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Forum: Pentax Price Watch 06-11-2020, 11:16 PM  
Topaz DeNoise AI - $20 off, plus an extra 15% off. Free upgrade for existing owners
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 8
Views: 508
Thanks Adam. I just did go ahead and purchased it. I currently have the trial that will expire in a couple of days. It has worked well enough to warrant a purchase, but I do wish that it afforded a bit more control - it seems to be somewhat heavy handed. It has two operating models, the denoise model works better than the second model that they have included. I'm using it on the output of my K1, night images shot at 5 minutes, ISO 400 to 800, at f4 using LENR in pretty much total darkness at midnight. I have some other images I want to try it out on, in particular ones with out LENR where I have an over abundance of K1 white dots. I've just been a bit lazy here.

One item to note. I'm using it on my laptop which only has the embedded graphics engine on the CPU chip. I really had to dig out the instructions on setting it up to run on this configuration with out a dedicated graphics card - getting around the Windows 10 configuration. Without a graphics card it takes about 2.5 minutes to process a K1 raw file.

I have not used the DXO utility at all.

:cool:
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 05-30-2020, 12:47 AM  
A comparison between modern digital lenses vs analog vintage prime lenses.
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 5
Views: 744
The gentleman had come up with his favorite vintage prime replacements - the vast majority being Pentax Taks
















You Tube




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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 05-25-2020, 07:56 PM  
Astrophoto anomaly
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 21
Views: 1,105
All the user modes like landscape, ..... , astrophoto, etc. are essentially best guesses that come standard on entry level camera of all brands. Astrophotography is the most unforgiving of these types of photography. It's pretty difficult, mainly because there is precious little light available. The best way is to essentially wing it the old fashion way with manual and bulb settings. Give the GPS astrotracing a try for the milky way - it works very well.

The Pentax astrotracing is especially good for milky way imaging, since it's pretty well suited for wide angle lenses. The longer the focal length lens you use, the shorter the duration. I can easily get about 5x the standard shot duration with astro tracing at 70 seconds as opposed to about 11 seconds. Going with a longer duration I get star trailing in the corners which is a function of optical distortion of wide angle lenses. Going with longer focal length lenses beyond 85mm, I haven't tried.

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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 05-25-2020, 12:28 AM  
Astrophoto anomaly
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 21
Views: 1,105
Evening, I have a friend who shoots with a K70 and we both shoot astro a fair amount. So, let me provide some background first so that all of this makes sense.

A year ago, I saw that a local camera shot was sponsoring a 3 day astro class for $99. Friday evening 2 hour class, Saturday night on location class 5pm to midnight and Sunday afternoon post processing session. The instructor shoots for Arizona Highways. She starts off saying, that she doesn't know why half of us are taking the class since we have as much experience as she, but to pair up with folks with the same camera brand, who are new to this. Anyway, Saturday evening we're on location and about 11pm a guy drives up and sets up his stuff right next to me - he just got off of work. Turns out that he just picked up his K70 the week before. He had read the manual twice and had a 28/f2.8 lens, and had shot the first 20 images of his life with a dslr. So, we started talking since we were the only two who shot Pentax. He shot several frames and they were beginner ok frames. By that time some folks left and we moved to a better location. I pulled out my gps astrotracer and mounted my 18-35/f1.8 lens on his body, calibrated the setup and he shot a wonderful milky way over picket post mountain image. He was ecstatic. We have been shooting together ever since.

I shoot with a K1, so I looked up "Astrophoto" User-Mode in the K70 manual. It really didn't provide any of the setting parameters, and he never uses it. That's as much as I know about it. However, having said that - this is how we shoot and it works quite well. You haven't said if you are using the gps astrotracer and if you are doing milky way with landscapes or deep sky. So, I'll assume no gps for this.
  • Switch to "M"anual or "B"ulb mode - This way you will have complete control over the parameters you set. The light meter is useless at night, so the other modes will try to evaluate the scene based on no information, so just by pass them. The main difference between Manual and Bulb mode is that with Manual mode you can only set the shutter duration up to 30 seconds. With Bulb mode you can exceed 30 seconds - take it up to minutes if you wish.

  • For framing, we crank the ISO up to something high 10,000 and above, aperture wide open, with a shutter speed of about 1 second. Take a look at the image on the rear screen and adjust as needed (be it landscape or just stars). If you don't see anything, increase the shutter speed, until you see something. You can also check focus here.

  • For Focusing, (put the body in manual focusing) find something bright in the sky, enable LiveView and zoom in to 16x, then use the arrow keys <>^v to get the bright object into the rear monitor. Adjust the focus until it is nice and sharp. Take another frame to check everything out.

You should be ready to go now.

We usually start out at ISO 800 to ISO 1600, wide open aperture (f1.8, f2, f2.8) depending on the lens. With ISO 800 you will get a bit more color in the milky way. We have gone as low as ISO 400 with good results. ISO 800 seems to be optimal on the K70 (which kicks in the Accelerator Chip at ISO ~630 which will help with noise). For a shutter speed, you can use two different approaches:
  • 200 Rule - Take the focal length you are shooting at 200/focal length = the shutter speed in seconds. 200/18 = 11 seconds

  • I like to use this website ---- Night Sky Photography Shutter Speed Calculator – With the K70, the crop factor = 1.5, megapixel =24, focal length = (your lens), pixel tolerance = (I use anything between 4 and 10, the smaller - the sharper the stars will be). This will provide 3 shutter speeds, I just take the largest value. So for 1.5; 24; 18; 4 provides 11.3 seconds or just 11 seconds.

_____________________________

Focusing alternative methods.
  • During the day - focus on something say 1/2 mile away, and tape the focus ring on the lens down. Make sure that you are in manual focusing.

  • Illuminate something far away with a flashlight, or place the flashlight on something and walk a far distance away and focus the camera.


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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 05-20-2020, 01:10 AM  
AstroTracing & High Voltage Transmission Lines
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 11
Views: 674
I agree, the problem will not be with the position fix, but the pointing (electronic compass). I think that I'm probably one of a few to run into a potential problem like this. I guess we'll just go find out what works and what doesn't.

The lines are between the PRS and GPK substations on the map (page 10 of 227). It's the 230KV leg into Phoenix.The grazing range is on BLM land, and there is a sign on the fence to "go enjoy". So, we will see. There is a public access road, but there is also a gate along the highway (a couple of hundred feet off the highway). We haven't decided if we are going to just try to hop the gate off the highway - or drive up to cross road and take the dirt BLM access road back down. At 70, I'm no longer hopping over a lot of gates any longer.

I usually shoot stitched, so that I wind up using only the centers of each frame, which essentially removes the edge/corner distortion on wide angle lenses. Either 2 or 3 frames is sufficient for this.

I've used Sequator several times before. It works well. I do like this link a bit better than the rule of 200. They are close, but I also cheat and use a pixel tolerance of 4, which is a bit less forgiving.

The steel towers are 1800 feet and 800 feet away respectfully, as the location is somewhat between the two. The backup is my friend has in addition to the o-gps1 unit, a tracker unit that we can put the bodies on, and get around the problem. Although I like the astro tracking a bit better - as I hate aligning trackers.

Actually, I'm hoping that there is sufficient height to the lines, that there is sufficient distance - where all of this will just average out to not being a problem. This was something of a unique situation that I thought I would post and ask if anyone else had happened across a similar situation.


I will....

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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 05-19-2020, 05:10 PM  
AstroTracing & High Voltage Transmission Lines
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 11
Views: 674
My physics classes were 50 years ago - long in the tooth and getting greyer. GPS multi-pathing should not be a problem. The towers are about a mile apart, and it takes large flat faced structures to get significant signal reflections. I was one of the original GPS engineers back in the mid 70's, and have done a fair amount of GPS since.

It's really about a half an hour up the road. We saw it last weekend on the road trip up to Sedona to shoot. It looks like there really are two problems - both electrical field and the magnetic field. If there are problems, we can just shoot the old fashioned way with a single frame rather than tracking. Also, my friend has an equatorial tracker, that we can use also. Personally, I just like the no hassle approach with the astro calibration.



Thanks!!!! :cool:
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 05-19-2020, 01:21 PM  
AstroTracing & High Voltage Transmission Lines
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 11
Views: 674
A friend and I are thinking about going out this next weekend to shoot the Milky Way (we had probably the best shoot possible last weekend up in Sedona at Cathedral Rock). The particular location we were considering is an old Windmill and water tanks off the highway - in the middle of a large grazing range (Bureau of Land Management (BLM) property). The one drawback is that, there are high power lines running about 35 feet away from where we would need to shoot (about 70 feet away from the windmill/tanks). We can calibrate any distance away, and then walk over to the shooting location, but does anyone have any experience in terms of actually shooting (maintaining calibration with the electronic compass working [K1 & K70 with O-GPS1]) in near proximity (35 feet) to high power transmission lines. The lines appear to probably a full set of 230 KV lines out of Parker Dam to Phoenix.
___________________________
I went back to Google Earth and measured again. We would be almost directly under the lines. See the image below, red X marks the spot. In the second image, you can see the windmill in the center with the transmission towers on both the left and right sides of the frame.

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Forum: General Photography 05-17-2020, 05:23 PM  
First Time Panorama Stitching
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 5
Views: 475
Yes, Affinity does handle stitching quite nicely. I've found that all the stitching utilities do quite nicely, each has its own strength and weaknesses, that then to come out over time and the various image sets that are given to process. Microsoft ICE is a free download and is also easy to use.

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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 05-17-2020, 05:17 PM  
Is the K7 worth recommending?
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 31
Views: 1,391
The K5 is substantially better than the K7 (which shares its sensor with the K20D - depending on use can be a bit noisy). With both old K mount lenses and M42 lenses, he should have a wide assortment of inexpensive glass from which to select.

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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 05-11-2020, 03:13 PM  
CCD vs CMOS Sensors - Which do you prefer for "Colors"?
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 41
Views: 2,810
Years ago, right after getting my K5 - I just (gently) tossed everything in the pickup and headed off to the Grand Canyon, getting there right before sunset. I shot something like 80 frames (bracketed) with the K5 and it died (shutter motor Pentax told me on the warranty repair). However, fortunately I had brought my K100D and Q along with a new pack of AA batteries. I switched over to the K100D for the rest of the evening.

The next day - I was post processing the take, the K5 images were really nice, great resolution and everything. When I got to the K100D images my heart somewhat sank a bit as they actually looked a tad bit better and nicer. Different lighting, different scenes - but overall the CCD images just had that un-explainable positive difference about them.

I still have the K100D and my K5 - actually, I probably need to shoot with them a bit more - come to think of it....

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Forum: General Photography 04-16-2020, 03:34 PM  
Photographer can’t sue a website for embedding her Instagram post, says court
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 8
Views: 806
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-25-2020, 09:07 AM  
Pentax 70 - 210 vs Tamron 70 - 210 | Lens Review
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 113
Views: 6,541
I happened across the review last night (or earlier this morning) as it was just posted and I was going to bed. Most of the comments beg the question about copy variation, QC standards, testing approaches - what ever, but Pentax, and all the other camera/lens manufacturers aren't providing any additional information.

Cameraville appears to be one of the few that actually buy$ their own len$e$, as opposed to getting loaners. Lens Rentals also buys theirs, but to rent out, so they do have (the need for) multiple copies that enable them to actually look at sample variations across the various brands. It would be nice if Cameraville (or anyone else, who) could score a couple of additional loaners from B&H, Adorama, Amazon, Pentax - whomever, in order to take a look at copy variation. That said, Lens Rentals is the only one (out side of the manufacturers themselves) who has the capital ($100K+), need, and interest to have (access to) the testing instrumentation (along with the testing expertise on the instrumentation) to actually quantify the copy variation.

One would hope that Pentax is occasionally looking here and over at Cameraville (appears to be pretty much the only other site) that does any reasonable level of reviews and comparisons of Pentax products.

So, does Tamron cherry pick, luck of the draw, sample/copy variation, level of Pentax QC inspection (rejection rate) and their QC standards/acceptable sample variation standards? I just saw that one comment as interesting speculation, one poster's opinion. Within QC standards? Acceptable image quality? With in copy variation standards? I don't know -

I would think that if this lens is sufficiently important enough to Ricoh and the Pentax brand/reputation, that some level of corporate interest would/might be expended on the topic.

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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-25-2020, 12:35 AM  
Pentax 70 - 210 vs Tamron 70 - 210 | Lens Review
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 113
Views: 6,541
The new Pentax didn't fair so well against the Tamron - especially on the long end. One of the comments suggested that Tamron did all the glass manufacturing themselves, keeping the best for their build and providing less than perfect glass for the Pentax build. So, read the comments.
















You Tube




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Forum: General Photography 03-24-2020, 08:49 PM  
5 Creative Photo ideas using Kitchen Items
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 0
Views: 1,625
Not mine, but I thought that it was interesting....
















You Tube




:cool:
Forum: Pentax KP 03-17-2020, 09:55 AM  
KP for landscape, long term usability, and good lens
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 40
Views: 2,400
Good Morning, The difference in weight is centered in several areas.
  • Mag alloy body - The metal magnesium alloy body does weigh more, no doubt about it,

  • Weather Sealing - it does take a bit more physical structure to hold the seals, not a lot - but there is some additional machining around the various parts of the body to seal up the unit.

  • Mirror box and Optical viewfinder - The mirror box, mirror and the optical viewfinder's pentaprism together does consume volume and weight. The optical viewfinder consists of a solid hunk of optical ground glass that moves the image up from the mirror, flips it over and turns it around for the user's eye to see. A pentamirror viewfinder is lighter (not solid, just a set of mirrors that perform the same function, but can get dirty, where as no dirt can get into the pentaprism. So that does weight a substantial amount. There is an up side to the pentaprism's weight. Out in the field, you don't have to turn the camera on - consuming battery power, when checking out a shot or composing an image. An electronic viewfinder, is a small TV that you look into. It too takes power, you have to have the camera on for it to work, and it introduces latency (something in the scene moves, and it takes the electronics to register it and displays it on the TV). But, I would still recommend carrying an extra battery.

  • IBIS stabilization - The in body stabilization system, does consume a bit of weight, in terms of additional metal structures and coils around the sensor, that allows the sensor to be floated in a magnetic flux so as to move and remove the physical vibration of the camera (stabilizing the image).

Bottom line, there is no perfect camera - so you just have to choose the problems you want to live with.

Here is a comparison of the fuji bodies to the KP. Evaluation and scoring is somewhat subjective in terms of the weighting that is used. A number of capabilities on the KP are not listed - like an intervalometer, and the KP's ability to dial in extremely long exposures - beyond the standard 30 seconds, etc.In terms of repair - yes, Pentax uses Precision Camera, however they also service Nikon, Olympus and Sony. I doubt that they will be going anywhere. Also, if they do go out of business, Pentax would just find another repair facility to use. It's not something I would worry about. I would also purchase a Pentax extended warranty. It use to be $20 for an additional two years, but now it's $10 (I thought that they raised the price)? However, included is a sensor cleaning (which is usually $60 - so at 2 years, 9 months or so - just send in the body for your free sensor cleaning).Do camera bodies break - well, yes. All consumer electronics (and a DSLR or mirrorless is essentially a computer with a lens stuck on the front) suffer from infant mortality. Electronic infant mortality is a failure of the electronics early in the products life span. Usually if an electronic item is going to fail, it will fail early in its use curve - hence the warranty. I usually never buy warranties - however for a camera body, I do - for 2 reasons: 1) peace of mind; and 2) the sensor cleaning/system checkout - since that essentially pays for the warranty.

Retail stores - Essentially, Pentax has become a web company. Their products (other than B&H, Adorama, Samy's, etc. and a couple of other brick and mortar places) is available across the web (Amazon, etc.). With Pentax, you are going to be dealing with mail order.

Oh yea - before I forget, I was going to toss in one additional lens to consider. The full frame k1 kit lens - the DFA 28-105. Yes, it's a kit lens, but a very suburb kit lens - fully weather sealed, and its image quality is outstanding. It punches waaaaay above its weight - and it's very light. You seem to be using 24mm and wanting to go longer, so this will get you there in terms of some telephoto. For wide angle, using this lens - I would just go with stitched panoramas.

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Forum: Pentax KP 03-16-2020, 07:11 AM  
KP for landscape, long term usability, and good lens
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 40
Views: 2,400
Morning - Here is a youtube video on the differences across JPG images - straight out of the camera with factory settings. The takeaway idea here is that Pentax does nothing to degrade the JPG image in terms of image quality for their factory settings.
















You Tube




Also, here is a website that compares JPG with Raw - that has comparison images, that may be helpful. Regardless you are comparing 28 vs 214 When you bring in color (red, green, blue) the numbers expand, but you still have the same relationship of JPG loosing 97% of the information.Here is a comparison of the KP to the Sony and to a Fuji - the guy shoots Nikon professionally















You Tube




















You Tube




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Forum: Pentax KP 03-14-2020, 12:09 AM  
KP for landscape, long term usability, and good lens
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 40
Views: 2,400
Evening, I'm going to take a slightly different approach to answering your question. I have a K5 and a K5IIs (also a K1 too, but were talking crop here) that are now 10 and ~7 years old. Same magnesium alloy body construction as the KP. Probably about 10,000 and 5,000 frames on them. The KP should last you quite a while. I would not worry about the Pentax build quality.

For a lens, you might consider the DA 20-40 Limited. It's a short zoom, very mild wide angle to very mild zoom, small and light with a excellent image quality.

Pentax has always been noted for their overall image quality. They have always been able to pull more performance out of Sony sensors than Sony has been able to do.

I would also like to touch on the topic of the JPG format. In various comparisons of the factory set JPG standard output, Pentax's JPG is panned next to everyone else - Canon, Nikon, Sony, Fuji, etc. The other brands tune their JPG output to sell cameras. Bright, colorful, sharp, punchy, etc. (and by doing this the other brands degrade their overall image quality). Pentax tunes their JPG output to retain as much information and image detail as possible.

Now, you can tune/tailor your JPG output (on the camera body setup) to your heart's content to have it match whomever else, which is fine. However, I might suggest that if you are going to shoot JPG, shoot JPG+Raw. Why? The JPG format is destructive. Once you make a change, you can never go back - you loose information. That is the base characteristic of the JPG format. JPG is an 8 bit format (you only have 256 colors/tones), where in with RAW you have 14 bits of color information (16,384 colors/tones). By storing your camera's output in JPG you are losing (throwing away) 97% of the image's captured information. Normally, it doesn't matter on most days, with most images. However, where it does matter is in the shadows, and being able to recover the image details within the shadows, along with the wider color tonal changes and transitions. By shooting in JPG+Raw - you get the best of both worlds, getting a quick JPG image right out of the camera, but also having the RAW file should you ever want to go back and process your images with out destroying any of the information and bring out the best of the image and its image quality.

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Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories 03-12-2020, 02:57 PM  
Asahi-pentax-repronar ?
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 9
Views: 846
I have a set of slides from 50+ years ago, that came my way while in the Navy on board ship that we were decommissioning for modernization. I pulled them out a couple of years ago and sent them off to be digitally copied, and the results were OK, but I was actually hoping for better (they were flat, shadows yielded no detail and post processing didn't improve them at all). I've been toying with the idea of possibly trying it myself with the K1 using Pixel Shift or even bracketing - but I haven't been convinced that the results would be any better.

Anyone have some experience?

Anyway, an interesting bit of equipment....

:cool:
Forum: Pentax KP 03-10-2020, 06:51 PM  
KP for astrophotography?
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 14
Views: 1,450
A friend of mine (using a K70) who I go out shooting Milky Way astro with uses the Sigma 18-35/f1.8. He is usually shooting ISO 800, f1.8 at 70 seconds with astrotracing (using the O-GPS1). Sensor wise the K70 and KP are the same, both using the new Acceleration chip. The Acceleration chip in both the K70 and KP kicks up the dynamic range of the crop sensor cameras to pretty much equal the K1 (original). He gets excellent star color and definition. The only suggestion I would add is to get a spare battery or two, especially if you are going to shoot all night. The full articulating screen on the K70 really makes it easy to use.

The Rokinon 16/f2 and the 14/f2.8 are also good.

:cool:
Forum: General Photography 02-29-2020, 03:38 AM  
Move Over, CMOS: Here Come Snapshots by Quantum Dots
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 2
Views: 636
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 02-24-2020, 01:43 PM  
Medium format transparency duping?
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 3
Views: 543
Has any one used Pixel Shift in slide replication? The real question is does Pixel Shift pull out any additional information from the dark areas on the slide?

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Forum: Pentax K-1 02-21-2020, 12:11 AM  
AF on K-1 and K-3?
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 26
Views: 1,390
Evening, Just in case, let me go back to the beginning on focusing. DSLRs have two separate focusing systems - one through the viewfinder and one with liveview (which is essentially the same approach as mirrorless cameras utilize). I'm going to assume that you are finding that the bulk of the problems is using the viewfinder.
  • Viewfinder - The light comes in through the lens, bounces off the mirror and up through the prism viewfinder to your eye. When you autofocus, there is a hole in the mirror, that takes part of the light and ricochets it down to the bottom of the camera where there is some AF circuits that figures out if the image is in focus, and if not, commands the lens to adjust the focus (out or in) to bring it into what it thinks as "in focus", then it takes the picture.

  • LiveView - Again the light comes into through the lens, and since the mirror is up (preventing the use of the optical viewfinder), the light goes directly to the sensor, where the sensor detects focus, commands the lens to adjust focus, then captures the image.

The difference between the two is that liveview is right off the sensor, so the image is AF on to the sensor, and the focus should be perfect. With the optical viewfinder, the AF circuits residing on the bottom of the camera need to be aligned / calibrated so that when the AF circuits believes the image is in focus, it will really be in focus on the sensor. If not, the camera (K1, K3, etc.) has a fine tuning calibration process that you can do for each lens. The camera body has the ability to store these calibration data for 20 individual lenses.

A simple test would be to put the camera on a tripod or flat surface, AF with the viewfinder, take the picture. Then with out touching a thing, put the camera into LiveView, AF and take the picture. Then on your PC view each image - where the liveview image should be in perfect focus, and the viewfinder focused image may be a tad off. This is refereed to as either front focusing or back focusing. With front focusing, the area in front of where you actually focused is in sharp focus and the rest of the image is off. With back focusing, some of the area behind where you actually focused is in sharp focus, while where you actually focused is off.Third party lenses can have AF problems. The Sigma 18-3/f1.8 lens optically is a great lens, but individual copies are notorious for having AF problems (across Canon, Nikon and Pentax). The third parties have to reverse engineer each AF lens system for each camera brand. This usually works well, but sometimes - it doesn't work as well as intended.

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Forum: Ricoh Theta 360° Cameras 02-20-2020, 01:11 AM  
Review: Which Is The Best 360 Camera for Photography & Virtual Tours? EARLY 2020
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 1
Views: 1,857
Insta360 One X vs. Theta Z1 vs. Kandao Qoocam 8K vs. XPhase Pro S. ---- Right now, both reviewers choose the Theta Z1.
















You Tube





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Forum: General Photography 02-19-2020, 02:05 PM  
Is the poor video support in DSLRs going to ensure their early demise?
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 105
Views: 2,765
I'll just toss my 2 cents in on the topic. I shoot stills, and that's my main interest. Video has been there as an un-necessary add on, but there none the less - until the need arose. My son needed to change his career due to becoming allergic to his old one (chef becoming allergic to all fish / shellfish).

In returning to school for OSHA Safety Engineering - he needed to do a presentation for one of his classes - and he found that he needed to do a little demonstration video. So, having the video capability - even a rudimentary video capability, came in very handy (and way beyond the quality of a smartphone - although that would have done fine for this effort).

Dark environment, large sensor and an excellent fast lens - the K1 coupled with the old Auto-Tak 85/f1.8 at ISO 400 on a tripod, and the video results were excellent. I didn't need 4k, HD was more than sufficient (and surprisingly the audio was ok - didn't need it, but very acceptable). Actually, I've been seeing articles that folks are finding that 4K is large, unwieldy and expensive in terms of post-processing, that HD is more than good enough.

In retrospect, I'm happy that Pentax has a video capability, that it's usable, and that for what it is, that the results are excellent.

:cool:
Forum: Pentax Full Frame 02-15-2020, 05:28 PM  
Poll: Why did you go full frame?
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 151
Views: 6,476
My plans were to stay with the crop body, and just continue shooting my K5IIs, waiting for the K3II replacement. I really like my K5IIs for most everything. However, I retired a couple of years ago, and was somewhat frustrated with getting better/more star color in my Milky Way over landscape shots. With a lot of contemplation, I thought that if I was driving anywhere from 1 to 3 hours one way out to get to a location to shoot, and with the new crop body no where in sight - and counting up what was in the piggy bank for a new body - I decided on upgrading to the K1 (this was before the mark II was announced). I needed more light collection with better dynamic range. I really only shoot at ISO 800 for my astro stuff (I don't need to go any higher). So, now I'm able to capture the star colors in the Milky Way - and satisfied.

The full frame lenses I had acquired over time all had varying amounts of coma (for astro use) or were not fast enough, so with some looking I found a 15-30/f2.8 to pick-up about 2 years ago. This last Christmas, I sprung for the 28-105 "kit" lens, which has some really excellent image quality. I want to mod my 60-250 for the rear light baffle - and that these three will be my main lens set. I do have some good primes, but I'm set.

I don't need higher ISO, or shallow DoF, but did need some better dynamic range at lower ISO (for better color), and just a larger sensor area for more light collection. I will say that the articulating rear screen is really nice to use for astro, and the built in GPS makes things much nicer.

I have one of the old K shift (perspective correction) 28mm lenses (that when fully shifted and stitched provide a 15mm shifted stitched image), that now captures full frame and is pretty nice to use, to get better architecture shots. I also have two converted older Contax Zeiss primes (28 and 85) that now have the full sensor projection, that provide some really excellent image quality.

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