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Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 01-30-2015, 06:17 AM  
B&W Darkroom: Water as Stop Bath?
Posted By HGMonaro
Replies: 12
Views: 4,747
Same as Chris, water for film, indicator stop for prints. However, sounds like your water needs decent filtration otherwise I'd be using distilled/deionized for my dev/stop/fix/wash as once you get crap on your film, it's very hard to get off!
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 01-30-2015, 06:13 AM  
film puzzle
Posted By HGMonaro
Replies: 13
Views: 1,236
I did one (Kodachrome 64) recently that I've worked out was 30-35 years old.

Did your roll turn out really dense or nothing at all? Really dense it might have been Kodachrome, nothing at all... then maybe was some B&W
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 09-17-2014, 11:53 PM  
HD PENTAX-DA 16-85mm F3.5-5.6ED DC WR
Posted By HGMonaro
Replies: 917
Views: 146,480
Haven't read whole thread but I used/still have the 16-45/4 for my Pentax (K10D, now K7) and the one thing that used to drive me nuts was the 45mm end... just not long enough... but the 16mm side had me in it's grasp! So, when I bought a Nikon to bolt on the back of my newly acquired 2nd hand (from here!) 100-300/4 Sigma, I bought the 16-85 Nikkor. Perfect travel/general purpose lens for me. I don't need a wide aperture for this kind of use, increased ISO capabilty covers that. Actually thinking about this, my Nikkor isn't perfect as it's not WR... this Pentax is going to be... maybe it's my perfect travel lens!
Forum: Non-Pentax Cameras: Canon, Nikon, etc. 06-15-2014, 11:33 PM  
A portable 4x5 for travel
Posted By HGMonaro
Replies: 36
Views: 4,813
I'm also a 'backer'. Pretty confident it will turn up.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 04-04-2014, 03:37 PM  
Just Picked Up a Bunch of Darkroom Stuff & Looking For Advice!
Posted By HGMonaro
Replies: 5
Views: 1,794
equipment wise you have it covered.

generally speaking, these are the goods ones in that lot. Use the 50mm one for enlarging 35mm fil, the 80mm for MF. You can use the 80 for 35mm but the projected image size will be smaller for the same enlarger head height. This can come in handy when making smaller prints. You won't be able to use the 50mm for MF film as it won't cover the whole negative.

start with this with your 35mm film, check underneath how much liquid it uses probably 300ml

for film you need
1. Film Developer
2. Stop bath / water
3. Rapid Fixer

for prints you need
1. Print developer
2. Stop bath (indicator stop bath is best, it changes colour once it's worn out)
3. Rapid fixer

Film and Paper developers can be powders or liquids. Powders you mix up the whole packet into a stock solution and dilute that into working solution. Liquids you dilute only the amount you need from the concentrate to working solution. If you use a powder (eg D76/Xtol) then store the stock in smallish bottles and they will last 6mth to a year. My current Xtol is over a year old and still working (not much developing been happening in my house!). All the dilution ratios and development times are on the packets, or find find the Massive Development Chart webpage. Generally, you use film developer 'one-shot'. You mix up some working solution, use it and discard it. To start, I'd recommend a liquid concentrate. Get whatever's available, HC110 is a good one to start with.

For film, a couple of rinses in water is fine or you can use a stop bath. Stop bath can be reused and the easy to use ones come as what's called indicator stop bath. They change colour once they wear out.

Film and Paper fixers can be the same, but keep seperate working solutions for eash as they are usually different dilutions and you don't want any contaminats from paper getting near your film. Film fixer can be reused for a set number of films before discarding. You can test the leader to make sure it good but I keep track of how many films I've used and discard before it's due. Paper fixer is similar but keeping track of how much you've processed it the easiest way of knowing when to replace. Paper developer can be reused but it goes off quickly. I keep it if I know I'll be back in the darkroom in a day or so, otherwise I discard it.

Probably as said above, got better ones over the years and never got rid of the old ones. Look in my cupboard and you's see the same thing :)

get on Ilford's website (Harmon Technology) website, there's lots of info to get you started. Sign up to APUG and read...

Cheers, Nige
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 12-06-2012, 05:12 PM  
finding a better lense than Sigma AF 100-300mm f/4 EX DG HSM APO
Posted By HGMonaro
Replies: 12
Views: 2,363
I always had a thing against Sigma as I'd only ever seen/touched their low end stuff which is truely horrible. After not being able to source a Pentax mount 100-300/4 I bought a Nikon one (off this forum) based on the glowing reports they get, and purchased a camera to suit. Very happy with it.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 11-28-2012, 10:33 PM  
Need Help - 8mm film single frame print?
Posted By HGMonaro
Replies: 18
Views: 9,590
my thoughts... a DVD copy of the 8mm film is going to be DVD quality at best unless they can extract a HD version (something to ask before getting it done). A frame taken from a DVD will be the DVD resolution... not great. A HD source will be 1920x1080 at best, DVD most likely 720x480 (something like that) in a NTSC world. Making a print from that will be bad at best, but more likely to be terrible if you want it bigger than a postage stamp! looking at the actual size of a frame of 8mm (4.8 x 3.5mm according to Google) then scanning it at 4000dpi with a film scanner would yield a 755x551 pixel image... about DVD quality!! (although the quality of those pixels might be better depending on the scanner). hmm thought it might be better than that. Enlarging 4.8x3.5mm of film optically, if my calcs are correct, a 10x8" print would be like marking a 46" enlargement from a 35mm neg... that's not going to look good! Taking a macro shot of the frame using a digital camera might be the best way to get the resolution needed for a decent sized print. What this shows is that moving images don't need to be high resolution to entertain! :) Any method is going to very dependent on the quality of the frame on the 8mm film. A better likeness might be obtained by one of those guys that sketch charactertures of you at tourist attractions...
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 11-27-2012, 05:57 AM  
sd cards lock tab fell off
Posted By HGMonaro
Replies: 7
Views: 5,316
old thread but googled it so might as well add my bit...

Have a 8GB Sandisk Extreme III that the lock tab fell out of. Popped it back in but the K7 won't play nice with it. PC read/deletes files on it and it works in a Canon S95 p&s. Haven't tried it in other available cameras but putting it back in the K7 doesn't work. Sandisk site says it has a lifetime waranty but you need the original invoice, which I won't have :( winge over...
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 10-14-2012, 10:45 PM  
Help with chemicals
Posted By HGMonaro
Replies: 18
Views: 2,490
Do you mean 'deep' tank or 'small' tank?

There are developers suited to 'deep' tanks (generally requires replenishment techniques to be used to maintain the developer in a suitable state) but some developers would not be suitable for such usage.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 07-30-2012, 11:45 PM  
Switching from the K-5 to D7000; Am I overreacting?
Posted By HGMonaro
Replies: 131
Views: 15,966
I bought a D7000 as an upgrade to a K7. Reason I didn't go a K5 was I couldn't buy a Sigma 100-300/4 in Pentax mount and I didn't trust the 60-250/4 Pentax's SDM (probably not an issue but hey, it's my money!). Purchased the Sigma of these forums for a decent price.

here's some of my thoughts on some of your questions...

AF on the D7000 is light years better than the K7. AF-C actually works! I also have the 16-85 VR Nikkor and it also performs well.

Maybe I don't know the Nikon interface well enough yet, I but much prefer Pentaxs menu system.

I use 3200 regularly and it looks better than 800 on my K7 (that I would only use at 1250 in desperation)

K7 much quieter, but in use, I don't care (not a wedding tog!)

I already had several old Nikkors :)

I have found I've needed to bump the sharpness of .jpgs, just like the Pentax

I much prefer the D7000 size. I have a cheapo grip on the K7 just so it's easier to hold on to.

So far I'm pretty happy with it. I think the Pentax's auto WB is better, that's one thing the Nikon gets a bit wrong on early mornings (low contrast) at my sons footy matches! Clean up nicely on the computer but I'd prefer it get it right in the 1st place! Also, the mode button can be moved easily... that's caught me out a couple of times.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 06-25-2012, 10:12 PM  
Bulk film loading?
Posted By HGMonaro
Replies: 38
Views: 9,037
I used to do 30's as is fits on a 8x10" proof sheet (5 strips of 6 exp) with no mucking around trying to line them up.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 06-07-2012, 10:39 PM  
Mailing 120 film
Posted By HGMonaro
Replies: 3
Views: 1,632
not that I post them anywhere, but I use the little M&M or Skittle continers/tubes to protect 120 film in my bag.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 06-04-2012, 11:47 PM  
So if I were to pick one brand, Ilford?
Posted By HGMonaro
Replies: 8
Views: 3,917
Looks like you've priced up a bulk loader and 100ft rolls... buy 2 and fill one with FP4 and the other with HP5. Get a good supply of reloadable canisters and by the time you've finished the rolls, the bulk loaders have paid for themselves. Buy secondhand loaders and you'll be way in front. What this does though, is lets you roll some short rolls for when you only want to use a few frames of 'slow' or 'fast' film.

For film developer, I agree a liquid concentrate mixed one shot is ideal for starters. Here in Oz DD-X was always priced silly so I only used it occasionly when I had some Delta 3200 to process. Once opened it lasted ok. Ilfosol was terrible, no idea about the lastest Ilfosol3 version as never used it. I found LC29 to keep well once opened and used at 1:19 dilutions pretty economical. Not as economical as Rodinal 1:100 but although I have used that a fair amount, I've never really resonated with it (for no particular reason... I did a test once between D-76, LC29 and Rodinal and I could see differences in 8x10 prints but my prints weren't optimised for each and since the differences were so small I quickly lost interest!). I still have Rodinal for day I get around to using the APX-25 I have squirreled away. Looking at the info sheet for Ilfotec HC, 1lt of that is going to dilute to a lot of one-shot developer! I'd be inclined to grab the 500ml bottle of Ilfosol3 (works out to be $8.50 for 5lts of working solution) or the DD-X ($17.95 for 5lts of working solution). That's good for about 16 rolls of 35mm film.

For paper, I agree with Ilford Multigrade RC Pearl as being a great starter paper. I personally don't like glossy RC papers (air dried FB is nice). If you use this then I reckon any developer is fine. You might find a no name (Arista?) brand is fine. Once again a liquid concentrate is easiest. Pick the cheapest. If you start using warm tone papers and FB, then the developer seems to make more of a difference.

Hypam is rapid fixer. No idea what's the difference with 'rapid fixer'. Probably the same stuff!

A quality ND filter should be fine regarding image quality.
Forum: Photographic Technique 06-04-2012, 10:35 PM  
How Do I stop...
Posted By HGMonaro
Replies: 15
Views: 2,102
you need to meter the background and set exposure to suit that, then alter flash power to expose the foreground appropiately. Probably difficult to do in auto mode but would involve at least using AEL and most likely lots of (negative) FEC
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 05-29-2012, 11:33 PM  
Help for a B&W film newbie
Posted By HGMonaro
Replies: 11
Views: 1,621
What size bottle of developer did you buy? The collapsible bottles I have used (for mixed print chemicals) were 1lt but I gave up on them as they always sucked in air over time.

you can buy 250ml bottles of some developers. Ilfosol used to be one of them. I stopped using this due to how quickly it goes off once opened. I use to find LC29 was a lot better in that regard.

I only use 300ml. Some people suggest to put the unused reel in as well to make sure the one with film doesn't move up the centre column while inverting the tank during agitation. I've never had that problem and my Paterson tank is 30odd years old. I also like to keep the other reel dry in case I want to do another film straight after the 1st.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 05-28-2012, 09:45 PM  
Help for a B&W film newbie
Posted By HGMonaro
Replies: 11
Views: 1,621
My answer to this is to temper a bucket of water to 20ēC before starting developing. Use it to mix up your developer then for water rinses. I keep a 2L jug in the fridge to be able to lower the temp. Having a largish amount means it will take longer to be effected by the ambient temp. I measure the developer temp before pouring it in, then near the end of the development time (I admit I do this a bit 'seat of the pants') usually 2mins from the end of the time. This lets me check the developer hasn't got hotter, and if it has, to stop development a littler earlier. If it's gone up less than 1ēC then I'll probably do nothing, but any higher and I'll stop development earlier. As mentioned above, if you have wild temps use a water bath to sit the tank in in between agitations. If you need to develop at different temps, Ilford have a chart to work out the required times at different temps.

Once mixed, powdered developers will start to deterioate, however unmixed they tend to have good shelf life. Handy if you don't have a local supplier and need to order several at once. Some liquid developers have good shelf life, others terrible. The recommendation for Rodinal equivalents is probably a good one if they have similar qualities to Rodinal, which keeps for ages. A common recommendation for when mixing up a powder into 'stock' is to store it in little bottles topped right up (little or no air).

Ilford specifically recommend not using a pre soak with their films. Read up on the theory.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 05-28-2012, 08:18 PM  
Issues with Reversing Lens for Macro
Posted By HGMonaro
Replies: 7
Views: 1,506
One aspect not yet mentioned is the physical damage the reversed lens is susceptible too. That rear element is not protected by a filter or lens hood and depending on lens design, could be protruding. Since these reversed combinations also generally give very good subject/film magnification ratios you will probably be putting it very close to your subject and there's a real danger of bumping into it if you're not careful.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 05-17-2012, 10:50 PM  
As Pentaxian, if you were to jump ship, Nikon, Canon, Sony, or?
Posted By HGMonaro
Replies: 215
Views: 17,004
In some parts of the world, for example this one, there are 10 fold more Nikon manual focus lenses than Pentax anythings. I was using my 30yo Nikkors on my D7000 just yesterday. Pretty painlessly too (although I would like a green button!!)
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 05-17-2012, 05:23 AM  
As Pentaxian, if you were to jump ship, Nikon, Canon, Sony, or?
Posted By HGMonaro
Replies: 215
Views: 17,004
I just picked up a D7000 to go with my Sigma 100-300/4 (bought off this site!) and there's a lot of K10D about it... size (I don't need a grip for my pinkie like the K-7 needs), buttons on the left of the LCD (I liked that about the K10D rather than the K-7's setup) but there's a couple of annoying things, the menus are not good as the Pentax (although I think there are more options) and you can't make it beep when focusing manual focus lenses (you need to look at the indicators in the viewfinder but that isn't too good cause it means you have to look away from the scene). It also over-exposes IMO, I've already settled on -1/3 for general use however, overall pretty happy with it (did I mention a Sigma 100-300/4). Was using both cameras tonight and managed to use both without too much drama.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 05-09-2012, 05:46 AM  
HP5+ bulk turned out to be APX 100...
Posted By HGMonaro
Replies: 4
Views: 1,410
Yeah but 'push' development doesn't do a huge amount at the best of times. You increase contrast but your shadows won't magically appear. It's going to be underexposed no matter what you do. I reckon your best not to 'push' the hell out of it, increasing contrast to a point where it makes it hard to (wet) print. By using Stand development your compensating as well as you can I think. Scanning my be slightly different. How's your printing ability... that will get a work out :)

Have you posed this question at APUG, there's nothing they don't know about film development!
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 05-08-2012, 04:31 AM  
HP5+ bulk turned out to be APX 100...
Posted By HGMonaro
Replies: 4
Views: 1,410
Rodinal 1:100 :)
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 05-08-2012, 04:26 AM  
When do you turn SR off?
Posted By HGMonaro
Replies: 69
Views: 6,599
generally OFF, so that I don't forget about it and have it ON when using a flash... which usually ends up in double images...
Forum: Pentax Film SLR Discussion 04-24-2012, 04:56 AM  
MX light leaks - help please
Posted By HGMonaro
Replies: 1
Views: 1,446
have a look at the negs... if the over exposure goes outside the image area (i.e across the edges/rebate) then it's most likely the rear door.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 04-18-2012, 01:18 AM  
Lady in need of help
Posted By HGMonaro
Replies: 12
Views: 1,392
I had this running once... never had a reason to use it however so can't really help other than....

please confirm that the firmware was applied to the camera... your posts are a little confusing.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 04-16-2012, 11:21 PM  
What's your best lens that you never use?
Posted By HGMonaro
Replies: 73
Views: 6,879
I have a variation on this theme, lenses, good or bad, that I don't use for various reasons...

Mamiya 645 80/1.9 & 150/2.8 - Highly desired 'premium' versions of common focal lengths. I have the common 80/2.8 & 150/4 in my bag because they are lighter and use a similar size filter, that matches the 55/2.8. I carry a 45/2.8 as well but rarely use it... which reminds me I don't think I've used both a 2X TC or ext tube I have for this system in anger either... ohh, and the winder that's been attached to the camera but never wound a film!

Nikon F-Mount- 24/2.8, 105/2.5 & a 'new to me' Sigma 100-300/4 (also have a few other F-mount lenses but these are my favorites). I don't have a Nikon dSLR yet... waiting for 'D400' announcement to decide between that, a D7000 or runout D300s. Have been using the Sigma on my K7 with a crappy adaptor and have managed some decent pics but hanging out to get that Sigma on a camera intended for it. Also have a Tokina ATX 80-200/2.8 (push/pull - man focus) that might get a reprieve as I bought that just before getting my 1st dSLR and have hardly used it with my film SLRs.

LF - I have 90/135/210mm (all f5.6) lenses for my 4x5 Field camera. I think I've taken 2 pictures with the 90mm, and didn't like either of them! I continue to carry it and the required, but annoying, bag bellows around.

I did manage to give away a couple of enlarger lenses but still have a couple of them I don't use.

In the Pentax world I bought a 18-35 (I think) to take on a holiday not wanting to take my beloved 16-45/4 (was worried about it getting stolen... I took my old K10D instead of my new at the time K7). Took a couple of test pictures and decided it was so bad I quickly bought a 18-55 'kit'. Ended up selling the K10D and 18-55 and have yet to throw the 18-35 against a wall (just to see what happens!)
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