave via Flickr. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Forum: Sold Items 03-08-2013, 01:54 PM  
For Sale - Sold: Pentax Fa 28mm 2.8 auto focus lens PRICE REDUCED!
Posted By seventysixersfan
Replies: 11
Views: 1,572
why is this lens still available? this makes for an outstanding "normal" perspective on APS-C cameras, just a bit wider than 50mm and the f/2.8 is excellent for indoor and outdoor applications. I pair my F 28mm with a DA 15, FA 43, and DA 70, for an great lightweight and versatile 4-lens prime kit. I've also found that a 28mm prime offers enough of a different field of view from the 35mm lenses to justify having both around; it really doesn't overlap too much with the use of my FA 35 and there are times when I appreciate the wider perspective.
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 01-26-2013, 11:38 PM  
Monitor for Photo Processing
Posted By UnknownVT
Replies: 23
Views: 7,785
I recently went through the process of choosing a monitor specifically for photo post processing – this has taken me over a year of research to find something that was suitable, and inexpensive.
Hopefully sharing my experience may be helpful.

Many know that in LCD technology, the panel to aim for is IPS (in-plane switching) because it is capable of showing more colors/wider color gamut, and have wider viewing angles with consistent and accurate colors.

So wider gamut/more colors is desirable –
an examination of monitor specs show things like 82% or 72% gamut –
but without any indication of what gamut or color space.

Although it would seem more colors or wider gamut is better –
so is 82% better than 72%?
BUT 82% or 72% of what?

That's when I realized those figures do not matter -
what was really important to me was the ability to display 100% of the photographic working color space -
ie: 100% sRGB

Even a gazillion% gamut is absolutely useless, if it cannot display all the sRGB colors ie: 100% sRGB.

OK some may argue that a monitor would be superior if it can display AdobeRGB or NTSC color space(s) -
but only if it is 100% sRGB capable in the first place –
since the displayable end result for the web and most printers is standardized on sRGB.

Doing searches of 100% sRGB IPS – will find monitors, and some surprisingly were not very expensive.

That is when I realized that some of those monitors actually had an sRGB preset that set a factory calibrated 100% sRGB – this was better than expected –
since that virtually means separate monitor calibration was no longer as critical as it used to be.

This discovery was HUGE.

Were there differences in IPS panels? – well of course, only a few months ago there was general opinion that cheap IPS monitors were not really recommended.
3 Reasons Why You Shouldn’t Buy A Cheap IPS Monitor

So the LCD panel technology was important too – not just blanket approval of any generic IPS.

Fortunately we have currently many smartphones with stunning very high pixel density screens -
have some of this new technology made it way to computer monitor screens?

Those names were AMOLED (Samsung) and AH-IPS (LG).

As far as I know there are no AMOLED monitors -
BUT – there are AH-IPS monitors now.
and searching on AH-IPS finds that LG claims AH-IPS been certified by Intertek as having accurate colors (this is really important)

Searching for AH-IPS 100% sRGB does in fact find monitors and in fact some inexpensive ones.

Just to set the scene –
Dell UltraSharp U2713HM – this is a 27” screen, but at $650-700 street price - hardly cheap.

But there were also:

ViewSonic VX2270Smh-LED 22" Frameless LED Display

ViewSonic VX2370S-LED 23" Frameless LED Display

These actually were some of the lowest priced IPS monitors available.
This was like a dream come true – monitors based on the latest AH-IPS with 100% sRGB factory calibrated preset.

I bought the 22" ViewSonic VX2270Smh-LED since I have limited desk space, and prefer a higher pixel density.


The first thing I did so to set the monitor for 100% sRGB -
which was just a simple set on the OSD to sRGB - and that was it -

Then I went to the various on-line monitor calibration sites to check the monitor -
it passed any and all the tests I could throw at it with ease.

This is a handy reference page that collects together the most useful calibration sites -
5 Online Tools to Help Calibrate Your Monitor

That includes the sites that I had found the most useful:
Photo Friday: Monitor Calibration Tool
and
Lagom LCD Monitor Test Pages

Some of this has been discussed in the thread:
new Monitor Advice Please ( 1 2 3 ... Last Page)
starting with Post #37

Hope this was of some help.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 01-24-2013, 07:40 AM  
Which Lenses to take to Kathmandu
Posted By klkitchens
Replies: 25
Views: 3,118
Ask Bob Seger
Forum: Pentax Lens Articles 11-06-2009, 08:20 PM  
Sticky: DA lenses on Full Frame: Test Shots thread
Posted By architorture
Replies: 523
Views: 415,153
Hi all, I finally got my hands on a ZX-L recently, so I went ahead and ran a roll through to test some things - one of which was the coverage of the DA 12-24. I took pictures at each indicated focal length on the barrel and at f/4 and f/8or11 (I don't remember which). I did not remove my b+w wide angle slim clear filter - the effect looks like it would have been marginal anyway. I left the hood off. No tripod:o.

I have not made any even mediocre scans yet - all I have is the crummy noritsu minilab scans from the photo place. But I still thought it would be useful. In about 6weeks or so when I have some time I will make real scans.

Nevertheless, it looks like the lens gives full coverage from 18-24mm, however the corners are very blurry at 18mm & f/4.

click on the pictures to see them larger (as big as the crummy noritsu scan)

f/4

12


15


18



20


24



f/8(or 11?)

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