Forum: Pentax Film SLR Discussion
01-08-2020, 07:08 PM
|
|
I am looking into buying a decorative hot shoe cover for a Pentax MX. The ad says it fits K5, K3, K70, K30, K50,... basically any Pentax DSLR. My question? Does anyone know if the hot shoe size is the same for the MX?
|
Forum: Pentax Film SLR Discussion
12-26-2019, 05:52 PM
|
|
I'll definitely post the finished results, though the project will likely take several months. So far I have torn a for-parts Pentax ME apart and liberated its pentaprism/focus screen, mirror, pressure plate, and flange. At this point, I'm thinking we'll model the build after the K1000 both for its iconic status and the dimensions/details are the easiest to reproduce.
At the moment, I'm working on how to make a functioning shutter out of LEGO bricks... A single curtain design is fairly easy to make, but made out of legos... it requires a track of 12cm. By the time you leave room for walls, a film canister and take up reel, the camera will be about 40% larger than a K1000 (I'm aiming for just about 10% larger). I could do a half frame camera... but I really would like to keep it full frame.
|
Forum: Pentax Film SLR Discussion
12-25-2019, 07:31 PM
|
|
I would suggest your classic 28, 50, 135 for three lenses. Perhaps add a 35mm and a 70-200 or 100-300 zoom if you go with five lenses.
There are a lot of nice options for the 28 and 135. I'd suggest going with a faster 2.8 lens even if its third party. Vivitar made great stuff, but even unknown brands tend to give pretty good results as most are re-branded Japanese made lenses.
|
Forum: Pentax Film SLR Discussion
12-25-2019, 06:05 PM
|
|
I'm getting ready to do a LEGO build with my son, and it would be helpful to have some detailed dimensions of several Pentax SLR cameras. Would you mind posting the following dimensions... It would be helpful if you used metric as that's what LEGO uses, but any measurements you can make would be awesome. Thanks!
Model of camera:
Height (from base to top of pentaprism):
Height (from base to shoulders excluding buttons/dials):
Height of Leatherette Band:
Height of bottom chrome/black border below the leatherette band:
Height of the "P" in Pentax
Height of the first letter in the model name (i.e. "K" in K1000, "M" in MX, "L" in LX, etc)
Width of camera measured across the bottom
Shortest distance from the left front edge to the outside edge flange (don't measure the curve of the front... perhaps set the camera up against something flat, by "shortest distance" I mean where the flange is at its widest.).
Shortest distance from the right front side to the outside edge flange.
Thickness of camera measured from the bottom plate.
Thickness of camera measured from the top plate (probably the same)
|
Forum: Photographic Technique
12-18-2019, 01:51 AM
|
|
I use a ultra-wide for urban landscapes... My suggestion is to get really close to your main subject (bridge, foreground building, etc). This usually involves getting a high position in an urban context... So get up close (get near and go up).
I've found that portraits with an ultrawide work best when the subject is not in the center... the distortion is unflattering at the center but can do good things like lengthen legs towards the edge.
|
Forum: Photo Critique
12-16-2019, 09:50 PM
|
 | Nature Birds
Posted By
jcoat |
Replies: 13
Views: 1,078 | |
The grain on the birds isn't bad... but around the water it is distracting (along with the dark spots). I suggest running a sharpening filter (will help isolate the grain and offset the next step), then run a despeckling filter 3-4 times in PS.
|
Forum: Photo Critique
12-16-2019, 09:46 PM
|
 | People Sabi
Posted By
jcoat |
Replies: 17
Views: 1,418 | |
Nice job overall. I agree with some other posters that the sharpness/contrast could be dialed back a bit and exposure could be a bit higher.
For me, I don't think the landscape is working here... you have tons of negative space on the side, but the top and bottom of the frame seems too tight. I think a slight bit more of head space up top would help. And since you are adding interest with the bottom of the sweater. I wouldn't put it right against the edge of the frame.
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
12-16-2019, 07:13 PM
|
|
Thanks for the recommendations... The Pentax 35-105 and Vivitar 28-90 both look like very interesting options.
While I'll probably keep an eye out for one of those, I just picked up a Soligor C/D 28-200mm f3.5-5.6 Macro for 99 cents (plus $8 shipping) on ebay. I have my doubts. But then again it was less than ten bucks, so I'll give it a go.
Thanks again. And I'll keep an eye on this thread periodically, so any other recommendations that come to mind would be appreciated... after I move on from my bargain budget lens.
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
12-15-2019, 07:06 PM
|
|
I'm looking into getting a mid-range zoom for my Pentax MX... Something around a 28-70 or 28-80. Seems all the zooms are around f3.5 (most seem to have a limited macro function at the long end), and I'm looking for a cheaper option, perhaps a Takumar, Vivitar, Promaster, ect.
Yeah... so I get we're not looking at amazing optical performance. Anyone own a couple of these over the years. Any recommendations? Hoping to find something acceptably sharp with decent bokeh.
|
Forum: Weekly Photo Challenges
04-28-2019, 05:32 PM
|
|
Not nearly as much depth as the sweeping landscapes (very nice btw). However, in trying to capture this busy street in Shanghai, I moved so the closest subjects would be at the minimum infinity focal distance so the entire street would be in focus. 
The exif data got lost when scanning :P... K1000, Vivitar 28mm, Kodak Gold 200asa, 1/30s f2.8, shot handheld.
|
Forum: Welcomes and Introductions
04-22-2019, 09:05 PM
|
|
I live mostly in the Nikon world for digital... (please don't hurl sharp objects)... However, I still shoot film regularly with an old K1000. I live and shoot mostly in Shanghai, China.
|
Forum: Weekly Photo Challenges
04-22-2019, 08:55 PM
|
|
I shot a couple rolls with my K1000... all pics on Kodak Gold 200asa. Some various sights around Shanghai, China.
|