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Forum: Repairs and Warranty Service 4 Days Ago  
DFA 150-450mm needs repair
Posted By disasterfilm
Replies: 114
Views: 12,938
Late comer to the news in this thread, but I would 100% advise against anchoring a strap with all contact bearing on the 150-450 tripod foot.
The photos in this thread give plenty of evidence that the foot is not capable of withstanding excessive force.

I had the same thing happen to my D-FA foot, like @vegasdenny's photos in that thread indicate.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 10-08-2020, 07:01 AM  
Thumbnails in negative
Posted By disasterfilm
Replies: 14
Views: 649
OK so I think I've figured out technically what is happening, but not why or how it's happening.

The image on the left is getting the RGB channels improperly mixed.

The red and green channels are getting displayed as pure grayscale.
The blue channel is being shifted to the red channel.

If you want to replicate this in Photoshop to check, open up the file, then create a new Channel Mixer layer.
Under the "RED" panel, set the Values as follows - R: 33%, G 33%, B 33%
Under the "GREEN" panel, set the Values as follows - R: 33%, G 33%, B 33%
Under the "BLUE" panel, set the Vales as follows - R: 100%, G 0%, B 0%

Here's a side-by-side. On the left is the incorrectly-displaying image, and on the right is the properly-colorized image with the Channel Swap applied.



It's not a 100% match, but it's pretty dang close.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 10-04-2020, 09:37 AM  
Problem with fine focus tuning
Posted By disasterfilm
Replies: 13
Views: 624
I'm leaning on my past failures to think about other potential sources for inconsistency.

Is your tripod set up on carpeted flooring?
I had a hell of a time the first time I tried this, because as I continued to fiddle around my feet were always in different spots around the tripod feet. Well, my fat a** was compressing the carpet padding right next to the tripod feet - sometimes the front feet, sometimes the back. The amount it pulled the tripod forward or backward was imperceivable... but well within the visible range of one of those fine tuning target scales.

Moving to hardwoods made a big difference in cleaning the variability up. It also helped because I could use the plank lines as straight and perpendicular lines to arrange the camera and the light stand that held the target scale head-on and oriented perfectly perpendicular to the camera.

I also moved to a no-touch approach. I was using back-button focus, and was wondering how much the mild application of pressure was affecting the results.
So I turned BBF off, and went with a wired shutter cable for calibration until I was done.
Forum: Pentax Price Watch 10-02-2020, 05:55 PM  
New K-1 Open Box Kits on Ricoh Site
Posted By disasterfilm
Replies: 19
Views: 1,587
Thank the maker they're sold out. I said if they were still here by the time I got home there'd be one on its way to my door.

I don't need one at all.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 09-19-2020, 07:20 PM  
Astro - sell the Sigma 10-20 f3.5 for a prime?
Posted By disasterfilm
Replies: 25
Views: 1,889
The Rokinon 24mm. It partners with my Sigma ART 35 for early-season shooting, and the Rokinon 20mm when the MW is more vertical.
They're all absolutely fantastic lenses. They partner with the K-1 and especially the astrotracer very, very well.

Also in my stable is the Roki 10mm f/2.8 and 16mm f/2 for crop cameras. I frequently shoot timelapses with crop cameras alongside the giant K-1 images, and star trails with a 3rd camera and the 10mm.

The Irix 15mm has replaced my Roki 14mm f/2.8, which will roll up for sale as soon as I get off my butt and take product photos. And they're all also supplemented by a Tamron SP 14mm f/2.8 too, which I've surprisingly never shot in an astro setting.

It's usually a hike in to where I'm going, so I make an effort to minimize weight (haha carrying 3 cameras, 3 tripods, 3-5 lenses, and 2 light stands), so I get lazy and don't bring 2 similar lenses to compare them. I just stick with what I know will work well.
Forum: Repairs and Warranty Service 09-19-2020, 12:39 PM  
DFA 150-450mm needs repair
Posted By disasterfilm
Replies: 114
Views: 12,938
This thread is nightmare fuel, and has 100% affected how I behave when using this lens.

In transit it's now fully supported in a backpack, even if I'm only walking 20 feet over.
And I'm keeping it in its padded case or hard case (sometimes both) at home.
Not to mention I keep the tripod foot detached all the time now, up until the moment where I'm mounting it on a tripod. And only for those moments.
And only adjusting the pan/tilt/elevation at the tripod foot to reduce torque on the lens/foot interface.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 09-19-2020, 12:27 PM  
Astro - sell the Sigma 10-20 f3.5 for a prime?
Posted By disasterfilm
Replies: 25
Views: 1,889
OK so a couple of nuggets I've trial & error'd myself into understanding -

1) The wider you shoot, the less effective your astrotracer is going to be. Even with perfect calibration, extended exposure times are going to have pronounced star trails in the edges and corners still. The wider you're shooting, the worse it's going to be. It's one of those ugly things about taking the real-life vision dome that we see, and projecting it to a flat image plane.

On APS-C, I've found 14mm to be the widest where it's still kind of effective. By 16mm, the effectiveness is greatly increased.

Plus, the wider you shoot, the less you're emphasizing the more spectacular bits of the Milky Way. In fact, shooting extremely wide is sacrificing details in the juicy galactic core only to show off wider parts of the less interesting outer features... which also invites tons of uninteresting open space.

2) Light pollution filters *do* make a pronounced difference in how the sky looks. I keep an RA54 filter in front of my lens even shooting in the darkest skies. I wish I had some direct side-by-side A/B test shots to show.

3) Light painting! This is just a creative suggestion. Looking at some of the trial photos, if you're wondering why your foreground looks sort of flat, shapeless, and undefined, I'd say it's because you're shining the light directly behind the camera. While that's indeed illuminating your subject, it's also casting no shadows at all from your lens's frame of reference. That means it erases so much potential for you to add depth context and texture into your foreground elements.

Next time try walking away from your camera and shining the light directionally off-plane to where your camera is pointing. You can really craft the light to show off details in the foreground.

Example of all 3:



This is a 24mm field of view on the K-1 (probably could have shot this identically with the Samyang 16mm on my KP). 24mm equivalent is great for dialing in the interesting parts of the galactic core, while still leaving plenty of room to organize foreground elements. In North America, sometimes the Milky Way is presented perfectly vertically... for those weeks I'll shoot at 20mm instead. In the early and late parts of the season, where the Milky Way is flatter to the horizon, you can do great with a 35mm equivalent FOV too.

The RA54 filter cleaned up the blues in the sky without having to resort to an artificailly-low White Balance value, while simultaneously dialing back some of the orange at the horizon. It makes a ton of difference for color clarity in the sky.

Lastly, this is a 2-light setup to make shadow shapes with the ruins in the foreground, but the lights were also positioned to to reveal the textures in the lit brick faces. So many people shoot this spot, and use a headlamp behind the camera, and their foreground just looks like illuminated shapes of bricks, without any real context to what those bricks are.
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 08-21-2020, 01:35 PM  
Another snippet from Pentax HQ
Posted By disasterfilm
Replies: 410
Views: 29,930
Hahaha wow! THAT is a bold claim! I think we all agree that this thing will have a back screen.

:D :D :D :D :D
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 08-21-2020, 06:57 AM  
Another snippet from Pentax HQ
Posted By disasterfilm
Replies: 410
Views: 29,930
I too want this new camera to have a moveable screen and have looked at release images trying to find evidence.

But at this point in the teaser cycle, if the camera *did* have a moving screen with some kickass new flush mount, don't you think they'd be showing it off by now and not hiding it?
For new releases bragging about introducing features, like the first flip-out screen of the K-S2 and the lunar lander screen of the K-1, they were front & center with it.
Lack of evidence <2 months out from the full debut date is plenty of evidence to rule it out.

I think this one is going to be a fixed screen, guys. I'll trust Pentax on this one, but they have to know that the K-1, KP, and K-70 screens are well loved too.
Forum: Photographic Equipment for Sale 08-17-2020, 09:20 AM  
For Sale: FF Normal Zooms: D-FA 24-70 (SOLD), Sigma EX DG HSM 24-70, FA 24-90
Posted By disasterfilm
Replies: 2
Views: 707
I have so many lenses that haven't left the shelf for months/years, and it's time to let these lenses find new homes. I'll be grouping them by similar interests to hopefully reduce Marketplace clutter.
These are my price-tiered group of everyday zooms.

Please be kind when judging my photo quality! I'm not great at all at product shots, so backgrounds aren't even and shadows are less than ideal. I have trouble lighting lens optics, and even more trouble keeping surface dust from landing between cleaning and taking the photo. I'll be happy to send full-sized (from K-5iis) versions of any you'd like to see. These are all downsized to 1080 pix.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

SOLD Pentax D-FA 24-70 f/2.8

This one's condition is "New in Box". I bought this as a 2nd copy for a project that got paused, set into hibernation, and now I'm assuming has died. It's way past my return period, so I'm hoping to pass on a great deal to a fellow forumite.

How new is "like new"? I've never taken a photo with it. I've only taken it out of the box twice. 1) to check it was intact and complete on arrival, and 2) to take photos to list it here. The plastic is still protecting the DOF scale. I had to unwrap the lens hood for the first time to include it in the photos. This guy has lived in the box as though it's been in a single-boxed Pentax stock warehouse located entirely in my domicile.

It'll come with the box and re-packed as though it was from the factory, with the never-unwrapped padded lens case, the original front and rear caps, the lens hood, and I guess it'll include the lens itself too.

Asking $850, including shipping and PayPal fees on my end.

Here are the pics from a trip around the lens: EDIT: photos removed due to completed sale


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sigma EX DG 24-70 HSM

This guy has been well-used, but IMHO it's the best variant of the Sigma EX DG line. The silent HSM focus is a big plus compared to the older ones.

I'm not the original owner. It came from Amazon in the time period between K-1 Mark 1 pre-order Day 1 and Shipment day. Wanted to make sure I had a high-quality FF 24-70, and this one definitely fits the bill.

Priced at $425, including shipping and PayPal fees covered by me.

Included in sale: The lens itself, OEM Sigma front and rear caps, and the original lens hood.

Optically it performs very similarly to the D-FA, with the exception that f/2.8 is a marked notch down compared to the D-FA. If you stop down to f/4 or further, it holds up very well against the D-FA. If this thing was weather-sealed, I may never have paid the meaty price for the OEM big boy.

Condition: I'd say 'good' cosmetically, and 'excellent' for the optical parts of the lens. This one is the rubberized EX DG layering, so it's a bit grippier than the crinklewrap of other models. You'll notice some rubber worn off there your left hand fingers naturally rest to operate the zoom ring, some bubbling of the rubber coat between the zoom ring and focus ring, and 3 or 4 spots of tiny tears or wears through the rubber between the zoom and focus rings. The zoom and focus rings are grippy and are completely fixed to the lens. The plastic lens hood has some scrapes and dings, but it does its job. Seats well both reversed and faced for active use.

Compatibility: you'll read a lot of threads where people worry about the EX DG line having autofocus firmware issues with newer bodies. This one focuses perfectly on my K-1, both via PDAF through the viewfinder and CDAF through Live View. I didn't have to send this lens to Sigma for this firmware update. It came to me fully functional.

Here are the pics of the lens under full extensiom/rotation. I did my best to emphasize the wear spots!













-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Pentax FA 24-90

This lens came to me in a package deal with some other FA lenses. I was really excited for this one, hoping to use it as a lightweight hiking lens with a great zoom range, which will give great IQ stopped down.

Then I almost never used it. I always prioritized the heavier, higher-quality zoom lenses... or the bag full of primes that cover the same range. Especially when I had the weather sealing of the D-FA. This guy got left at home.

Listing this one at $225, including shipping and PayPal fees that I'll cover.

Included with this lens: the lens itself. OEM Pentax rear lens cap. Generic front 67mm pinch cap. The lens hood - BUT the filter rotation slot was missing by the time I bought it. Photo of the hood included for emphasis!

Condition: I'd say 'good', and expect to be pleasantly surprised if you're expecting that. There's one chip out of the charcoal paint right next to the line-up line beside the "A" spot on the aperture ring. The rubber focus ring has some friction marks and mild scrapes. The zoom rubber is in great condition, no separation from the lens, and classic FA in design. Optically the lens looks very clean. I'm sure there's a few small specs of dust considering the age.

To be aware of: The lens does exhibit zoom creep. If you walk around with it attached, it'll slide out to 90mm while you walk around. However, if you're set up on a tripod and pitched up or down, the lens does not creep in that configuration (that I've seen). Personally, I put a rubber band around the zoom ring - half on the ring and half on the body, and that holds it still during transport, and doesn't impede usability much either. Plus extra (unnecessary) support for a lens pitched away from horizontal.

Photos ahoy!











The dust shown on this one brushes right off too. Didn't realize until I was uploading now.


Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 08-11-2020, 12:14 PM  
"The" AF Zoom for K-1?
Posted By disasterfilm
Replies: 26
Views: 1,191
I bought my D-FA 150-450 as an open-box / used item (minus the carrying bag) from Adorama for $1500 on the nose. KEH had a copy ~2 weeks ago for $1200ish.
Food for thought!

If you think you'll be staying in the shorter focal length range more though, the D-FA 70-200 used can be had at ~$1,200.

For the long Sigma zooms, I'd say stick to the 50-500 over all of the others. It's versatile but not exceptional. I've seen them on the 2ndhand market from $600-900 too, so a bit below your $1,200 estimate.
I've shot their EX DG 70-200 HSM II before too, not great wide open, but at f/4 and onward definitely a serviceable lens. And they can be had in the $500-600 range.
Forum: Repairs and Warranty Service 08-10-2020, 09:06 AM  
D-FA 150-450 & 70-200 broken tripod foot: a DIY solution
Posted By disasterfilm
Replies: 5
Views: 708
Great point, Martin! I don't expect this exact one to be my forever-solution. I'll probably take my time and make a cleaner 2nd attempt, and I'll cold-blue that after it's done. I'm pretty sure I still have plenty left from the last time I re-finished a shotgun.



I agree, the design is pretty spectacular for ease of removal. Maybe this is Pentax learning from designing the F* 300 tripod foot as a monolithic object? That's another giant foot that users commonly removed... and then lost.

I think I found 3 or 4 cases of others' internal cleats breaking too online, and in all cases the users (and I) were storing and transporting their lenses with the tripod foot always attached. I won't be doing that again, that's for sure. Not sure if it has any bearing on the failure, but I don't want to take chances based on convenience anymore.



That's tough to say, I have zero experience with 3D printing. I don't really know the strength properties or durability of such material. It sure would be a cleaner and more precise option than buying the metal and cutting/filing it to fit. I'd be thrilled to collab however I could though if someone has a printer and wants to give it a shot!
Forum: Repairs and Warranty Service 08-08-2020, 06:40 PM  
D-FA 150-450 & 70-200 broken tripod foot: a DIY solution
Posted By disasterfilm
Replies: 5
Views: 708
Maybe 3 months ago, the internal clamp on the tripod foot of my D-FA 150-450 broke. It's a shear failure at the little metal cleat that clamps the receiver home on the main lens, and it's absolutely debilitating.

My first course of action, following the logic in another thread, was to JB Weld the pieces back together. It just didn't hold, and broke at the epoxy interface the first trip out.
Reference thread: Tripod mount replacement - PentaxForums.com

The photo below is what the part looked like after the break, and 2 JB Weld repairs. The 2nd weld wasn't intended for usage, but just to re-form it temporarily.


So back to the drawing board. I found a bunch of old threads describing the same problem, and the only solutions seemed to be begging a parts distributor to order the entire ring + collar + assembly, waiting several weeks for it, and paying $200 for the privilege. Then hoping the same thing doesn't happen again with the replacement.
Reference thread: I lost the tripod foot for my H DFA 70-200 f/2.8 Looking for a replacement: Pentax SLR Talk Forum: Digital Photography Review

Frankly I've had really bad luck with Pentax gear durability, so paying so much for one part was boiling my guts (unless they made it out of titanium this time).

After waiting, venting, and doing the angry-irrational exercise of pricing what it would take to switch systems to a camera manufacturer that takes service and support more seriously, I remembered I'm an engineer. So I ended up spending about 70% of the price in materials and tools, and undertook the task of fabricating myself another one.

I used my handy calipers to dimension off the cross-section of the part. In Freedom Units, of course.


Then I set out to find my material. I chose 2024 Aluminium. I expect it's stronger than the original material.
Looking at the dimensions above, I chose a square bar with a 0.75" edge length. This would require the least amounts of cuts to make blanks off of the rod.
🛒 2024-T351 Aluminum Square Bar (Click & Buy)

Then the rest just came down to divining the fabrication process.

I knew I was going to have to buy a small drill press, and a desktop vice to make a workstation.
I mounted each of those on a cheap rolling side table I was otherwise going to throw away.

I also ended up buying a thread tapper (you'll need an M6-1.0), and a metric drill bit set (DAMN YOU COMMUNIST UNITS).
You'll need a 7mm drill bit and a 7.5mm drill bit to counter-sink the holes to allow for screw entry and the spring detent in the back.
The majority of the work was done with a Dremel tool, which I already had. I used a bigger drill to finish the machine hole.
Finishing work with a variety of files.

And tada! This is what it looked like on my workstation.


So it's... um... ugly. Definitely wasn't a perfect fabrication. And I definitely didn't want to spend more time cleaning the first creation up. I left some extra material at the back end of the shear plane, hoping that it would resist the stresses of being the limiting strength factor in contact between the lens and the tripod foot.

Here's a side-by-side of the original and replica.


Ugliness aside... the real question is "But does it work!?!" The answer is yes.

It fits, and screws in, and holds the lens in place just fine.


This one will do, especially considering this was a first-draft. Usually on these kinds of projects my first attempt is riddled with the ill effects of learning, so I'm a bit delighted that this is functional. I did buy 18" worth of rod though, so I expect that I'll spend some more time making myself a better one. Cleaner right angles, more precise cuts and excavations, and hopefully a better-machined cleat interface where it grabs the lens.

In the meantime, I'm going to be careful as heck deploying this thing in the field. After all, I am Owner #1 of 1 of the MOST Limited Internal-Silver Edition D-FA 150-450 in history!
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 08-07-2020, 06:02 PM  
K-70 Interval Shooting
Posted By disasterfilm
Replies: 8
Views: 557
If you're doing star trails, I'd really encourage you not to use the built-in intervalometer.

By default, you're only capturing 93% of the trails (30/32) and thus will have tiny slices of gaps in between your stars.

What I recommend instead is to get a $10 wired remote. Set your exposure settings however you please, then flip the Drive mode to Continuous (H/M/L, doesn't matter). When you're ready to go, use the button lock on the wired remote, and let it go until you think you're done.

It'll shoot those 30 second frames over and over with unrecognizably small gaps in your star trails when you merge them all together.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 08-07-2020, 12:33 PM  
K-70 Interval Shooting
Posted By disasterfilm
Replies: 8
Views: 557
Hi and welcome!

The interval shooting menu is the same thing as though you're mashing the shutter button only on a timer.
It's totally blind to whatever your Manual exposure settings are.

So if you set your interval to 30 seconds, and your manual shutter speed is 25 seconds, there'll be 5 seconds of gap before the next one
.
However, if you set your interval to shorter than the shutter speed (say 20 seconds, and your shutter speed is 25 seconds), it would shoot for the 25 seconds, then the next interval would be missed since the exposure is still going, but it'll pick you back up at the next 2x20 = 40 second interval.

Now keep in mind if the 2nd thing happens, you only get half the number of frames you set your intervalometer for because it's missing every other one.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 07-29-2020, 12:44 PM  
Best aps-c camera ???????????
Posted By disasterfilm
Replies: 23
Views: 3,911
So I own (and have regularly shot) a K-500, K-5, K-5iis, K-3, K-70, and KP from the APS-C arsenal.

The KP is tops among them.

If you're going for pure-OOC JPG though, the Fuji's can't be defeated. I love the JPGs from my x100F.
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 07-15-2020, 04:25 PM  
New video with our thoughts on PENTAX
Posted By disasterfilm
Replies: 81
Views: 9,164
Interesting catch!

A little extreme manipulation and...


I'm seeing a Pentax MG?? Definitey a winder to the shooter's left of the prism, and judging from how the silver binding at the bottom is wider at the front and narrower along the back.
Forum: Pentax K-1 07-14-2020, 11:42 AM  
K-1 accident
Posted By disasterfilm
Replies: 13
Views: 1,297
I'm relieved you got everything locking into place!

One extra recommendation now that you're up and running again - take a few of your lenses and check PDAF accuracy through the viewfinder (not via Live View). I had a K-1 take some fall damage, and it survived too but knocked the AF out of alignment and beyond the ability for AF Fine Tuning to correct for. Missed focus on a TON of shots until I figured out what was happening.

Had to send it to Precision for them to re-calibrate the PDAF.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 07-07-2020, 02:21 PM  
DFA 70-210mm, wind ...and nearly a hospital visit ...
Posted By disasterfilm
Replies: 28
Views: 1,490
It sounds like you're getting to the point where upgrading in one place starts exposing limitations of gear in other places, and the constant cycle of escalation becomes quite costly to solve.

I have the exact same Carbon 190go! tripod as you, but as soon as I started shooting telephoto more often I went bigger and stiffer. I still use the 190go! as a secondary tripod for home/studio work and lightweight travel.

Can i offer a few more suggestions (that you may have already tried)?

1) If you can get away with it, try the same setup without the lens hood attached. It catches a lot of wind, creates a lot more turbulent airflow, and applies extra torque on your setup since it's so far away from the fixed point of rotation.
2) Dropping your tripod lower can help. If you're reeling in leg sections, start by retracting the skinniest, lowest legs first.
3) If you can go close to the ground, angling those legs further than the first notch can help too.
4) Look for setup opportunities to shield yourself from the wind. Trees/walls/whatever you can find.
5) You can use your body as a wind screen. Position yourself as close as you can to your camera/lens blocking the wind, and use a remote cable to trigger the shutter.

I'll probably think of more right after clicking "reply", and I bet there's a pile of other ways that our friends here can think of.

BTW - as one last aside, when considering tripods I really recommend reading through The Center Column – Independent Tripod Testing. Even if some of the metrics fly over most of our heads, it can give you a real sense for how to quantify differences between tons of frequently-used tripods. Their governing Rankings table presents a ton of useful info. Rankings – The Center Column
Forum: Pentax K-01 06-30-2020, 02:50 PM  
Time lapse for 3D printer using K-01?
Posted By disasterfilm
Replies: 7
Views: 569
The K-01 doesn't have a remote shutter port for this. It's either an infrared remote or using the internal camera module. That's a dealbreaker for me for external usage, but under very consistent room lighting and known printing sequences it may not be such a non-starter for the OP.



It sounds like he wants to shoot timelapses of printing processes to have creation videos. It's helpful info because it lets us know it'll be 100% interior usage and gives us some feel of focal lengths, focal distance, mounting systems, and general usage.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 06-30-2020, 09:09 AM  
K-1 II or KP for astrophotography?
Posted By disasterfilm
Replies: 32
Views: 1,899
Yes, you've got that right! It's a slower lens.

I consider practical usage though when comparing lenses. Not everything needs to be shot wide open, and there are often benefits to stopping down the lens. When shooting architectural/cityscape/landscape, I'll often stop down to f/5.6 or f/8 anyway, regardless of what lens I'm using. Particularly if you're on a tripod, or if the shutter speeds are still good enough to hand-hold.

I pretty much never shoot the D-FA 24-70 at f/2.8. Most of the time I'm f/4 or further down. Not trying to talk you out of anything! Just trying to illuminate other things to consider before you start spending that lottery money.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 06-30-2020, 08:49 AM  
K-1 II or KP for astrophotography?
Posted By disasterfilm
Replies: 32
Views: 1,899
Definitely agreed here! I haven't tried the D-FA 24-70 for any type of astro photos, but maybe I'll give that a spin my next time out.

Just spitballing here, but I believe that for the price of the D-FA 24-70, you could probably find a D-FA 28-105 + Roki/Samyang 24 f/1.4. That would give you tons of versatility with the standard zoom, and a 2nd-to-none option for wide field photos of stars. The 28-105 really is spectacular in its own right. Just an extra option to consider! On the US market, especially used, it would be less expensive to go with the dual-lens option.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 06-28-2020, 08:22 PM  
K-1 II or KP for astrophotography?
Posted By disasterfilm
Replies: 32
Views: 1,899
If astrophotography is your goal (albeit driven by personal use rather than business), I'd nudge you toward the K-1 or K-1ii over the KP.
I have a K-1 and a KP, and I use both for astrophotography. The KP will do well. The K-1/K-1ii will be stellar though.

The biggest difference isn't necessarily going to be the camera - it's going to be the lenses.

For shooting wide Milky Way stuff, in North America anyway, I love the 24mm field of view the best. It gets you the best mix of the interesting part of the galactic core, with plenty of frame left to arrange your foreground/landscape elements. The wider you shoot the Milky Way, you're adding in the longer tail to the MW, but you're doing at at a sacrifice because it makes the beautiful core smaller.

Anyway - for the same field of view, with a K-1 you'd be using a 24mm lens, and for the KP you'd be using a 16mm lens.
With the K-1, the Rokinon/Samyang 24mm f/1.4 is the clear favorite.
With the KP, the Rokinon/Samyang 16mm f/2 is the closest you could get. So you're sacrificing one extra stop of light.

Using the astrotracer, I'd stop down to f/2.8 anyway, and extend the exposure time into the 2-3 minute range.
Stopping down the 24mm to f/2.8 gives you brilliant rendering and sharpness all across the frame, and minimizes any coma at the corners.
When you stop down the 16mm to f/2.8, you get *some* benefits over shooting wide open, but it's not as drastic as the 24mm gives you.

Add in the rest of the things - the resolution increase. The better battery power. The better peripherals (lights, controls, viewfinder, LCD screen, dual card slots).
The GPS is built-in so you'll never lose it or forget the battery or worry about the module getting knocked off your hotshoe.
Also factor in that for everything your business requires - a lot of times people who write deliverable specs insist on a FF camera, even if they don't know why.

The K-1 is a slam dunk. You can find it used for $1,100-1,300, with somewhat low shutter counts in there. It's a monster of a value camera, and was almost purpose-built to be an astrophoto peak performer.

Welcome to the forum, btw!
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 06-23-2020, 08:40 PM  
File size comparison
Posted By disasterfilm
Replies: 23
Views: 1,058
These are some general estimates from some randomly-pulled-up photo libraries from each of my cameras. All cases are very general-use photos, DNG format, and usually at low ISO (100-400).

K-1, full resolution - 43.5 MB
K-1, APS-C crop mode - 20.3 MB
KP - 30.2 MB
K-3 - 29.7 MB
K-70 - 30.0 MB
K-5iis - 19.5 MB
K-5 - 12.5 MB
K-500 - 14.0 MB
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 06-23-2020, 10:34 AM  
Short telephoto for landscape/architecture with a film SLR
Posted By disasterfilm
Replies: 25
Views: 1,417
If I can venture a bit outside the box, I'd steer you towards 2 options.
Both are FF and aperture-ring film compatible. Both are a bit over your weight request.
And both are definitely more 'new' than old lenses.

1) The Rokinon/Samyang 85mm f/1.4. Forums review link

I shoot this a TON for cityscape/architectural/timelapse work. It's glorious. Stop it down to f/2.8 and you'll definitely be pleased all across the frame.
It's a bit short of your focal length range, but it's purpose-built as a portrait lens too, so it'll give you a different look if you're into that too.
Plus you can snag it for $140-180 used, in great shape.
Extra plug: if you *were* considering a different 135mm, their copy of the 135 f/2 is absolutely stellar for the same philosophy of usage.

2) The non-WR D-FA 100 macro. Forums review link

This one keeps the aperture ring. I've never shot one, but I'm assuming it's practically the same as the WR version, which I have plenty of non-macro experience shooting.
It's a killer. May be a touch too sharp to consider using for film portraits though.
Find-able on the used market for $220-260ish?
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