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Forum: Pentax K-1 10-29-2017, 03:35 PM  
New K1 owner wants to print LARGE
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 20
Views: 1,197
I didn't like the fractal program (weird artifacts), just regular upsampling works fine (some people do it step-wise). No matter how big you go, you're not going to LOSE detail you've got (why would you?), but eventually you'll notice a bit of softness if you are standing too close. We print as big as you are talking about with K-5 source images and they look good. But if it is all about detail detail detail you'll have to decide what you're comfortable with. I would think a sharp source file with the K-1 from a limited lens you could easily go that big or bigger.
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 10-26-2017, 06:17 PM  
DXO acquires Nik Collection from Google
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 26
Views: 1,400
The link I see on DXO says the new Nik collection will be available mid-2018 and leave your email to be notified when it is available. I suppose they will actually want us to pay for it going forward -- we actually bought the suite for $600-something a long time ago before Google had it for free. (And it was well worth it.) I wonder if any of the original developers will be involved...
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 10-26-2017, 10:54 AM  
DXO acquires Nik Collection from Google
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 26
Views: 1,400
That's good news, it was totally abandoned and wouldn't even work with newer Adobe products (I've heard). We are completely dependent on it.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 08-26-2017, 11:58 AM  
Vivitar 90mm f2.5 macro extender help
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 2
Views: 302
You shouldn't manipulate the aperture ring on the extension tube at all -- use the regular ring on the main lens and you'll see that the other one remains in sync -- that's all it is there for, as a visual (since the tube has no aperture itself).
Forum: Accessory and Memory Articles 08-19-2017, 08:17 PM  
The right type of M42-to-K-mount adaptor
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 24
Views: 35,260
On the genuine adapter, is is perfectly safe and can be trusted, it is just the adapter moves around in the mount a bit (before you screw a lens tight on it) -- this is on purpose and it just works better on the camera. Also the real ones are much too pricey to be buying one for every lens anyway. So if you are using m42s alot, you'll want a genuine one to have around, but if you just have a couple m42s you're better off with cheap third-party ones. The third-party ones are typically much tighter in the mount and if you don't get rid of that springy thing, you will have a thing stuck to your camera at some point that is near impossible to get off. Just take it off and forget about it. Neither one is going to drop anything inside your camera body -- that's not a thing. (All of this will be much more obvious if you had it in your hand, the main thing is just with the third-party adapters to take that thing off before it gets anywhere near a lens or your camera or you will regret it, I promise.)
Forum: Accessory and Memory Articles 08-19-2017, 02:37 PM  
The right type of M42-to-K-mount adaptor
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 24
Views: 35,260
If you buy the genuine Pentax adapter, it is somewhat loosey-goosey (by design) and is best used staying on the camera body (leave the locking spring alone). If you buy any other third-party copy of this type (meaning one that stays flush to the body mount without an external flange), then immediately remove the locking spring thing before you use it. YOU WILL REGRET IT IF YOU LEAVE THAT THING ON. Now your adapter can be screwed on the lens and left there. It achieves a friction fit when mounted bayonet style on the body (meaning it can fall off if you turn it accidentally, but most lenses are pretty snug). The locking button on the camera never comes into play with any of these adapters -- you're either unscrewing the lens or unmounting it bayonet style as usual. If the adapter is snug on the lens and you want to get it off, use a rear lens cap as a wrench.
Forum: Pentax Q 08-13-2017, 03:34 PM  
Best bang for the buck long 300mm tele for Q?
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 72
Views: 9,294
There is no reason for any full-frame or APS-C lens adapted for the Q to lose infinity focus You lose infinity by having the lens farther away than it is supposed to be from the sensor plane, so going from Nikon(FF or APS-C) to Pentax(FF o rAPS-C) that's a problem because there is not enough room for the adapter, but going to the tiny sensor Q with short registration distance there is plenty of room so any proper adapter should be calibrated for infinity.

So, either that is one crappy adapter, or that reviewer is simply wrong, or that reviewer's lens is screwy and it doesn't focus to infinity at all. Fotodiox makes cheap adapters, but that NOT cheap -- really should work for infinity...
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 08-11-2017, 08:07 AM  
Kiron 105mm f2.8 stuck aperture ring
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 10
Views: 428
The button could just be messed up a bit. Does it click as usual when moving to the other apertures? (If not ball bearing is missing or in wrong place.)

Or maybe the aperture lever/arm could be bent somewhat -- it moves a very long arm on that model. When it is set wide-open, is the aperture actually wide open or can you see the edges still slightly visible? (You may actually be going all the way it goes on the closed side and you've got to adjust so it opens all the way.) I've worked on the mounts of those several times -- like any mount, you've got to watch out for the little ball bearing that clicks the aperture and there might be a tiny spring in the button. (It can be difficult to get everything back into place and put together after you've fixed the problem.) There are a whole bunch of ball bearings in the mount that you'll hear sloshing around. Those are encased and will not fall out everywhere if you remove the mount so don't worry about that. To remove the mount, take out the center black piece first and then remove the screws on the silver part of the mount itself. (If you can -- they are often just about impossible to get off -- I've had to drill out a few and replace them.)
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 07-28-2017, 06:49 AM  
pentax Q10 hotshoe flash not firing
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 10
Views: 445
Yes, there are several possible reasons, but you can eliminate hotshoe being disabled if it works with other flashes. Probably has something to do with the fact that any non-Pentax flash is acting in "dumb" mode with hotshoe being a simple trigger while a Pentax flash is trying to communicate with the camera. I tend to use the hotshoe only to activate Cactus radio triggers, so I don't know the ins-and-outs of Pentax flash modes, etc...
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 07-27-2017, 06:20 PM  
pentax Q10 hotshoe flash not firing
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 10
Views: 445
Shutter speed has to be low enough also I suppose...

---------- Post added 07-27-17 at 09:34 PM ----------

Ok, found my Qs. I guess it was the regular flash button on the back I was thinking of. Flash needs to be set to OFF (which sounds weird to enable another kind of flash). But I guess you did that? If the Olympus flash works, then the hotshoe must be enabled and your Pentax isn't firing for some other reason.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 07-27-2017, 06:01 PM  
pentax Q10 hotshoe flash not firing
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 10
Views: 445
I think so. Can't find my Q(!) at the moment. (I moved recently, it is in a case somewhere.)
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 07-27-2017, 05:41 PM  
pentax Q10 hotshoe flash not firing
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 10
Views: 445
No, a menu option specifically to turn off built-in flash -- it uses one or the other (built-in or hotshoe), so to enable hotshoe you disable internal. (Not just the back button to control flash options.)
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 07-27-2017, 04:09 PM  
pentax Q10 hotshoe flash not firing
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 10
Views: 445
I think you need to disable the built-in flash.
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 06-26-2017, 02:50 PM  
Remember Self-leveling values like Raw WB
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 9
Views: 510
If it doesn't maintain an exact value, that's something, but also kinda expected and probably necessary to be compatible with the camera profiles. But still, it is not IGNORING the WB setting from shooting (which to me implies to would make everything end up neutral no matter how you shot it). It is in the same ballpark with some other adjustments applied as part of a complex rendering process. And it seems appropriate also -- most people are going to set the WB to look a certain way, not be a certain exact value. (In which circumstance would you need an exact value? Some scientific application maybe, but clearly LR is the wrong tool for that.)
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 06-26-2017, 08:13 AM  
Remember Self-leveling values like Raw WB
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 9
Views: 510
I just tested it cause that sounded weird. Used an an extreme custom WB to make the image green in normal light, then took another with AWB. Imported in LR, and I get one green image, and one normal one as expected...
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 06-26-2017, 06:58 AM  
Remember Self-leveling values like Raw WB
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 9
Views: 510
WB setting is used in LR, unless it isn't anymore. (I've still got LR5). As long as it is set to "As Shot" rather than Auto or something else. It would be crazy not to be able to set it to the WB you shot with...
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-24-2017, 08:35 AM  
What size scratch begins to be visible in photos
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 7
Views: 494
On a telephoto lens, you can see the *effects* of scratches on the front element if they catch the light, but if you use the technique of filling-in the scratch as suggested above (and using a hood, which you should be anyway), you'll never know it was there. (You probably don't have to apply it with a pin or needle to surgically target the scratch -- you just dab it on the scratch and then immediately wipe it off the surface while wet -- scratch will be filled, the surface will be clean. Most people suggest just using a black marker, but those are usually actually purple so something black black is probably better.) I suspect a center scratch is actually preferable to an edge scratch because of the way the light travels -- you can block out the entire center and it won't have that much effect other than lowering contrast and overall exposure (and maybe donut bokeh like a mirror lens?). Block out the edges and you have visible vignetting.

On a wide-angle lens, you might be able to see the actual scratch because the focus distance can get so close to the front element.
Forum: Post Your Photos! 03-20-2017, 12:45 PM  
Nature Gazing at a Gator
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 9
Views: 337
I think they always face the water if they are not actually in it.
Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories 03-16-2017, 08:00 PM  
Joby/Other Tripod compatability
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 14
Views: 853
I think you are in luck because I believe Joby uses Arca-Swiss compatible plates and clamps, which is a universal system. At least I know they do on some of their things, because I use an Arca compatible Joby Ultra Plate for a few purposes. So double-check that, and make sure anything you buy is Arca-Swiss compatible. (Don't buy Manfrotto things -- they use a proprietary system.) Arca-Swiss plates use the dovetail system that clamps in -- there are a million compatible options...
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 03-03-2017, 08:57 AM  
Amazon Unlimited Storage - is it wise to switch to cloud storage?
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 27
Views: 1,192
I had previously backed up all my RAW files to Amazon when they made it free for photos (if you have prime already), but then later on got the $60/yr unlimited deal -- I think they are the only ones offering true unlimited for a reasonable price -- and so then I backed up my system and other files. I don't encrypt the photos (which are just of trees, rocks, buildings, etc, so I'm just not worried too much about a breach), but I encrypt everything else on my end first. As far as the risk of totally losing the data, a cloud solution (from a big company) is certainly less risky than any solution you implement yourself with physical media (because those companies have their own redundancy), although you should do both. And if you are worried about the data getting out into the world (and you should), then you should encrypt anything sensitive and it won't matter if it is leaked.

The problem you want to avoid is not "never having a problem", it is never having a problem you can't recover from. For instance, if Amazon's data is all destroyed today right now, I won't lose anything because I have that data here also. So as long as I hear about that happening, I can take steps to make sure I've got another backup happening. But if instead, my data is all destroyed/stolen here, then I still doesn't lose anything because I've got it backed up on Amazon and maybe other places. So as long as everything doesn't get destroyed everywhere on the same day, all is fine. (And if it is, we're probably in a nuclear war or something and will have bigger fish to fry.) So there is no reason to be inordinately worried about whatever service failing or being hacked (especially if you encrypt everything) unless that is your only copy -- but then it isn't a backup, and so that would be foolish -- it something happens to one copy somewhere, you just make another one. Just make sure the odds are incredibly small that all your copies could be lost at the same time...
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 03-02-2017, 05:18 PM  
Amazon Unlimited Storage - is it wise to switch to cloud storage?
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 27
Views: 1,192
Yeah, I use Amazon but it is truly backup only -- I hope I never have to download it again -- the software is terrible.
Forum: Lens Clubs 02-23-2017, 02:04 PM  
Adaptall Mount Club (Tamron).
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 3,488
Views: 544,848
Oh no. The rear element is not recessed enough? I always forget the 360B exists -- I think it is rarer than the 200F. (Which I've had several of, but have only seen a 360B come up for sale a couple of times maybe.) The 200F is getting easier to find and half as expensive as it used to be. The lenses it fits on are coming up more often also -- maybe you should trade-in your 360B for the 60B or 65B? KEH has a couple of the latter at the moment. Seems to me I've read about the 360B needing modification to use even the 140F. (YES, see pacerr's review: https://www.pentaxforums.com/userreviews/tamron-adaptall-2-sp-300mm-f-2-8-ld-if-360b.html)

While the 200F is noticeably superior to the common 01F, still it is probably over-hyped. A more modern 2x, even if it wasn't a "long" model, might do nearly as well. (The 1.7x AF adapter is also a possibility.)
Forum: Sold Items 02-15-2017, 08:47 AM  
For Sale - Sold: Berlebach Premium-Quality "Wooden" Minitripod (large version)
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 1
Views: 518
PM sent
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 02-12-2017, 10:25 PM  
New to macro photos, weird bright spot in center of photos.
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 12
Views: 912
Oh one other thing -- you can get light through the viewfinder/eyepiece, so if you are not shooting with your eye to the camera, cover that up. (True any time if you are using remote or timed release.)
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 02-12-2017, 10:00 PM  
New to macro photos, weird bright spot in center of photos.
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 12
Views: 912
Any sort of reversed lens will be somewhat unpredictable -- new or old could cause a problem -- depends on lens shape and coatings. Using a lens normally you have to watch out for older lenses with flat rear elements and there are a few with aperture blades that cause reflections. (And an old lens might have loss of interior paint, etc). Also crappy extension tubes that might not be as light-absorbing along the edges as they could be (or anything scratched in the light path that has become silvery/shiny). Also look for light leaks around the mounts when using any weird set-ups. The angle of the light in the scene can also make a difference. Very often background diffuse light is a bigger problem than direct light (photographing something indoors with a bright window behind it, even if the light source isn't in the shot), but it just depends. Play around with it and different angles and apertures to see when it gets better/worse. In post a localized loss of contrast can usually be compensated for, but sometimes you get a fairly hard aperture-shaped hot spot that is blue or purple with definitive edges -- a bit more challenging...
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