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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 04-16-2015, 05:31 AM  
Fisheye recommendations?
Posted By kh1234567890
Replies: 22
Views: 2,062
If you are after a fisheye then the Samyang is a better lens than the DA 10-17. I have both. And the DA15 Ltd.
Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories 01-26-2014, 04:33 PM  
Permanently attach M42 adapter to lens
Posted By THoog
Replies: 15
Views: 3,193
Do both! :) I have one genuine Pentax adapter that I use for testing or for "special" lenses, several cheap Chinese adapters permanently attached to other lenses, and Kipon adapters with the inner flange to press the auto pin on my Carl Zeiss Jena lenses. The cheap adapters won't destroy the bayonet flanges on the body mount, but the screw holding the spring clip on the adapter usually protrudes and jams or scrapes the mount - always remove the spring and screw! That's what causes most problems with stuck adapters. Sometimes the edges on a cheap adapter are a little rough - when you first get one, visually inspect for any metal spurs, remove the spring and screw, and test-fit the adapter without a lens. And always remove the spring and screw!
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 01-10-2010, 05:42 PM  
What's the best 135mm M42 lens?
Posted By jimH
Replies: 49
Views: 168,040
You have LBA, but what the heck, if you can afford it and you are not depriving your family of food and housing, so what?:o
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 08-01-2011, 09:41 PM  
Rokinon 85mm f1.4 -- vs -- Super Takumar 85mm 1.9
Posted By yyyzzz
Replies: 30
Views: 17,251
Samyang seems to have made all of them including the Vivitar version. In fact, there are more than 4 different brands that I have seen. They are all pretty much the same. I have K85 f1.8 which is very good and has unique characters. But the Rokinon is sharper and has more contrast at f1.8. Buy the Tak with your heart and the Rok with your brain in case money is an issue.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 01-14-2012, 05:33 AM  
Any experience on Industar 50-2 50mm f/3.5 m42 pancake
Posted By geoffox23
Replies: 28
Views: 38,634
Hi Jools, Hinman and RioRico

I have all 3 versions of this little lens, so have found these to work...


I-50-2 for M42. push on hood = 37mm dia. filter size = 35.5mm

A step-up ring of 35.5mm-49mm allows use of your choice of 49mm hood.


I-50 for M39 SLR. push on hood = 36mm dia. filter size = 33mm

A step-up ring of 33mm-43mm then another ring 43mm-49mm.


I-50 for M39-L39 rangefinder as per M39 SLR, but this lens is not useful on DSLR, but OK on NEX.


It is a bit tricky to see the aperture settings with the rings fitted and if you touch the hood whilst focusing, the settings alter, but that's how it is.

If you prefer, genuine push on hoods and caps are still available from alex-photo and others in Ukraine on ebay.

Cheers

Geoff
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-08-2013, 11:29 PM  
Pentax-m 85mm f2 VS Jupiter 9
Posted By stevebrot
Replies: 7
Views: 2,812
For clarification...the aperture ring on a J-9 has stepped click stops. It is the stop-down (pre-set) ring that is stepless. The trick is to set the aperture at f/16 and use the pre-set ring to smoothly close the blades.


Steve
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 05-15-2012, 11:48 PM  
Best Budget(ish) macro for the K-5???
Posted By Boris
Replies: 30
Views: 3,956
The FA 100/3.5 (and a matching two element adapter, which is in fact a universal close up filter of 49 mm diameter) is great optic. Build is plastic but optics are great. There're third party equivalents (Cosina, etc) that are exactly the same sans the coatings. Wonderful optic for like USD 150 or so.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 12-10-2009, 10:27 AM  
Best budget macro lens?
Posted By stevebrot
Replies: 15
Views: 10,697
Don't worry. There will be another one. The first rule of buying used equipment:
Don't Become Emotionally Attached To Something You Are Interested In Buying!!!
No matter how good the item. No matter how rare. No matter how good a deal.

Trust me on this ;)

Steve

(Spent twice the actual value on my first used lens...)
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 08-22-2014, 10:27 PM  
Any cheap options for the 85mm focal length?
Posted By Miguel
Replies: 27
Views: 2,652
The 85mm focal length as an ideal for portraits was originated in the film era. On a cropped-sensor camera body it becomes a moderate telephoto, which of course works for portraits, but it is not the same rendering.

To better match the intention consider the SMC 55mm f1.8 Super Takumar. It is a classic. I enjoy the colors and beautiful rendering of skin with this lens. You should be able to pick one up for under $50.

M
Forum: Pentax K-5 07-08-2014, 02:25 PM  
Pentax k5ii lens release button
Posted By narual
Replies: 24
Views: 2,968
There's no screwing or unscrewing with the replacement. It's glue and pressure. There are instructions in the forum if you dig for them.

It involved putting a circlip over the hole and gluing a rubber cone to the button, and more glue on the bottom of the cone, then pressing the button hard enough to force the circlip through the hole, and not using it til the glue dries. And if you're smart, covering the button with a piece of electrical tape so you don't lose the button if it happens again.
Forum: Lens Clubs 09-28-2014, 08:34 AM  
SIGMA 10-20mm CLUB
Posted By Sagitta
Replies: 3,822
Views: 857,840
With the 10-20mm you can get a LOT more in the frame than at 16mm. Fuzziness in the corners is to be expected, even with a 16mm you're going to have more movement at the edges then where you're focused which will lead to trailing/blur, so corner issues (largely) become a non-issue.

That said, I'd see if I could find the f/3.5 on sale if I were going for astrophotography over the 4-5.6. If you're zoomed in for a shot, f/2 is leaps and bounds more preferable over f/5.6 for shooting at night.

In your case, when dealing with just those two lenses, with what you intend to use them for, I'd go for the Samyang over the Sigma in a heartbeat. Considering I almost always argue "Go for the Sigma", that's saying a lot.
Forum: Post Your Photos! 09-13-2014, 11:46 PM  
Masonbo 50mm Lens Giveaway Entry
Posted By Masonbo
Replies: 4
Views: 555
Photography, over this last year, has become some sort of an obsession of mine. A year ago from now I would have laughed if someone thought I was a photographer, and I still do the same.

At this point in time I'm trudging through my senior year at my high school, trying to figure out what the heck I'm supposed to do with my life.

I love taking pictures, and over this past summer, I discovered the absolute joy of shooting 35mm. Nothing can compare to the feel of a Ricoh Kr-5 Super, hiking through the woods of a camp, glancing through the viewfinder, composing, correcting exposure by using the meter in the viewfinder.

Pentax got me.

Then I bought a K10d and I fell into a new sort of love with photography.

Now going back to the senior year part. This year, two of my absolute best friends, and the two people who made me obsessed with photography in the first place, and I are going to be starting up a photography fundraiser for our senior trip, doing family portraits and the like, and this is where the 50mm comes in. A nifty fifty is actually one of my dream lenses, and would be absolutely perfect for the sort of pictures that we would be taking.

I'm not saying I deserve this lens, because heck no, there are much more talented artists on here that actually might need it more than I do. I'm just saying consider me. Even though I've only been a part of this community for nearly three weeks, I can tell that I'm going to love being a part of it. Pentax forever.

This picture of my little brother was taken a few weeks ago, with a Sears 135 f2.8, one of my grandfather's lenses.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 08-21-2014, 06:04 PM  
Samyang for Astro/Night - 10/14/16
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 9
Views: 6,136
Samyang, Bower and Rokinon are one in the same lens, just rebadged.














You Tube





The main difference between the Samyang (el al) and the 15 Ltd is the aperture - f2.8 vs f4. For astrophotography, aperture is going to count for a lot. You are giving up an entire f stops, which is the difference between needing to shoot at ISO 1600 vs 3200. On the other hand, you can recover that difference by using the O-GPS1 that can provide up to 5 minutes of tracking, which is something that none of the other camera vendors can do, without sitting their bodies on a tracking base.

:cool:
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 08-18-2013, 11:08 AM  
Samyang or Carl Zeiss
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 16
Views: 4,398
Since you are looking for both the focal length and speed, here is another suggestion:
  • Contax Carl Zeiss 85mm f1.4 Planar T* - Again available used only, B&H has one for $750 - but you would need to convert the mount (Leitax.com can do the conversion also). This lens is the older and original version of the current ZK, same speed. The primary difference is the newer ZK offers the "A" interface. The Contax would be the equivalent of the "K" lens. The used lens on sale at B&H is the mm version (green f16 notation), that is necessary for the mount swap.

Here is a comparison between the Contax and the Rokinon which I believe is the Samyang.Here is a review of the Contax vs the newer Zeiss (in the Canon mount)Here is a discussion on the Zeiss 85/1.4 ZK and the 77LtdIn the end, it is your evaluation in terms of what is best for your particular use and application.

:cool:
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-31-2014, 04:49 AM  
Can this be repaired?
Posted By elliott
Replies: 8
Views: 1,189
That is common for many lenses, especially zooms because temperature can affect it. Better to go to far than not far enough. I don't have the 35-105, but 0.5mm sounds acceptable to me.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 03-30-2014, 04:50 AM  
What is this? (Dust on sensor?)
Posted By Schraubstock
Replies: 24
Views: 2,983
Hi

Looking at you sample images I would almost be certain (in fact I tink I am certain) that the "schmutz" on your sensor is nothing else but dust. However, dust can be of a lot of different substances depending on the environment the camera is used in. Think of organic matter such as pollen or skin flakes (very common), chemical substances (they are all around us), mineral and metallic particles and clothing fluff. Some of the organic stuff has a habit of sticking nicely on smooth surfaces when the get a bit of humidity or moisture. If they stay on long enough they are usually a bit stubborn to remove as they literally weld themselves tight. Metals, whether ferrous or non-ferrous can oxidise and get stuck on the sensor easily.

Well, firstly forget about the blower. If the blower removes some bits you are lucky and if you do they fly around uncontrollably inside your mirror chamber to come back to bite you in the bum later. Sure, people report great success stories but really all they have done is to remove the offending crap temporarily. If I have a choice to spot the dirt on the sensor with a sensor loupe and pick off the dirt with a special static brush one by one I will take this option every time. I then know where the dust is - outside the camera.

So how do you tackle this problem. Well, if picking off dirt with a sensor brush like the Artic Butterfly Arctic Butterfly sensor brush. Sensor cleaning, remove dust. does not work you are in for a wet clean. However here you can still face some problems. (as has been reported many time.)

If you are confronted with crap on you sensor that is seemingly unwilling to be shifted with a wet cleaning procedure it may just simply be a case that the wrong cleaning agent (fluid) is used.

Consider this:

In simple chemistry terms the solubility of a substance is determent by its so-called polarity. Molecules with many polar bonds are soluble in polar solvents. Molecules with none or few polar bonds are soluble in non-polar solvent.

Polar substances for example are water, alcohol or ether. Methanol/Ethanol/Propanol (which are the most common sensor cleaning fluids) are none polar. (I hope I remember this correctly) This simply means that none polar substances can't be solved with polar fluids and vickie versa.

So, if you don't know the makeup of the crap on you sensor, you may have to try to solve the problem (pun not intended) by using or experimenting with different fluids.

If your attempt to remove the crap with none polar fluid was unsuccessful it means the crap could be of polar nature. Since water is polar I would get some distilled water, moisten a sensor swipe with it liberally (without dripping) target the crap, hold the swipe over it for a while to give it a chance to soften and then wipe it off with a gentle swipe. Distilled water will not harm your sensor! (As long as you don't drown it). You can do this several times until everything is clear (Use a new swipe every time) and the distilled water won't leave marks on the AA Filter. Distilled water will still have traces of Magnesium, Calium, Calcium, Chloride, Sulphate, Phosphate in it but they are of such minute level not to be of importance. I know from reports on this forum here that distilled water has worked well for a lot of people. Of course sensor cleaning vendors don't want you to know this because the can't sell you 10ml distilled water for $40.00.

For non-polar crap I use 98% pure Ethanol which I buy from the chemist for a Dollar. 100% pure Ethanol is not possible and the 2% is just water. In fact an open Ethanol bottle will absorb further water from the ambient air. No problems here as the extra "polar water" will help in removing polar crap from the sensor and it also makes it slower evaporating which further helps the cleaning process. In fact I add a wee drop of distilled water to the Ethanol for this purpose.

Good luck. (Actually you don't need luck, as sensor cleaning is a simple task only made important and dangerous sounding by vendors who want to sell you cheap stuff at 2000% inflated prices.)

Sorry for the long post.

Greetings
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 08-02-2010, 09:52 AM  
Dirty Sensor?
Posted By JeffJS
Replies: 13
Views: 6,493
Adam has already said that there are too many sticky's right now. Rather an article needs to be written with no external links (as he put it). So here goes.. I'll add to this later on but I want to get it started.

Many if not all of us have or will discover strange black spots on our photos. Sometimes they show up only when we pixel peep other times we can see them on our little LCD screens on the rear of the camera. There are several causes of these little black spots but mostly, we've discovered the universal truth about our DSLRs. That is, No matter What we do, how careful we are, Dust is EVERYWHERE and WILL eventually end up on our sensors. Rather, the filter covering the sensor.

The sensor and anti-aliasing (and IR block) filter are a sealed unit so the likelihood of dust actually on the sensor is pretty slim. Cameras that flip the filter out of the way for night vision not withstanding. The filter however is a sensitive surface and can be scratched. Once that happens, be prepared to spend $400+ to have your camera fixed (anecdotal evidence only). There are several methods of removing the dust and all have their risks with the possible exception of Pentax's dust removal shake the sensor system.

Now that I've scared you here is the good news. Damaging the sensor filter isn't as likely to happen as one might think. There are hundreds if not thousands of articles out there on the web about the dangers of cleaning your own sensor screen (the filter over the sensor) and how to do it. This is just another one admittedly but I'm writing this hopefully to put the mind of the new guy (or gal) at ease here at PF.

So what to do?

First, Make sure you actually HAVE a dusty sensor (one spec is a dusty sensor). I cannot tell you how many times I've thought I had to clean my sensor only to discover that I need to clean my computer monitor screen instead.

Second, Find the dust. The K20d, the K7, and I believe the Kx all have dust mapping functions. These will show where the dust lies on the sensor. Keep in mind here that the image you see in your photos is actually inverted from what the sensor sees. Objects on the top of your photos are recorded on the bottom of the sensor due to the way our lenses work. If you do not have a camera with a mapping function you can check by setting your lens to the smallest aperture and taking a picture of the sky, a blank wall, a blank white screen on your computer monitor (clean the screen first). Taking the photo is actually better because the dust mapping functions can be fooled by camera motion, texture on the wall, etc. If using a photo, don't worry about camera shake, the dust will show because the dust is not moving (with respect to the sensor) during the test exposure. In Fact, it would probably be better to Move the camera during the exposure to rule out other Objects (like Birds) Being dust.

NOTE that you CANNOT see the dust on the Sensor by looking through the Viewfinder of the camera. Nor will you see dust on the lens. It is also unlikely that you will see dust on the mirror. If you are seeing dust in your viewfinder, it is either on the focusing screen or the viewfinder glass itself. It is annoying but it will have zero affect on your photos

Now that you've Found your dust bunnies (I'll post some sample pictures later on), what to do about cleaning them. Several options are available and if you ask 10 people you'll 10 different answers. In order below are what I do.

1. Clone it out in post processing. This is by far the simplest and least intrusive method. You're going to have to anyway in order to save your photo. This is also the most Tedious method, going through a group of photos cloning out little specs of dust. There are ways of doing it in Batches but from my experience, these require software like Adobe Bridge that can take the (selected) develop settings from one photo and apply it Several. Your software may include the capability to record scripts. Lines of commands that are saved in an action to be recalled later (My watermark and border on my photos are the results of such actions). Either way, if you are only seeing spots on a couple photos once in awhile, it probably isn't worth going beyond option 3 below unless it Really annoys you.

2. Try the dust shaker built into the camera. This is a cleaning mode accessed in the Setup menu of the camera. You may have to do this several times and it may or may not work. Check between shaker activations to see if it's working or if it's just bouncing the dust around the sensor (typical). If the dust is moving, that's good news because it isn't Stuck on the sensor. If it isn't, then a touch the sensor cleaning method may be required.

3. If the shaker didn't work, the next line of defense is the blower. This is as far as Pentax recommends going with sensor cleaning. Once the AA filter is scratched, the entire sensor assembly has to be replaced (remember that $400+ price tag?). The most recommended accessory for this is the Giottos Rocket Blower (get the big one, don't skimp here). To use the blower:
  1. Make sure your batteries are charged.

  2. Turn the camera on with no lens mounted and enter the Cleaning mode located in the setup menu. This will flip the mirror up and open the shutter. While pointing the camera downward, give the sensor a few blasts with the blower. Be careful not to touch the sensor with the nozzle as it may scratch the filter.

  3. Turn off the camera to leave cleaning mode.

  4. Test for effectiveness and repeat if needed.


Side note here. Some will tell you NOT to use Canned air. There are a few here however who swear by using it. If you are going to do so, use a name brand can, expel some air from the can before pointing it at your sensor, and use short blasts only. DO NOT use Compressed air from a compressor. It can be full of water and even may have oil (remember that $400+ price tag?). Do Not use a nearly Empty can of air on your sensor as it may spit propellant at that point (remember that $400 + price tag?)

Ok, The shaker and Blower have failed to get things completely clean. Now you have to actually touch the sensor filter. Several options are out there, these are the ones I've tried and what I have found.

4. Dry clean. This includes things like brushes and sticky wands (Pentax O-ICK1 cleaning kit).

A. Brushes. If you decide to use a brush on your sensor, make sure it is CLEAN and Soft. You can find brushes claiming to be suitable on ebay for about $10. You can also go to the cosmetics department of your favorite store and get a Makeup brush. Whatever you choose to use, again, make sure it is CLEAN and make sure to use it Only on the sensor.

There is also what I call the $90 Spinning Paintbrush. This is a product made by Visible Dust called the Arctic Butterfly. The theory is that spinning the brush real fast will static charge the brush causing it to act basically as a magnet to for the dust. What it probably Actually does, is neutralize the dust so it will just fall off the sensor screen. If this unit works for you, great, use it in good health. I personally didn't see the $90 value in it.

To use either brush method, enter cleaning mode hold the camera facing downward and lightly drag the brush across the sensor. I've seen internet advice saying to briskly whack the bristles of the paint brush across a piece of stainless steel silverware or similar to give it the same type of charge as the arctic butterfly. It may work for you, it never has for me.

B. If the brush scares or fails you there is the sticky wand. I prefer Pentax's O-ICK1 cleaning kit. It is the ONLY thing I've ever tried that worked exactly as advertised. It can be difficult to find and is a little expensive. It is basically a large sticky rubberish object on the end of a plastic stick and it's supplied with a pad of cleaning papers.

The method of use is as follows:
  1. Charge your batteries

  2. Enter Cleaning Mode in the Setup Menu

  3. Carefully and lightly press the sensor with the wand

  4. Wipe the wand off on a NEW part of the cleaning paper. The paper is large enough to handle 4 or 5 of these and you discard the sheet after use. The key here is Dab, Wipe, Dab, Wipe. Don't just dab around the sensor without cleaning the wand between dabs.

  5. Repeat on each area of the sensor until finished.

  6. Check for effect and repeat if needed.


There are also lens pen type devices out there but I've never tried them, use at your own risk. I personally believe (and may be wrong) that these can further Smudge things on the sensor making things worse. If you can actually SEE the dust (magnifying loupes are available for this), and can readily locate it, these lens pen type devices may be an ok way to go.

5. The Dry cleaning methods have failed. The spec is fused to your sensor somehow. Blowing and Brushing doesn't move it and the sticky stick didn't grab it. It may be pollen or some other such microbe that is just sticky and hangs on for dear life. It may also be that it isn't dust at all but a tiny microbial droplet of water has dried on your sensor. If it were just plain dust or some small fuzzy, it probably would be gone at this point. Time for a wet clean.

Again, there are several methods, both commercial and home remedy solutions out there. The Commercial ones are just as expensive as everything else. I've tried this 2 times so I am not an expert on the wet clean but here is what I've run across.

Sensor Swabs and Eclips II. Made and or marketed by Photographic solutions. They offer the guarantee that their products will Not harm your sensor. It is after all, an optical cleaning solution. What it really is, is some type of pure Methonal. The key to using this stuff is that it evaporates fast so there is no need to continually polish the sensor screen afterwards (more on that in a moment). In order to fully protect yourself under their guarantee, you also have to buy their sensor swabs. These come typically in boxes of 12 and are available in 3 different sizes. The ones intended for Canon sized APS-C sensors are probably the closest to the Pentax sensor size. These are not Wide enough to Cover the sensor so I don't see what the hubub over size is here.

This is the rub. You put 1 or 2 drops of the E2 on the end of the swab. You then Drag it across the sensor. You Flip the swab so you are dealing with a clean space and then drag it Back over the remaining area of the sensor. Get all that? Now they want you to take a second swab and drag it dry across the sensor in the same manner. Follow that by a third swab. The swabs end up costing about $3+ each as they are $36+ per box of 12.

Now, I will Readily admit that the time I had to go here, the swab and E2 DID loosen the stuck dust particles. It did NOT however, remove it. I had to go to the I-OCK1 to complete the cleaning.

I said I've tried a couple methods of wet clean. Both are really the same but for the second, I made my own swabs out of the third product that Photographic Solutions offers, the Pec-Pads. Like everything else, these have their naysayers. I believe I remember reading that Canon, simply uses a piece of this material and a tweezers to scrub the sensor when They clean them. Good enough for them, good enough for us. Just be careful not to scratch something with the tweezers. You may have to go to the blower afterwords to get rid of a fiber or two.

Other wet methods commercially available are from Visible Dust (the spinning paintbrush people). The method of using their products are probably a hybrid of the sensor swab technique and what I describe I read (that is READ) Canon does. I have not invested any money in their cleaning system so I cannot repoort on how well it works (or doesn't).

6. The last and final method of cleaning the sensor is to have someone else do it. This can be a local shop or factory service. If you're really brave, hire the next guy you see walking down the street to do it. The one time I looked into having it done locally, the price was $50 and there were no guarantees against it reoccuring (they would be silly to offer that sort of guarantee). I read here on PF of someone paying Pentax sercice $170 for the service. I don't know what else he got for his money though.

The bottom line is this when it comes to cleaning your sensor. As long as you are careful with your methods and materials, it isn't as daunting a task as you may fear. There are those who swear by their methods as if they are the second coming. There are others who will swear against the same methods just as passionately. Start lite, Find what works for you, and stick with it. Unless you've been out in a pollen storm or it rained on your sensor or you spit on it trying to use your built in blower, a WET clean is rarely needed.

_______________________________________________

To AVOID dust. A few tips that I think work for me.
  • Keep the Mirror box and lens mount clean.

  • Change lenses in as clean an environment as possible. When changing lenses, Point the camera downward to keep anything from falling in to the mirror box. Avoid Wind hitting the camera while the lens is off. Also, turn off the camera when changing lenses.

  • Keep the rear of your lens clean.

  • Keep your rear Lens cap clean.

  • If you use a Body Cap, keep IT clean too.



(Stay tuned)..


:cool:
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-18-2014, 08:56 AM  
Should I ask a partial refund for this Pentax-A 28/2?
Posted By MegaPower
Replies: 27
Views: 2,234
A Ding or scratch on glass will not significant affect your image.
It would lower the contrast and sharpness. However, it is very minimum unless it's more than 50% of the area.
Damage on the rear element could cause bigger problem compared to the front element.

Looking to your glass, I think it is very tiny and it won't affect your image at all. (Not to human eyes.)
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-18-2014, 06:44 AM  
Should I ask a partial refund for this Pentax-A 28/2?
Posted By Ishpuini
Replies: 27
Views: 2,234
I used to have a second hand FA*85/1.4 that had the same kind of blemish on its rear element. It never showed on any shot, nor did I notice irregular contrast or sharpness on any image. Similar to your case, the spot was situated sufficiently far off-center, which made it fall outside the optical path when the lens was stopped down (large enough DOF that it might be noticed), and on the contrary, when shooting wide open, DOF was too short and any spot on the rear element blurred too much to see any localized effect. There was no overall effect either, as the lens was sharp and contrasty.

Of course, at 85mm DOF is much shorter than at 28mm and as such perception may be different. Do try shooting a evenly textured subject framed to fill the image (preferably at close range at different apertures), to see whether sharpess or contrast falls off in the area of the blemish.

Wim

PS: I sold my FA*85/1.4, but not because of this blemish. The lens was too big for me and the 85mm focal length just didn't work for me on APS-C.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-18-2014, 06:35 AM  
Should I ask a partial refund for this Pentax-A 28/2?
Posted By mrNewt
Replies: 27
Views: 2,234
Oh man... I would not worry about that! It should not affect your image ;).
Enjoy the lens :).

And well... by ding I meant to say a chip in the lens :lol:

Btw, that rear element is in need of some cleaning.
I see some smudges :).
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 02-26-2014, 09:08 AM  
Can this be repaired?
Posted By elliott
Replies: 8
Views: 1,189
Bent filter rings happen quite often and there is a tool specifically made to repair it.
Small Lens Vise Tool Repair Filter Ring Professional 30mm to 105mm Steel New | eBay
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 02-26-2014, 05:07 AM  
Can this be repaired?
Posted By atupdate
Replies: 8
Views: 1,189
Send an email with the pictures or the link to Eric. He does a ton of lens repair work and he would know if it is even possible and will provide an estimate.

Eric's Homepage

Eric Hendrickson
pentax27@aol.com
188 Shoffner Rd
Sharps Chapel, TN 37866
Fax/phone 865 278-1051

Tim
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 02-25-2014, 07:15 AM  
Tamron SP 60-300 f3.8-5.6 or smc-fa 100-300 f4.7-5.8?
Posted By GibbyTheMole
Replies: 12
Views: 1,482
I have the Tamron 60-300, and I also have a Pentax DA-L 55-300. The Tamron is very similar in IQ to the Pentax DA 55-300, which is to say it's very good. The Tamron also has a real macro mode which gets you up to 1:1.55 magnification.

That particular FA 100-300 is very well-regarded, though. I don't think you'd go wrong with either.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 02-25-2014, 08:46 AM  
Tamron SP 60-300 f3.8-5.6 or smc-fa 100-300 f4.7-5.8?
Posted By vonBaloney
Replies: 12
Views: 1,482
I've had both (silver FA), both have very good IQ. You'll probably see more green/magenta bokeh fringing on the Tamron (all of the Adaptalls are like that). The Tamron will be harder to use aperture-wise even with a PKA mount because it is variable aperture depending on zoom setting and the mount doesn't account for that. And it is much bigger and heavier than the FA (which is surprisingly lightweight). But it is a pleasure to manually focus, and the macro mode is nice. You need to use a hood (often not included) with either one of them -- the front element is not recessed at all.

The FA is a terrible lens for manual focus design-wise, so plan on AF only if you go that route. No macro mode, minimum distance is 5 feet or so. Considering the IQ, both tend to be great bargains -- the FA usually goes for $75-$90, the Tamron about 20 bucks less. The FA is harder to find. (I actually have a copy of the Tamron for sale if anyone is interested.) If you shoot things that move or want to keep the size/weight down, I'd go with the FA. If shooting slow and deliberate and want to shoot close-up to close-up objects, the Tamron is a fine choice. (The macro mode is somewhat hard to get into on some copies apparently, although on mine it works great.)
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 02-25-2014, 12:06 PM  
Tamron SP 60-300 f3.8-5.6 or smc-fa 100-300 f4.7-5.8?
Posted By GibbyTheMole
Replies: 12
Views: 1,482
The consensus is that the DA (or DA-L) 55-300 is a bit better.
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