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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 2 Hours Ago  
Worthless Thieves! Stole my K3!!!
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 6
Views: 323
This is even assuming they can sell the camera in the first place - they don't have the charger for the battery, that usually raises alarm bells with many of the pre-loved equipment sellers I know.


Just over a month ago I had a $13,000 flute stolen from me on a train...so I know how you feel. The instrument is Insured - however instrument is unique, and replacing it will be difficult.
Forum: Pentax K-5 13 Hours Ago  
Post Your K5IIs Pictures Here!
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 2,231
Views: 313,662
It isn't a contest, it's really more of a mark of how well built the K5IIs is. However I tend to hang around the flash sync speed with my cameras wherever it lies - people who use faster shutter speeds, or slower ones may have differing experiences regarding shutter consistency and durability. I was genuinely surprised to see how high the shutter count was, my K10 has easily done over 100K and it is still going. My high end Nikon and Canon cameras have been through a few shutter replacements and my Leica cameras get their lens based leaf shutters serviced more often due to the inherent issues*. The 645Z shutter unit has been replaced once and my three K1s are all over 50K



* I get my S lenses checked every 20,000 firings - leaf shutters can cause inconsistent exposure if they aren't properly maintained. Leica cameras aren't just expensive to own, you have to be able to afford to look after them.
Forum: Pentax K-5 1 Day Ago  
Post Your K5IIs Pictures Here!
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 2,231
Views: 313,662
I recently did a shutter count check on my K5IIs with PhotoMe and was rather stunned, my K5IIs that I bought new in 2012 [and has never even been in a service center] has 283K on the clock and is still ticking.



Pentax K5IIs - Pentax FA*250-600mm f/5.6 ED IF @500mm f/5.6 ISO800 1/1000th
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 1 Day Ago  
RPX 25 + red filter == way too much contrast
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 20
Views: 788
yes, I am. The unmixed components can last for decades if properly stored, 10 years is a conservative estimate IMO.






I have no experience with RPX whatsoever so I'll leave it to your judgement - however I know Rodinal, and reduced dilution and increased agitation appears to have had unfortunate side effect of heightened activity in the highlights: causing them to blow out. Hence why I suggested a higher dilution with lower frequency agitation whilst keeping the temperature and duration of the development the same.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 1 Day Ago  
RPX 25 + red filter == way too much contrast
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 20
Views: 788
You're overthinking it Tuco, all i'm quoting is the technical data. I wouldn't expect a 0.25 stop to make all that much of a difference*. I develop T-max 100 at 20C, i'm not expecting a world of difference if I develop at 22.1C .


* Though i'm sure we can both agree that when all things are otherwise equal at the capture phase a lot of small things can lead to visible differences for good or ill in the quality of the negatives.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 2 Days Ago  
RPX 25 + red filter == way too much contrast
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 20
Views: 788
2.25 stops is what one should expect of Teutonic precision. 1/2 stop should be close enough, negative films handle overexposure better than digital can.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 2 Days Ago  
Cibachrome's last days
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 13
Views: 673
Seems to me the longer you live: the number of things you lose rises exponentially.

This post contains hidden content
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 2 Days Ago  
Please, don't let me buy the DFA 15-30...
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 18
Views: 757
Here is the crux of the situation.:lol:
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 2 Days Ago  
RPX 25 + red filter == way too much contrast
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 20
Views: 788
Das ist sehr gut!


The film doesn't seem to have too much red sensitivity - from the look of the curves compared to a pretty standard film like T-max 100 sensitivity extends further into the IR range than RPX 25. The recommended filter factor for a no.25 red filter in the publication for RPX 25 is 2.25 stops, for Kodak T-max 100 the no.25 red filter calls for 3 stops correction.
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 2 Days Ago  
New gear on Photokina
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 21
Views: 1,881
Yes, we know. A few lenses on the roadmap that have yet to materialize. Perhaps an announcement of some hybridized EVIL camera.





You should know by now that statement isn't original. If you know something spill it, being coy about it is just annoying - we are going to find out eventually.





A Binaural microphone head for the Theta VR? A re-design and expansion of the FA limited line of lenses? An announcement of a new nanotech lens coating which is every bit as obscure as to what it actually does as Aero Bright? A pair of weather resistant hiking shoes with the Pentax logo on the tread*? A polaroid camera? A fully articulated remote controllable Hatsune Miku doll with big anime eyes that are actually cameras that hook up to a VR headset - an Anime styled drone? I don't know, I'm just throwing stuff at the wall and seeing what sticks: Which, coincidentally, is the exact impression I get of the methods employed by pentax's marketing department.


* I would probably buy a pair.
Forum: Pentax K-1 3 Days Ago  
Post your K-1 pictures!
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 16,439
Views: 1,444,928
Just a simple shot of orchids


Pentax K-1 - Sigma 180mm f/3.5 APO EX @ f/11 ISO 100 1/200th - 2 Godox AD 360 flash units used.



And here is a quick and dirty diagram of how I did it:




The lighting ratio appears to be 1:2 but the red/blue filters I used to create the background ate up a ton of light - the Ratio is probably closer to 1:6. I use grids/honeycombs a lot, I'm a big fan of the amount of control they offer. I used the natural fall off from the grid on the background light to create the gradient on the background. I'm frequently disappointed manufacturers consider grids "optional" accessories with light modifiers these days, for a lot of my work I consider them to be Essential.
Forum: Lens Clubs 3 Days Ago  
The Sigma Lens Club- All lenses
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 2,051
Views: 313,824
Just a simple shot of orchids


Pentax K-1 - Sigma 180mm f/3.5 APO EX @ f/11 ISO 100 1/200th - 2 Godox AD 360 flash units used.



And here is a quick and dirty diagram of how I did it:




The lighting ratio appears to be 1:2 but the red/blue filters I used to create the background ate up a ton of light - the Ratio is probably closer to 1:6. I use grids/honeycombs a lot, I'm a big fan of the amount of control they offer. I used the natural fall off from the grid on the background light to create the gradient on the background. I'm frequently disappointed manufacturers consider them "optional" accessories with light modifiers these days, for a lot of my work I consider them to be Essential.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 3 Days Ago  
Dark circle in images from Tamron 17-50 f2.8
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 21
Views: 753
Got the E-mail about that - I can't say i'm happy about it either.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 3 Days Ago  
RPX 25 + red filter == way too much contrast
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 20
Views: 788
What was your frequency of agitation? You might want to try 1+100 that should knock the contrast back a stop or two.






I tried to find spectral sensitivity curves on this film but I can't seem to find anything from a reputable source - It may well have heightened red sensitivity and might benefit from having exposure pulled back 1/2 a stop when shooting with a red filter.






Agitation has pronounced effect on highlights, and it doesn't help that Rodinal is particularly aggressive in these areas*. Which is why I switched to pyro staining developers as their staining characteristic tempers aggressive development that can occur with increased agitation. The main two drawbacks of Pyro Vs Rodinal is Pyro is toxic and the developing solution requires very pure constituents and even then it has a short shelf life.


* stock to mid dilutions, at high dilutions it is more subdued. With larger formats [6X6 and up] Rodinal it is prone to getting exhausted so increased agitation or lower dilution is needed.
Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories 4 Days Ago  
Thematic Cats!
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 257
Views: 17,051
They certainly are, little Tigger is also a fan of trying to squeeze into paper bags he has no possibility of fitting into:





The resulting frustration of the unsuitability of the paper bag results in renovations taking place :


Forum: Travel, Events, and Groups 6 Days Ago  
Antarctica kit
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 46
Views: 1,300
just be prepared for the aroma that results when birds live in close proximity.:fedup:
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 05-18-2018, 11:05 PM  
Can anyone explain what caused this?
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 21
Views: 1,203
That was my first thought too.

De-lamination is common with polarisers, I have never seen it occur with my Lee Polariser or ND filters. Though with certain mid to low tier filters I have seen all kinds of manufacturing disasters.

This is isn't a simple matter of light entering the viewfinder which invariably leaves horizontal lines on the image, this could be a bizarre combination of things going wrong at the same time - I'm looking at the fogging and deep magenta cast that appears on the right side of the shoreline.

You weren't trying to use pixel shift by any chance?
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 05-18-2018, 01:44 AM  
Dark circle in images from Tamron 17-50 f2.8
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 21
Views: 753
It isn't at all improbable that condensation formed inside the lens somewhere, and managed to pick up some grease/dust and when it dried up, left a deposit upon the surface of a lens element somewhere in the rear cell of the lens.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 05-17-2018, 05:05 AM  
Dark circle in images from Tamron 17-50 f2.8
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 21
Views: 753
Does the blob show up the same size no matter what focal length you are using? or does it vary?




That's because what you have shown us is flare, non-image forming light. The blob you have depicted is smaller than this, and would be hidden in the shadows of this overexposed image.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 05-17-2018, 05:05 AM  
Dark circle in images from Tamron 17-50 f2.8
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 21
Views: 753
Does the blob show up the same size no matter what focal length you are using? or does it vary?




That's because what you have shown us is flare, non-image forming light. The blob you have depicted is smaller than this, and would be hidden in the shadows of this overexposed image.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 05-16-2018, 10:44 PM  
Dark circle in images from Tamron 17-50 f2.8
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 21
Views: 753
No, it doesn't. However, I would get the lens checked - of only to remedy the issues when it is zoomed to 50mm.


One could argue this is largely semantics, but If a lens is projecting an image with such inhomogenities in its illumination pattern, there is clearly something rotten in the state of denmark. Retrofocus wide angle lenses at their widest focal length can extend inside the mirror box of an APS-C camera to the point where small spots on the sensor can become visually more apparent than they ordinarily would be. The Sigma 8-16mm f/4.5-5.6 is a lens that Is annoyingly good at highlighting this.



Is the position of the spot consistent? does is appear under controllable conditions? Have you tried using the Pentax lens in a situation where the spot does appear with the tamron lens?
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 05-16-2018, 09:14 PM  
Dark circle in images from Tamron 17-50 f2.8
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 21
Views: 753
It could possibly be an oil spot on the sensor itself. Particulate matter inside lenses has to be either at a critical point in the optical path or of an extraordinary size to be visible in photos depending on focal length and aperture.

Does the spot appear at apertures f/8>= ? If the spot appears at wider apertures, than this it is probably the sensor that is at fault: rather than the lens. The reason for this is the sensor stack is closer to the sensor than the rear element of the lens will ever get. Thus anything on the sensor stack will have a visible effect long before anything in the lens shows up. It is just a simple process of elimination.



By definition: Flare is non-image forming light, a dark spot indicates an absence of light. So calling it flare is a bit of a misnomer.
Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories 05-16-2018, 03:19 AM  
Thematic Cats!
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 257
Views: 17,051
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 05-11-2018, 06:24 PM  
Users of ND filters.
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 14
Views: 654
Exactly, Light leaks anywhere in the optical path are exacerbated with long exposure durations and can lead to completely unusable images. I'd recommend using the holder designed by Lee to suit this filter - using anything else will might save you money but will likely result in less than optimal results.
Forum: Travel, Events, and Groups 05-07-2018, 04:55 PM  
Antarctica kit
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 46
Views: 1,300
I see the cap on the Tullibardine and the Irishman haven't been opened yet?
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