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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
09-08-2020, 01:37 AM
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Cheap pentamirror vs pentaprism
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Forum: Photographic Industry and Professionals
08-20-2020, 01:24 AM
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On the trek to Machu Picchu the guide was quick to say "don't ever ask, how far is there to go?"
Nearly there!
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
02-25-2018, 05:31 AM
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I thought i read something years ago that the link between Pentax and Tokina was based on a blood relationship between original founders of both companies. No idea if it was true, but it sounded plausible.
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Forum: Welcomes and Introductions
02-18-2018, 05:38 PM
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Welcome laurie02!
I'm sure you will learn plenty here, I loved the K200D as long as the iso was kept down, great little camera.
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
02-06-2018, 05:53 PM
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Sorry in advance!
Czech yo self, before you wreck yo self !
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
08-17-2014, 03:41 PM
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If you go to the trouble of running someone over, you may as well grab the lens and scarper! I'm sure you're joking because that would be too risky in damaging the lens, but you can be sure I will be crossing the road with extra caution from now on. :)
I have seen another one sell in the past year, I was tempted but resisted. Luckily you still have age on your side.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
08-17-2014, 09:29 AM
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From my research the Sigma 400 apo macro was the best of its kind and it took well over a year for me to find one. I haven't been disappointed by its optical performance.
Don't give up the hunt Mirton!
Slight crop, wide open with a K5
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
08-17-2014, 08:18 AM
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My Sigma 300 isn't going anywhere! Looks sharp to me wide open and gets crisp at f4.5.
I too think the DA* 300 would be better, but not by much.
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Forum: Pentax K-5
09-12-2013, 03:03 AM
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Cheers mate, that did the trick! I'm glad now that I walked away....... ( Craig David style) :)
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Forum: Pentax K-5
09-11-2013, 11:16 PM
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Me too! Norton 360 didn't like the file, I tried to "run anyway" but it didn't work. The file is now missing.
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Forum: Photo Critique
02-20-2013, 10:53 PM
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I think it would have worked better taken on the other side of the road, it looks as if there may have been a car on that road lower down, which would have added some scale. It looks like a beautiful spot and i like the clouds shadows.
I did a couple of crops from the right hand side, where the river leads you towards the mountains and where they meet the clouds.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
02-18-2013, 03:45 PM
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I'm not sure where you are stuck. If you want to put the lens into macro mode, you will notice the 70mm focal length painted on the lens is green, at this setting turn the focus ring to minimum focus stop at 1.2m (painted yellow) now turn the lens to the "macro" area with the green line. You cannot enter macro at any longer focal length, hence the colour code. Minimum focus (maximum magnification 1:4) now is about 12 inches and can be adjusted along the green line zone. If shooting hand held it can be easier to set the distance on the lens and use your body to move the camera into focus. You would also set your SR length at start up to 70mm for macro use ( 135mm setting probably best if you are using the full zoom range as a compromise) and set the aperture ring on the lens to the "A" setting (also painted green) by depressing the little black button nearby as you turn the ring. This will allow you to adjust F stops with the camera thumb wheel.
Hope that helps.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
02-18-2013, 03:02 PM
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If you select the "A" setting on the aperture ring, the lens will function with the thumb wheel for f stops on the camera. You need to press the little silver button and turn the ring to enter the "A" setting on the lens. Custom menu #27 " using aperture ring" allows the camera/lens to function when you select f stops other than "A" on the aperture ring of the lens.You may also need to set SR length when you turn on the camera, try using 135mm as a compromise between 70-210mm.
Have fun
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
11-22-2012, 09:35 PM
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I start there too Dan with the focus charts, but it doesn't fit for all prime lenses. With zooms it can vary from min to max focal length.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
11-22-2012, 07:28 PM
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I have lenses that behave differently at infinity, so i would definately recommend finding a suitable distant target (communications tower etc) and checking AF @ f5.8 (several times reset to min focus) against your best manual focus on magnified live view. Take notes and also have a look on your monitor to compare. I have sometimes found suprising results and a better understanding of individual lens behavior.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
11-22-2012, 06:33 PM
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Mike it is not easy to tell with web based photos but to me the foreground in the cropped geese shot looks sharper than the birds.
Accurate focus will make a huge difference to a cropped image. If you haven't already, check the focus adjustment/calibration with the lens. With long lenses I also recheck calibration with a target set at the distance I most shoot at, especially close to infinity.
Further improvements in image quality can then be gained through, best aperture for resolution/lens, movement/shutter speed, lower iso = better sensor signal to noise & dynamic range, accurate exposure for no blown highlights or excessive shadow noise. All these things are amplified with a heavy crop and make a huge difference to the final image.
Once again looking at the geese shot, the exif shows 300mm 1/400 f8.0 400iso and I believe taken on a tripod. For example it may be possible to lower the shutter speed, you are stabilized from shake and distant subjects don't show as much movement, 1/200 would gain a stop to then reduce to 200iso.
I believe that most lenses when shot at their ideal parameters will yield good results, the only problem being a very narrow window for those parameters. Looking at the Sigma 135-400 @ 400mm f11 would be similar to your 300mm f8 resolution wise. So you will gain some length but only if the light is better will the quality be close to equal. On the other hand a quality prime like the DA300 has a fairly equal resolution from f4 - f11 and @ f4 should beat the peak f8 of your 55-300, all with an extra 2 stops up your sleeve.
In this instance, the 300/4 gives the best performance/weight ratio and an older 400/5.6 or 400/4 perf/price. For everything else (500/4.5 600/4 500/5.6 etc) there's mastercard.
Cheers, Dré.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
09-17-2012, 06:17 AM
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It will be a K mount body cap.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
08-26-2012, 06:20 PM
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I had a look at your photos and exif, it is hard to determine exactly what all the in camera settings were ( jpeg level,hi/lo correction etc) and how much they have been altered after.
It looks like you have just enough light to work with, importantly it will be consistent on the subject. Therefore I would use M mode and with spot metering and take some test shots to correctly expose the face. Once you have your settings, you know the camera metering cant be fooled to readjust by dark surrounds or any bright light sources in frame. You only have one variable (iso) available to you as shutter will need to be at 1/400 and aperture f5.6 (your fastest). Obviously a faster lens will give the opportunity to vary your aperture in trade for lower iso but more importantly give you much better IQ. From what I saw 1/400 was mostly fast enough and a good starting point, given your lighting. Some movement- hands/feet can add to the drama.
When shooting at higher iso, cropping becomes limited so having the right focal length will also be important to you. You said you were mostly cropping the 55mm so your choices could be Tamron 28-75 2.8, DA*50-135 2.8 or DFA 100 2.8 etc. Another thing to consider with focal length will be that the longer it is the shallower the DOF which will be further reduced by the faster aperture. Currently @ 55 f5.6 you will be getting 5m dof, part in front and part behind. A 135@2.8 will give you about 30cm. So you wont be worrying about movement of hands or feet as they will be oof anyway. Personally I would recommend 80-100mm @ f4.0, (dof between 1-2m) being an ideal balance.
As you can see the (2 stop) faster lens may only give you 1 stop in this instance = to 1 stop less noise but more equal to 3 stops IQ/resolution improvement of the final image, over the kit lens wide open.
I would also shoot RAW to maximise IQ through PP.
I hope that gives you some sort of idea of where you need to be. You have done well so far with what you have.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
08-23-2012, 05:19 PM
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
08-22-2012, 04:57 PM
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My spot metering reference was from "i'm the guy" suggestion and usage. Jack you would normally lower the ev in that situation if you were shooting in Average metering, but you were set to Spot which should be accurate for the bird ( but then you dropped ev lower) Centre weighted tends to find a better balance, unless the subject is part in the shade.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
08-22-2012, 04:44 PM
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Yes, agree with the centre weighted @ ev0 being more consistant for longer lenses.
Jack you might have to get up earlier :)
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Forum: Photographic Technique
08-22-2012, 04:30 PM
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Well i would have thought that it is much easier now to learn how to take good quality photos, with the instant feedback and all the in camera gizmos. In general manual film guys should come to digital with a better understanding and skill set (most irrelevent now) but they have to adapt and learn new skills for digital.
I know i'm better for learning with film, but it doesn't make me better.
Patience will always be MY greatest asset!
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
08-22-2012, 03:24 PM
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Hi Jack
I just had a quick look and see that you have the EV -1 on spot metering, I believe the suggestion was to go the other way to +1/3 - +2/3. They looked sharp enough but they are at f8. I would expect the DA to equal if not better than the FA, so definately check the micro AF adjust - in the correct fashion. It is amazing what a difference critical sharpness makes especially with long lenses.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
08-20-2012, 04:27 PM
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I agree with Urkeldaedalus, i recently tested the same Sigma for a friend before and after it went for adjustment. The image out of the Sigma looked good to my eye and I was a little surprised to see the extra sharpness from my DA*. Never used the Tamron but the findings sound right.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
08-20-2012, 04:05 PM
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Nice shots Simbon4o. Going by your test shots i can see why you would favour the Samyang. However my experience with the M85/2 wide open would show a blue cast/fringe equal to f4.0 on your chart and decrease more using a deep hood & with a resulting greater sharpness. The sensor plays a large role with this colour cast, my K20 will always produce a strong magenta and blue cast whilst there will be almost none on the K-r sensor, all else being equal.
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