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Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories 1 Day Ago  
Any affordable (low cost) AC adapter for the Pentax D-LI90 battery?
Posted By Bob 256
Replies: 14
Views: 471
Good reason to hold on to your batteries which go bad. Alternately, it's pretty easy to build a dummy battery with a 3D printer with insertion locations for terminals which thread through battery block to eliminator circuit.
Forum: Post Your Photos! 1 Day Ago  
Abstract Bubblegum Bee
Posted By Bob 256
Replies: 5
Views: 145
I'm posting these shots because I'm curious about what kind of fly or bee this critter is? I saw a wild thistle which looked like it might make a good close-up, but in composing, I discovered this what I call a bubblegum bee (about half an inch in length) on the thistle bloom. It was wandering around and getting nectar but then started this strange behavior of blowing a small bubble of nectar and then sucking it back in. He was doing this over and over which might be a way to reduce the amount of moisture in it (my presumption). The small "bubble" actually lenses the background and makes it appear as a small image in the bubble. If anyone out there is an entomologist and knows what this insect is, please drop a line.
Forum: General Photography 3 Days Ago  
How do you store your lenses?
Posted By Bob 256
Replies: 26
Views: 835
I store my lenses in a small polyethylene zip-lock pouch placed in a labeled Pentax lens pouch with a small packet of desiccant in the poly pouch. The poly pouch is dust proof and the desiccant absorbs any moisture the lens may have brought with it. The Pentax pouch makes it easy to identify lenses and provides a degree of abrasion and impact protection. It's also important to check the desiccant periodically (get the color changing indicator variety) and replace if necessary since the poly can leak moisture long-term. The desiccant packs can be recycled quite a few times by heating them in a microwave or conventional oven to restore their absorbing qualities.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 3 Days Ago  
Large debris showing up in all photographs.
Posted By Bob 256
Replies: 42
Views: 1,657
Another thought. What is your light source for the shots you see this in. It would be unusual given the pattern in the photo you provided, but it could also be some kind of pattern generated if the light source is flickering at a high rate of speed and that interacting with the shutter. Like I said, not much of a chance of this, but one possibility that hasn't been mentioned. Easy to diagnose - if you see it with another light source like an incandescent lamp, not this issue.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 4 Days Ago  
Large debris showing up in all photographs.
Posted By Bob 256
Replies: 42
Views: 1,657
Pop off the lens and in bulb mode, open the shutter and look into the lens mount. You should see the sensor free and clear or you should see what's blocking the image. If you see a clear view of the sensor, it's either the lens or the shutter mechanism. Take a photo without the lens on the camera (manual mode - any medium shutter speed which you normally use) with the camera facing a lighted wall or even light source. If the shadow is still there, it's the shutter. (It could also be something hanging from the back of the mirror, but you'll see that when you do the bulb shot).
Forum: Pentax K-1 5 Days Ago  
File Structure
Posted By Bob 256
Replies: 24
Views: 703
I'm a bit confused by your statement that you have 20 folders. My K-1 creates a folder for each day, and that days shots go into that folder. If shooting is done the next day, those files will be in a new folder. I believe this happens even if the camera is not turned off (new folder at midnight). I was unaware that each folder has a limit of 500 files since I have never shot that many in a single day so that was something I learned in this thread.

If you want to group shots from a single day, you would need to pop the card into a computer and create sub folders and drop the files in those, but the K-1 will only provide grouping-by-day folders - mine did that from the git-go after I first got my K-1 without my changing any menu items.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 07-05-2020, 10:54 AM  
Help, my thumb has a mind of its own
Posted By Bob 256
Replies: 29
Views: 970
Buy a K-1. It has a lockout button of sorts, just above and to the right of the 4-way controller. It switches the 4-way to VF focus area selection, which does a lot more damage than those never-never land modes that your thumb has been exploring. Of course, my thumb has been known to hit that button and then hit the 4-way when it (my thumb) gets bored:)
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 07-03-2020, 09:34 AM  
What went wrong?
Posted By Bob 256
Replies: 20
Views: 999
Import your images that have been cross proccesed into Photoshop and use Auto Levels. That will recover a bit more of the photo and restore some contrast, but nothing will get these to look like ones shot on good film.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 07-02-2020, 07:40 AM  
Is the Pentax D FA Macro 100mm WR the best macro option out there for my K1?
Posted By Bob 256
Replies: 22
Views: 1,272
There's the Tamron 90mm floating around out there (which I have) and it is a great macro and produces stunning photos with my K-1. Probably very similar to Pentax options but at lower cost. Note: I prefer a longer focal length macro since it gives you more lens to subject working distance than those near 50mm (at some cost of DOF).
Forum: Pentax K-1 06-26-2020, 02:50 PM  
Pentax K-1 Which lens to zoom up the night sky?
Posted By Bob 256
Replies: 12
Views: 719
Check out some of the astronomy sites (equipment sellers) who offer long focal length lenses as telescopes which can be used with camera. These usually come at a cost but offer faster lenses designed for astro work. There are some reflecting scopes which perform very well but these can be quite high priced, though they are a solution for the person who wants to specialize in astro-photography. In comparison, few camera lenses are available in long, fast versions, and if they can be found, their price would compare to specialized astro-lenses, the latter which may have more to offer in the final comparison.
Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 06-23-2020, 07:31 PM  
Why the Red Windows ?
Posted By Bob 256
Replies: 5
Views: 840
If you wanted to pick out a red light on a sunny day, it would be much easier to see if you looked through a red filter which would block most all other colors of light. In some cases, an IR sensor is covered with what looks like black plastic, which is actually an IR filter to let through IR and block most other wavelengths. Long story short, it makes the sensor work better with less interference from other colors which it may have some sensitivity to. It also has some aesthetic value by hiding the electronics that lurk behind it.

The principle has been used scientifically for years to enhance the efficiency of sensors which are to have sensitivity to specific wavelengths. In technical applications, the filter can be a dichroic (thin film) filter tuned to a very narrow range of wavelengths, thus making the sensor respond only to those. Much like tuning a radio receiver to pick up one one station out of a background of many.
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 06-23-2020, 07:25 PM  
Limited Edition Hot Shoe Cover
Posted By Bob 256
Replies: 287
Views: 14,702
I considered it until I saw the price ($39). Maybe if it had the gold thing. That much $$ would buy a memory card or quite a few batteries (alkaline), so alas not my trinket. But then some of you might be really nostalgic or want to pass your camera on to your grandkids with that extra touch of class.

Listed in the Ricoh store:

Pentax 100 Year Commemorative Hot Shoe Cover - Ricoh
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 06-10-2020, 06:53 PM  
Poll: Amuse yer selves.... format wars..
Posted By Bob 256
Replies: 42
Views: 1,893
Guessed correctly at what. The question was which do you like the best? Were we guessing which was FF??????:confused:
Forum: Repairs and Warranty Service 06-09-2020, 03:17 PM  
Preventive Maintenance on K-1
Posted By Bob 256
Replies: 8
Views: 775
When I was shooting with my PZ-1p film camera, I took that strategy and purchased a second one thinking in terms of spare parts. When my old one had issues, it was easier just to start using the new one and voila, spare part available (in the old one). Alas, it was sooooo good, that it outlasted my expectations and now I have my K-1 (the PZ-1p is still working fine). I never did any "preventative maintenance" on the PZ-1p other than keeping it clean and blowing out the mirror box from time to time (I did need to clean the rear viewfinder lens so I could see through it). Hoping the same will apply to the K-1 (no, I haven't bought my 2nd one yet).:)
Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories 06-05-2020, 10:57 PM  
Need help, I mounted my ND-filter on my UV-filter and canít get if off...
Posted By Bob 256
Replies: 13
Views: 621
If they are off the camera, hold the bottom filter in your left hand and gently give the upper filter a bit of a nudge with three fingers on its rim with your right hand. Don't expect anything to happen. Rotate the combination about a quarter of a turn in your left hand and repeat. Then again about another quarter of a turn working your way around a full rotation in the same direction a couple of times. Not guaranteed, but it may loosen at some point.

If that fails, a method which usually works is to obtain two filter wrenches (these can be easily made on a 3D printer - see illustration). When you squeeze the ends of the extended portion, they tighten on the filter and allow it to be torqued. The trick is that they apply pressure evenly around the rim of the filter instead of at one location (applying pressure at one location will cause the ring to go out of round and make it bind). You need two, of course, using one on the bottom filter and the other on the top filter. Again, be gentle and if the first try doesn't loosen the filters, move the top wrench position around the center point slightly and try again. Don't apply much force each time and you might have to rotate the position of the wrench around the rims a couple of times until something gives.

Good luck.
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 06-05-2020, 08:43 AM  
Megapixels vs Maximum Printing Size
Posted By Bob 256
Replies: 32
Views: 1,844
Something to note, it's not the number of megapixels in your camera that count. It's the number that are in the print. If you crop your original shot, you've reduced the total megapixels. Most editing tools will show the horizontal and vertical pixel counts for a given file and you can go from that (divide by the size of the print you're after and you get pixels/inch or pixels/cm). Then you can judge if that is sufficient from experience or from what has been said previously in this thread. Also note that a lot has to do with the lens you use and in some cases a 100 megapixel file can look bad if the lens is bad. On the other hand, a really good lens will exceed the capability of your sensor and then it comes down to the number of pixels in the print, print size, distance its viewed from, the actual content of the print, and how picky the viewer is.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 06-04-2020, 09:20 AM  
Compensate expired B&W film
Posted By Bob 256
Replies: 7
Views: 520
Shoot a gray scale, develop normally, and judge from the negative for development changes needed if any. Old film can pick up some fog but that's unusual for 100 speed so I would guess if it has been stored well, it will work fine.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 05-22-2020, 03:08 PM  
Drum scanning services?
Posted By Bob 256
Replies: 14
Views: 885
With non-drum scanners, most all use a lens of some type or another and that lens is subject to all the evils of a typical lens. It can have aberrations, color issues, and since most try to capture a relatively wide angle, distortion. A drum scanner focuses on a very small section of the film at any given time (much like a micro-densitometer) and the lens used for that can be optimized a lot better than other lens types. It is basically a microscope lens. Since it is only looking at one point, color fringing is impossible and since the film is maintained at exactly the optimum distance from the lens, focus is spot-on for all points in the scanned film. Also, since the mechanics of a drum scanner are so precise, there is extremely little or no distortion in the scanned image relative to the original.

The downsides of drum scanning is the required preparation and execution, and usually considerably more time is involved to scan just that one photo.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 05-19-2020, 07:10 PM  
AstroTracing & High Voltage Transmission Lines
Posted By Bob 256
Replies: 11
Views: 676
Actually, you might have more to worry about from the steel towers than from the power lines. The current is alternating current which averages out its effect on compass readings (DC might be another matter). Also high voltage doesn't mean high magnetic field, which depends on the current rather than the voltage. Although these lines might be carrying fairly high currents, the lines are fairly high (distant, you said 70 feet?) and magnetic fields weaken quickly with distance, and again, these are alternating current fields which tend to average to zero.

The best test might be to find some equivalent lines nearby and experiment with the camera right underneath them and see if it affects tracking - doubt it will have much effect, but stay away from the metal towers which could harbor some constant polarity magnetic field (think bar magnet) and cause problems.

Good shooting.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 05-18-2020, 09:40 AM  
Posted By Bob 256
Replies: 18
Views: 997
Let's say you have a basic 55mm lens. The 55mm applies for an object at infinity and is the distance between the lens and the film or sensor which gives a sharp focus. The aperture is what determines how much light is passed and what f-stop applies.

Now, if you move closer to an object, the effective focal length starts to increase. To compensate, you move the lens away from the film or sensor (focusing the lens). Let's say however that the lens doesn't have the ability to focus. You can put an extension between the lens and the film or sensor plane to compensate for the increased focal length. That's what an extension tube does and it is used primarily when a given lens runs out of its near focusing adjustability so you can focus on objects really close up.

In some cases, you just want a larger image (a longer focal length). In this case, a teleconverter is used. It has optics which increase the effective focal length of the lens it's attached to. It also keeps the new larger image in focus on the film or sensor.

In either case, a longer focal length without any changes in the original lens aperture means a higher f-stop and less light. If you double the focal length, the f-stop doubles and you get one-fourth as much light. With extension tubes, you can determine how much the focal length increases by the length of the tube. With teleconverters, the X1.4 or X2 is the multiplier for the focal length and the f-stop of the result. If you're shooting using a 55mm lens at f4, it becomes a 110mm f8 lens with a x2 teleconverter.

A good teleconverter will give image quality which essentially depends on the quality of the original lens but degraded slightly depending on how much magnification you choose. A poor teleconverter is just that and will degrade the image quality quite a bit more, particularly in the image corners. Good teleconverters don't perform well with poor lenses because any lens issues are also magnified by the teleconverter, and then some lens/teleconverter combinations just aren't the best and poor images result.

When using a teleconverter, just be prepared for dark images through the viewfinder and sluggish or disabled autofocusing because of the stretched focal length and higher f number. The metering system of the camera will usually take care of exposure issues due to the new f-stop range, but be aware that in some cases, manual compensation might be needed (and then some teleconverters don't couple the camera to the original lens so it's all manual in that case).

That's an Extension tube/Teleconverter 101 explanation.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 05-16-2020, 01:39 PM  
Cleaning Lenses
Posted By Bob 256
Replies: 5
Views: 542
I've been shooting with one lens (first on film and now on a K-1) for over 20 years and though there is some internal dust, I have no issues with the lens because of that. Following my own rules from above (and using a UV filter to protect the front element), externally, the lens surfaces are in mint condition. I use pressurized air from time to time and clean those surfaces maybe every 5 years - works for me. Never had to disassemble a lens except for mechanical issues.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 05-16-2020, 06:35 AM  
Cleaning Lenses
Posted By Bob 256
Replies: 5
Views: 542
aslyfox is on to something. Unless you have a major internal dust issue, it might not be worth it to have them disassembled and cleaned (which can be fairly expensive and risks other issues). Surface dust (front and rear outside elements) is another matter, and those can be cleaned yourself, but you have to be very careful or risk damage which cannot be fixed.

For outside dust removal, the same theory applies - if it isn't bad, don't worry about it. When it becomes significant or you manage to get a "thumb-print" on the lens, then cleaning can be done by first blowing as much dust away as possible (to get rid of grit which can scratch the lens and coatings) and then clean with a recommended lens cleaner (NOT one with silicones or one which will leave residuals) and lens tissue or a clean microfiber cloth. Procedures for those can be found in this forum elsewhere, but the key is carefully and infrequently. Blowing with clean air to remove dust can be done on a regular basis when that dust becomes noticeable and for really sticky dust, a soft brush can help (but don't use a brush often).

If you have a real bad internal dust problem, first refer to repair shops for the lens manufacture if available. Try Googling "lens repair" if you can't find a repair shop and make sure they are reliable through recommendations or referrals. Taking a lens apart yourself can be a daunting challenge best left to lens experts.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 05-15-2020, 10:05 AM  
Help ! film develop fog issue
Posted By Bob 256
Replies: 16
Views: 868
As mentioned, it could be any number of things. Second to agitation, it might be inadequate bleaching, leaving partially sensitized silver behind which then develops in last developer. That, too could be due to agitation or bleach formulation. Bottom line: Go negative processing and scan to positive.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 05-14-2020, 02:32 PM  
Super-Multi-Coating - Faults
Posted By Bob 256
Replies: 13
Views: 751
"Cleaning marks" will affect the lens performance depending on:
1) What defines "cleaning marks"
2) How many there are
3) Where they are located (center, edges, etc.)
4) What aperture you use such that the cleaning marks are in the used aperture (#3)

Bottom line: Get a trial with the lens to see what it looks like and be sure you can return it for your money spent.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 05-13-2020, 02:56 PM  
K-1: how do I turn the self-timer off?
Posted By Bob 256
Replies: 20
Views: 749
Worse than your problem is if you have it on and don't know it. Click ---------- nothing happening---------Kalink, the shutter fires....... what going on ?????? Click-------repeat........%#@&&????? And so it goes if you accidentally tap the right sequence with your nose:)
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