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Forum: Pentax K-70 10 Minutes Ago  
K70 aperture block?
Posted By photogem
Replies: 34
Views: 1,631
I wouldn't sell my K70 even if the danger of solenoid failure would be as risky as with the older K30/50's (which i don't think is the case!):
The repair is easy and straight forward, all that is needed is either a solenoid from an older DSLR Pentax (from *ist to K-x or K-r) or one buys it on ebay.com.

But no daubt, the KP is the better camera.
Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2 13 Hours Ago  
K-S1 case disassembly
Posted By photogem
Replies: 6
Views: 640
Thanks, that made it clear, it was my misunderstanding, not you!


With your K100D or K-x you could have possibly 2 white solenoids inside (more likely with your K100D). In the EU many K100D and those following it had already the green solenoid inside the flash compartment but it might be worth finding out (and letting us know!). If you find a white solenoid there, you can exachange it with the green one from your K-S1 because the green one never failed in the flash circuit. Several times I did so when I found a white solenoid there (50% had the green one there).

The sanding method can eventually lead to further damage. the plunger tilts slightly and strains the sensitive mechanism more.
Not worth it because the K-S1 is a great little camera.
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50 14 Hours Ago  
K-30 / K-50 Aperture Block Failue - Repair Solution available
Posted By photogem
Replies: 862
Views: 131,638
Can we please stick with the theme:

K-30 / K-50 Aperture Block Failue - Repair Solution available
Forum: Pentax K-70 15 Hours Ago  
K70 aperture block?
Posted By photogem
Replies: 34
Views: 1,631
I don't think so.
When Ricoh noticed the problem the K-S1 and K-S2 where already out.
They could not change the design anymore, it would involve not necesserely a rise in voltage but a rise in milli-amperes (or both). This is why often (at least for a while)
the K30/50/500 would work with Eneloops, because they allow higher surge.


Sometimes people even noticed that the problem with the Li-Ion battery was stronger when it was fully charged.


I strongly believe the engineers found out too late, for a long time hoped it would not be that big and when it finally turned out that it was big, it was too late, the K-S1 and 2 were in the shops! I also believe that they then already did something, there was a massive "outlet sale" of K-S1's and K-S2's on the EU market (particular Germany), I believe they took new ones back into repair and modified something and sold them as ex-dem units!

Usually it is not engineers which make wrong decisions, its the econo-mist (mist in German = dung!)
But the engineers get slapped! They are forced to follow "those, who don't know a thing" but "pretend to know everything"

---------- Post added 03-19-19 at 01:43 AM ----------



Because repaired at Pentax.

With all K70's repaired and reported in Germany Ricoh wrote that it was the "Magnetschalter", which is the German translation for solenoid (magnetic switch)
Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2 15 Hours Ago  
K-S1 case disassembly
Posted By photogem
Replies: 6
Views: 640
Isn't it the top-part where there is this flexible PCB ribbon-cable (like with all Pentax bodies).

The difficulty is that both, the K-S1 and K-S2 have the front-cover quite stiff connected to the top-part and back-part (with the LCD)

so taking it off involves extra force to losen it. The top-part should just be lifted about 1cm, thats enough. This gives enough space for:

- getting the front-part off easier
- having enough access for the screwdriver and the soldering-iron-tip for unsoldering the solenoid to exchange it with the white solenoid (made in Japan).
The only true solution. Grinding/Sanding is... well.... like the russian soldering method... kind of rough... and leads to further problems which I will show soon
with photos.
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50 15 Hours Ago  
Sticky: Dark exposure problems on K-30 or K-50? Discussion Thread
Posted By photogem
Replies: 282
Views: 38,812
That is the problem when you use google translations, they can give odd translations.

In the EU and Switzerland there are 2 years warranty. So any failures would not have been made public because people sent their cameras back for warranty repair.
Actually Ricoh Germany extended this warranty usually a bit longer, so this is why the first complaints where made about 21/2 years after the K30 and K50 came out.




Because the issue became known (particular with members of forums and those previously having owned K30/50's) first failures have been this time reported during warranty time, but of course repaired at Ricoh due to warranty. With most repairs it was stated that the solenoid had been changed!

---------- Post added 03-19-19 at 01:23 AM ----------



I have seen the KP open, it is a stepper-motor!




I have an email from a Pentax representative stating it is as you say.
I have as well an email from the same representative stating that the aperture control of the K70 is different.

At least as far as I can tell it the block looks slightly different and the screw holding the solenoid is now on the left side.
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50 1 Day Ago  
Running K-50 firmware on K-30
Posted By photogem
Replies: 173
Views: 32,315
The solenoid with the aperture block is not in action at all when you use the 55-300 PLM lens!
But if you then use it again with another lens the solenoid might be more stuck.
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50 1 Day Ago  
K-30 / K-50 Aperture Block Failue - Repair Solution available
Posted By photogem
Replies: 862
Views: 131,638
Good idea! Huge difference between the both.
And the K10D was a workhorse. I still have one!

K200D was nice as well. Good for those who wanted ooc jpegs.
Forum: Pentax KP 1 Day Ago  
Any KP's with Aperture Block Failure?
Posted By photogem
Replies: 11
Views: 414
The solenoid being in a 45° angle would not be able to work!
Better have a closer look at the posted photo there

Maybe you can notice that there are no screws nor a plunger on the solenoid!

The person who did the repair unscrewed it to take the plunger off.

If you would have followed this thread (just be looking at it, no need to understand, pics speak so-to-say for themselves) you might have come across
This foto showing the solenoid in position.

The guy there did the "dreaded" grinding method, in the Pentax K30 part I shall post soon some photos showing why this sanding method is not to be recommended: The plunger when in action tilts with a noticable degree and brings too much force to the complicated mechanism.

If one undertakes the repair, then best with the white "made in Japan" solenoid only.
Forum: Pentax K-70 1 Day Ago  
K70 aperture block?
Posted By photogem
Replies: 34
Views: 1,631
The mechanism has been modified, it is similar but not the same.
You can see it HERE .

The screw which fixes the solenoid sits now on the left side (which will not affect the way it works).

According to the Japanese Head of Ricoh France the design has been changed.

Nevertheless a few K70's have failed.
Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2 1 Day Ago  
Another K-S1 Aperture Block Failure
Posted By photogem
Replies: 20
Views: 1,109
Not the only difference but:

1. Holding force of the early DSLR white made in Japan solenoid is not as strong
2. Material: White solenoid is made out of teflon (PTFE): better bearing abilities
3. unknown: Material composition (alloy) of the plunger
Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2 1 Day Ago  
K-S1 case disassembly
Posted By photogem
Replies: 6
Views: 640
Addition:
Take the battery out and leave it standing for 48 hours, then the flash capacitor shall be discharged.
The pop-up-flash will pop open without battery!


Otherwise: Thank you!
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50 1 Day Ago  
K-50 / K-500 Aperture Solenoid fix (DIY with pics)
Posted By photogem
Replies: 255
Views: 42,617
I have uploaded 2 photos to show why the flash-condenser by all means should be discharged

and
why the top-part of the K30 and all others should be lifted:
K-50 / K-500 Aperture Solenoid fix (DIY with pics) - Page 17 - PentaxForums.com
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50 1 Day Ago  
Sticky: Dark exposure problems on K-30 or K-50? Discussion Thread
Posted By photogem
Replies: 282
Views: 38,812
You have those options:

Replacement with a second hand K5II or K5IIs (if you don't use the 55-300 PLM and are not going to use it!)

because those are pretty similar in size to your K30 but more robust and better in low-light.
I will never give away my own K5IIs. The K3 or K3II (no flash!) is larger, heavier and not really better but different. But allows the use of the PLM lens!
You can sell your broken K30 for around 80Euros on ebay France but make it available to the whole of Europe.
A 2nd. hand K5II can be found for around 300-350 Euros.


Repair: Do you feel you could do it yourself? If you don't have 2 left hands you might be able to.

The only Pentax APS-C bodies which do not have the solenoid but a stepper-motor are:
K7, K-01 (not an DSLR!) K5, K5II, K5IIs, K3, K3II, KP ( I would not recommend the K7)

Solenoid you find in:

K30/50/500, K-S1, K-S2, K70 (also in older ones but there you would be safe, but know now your K30, so the K5 is of similar but different quality,
the K5II is superior, as are the others of course.

As weight seems something you care about, be careful with the K3, it is bulkier and that bit more heavy. I can handle it but prefer the size of the K5 series.
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50 1 Day Ago  
K-30 / K-50 Aperture Block Failue - Repair Solution available
Posted By photogem
Replies: 862
Views: 131,638
No, Pentax K10D, K20D and Samsung GX10/20 have only 1 solenoid. But it works perfectly. But a bad idea to sacrifice a working one because it is still a mighty good body. I prefer the K10D to the later K20D. There are plenty of damaged *ist bodies to be found on ebay. But if somebody offeres it with:
"Flash does not open" and "dark photos only" you should be alarmed.
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50 2 Days Ago  
K-30 / K-50 Aperture Block Failue - Repair Solution available
Posted By photogem
Replies: 862
Views: 131,638
Very simple solution:

Open your wife's K-r carefully, only the top: If it has the white solenoid in there, you could exchange this one with the green solenoid from your K30.
The green solenoid never failed in the flash*

This is an easy option. But never ever take the white solenoid out of the aperture mechanism (or only if you are willing to sacrifice the K-r).
It will not work with a green solenoid, even if the sanding/grinding method is applied.
At least thats what I found out with a working K-r: It immediately developed the mirror-flop problem!


* The green solenoid never failing in the flash-circuitry shows of course what nonsense the "failed capacitor theory" is!

If one understands how a capacitor behaves when o.k. of damaged, it must be obvious, that there can't be any self-healing magic nor any magic via crystall- or other oracle-balls:

If a K30 works with:

Eneloops
white solenoid
and even (for a while) with a sanded solenoid

how on earth did this capacitor all the sudden "repair itself"...

Of course there are socalled self-healing capacitors, but they either really "heal themselves" i.e they won't all the sudden "go on strike" when they smell "Li-Ion-battery-power" but all the sudden come alive when they smell "NiMH (Ene-loop) power" !
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50 2 Days Ago  
Sticky: Dark exposure problems on K-30 or K-50? Discussion Thread
Posted By photogem
Replies: 282
Views: 38,812
The problem will get worse in time.


Of course for the time being you can try using "AA-Eneloop" batteries with an AA-Adapter such as this one
or this one

But in many cases I know of the problem did return. The longer one uses the Pentax with a damaged solenoid the more you take a risk that it will be beyond a permanent repair. Every time the camera fires and the solenoid stays stuck it puts some strain to it because it tries to function but can't.


Where are you now? In USA?

We had a similar situatíon recently here and somebody offered to do the repair for a person.
Maybe you are lucky and find this kind of help as well.

Just make sure you have the "made in Japan" solenoid built in and not just another China made one!
The made in China one in many cases fails again.



Good luck!
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 4 Days Ago  
K30 random underexposure problem
Posted By photogem
Replies: 134
Views: 35,860
Maybe, just maybe you did damage the shuttermechanism with this "simple + quick hack",
at least you yourself claim it as a possibility

It would be kind to warn people then and not just leave this possible "way to distaster" open to others to fall into this trap as well, don't you think so?
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50 4 Days Ago  
K-50 / K-500 Aperture Solenoid fix (DIY with pics)
Posted By photogem
Replies: 255
Views: 42,617
well observed... he should indeed correct his errors to keep others from following such critical advice.
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50 4 Days Ago  
K-50 / K-500 Aperture Solenoid fix (DIY with pics)
Posted By photogem
Replies: 255
Views: 42,617
It wasn't me who claimed this but it was you.

You started this thread and wrote, that it happened after you applied the grinding/sanding method.

There was zero mentioning of this (not so good) modification (?) of your lens! One cannot know about it as long as you don't mention it.
You did write about it but in this completly different thread:

K30 random underexposure problem - Page 9 - PentaxForums.com

The way you describe your K30 did not develop the mirror-flop problem after you "modified" your lens (which I would not recommend to do at all)


The mirror-flop came after you changed the solenoid.

Look, this is not and never should be any personal competition.
It is just that one must really know what one is doing with all those repairs and modifications.
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50 5 Days Ago  
K-50 / K-500 Aperture Solenoid fix (DIY with pics)
Posted By photogem
Replies: 255
Views: 42,617
I don't think so.

The user doing it the first time needs an as precise as possible guidance for zero damage to his Pentax.

If the Top-Cover is lifted (but not removed!) there are only advantages, zero disadvantages.

With the top-cover not lifted there are one disadvantages plus danger for damage.

The user doing it for the first time with wrong guidance will have the danger of exactly the result you got:
Damaged K30 (or similar)!

So why mislead?

As you said, you can't remember. Then this is vague advice!

And led to damage in your case because you did it wrong!
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50 03-12-2019, 04:12 AM  
Sticky: Dark exposure problems on K-30 or K-50? Discussion Thread
Posted By photogem
Replies: 282
Views: 38,812
well, as a German you can read ... and translate what was written:

One member guesses (!) that he recalls (and later refers to) a comment he read here on pentaxforum.com i.e. the comment #502 by Jeff Lopez.

It is the guessing of somebody who never opened a Pentax K30 or similar.
Maybe you can post a photo of it so we can see which white solenoid was in this K30?

And maybe then you can also show us where there is this capacitor which might have gone off?

Strange thing is: if a capacitor is off or not working anymore, why then does it work with Eneloops?

And even more strange: Most Pentax DSLR bodies with a failing green made in China solenoid catch this problem with low shuttercount. All the sudden they don't work anymore.

But alas....even much more simply:

If one inspects the Diaphragm Control Block :
Where the heck can you detect an condensor there? One could searched with a magnifying glass: No capacitor either.

On its back side? BAD LUCK . No condensor.

I have 5 diaphragm Control Blocks here, so even statistics prove: No condensor. Not even an homeopathic dose.


So for a long time Pentax/Ricoh has repaired the shutter-problem via replacement of exactly this complete diaphragm-control-block (including the solenoid)
..... and the bloody thing worked... for a time, usually about a year and of course we only know of the reported cases where it went wrong again.

Why would it work for about 1 year and then fail again?
If there is a damaged power-supply or a damaged condensor it would not work anymore right away... right?


And why did the white made in Japan solenoid never go wrong in any of the pre K-30 DLSR cameras?
And in the K20D and K10D it was fed with a Li-Ion battery, not Eneloops!

As well as in the K-r, which was the first of the consumer series which could use Li-Ion.

The K-r had the white solenoid built in.

Well, I made once the test, I took out the white solenoid and built in the sanded green solenoid which had failed in a K30. I had tested it working in the K30 and then for fun it went into the K-r: The K-r right away produced mirror-flop! So I built a white made in Japan solenoid back in, it was alright again.

And why to all K30/50/500/K-S1/K-S2 etc. all the sudden work perfectly right with the white solenoid?
Well, of course except yours.

But maybe it wasn't a white solenoid from a DSLR but from a CD-Rom drive!
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50 03-12-2019, 12:10 AM  
K-50 / K-500 Aperture Solenoid fix (DIY with pics)
Posted By photogem
Replies: 255
Views: 42,617
No, there are no differences between the flash capacitor of the K-30, K-50 nor K-500: All have it exactly on the same position.

Yes, the two pins are well protected, this is not where one would receive a shock.

There are exposed contact points right on the open flash-circuit board, if you touch here you get a very unpleasant shock. See attached photo:



Have you ever looked at the size of a discharge probe? You wouldn't want even to touch any contact (soldering-) points on the circuit board.

I was silly enough when repairing a few K-30's and K-50's to think I could do it without uncharging the capacitor. But I was mistaken. I got shocks until I realized the culprit isn't the flash-condensor itself. The condensor just delivers the high voltage with enough amperes to give you enough of a shock that you might damage your camera.



With all due respect but this is one of those advises one should not give!
Why lead people into unnecessary danger?
Why lead people to doing something the wrong way and thus possibly doing final damage to their cameras?


1. it is not about how you feel about this capacitor. It is about safety and doing it right!

- Either leave the camera a few days without battery so the flash condenser discharges itself

or

- discharge the flash condenser!



(Or you wear gloves-- best boxing gloves:fedup: so you don't get a shock and then good luck with precision soldering:eek:!

2. and again, with all due respect:

It is the most silly thing not to "lift" the top cover! It is leading others to possible damage!

If not lifted:

a) much worse access to the solenoid for secure soldering
b) the top cover holds the front-cover in position, one has "to wiggle and fiddle" to get it out and will have it pretty difficult to get the AF/C/M switch into the correct position. A few have reported about their difficulties of aligning the inner and outer part of that switch! The assembled their body and afterwards found out the AF/C/M
switch didn't function anymore, the AF would not work!
Because the rod of the screwdrivemotor was jammed! If one then tries and tries because one hasn't understood why the AF doesn't work one possibly could damage
the AF Motor! Too bad then.

So again:

- The top-part slides over the front part

- It holds it in position

- It seals it (K30/50/S2 are WR!)


- it carries the external part of the AF/C/M switch which has to align with the inner part which sits on the main frame and can only align with ease if the front part can be assembled straight, i.e. parallel to the main frame:


If the top-part is not lifted, this is not possible!


Then you have to push and pull the front part under it with an angle!


It is even more so with the K-S1 and K-S2:
With those you can bend a fragile metal part on the inside of the AF/M switch which has to align with a very tiny tolerance into the inner part of this switch. If bent: Very difficult to bend it back into position! It just should not happen but your advice will almost guarantee that it will bend
Because with both, the K-S1 and the K-S2 the front part is much stronger fixed (almost clamped) to the top-part, it takes much more force to get it out anyway. So not to lift the top-part is almost a guarantee that you will damage more than you repair. And yes, the flash concensor sits on the other side and yet you can recieve as much a shock if you touch it the wrong way.

I mean look at your own repair! Something went very wrong!

You applied the sanding method.

Afterwards for whatever reason you had the mirror flop issue, i.e. your K-30 was beyond repair.

Photo 1 shows the flash-condenser K30 (K50 and K500 are identical):
Red marks on the + Plus contact of the flash-condenser itself as well as on that spot where the blue cable is soldered to: +220Volts DC !!!
Photo 2 shows the rims of the front-part. Those rims have to slide under the top-part (that's why it must be lifted up) and the back part with the LCD.

If the top-part stays in place there are two problems:

- The left wire on the solenoid is too close to top part, difficult to unsolder the wire.
- But worse: the top-part cannot be assembled parallel to the inner body but with an angle. The AF-C-M switch will not go smoothly into its counterpart
Further photos will show this in detail.


Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-11-2019, 10:40 AM  
Screwed over again!
Posted By photogem
Replies: 23
Views: 1,083
He's trying to trick you. There is nothing you can do after you changed your feedback!

You tell him that you will change feedback "AFTER HE HAS REFUNDED YOU!"

You also can even write more in your feedback now (but not after you changed it):
Sign in or Register | eBay

I would write here exactly what he tries to manipulate you into now!
Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2 03-11-2019, 07:03 AM  
Getting aperture control block on my K-S2 :(
Posted By photogem
Replies: 111
Views: 8,350
I did understand it this way and totally agree. I think only AF-C can be critical for some, I never use it, so this would not bother me.

Then by all means... you have the advantage. It is straight forward, few hidden screws under the rubber, the K-S2 is the only Pentax body where you don't need to
take the screw out in the battery compartment, flash is a bit tricky to get to (for discharging it), it is on the other side, so battery out, let it stand for a week and don't
open the flash with the battery in.

Better not to go for the solenoid from the MZ50 or any other MZ, they are that tiny bit different, but any DSLR from K10D up to the K-r will do.

Don't take any solenoid from CD/DVD-Rom drives either, most have different impedance, some a different holding force, every solenoid was built to demand and specification. But all from the DLSRs I mentioned are guaranteed 100% identical and never failed.


I explained this HERE .

My experience with a lot of repaired (also sanded versions) K30/50/500/K-S1/K-S2's (I have repaired all of them) is exactly that:
DIY with the mentioned solenoid is the only 100% save long term solution.

Well, one shouldn't say 100% because any part can fail, even a white made in Japan solenoid. But they have never failed in any of the mentioned K-DSLR's nor was there ever reported a failure. When you have taken the green solenoid out of your K-S2 and then compare it just by pulling the plunger out of each several times...
I'd say everybody with some sensitivity will notice very clearly the difference.


So good luck! For you it should be peanuts.
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