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Forum: Lens Clubs 12-14-2016, 12:50 PM  
300mm plus Lens Club: discuss your long lenses
Posted By elektrolitr
Replies: 34,592
Views: 3,457,073
DA*300







Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 04-30-2016, 12:01 AM  
Russian Jupiter 37A infinity mod
Posted By elektrolitr
Replies: 5
Views: 2,114
Just like topic starter, I use adapter like that:



I have separate adapter for each my m42 lens, which all are infinity-corrected. These adapters are always on the lens. In fact, these lenses became K-mount lenses, they just do not have aperture coupling (which is good, because I don't need to use green button for stop-down metering).
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 04-29-2016, 12:53 AM  
Russian Jupiter 37A infinity mod
Posted By elektrolitr
Replies: 5
Views: 2,114
Yes, that way the focal scale isn't affected.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 04-28-2016, 11:07 AM  
Russian Jupiter 37A infinity mod
Posted By elektrolitr
Replies: 5
Views: 2,114
I corrected the infinity position another way, which is even simpler and 100% reversible (providing you haven't lost the shims)

I'll use photos made by Шпигель from russian Pentax forum to describe:

First of all, remove the mount by unscrewing three screws

Lens will look like that:


Unscrew the nut marked "2"

Next, take the lens at the front end with one hand and near the rear end with other hand and simply pull around: the lens will disintegrate into two halves and several smallish details:



As you can see, there are several shims (marked by red on the left) and stopper pin (marked by red on the right)

The pin itself (to the right side of the lens)


My particular lens had 2 0.5mm aluminum shims and 3 or 4 0.1mm brass shims. Each lens can have different number of shims. I removed one alu and 3 brass shims which made 0.8 mm correction to compensate for my particular adapter.

The only difficulty when assembling the lens is to put the stopper pin into it's place. I put the lens unit on the table, placed the pin into it's hole, put the helicoid block over and rotated until pin went into place.

It's possible that your lens doesn't have enough shims to remove, but it's worth to try this method before making more radical ajustments.
Forum: Lens Clubs 03-14-2016, 12:54 PM  
300mm plus Lens Club: discuss your long lenses
Posted By elektrolitr
Replies: 34,592
Views: 3,457,073
Hello all!

I've been luckily enough to buy a very good copy of DA*300 for a very good price locally. I've bought it almost solely for birding purposes, but the lens proved to be excellent landscape lens, too. If you have plenty of open space, of course!

So there are couple of shots taken on a cloudy and wintery day here in Latvia:
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 02-29-2016, 02:21 PM  
Budget Birding Lens... ooh
Posted By elektrolitr
Replies: 36
Views: 5,023
I used two above mentioned lenses extensively last year- a Tair 3 300/4.5 (the version twice as old as me) and Tokina AF SD 400/5.6

I think that pictures speak better than words in photography, so look at these:

Greater White-fronted Goose (Tair)



Common Rosenfinch (Tair)



Whinchat (Tair)



Eurasian Treecreeper (Tair)



Tree Sparrow (Tair)



Northern Showelers among other shorebirds @ Latvian coast (Tair)



Waxwing (Tokina)



Fieldfare (Tokina)



I started year ago with the Tair. It's a surprisingly good lens for it's class. It's as bright as F300/4.5, can be pixel-sharp on K-3 (stopped down to f8 and if you nail-in focus), is useable from wide open (f/4.5) and very good @f/5.6, has all-round aperture (of about 15 blades or so) and it gives the "old-school appearance" to every picture (read- low contrast and a bit dreamy look). On the other hand, it's HUGE and HEAVY (larger than DA*300 and almost twice as heavy despite having only 3 lenses in 2 groups!). The good side is that Tair is undestructable- a finger-thick all-metal body is made to resist anything. Picture quality suffers from CA in OOF areas (Tair is absolutely CA-less in focus zone, but everything that is out of focus is either green or purple. You can easily get green stripes of about 1/10 frame width in bokeh) and lack of AF. I had about 50-60% shots with quality good enough for documentary purposes, but only about 5% has perfect focus).

The next lense I've got was the Tokina. It's a bit shorter, about 1/2 in diameter and half the weight of Tair, has AF (lightning fast AF, you know!) and clever sliding hood. It's useable wide open if you don't want to crop images, very sharp @f/8 and has more reach than Tair. Unfortunately, my copy has a bit of haze on inner element, so it suffers from lowered contrast in certain situations. And it's slow- f/8@400 mm requires a whole lot of light in case you want some quality. Tokina has the same story with CA (no problem in-focus, but wide purple borders on anything OOF).

Tokina completely replaced Tair because of size, AF (and auto aperture, too), far better keeper rate (thanks to AF) and more reach. In a good light it can deliver great images, and K-3 helps to get recognizable snaps in those dark overcast days.

But now I have to leave this thread. I've got DA*300 yesterday (a very good local offering, I just couldn't resist) and it's another galaxy far far away, but not a budget lens in every aspect. So I'll have to sell both T's to cover at least part of my expences.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 01-24-2016, 11:36 AM  
Budget Birding Lens... ooh
Posted By elektrolitr
Replies: 36
Views: 5,023
Let's add a bit of color to all-white snowy day!

Blue Tit in front of Tokina SD 400/5.6@6.7. These are not the sharpest images I have from this lens, but looks like I've missed focus a bit.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 12-23-2015, 12:09 AM  
Budget Birding Lens... ooh
Posted By elektrolitr
Replies: 36
Views: 5,023
I have Tokina SD 400/5.6 AF (exactly the same as in the first photo).

I acquired this one cheaply for experiments. These Tokinas are known to be prone to lens separation, but mine has another problem- some kind of foggy substance on one surface, which I managed to clean, but the surface of lens is damaged a bit and the lens looses a bit of contrast.

I had to open the lens for several times during my repairs and can say it's built to the best Tokina standarts (except for lens glue which is unfortunately "Tokina standard", too). Metal only, no plastic (except for collars and mount contact holder), extremely easy to disassemble and assemble, highly modular construction. It is clearly seen that the front part with all the glass is one unit and the rear part with focus drive and aperture control is screwed on. There is even place in lens frame to install AF motor (for Canon version, I suppose).

Other problem on my lens was aperture control from camera (setting at 6.3 aperture won't close at all, setting at f:8 it just closed to appr.1/3 stop, at f:9 it would close to about f:6.3). It was super-easy repair (unscrew bayonet mount, loosen 2 screws on aperture activating lever, ajust, tighten, screw back mount, check on the camera). Now aperture works OK.

The lens itself is small and light (for all-metal 400mm prime), it can be hand-holded for prolonged time with no problems. AF is frightening fast on K-3, with loud metallic "clang" at the end stops, very reliable in general. Image quality is not premium, but not that bad at all, too. The biggest issue is purple fringing that can be very obtrusive, so it is better to shoot RAW (PF is generally easily removed in RAW converters). With good light and good focus even 1:1 crops are useable.

I don't have many examples from my Tokina because I repaired it in October? and we have total 24/7 for the whole automn/winter period. Most my shots are about F5.6, ISO3200, 1/250-1/125, so documentary only

Few examples that are somewhat useable:


Heavily cropped images at high ISO's







Lightly cropped, IIRC




With a flash at reasonable distance (so lightly cropped or not cropped) and lower ISOs



Forum: Pentax K-3 11-30-2015, 09:58 PM  
K-3 with Metz 58 AF-2
Posted By elektrolitr
Replies: 9
Views: 3,313
Oh, yes! I have a 58-1 and didn't notice that sensor is moved on the second version.

The one on 58-1 works fine on most occasions (except when head turned left by 90 deg in horizontal position), but with proper ajustment it works even better.
Forum: Pentax K-3 11-24-2015, 11:52 PM  
K-3 with Metz 58 AF-2
Posted By elektrolitr
Replies: 9
Views: 3,313
It's easy

First, you have to set the flash on camera (only for the first time), turn it (and camera) on, activate wireless function by going Sel->Remote->Slave. Then, go to Para->Channel, select whatever you want (default 1 is ok unless there are lots of other Pentaxians around doing wireless-flash shooting), this will set the same channel on flash and camera

Second (anytime when you want to use wireless flash)
1. Take the flash, set it to Sel->Remote->Slave
2. Take the camera, go to flash menu (arrow down), select wireless flash (the last symbol in sequence, with a "W" letter over the lightning). You have 2 options on K-3 (earlier models required digging in cFun to ajust the flavour). Wireless master means that in-built flash not only controls the slaves, but also lights the scene. If you choose Control, then in-bult flash tries not to lighten your subject. Pop the in-built flash (this is critical step!). Those having K-3II will have to mount Master-capable flash on top of camera to go wireless.
3. Take a test shot. Most common problem is that light sensor on Metz doesn't see the control flash impulses. That sensor is located on top of flash enclosure (not head, but "body"), on the left side. I usually rise the head upwards and turn it 90deg to clear sky for sensor, then it works fine even without direct visibility (in a moderate sized room).
4. You can control flash options via Para menu, including EV comp, zoom, etc, and switch on/off secondary reflector as usual (via Sel menu)

that is the sensor (little clear cap):

make sure it's not blocked by flash head or anything else
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 04-12-2015, 03:11 AM  
Pentax Color/light Meter & PDAF
Posted By elektrolitr
Replies: 3
Views: 1,106
PDAF compares light that gone two different paths- one from (say) left side of lens and other from right side (or upper and lower). If you put a focusing screen in light path, then it's not possible anymore (light from all lens sides hits focusing screen, refracts and mixes together, so any info that PDAF can use is lost). That's why AF sensors and metering sensors on every SLR are separated (metering sensor needs all the light from the lens to work properly, so it is placed after the FS)

Face recognition in OVF mode is implemented on K-3 even now (you can look in EXIF via exiftool, there is tag "Faces detected", it sometimes has value greater than zero even in EVF mode)
Forum: Photographic Technique 04-02-2015, 09:25 PM  
RAW files
Posted By elektrolitr
Replies: 6
Views: 1,472
This problem is with K-3 DNGs, all K-5 files are converted properly.
Forum: Photographic Technique 04-02-2015, 10:51 AM  
RAW files
Posted By elektrolitr
Replies: 6
Views: 1,472
I've switched from DNG to PEF recently, because C1 has annoying issue with Pentax DNG files (these open and convert fine, but have magenta artifact strip on right edge, some 5-10 px wide). Otherwise, I see no difference.

If I will ever need DNGs, I can use Adobe DNG converter on PEFs at any time
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 04-01-2015, 11:39 PM  
Metz 64 AF-1 Auto Zoom
Posted By elektrolitr
Replies: 35
Views: 6,517
Do you use direct flash or bounce it?
Forum: Pentax K-3 03-16-2015, 11:20 PM  
K3 and Yongnuo IV Speedlights Wireless Sync Problem?
Posted By elektrolitr
Replies: 6
Views: 1,748
If you have Youngnuos 560 IV, then get Youngnuo yn-560-TX controller, it will trigger your flashes by radio (much more reliable than optical) and also will control power and zoom of flashes from controller (you will need to touch flashes only to switch on and off).

You can put one of Yongnuo's on camera and use it as controller, as well.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 03-14-2015, 12:43 AM  
Anyone else miss the K200D?
Posted By elektrolitr
Replies: 1,023
Views: 172,328
All the photographers use (nearly) the same equipment, the same programs and the same PP. But the results are so different! I can't imagine why :)



Yesterday I found a topic which describes that most battery-related problems on old AA-powered cameras are due to damaged capacitor in power input and connecting one more in parallel with batteries could help.

I don't have time just now to search, but I'll try to find it later.

P.S. Here it is:
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/6-pentax-dslr-discussion/13335-ist-dl-batteries-3.html
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 03-13-2015, 09:13 AM  
Anyone else miss the K200D?
Posted By elektrolitr
Replies: 1,023
Views: 172,328
Wow! These are awesome! I dream to learn making HDRs as good, but I'm not even close.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 03-12-2015, 09:05 AM  
appreciate the K100D
Posted By elektrolitr
Replies: 329
Views: 49,326
I agree. It's hard to imagine louder camera than K100D (in Pentax line-up, of course). And this mirror really causes camera to jump up in your hands!

But this can't spoil the party, I'm still fan of that little plastic beauty!

One of my favourite shots with K100Ds:

Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 03-09-2015, 01:47 AM  
appreciate the K100D
Posted By elektrolitr
Replies: 329
Views: 49,326
it's exactly my experience. K100Dsuper was my first DSLR, and I was so excited that bought a K-5. This was completely different experience. K-5 is awesome camera, but you have to fight it too much. I sold K-5 after two years with no regret, while K100D is still in my bag.

The good thing is that I have K-3 now and it features the same Pentax genes inside despite Ricoh label.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 03-07-2015, 12:54 PM  
appreciate the K100D
Posted By elektrolitr
Replies: 329
Views: 49,326
Straight from camera

DA40XS f5.6

Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 03-05-2015, 01:06 PM  
100D Super battery life?
Posted By elektrolitr
Replies: 14
Views: 851
From that I've seen you can leave any card (and even cardboard sheet of proper size) in place of key and everything will work.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 03-05-2015, 11:49 AM  
100D Super battery life?
Posted By elektrolitr
Replies: 14
Views: 851
Charge time depends solely on your battery charger. 10-12 h charge is a good idea (it's good for batteries), but not so good for user (which has to wait a bit, not a problem if can leave overnight).

I use Lacrosse BC700 and usually charge with 500mA current, it takes about 6h to complete.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 03-04-2015, 12:10 AM  
100D Super battery life?
Posted By elektrolitr
Replies: 14
Views: 851
My K100D Super has done 800 exposures on one set of Eneloops in two week voyage and batteries were not fully exausted (camera showed half battery and sometimes empty, but not blinking empty).

Now it's my always-carry-with-me-just-in-case camera (with 40xs), so I shoot maybe 10-20-30 images per month and recharge batteries about once per year

My *istD is able to get at least 500 exposures on one set of Eneloops, maybe even more
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 03-01-2015, 12:55 PM  
K100d debug mode.
Posted By elektrolitr
Replies: 14
Views: 2,223
I have K100D Super and it does support SDM. I doubt that SDM support and Debug mode possibilities are related.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 02-26-2015, 01:42 AM  
K100d debug mode.
Posted By elektrolitr
Replies: 14
Views: 2,223
Looked today into Debug mode menu and didn't find any lens-EEPROM related items

Sad, but that's life
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