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Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 1 Day Ago  
What's going on here? Uneven development on first five or so frames
Posted By pres589
Replies: 27
Views: 653
UPDATE: FIXED

It was the fill/agitation tubes being left out. I just developed a roll of film out in the open air like I would but with the fill tube in place. No problems. Film looks excellent.


Thanks to everyone, especially JohnMc, for helping me figure this out.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 1 Day Ago  
Turning K-3/3 into street camera :)
Posted By pres589
Replies: 22
Views: 793
F or FA 28mm f2.8 would be my preference for a street lens on a crop body. 21 is too wide, 40 is weird to me on a crop body, too tight.

I love a good 28mm on APS-C.
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 2 Days Ago  
Updated Roadmap: New 100mm Macro Coming
Posted By pres589
Replies: 285
Views: 15,556
There's been all manner of odd comments in this thread. Probably best avoided, honestly.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 2 Days Ago  
Sigma 75-300mm lens on Pentax K10D
Posted By pres589
Replies: 22
Views: 449
Tamron 17-50, SIgma 17-50, or Sigma 17-70 all seem quite useful for the OP's purposes. A fast 50 like the DA 50 1.8 or F 50 f1.7 would be nice as well. But I'd start with a quality zoom.

The 18-55 isn't a bad lens but earlier versions weren't exactly great performers. That said, taking a walk with one and really figuring out how to get the best results with it would be useful to someone new or experienced.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 2 Days Ago  
Continue with Pentax or sell the whole batch?
Posted By pres589
Replies: 49
Views: 1,926
It might be helpful to know what lenses you have as that might let us know if adapting to a different mirrorless system would make any sense.

Right now, the way I'm reading this is, the weight and size of a K200D is too great for your liking. As previously mentioned, they don't really get any lighter than that, save for the K-01 which honestly is a pretty niche camera and not one I think you'd really want.

You might be happier with something like a Fuji X-T30 or Nikon Z fc. But you'll be going through batteries pretty fast vs. about any Pentax DSLR.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 3 Days Ago  
What's going on here? Uneven development on first five or so frames
Posted By pres589
Replies: 27
Views: 653
Yes. The best part of the roll is towards the walls of the tank. Which I think corresponds pretty well with your suggestion that I need the fill tubes installed or I'm going to have issues like this.


I found the fill tubes, by the way, so I'll try a test roll with one of them installed tomorrow.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 3 Days Ago  
What's going on here? Uneven development on first five or so frames
Posted By pres589
Replies: 27
Views: 653
My tanks are the one and two 35mm versions of this;

amazon.com : Universal Compact Developing Tank 2 Spiral Reel for Processing 120 135 126 127 B/W Film Camera Film Processing Equipment : Electronics?tag=pentaxforums-20&

They both seem to be doing this. I'll go looking for the fill/agitation tube. I may still have them. I know I'm not currently using them. I thought they were optional as I'm not using them for agitation! I'll probably be getting actual Patterson tanks if I can't sort this out.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 3 Days Ago  
What's going on here? Uneven development on first five or so frames
Posted By pres589
Replies: 27
Views: 653
Quick update. I shot a roll just now with my Chinon CE-4 and it came out basically the same. I didn't have to examine it, it's like the others, no change there. Okay. That was developed by me getting the film into a dev tank in my darkroom and then all of the real development work, chemicals & rinsing, done in a normal room with normal lighting.


Took a second roll shot with my XR7 and did the development work in the darkroom. Film rewound, transfered to the development tank, developer step and stop bath step of development all done in the dark. Not a lot of fun but doable. I used a timer on my phone, with my phone hidden in the medicine cabinet, to tell me when to dump the developer and do a stop rinse. Here's how that came out;



This is the start of the roll. I took 12 shots of the car to tell me that this was where the roll starts, making sure there's no question about that.



This is the end of the roll. 12 shots of flowers in front of my house.

The film is still wet so there's some visible shiny spots to be ignored. I was not expecting this to have been the outcome and wasn't all that optimistic about this. But here we are. Somehow it seems like I'm getting light into the development tank on all of the rolls I've been processing since I moved. I really don't understand that. I'm screwing the lid on tight (without going crazy on the thing) and the cap is nearly water tight (these tanks aren't exactly perfect about that). I really want to get this figured out because doing this work in the dark isn't a lot of fun. Do I buy a new tank and see how that goes?
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 3 Days Ago  
What's going on here? Uneven development on first five or so frames
Posted By pres589
Replies: 27
Views: 653
The only thing I think I'm seeing is that the first of the roll, more than what I believe is the leader and first two frames - what would have been out of the canister when first loaded but no exposures made - received light that it shouldn't have and more than the end of the roll did at some point that would most likely have be after being in the camera ie the not quite dark-enough-room.

- I completely agree; I can make out frames in that area but they're faint and the film is quite exposed there making it difficult to make them out. And it's across the film face, from the very edge to the other edge, across the sprockets etc etc. That's another reason why I don't think it's the shutter hanging open too long. The end of the roll, the last 8 or so frames, look basically perfect. So unless my camera is acting badly for the first 1/2 of a roll before slowly correcting itself across many rolls and months of use, this doesn't seem like a camera issue really. I still want to verify that with use of a different camera to see how this comes out.

It takes folks at minimum 20 minutes to get their night vision running well. Have you tested your darkroom by sitting in there for a good 1/2 hour or so?

- I haven't sat there that long, no. But like this last time, I spent about five minutes, I believe, just hanging around in there waiting for my eyes to adjust and any light leaks in the room to become apparent. I didn't see any during the duration of my time in there (usually takes me a few minutes to get a roll of film out of the cassette and onto a reel and into a tank with the lid screwed on). I can try to spend that sort of time in there before doing anything with the film. I've also read about placing a white card on something dark, like a dark cloth, and spending some time waiting to see if it becomes apparent or not. If I cannot see it after a good amount of time in there, then it's probably safe for film.

I'm thinking about shooting two rolls of film. One through another camera and develop the same way that I have been. That should test the camera by providing a back to back test of just that variable. The other would be to shoot a roll through the XR7 but develop it in the dark; I would get the film into the tank in the dark, then run the developer section of the process as well as the stop bath in the dark, to test the tank and my general methods. Hopefully I can find time to do this soon, maybe even this evening after work.

Not sure if I'm seeing anything else to really test based on the exchange so far. I'll need to start taking good notes on each negative as to which is which.

Thanks.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 3 Days Ago  
What's going on here? Uneven development on first five or so frames
Posted By pres589
Replies: 27
Views: 653
Was the section of film in the top photo exposed - left out of the film canister but not on the take up spool - for noticeably longer than the section of film in the bottom photo? A light leak hittin film on the take up spool typ will make a pattern of sorts. A massive leak would have not spared the end of the roll unless conditions/environment changed significantly.

- No. I took the roll of film out of the canister and put it in the camera within a minute. I tried to not advance any more film than necessary to get the film positively wound around the take-up spool before closing the door on the back of the camera. I would guess about six inches of film was exposed to daylight through this process.

Changing cameras could rule in/out a problem with the first body, as could some photo tape and/or foil wrapping the body and applied immediately after loading the film, which you have done in as low a light as possible.

- I'll grab one of my other cameras and do this ASAP. If I get the same results (and I'm thinking I will) then that would mean it's definitely in the handling/processing on my part.

Is the last full frame seen in the top photo the same as the top full frame seen in the second photo? It's hard, for me at least from here, to discern whether the series of little white dots seen in photo 1 & 2 are reflections or not.

- The little white dots are most likely residual water drops. I took those after the film had hung for maybe half an hour and wasn't completely dry. If it helps I'll try to scan the negative on a copier here at work tomorrow and put together another series of photos like the three I shared last night.

If it were the camera, can you explain the difference in the two ends of the roll by the conditions/environment/duration you and the camera were in?

- Not sure what you're asking exactly. Film loaded in my house with overhead lighting on. All shots taken outside a couple of hours before sunset, so decently bright sunlight but not brightest outdoor conditions. Metered to EI 400, most shots were at 1/1000 per the auto-exposure system on the camera and f8 to f11 on the lens. What I'd consider pretty bright out. I loaded the film Tuesday evening and left the camera on the counter. Next day around 6 PM I shot the whole roll in about 15 minutes outdoors. Brought it back inside and rewound the roll and took it out with no film out of the cassette. All shots taken in very similar outdoor light over a short period of time.

Still, being able to see the whole roll presented, say as a contact sheet, sans reflections and with consistent exposure across the frames/roll would enable better evaluation. The most important parts here are the sprocket and between frame areas over the length of the roll for being able to determine any density changes.

- Understood. I'll try to get a scan of the whole roll tomorrow. Thinking about it, I could cut it into 6 frame lengths and put the whole thing into a sleeve for negatives and scan that all at once.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 4 Days Ago  
What's going on here? Uneven development on first five or so frames
Posted By pres589
Replies: 27
Views: 653
The 24 shot roll I shot today was kept in its individual box in the freezer. It was taken out of the canister only after sitting on the counter for about five minutes to let the canister warm up a little to make it easier to get the cap off. Film loaded, the camera sat in my kitchen for almost 24 hours. Shot the roll over the course of about 15 minutes, start to finish. Took the roll out of the camera in my "darkroom" bathroom. That bathroom has one small window which I covered with a pair of black-out curtains along with another curtain over the door. The room on the other side of the bathroom door was nearly blacked out as well. With the window and door covered I stood in the bathroom for a number of minutes (no clocks or sources of light) looking for any discernible source of light. Sometimes I'll end up seeing a light spot in the room after my eyes have adjusted; I didn't see anything like that this evening.


I used a single roll sized AP development tank. The film was out of the cassette and into the tank with the lid screwed on ASAP. I then developed it in the other bathroom where I keep my chemicals. I use a the other bathroom because it has a larger window and would be harder to make completely dark. 30ml Clayton F76, 270ml distilled water, developer in the tank for 8 minutes. 30 inversions to start and then three inversions every minute after initial developer dump into the tank. Nothing vigorous with the developer. Water stop after dumping the developer, I filled the tank, shook it a bit, dumped and refilled with fresh water and gave it 30 inversions before dumping again and then pouring in fixer. Clayton Rapid Fixer, which I've always used, and I always dump a little out of the tank after 30 inversions then letting it stand for about 4 more minutes. So I'm reusing most of the fixer from the tank but ditching a little each time so eventually I add more fresh fixer. After that it was a series of fresh water / 30 inversion / dump / repeat cycles.


I'm thinking I should load up one of my other cameras and doing the same as the above to see if it comes out the same or not. I'm reluctant to believe it's my handling because of how every roll is coming out the same. At the same time... I'm really at a loss here, so anything seems like it should be considered.

I can take the roll above to work and lay it across a photo copier and capture that to .pdf and work that into similar images as the above. The other option just laying it out on my light box and taking a series of pictures, which is how I got the picture in my first post in this thread. Which seems best?

I can talk to a couple of places here in the city (Wichita) but I don't hold high hopes that they'd provide useful feedback.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 4 Days Ago  
What's going on here? Uneven development on first five or so frames
Posted By pres589
Replies: 27
Views: 653
Alright, I'm still fighting this, and I'm needing to come back for ideas. I put all new seals across the back of the camera last night. I used this as guidance ( USCamera Light Seal Placement Guide | Ricoh XR7USCamera ) and cut and placed a seal just like what they're describing. The only place I deviated is that I used 3mm thick foam at the seal on the right hand side next to the take up spool where the door hinge is. This is what I used in that same spot before and didn't have problems so I figured I would do it again there.


I loaded a brand new roll of Arista Edu 400 (it expires years from now, I got 10 rolls last week and they went straight into the freezer when they got to my house) into the camera last night. When loading I put the film leader into the take up spool, shot one frame, advanced to a second frame and closed the door. The door feels good on the open & close, I don't think there's any hangups on the seals, and I don't see any of the shiny backing showing (so the seals aren't twisted or anything like that, that I can tell anyway). I waited until today after work so I could take the camera outside and shoot in sunlight. I developed the roll this evening and hung it up for a bit before taking the following pictures. This is not what I was hoping to see.




Sorry for the reflection but it's not really hiding anything. This is the start of the roll. There's a jet black section at the start of the roll that seems like it would be a few frame's worth of film. Then, looking at the film with a bright light behind it, there's a very dark grey section that runs for about 5 and a half frames. This has been extremely consistent across a number of rolls that I have developed lately which were shot over the last year or so. I'd call this 8 or 9 frames taken out by whatever is going on here.




This is the next section of frames which have discernible exposures. I see fogging along one edge through most of these frames.




This is the end of the roll. Things seem fine here all the way around these frames.



What's my next step? I have a couple other 35mm cameras I could run a roll through if there's a question about my technique in handling and developing film. The camera I've been using seems like it's shifting shutter speeds properly though I don't have a great way to really check it myself. Batteries are not very old in it (electronic shutter in this camera). The extreme repeatability of these issues across rolls makes me think this isn't a light seal issue (besides perhaps the fogging along the one set of sprocket perforations). The things shown in that first image look exactly like the previous rolls I've developed.


Thanks again.
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 4 Days Ago  
Updated Roadmap: New 100mm Macro Coming
Posted By pres589
Replies: 285
Views: 15,556
Are folks trying to figure out how the design of this upcoming lens is different from the current D-FA 100mm WR Macro by comparison of the current lens to what Tokina is advertising for their flavor of the same current lens? What bearing does that have on this?

I think we'll just have to wait and see.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 08-05-2022, 10:21 PM  
The strange case of the 35mm , nee 50mm
Posted By pres589
Replies: 35
Views: 1,038
The Konica 40 f1.8 was a kit lens; I doubt AOC was going for that area of the market when they created the FA 43. A serious comparison of the two with example images and checks for aberrations and distortion would be interesting. I've never been really tempted by the FA 43 and I really like a 40mm on full frame.
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras 08-05-2022, 07:29 PM  
What is your eBay success rate on vintage cameras?
Posted By pres589
Replies: 45
Views: 1,160
I've purchased four K-mount SLR's, one Ricoh and three Chinons, and they all worked. All were listed as untested and "as is". The one Chinon CE-5 came with a cracked top plate which is extremely common with these and broke later after I put it into service. The others are all going strong. I kind of want more Ricohs as they seem a bit easier to service if they need more than a CLA. In any case, four purchased SLR's and all four worked fine with minor effort.
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 08-05-2022, 10:52 AM  
Updated Roadmap: New 100mm Macro Coming
Posted By pres589
Replies: 285
Views: 15,556
I agree with all of this. I could also see RI taking out the DA 50 f1.8 once current stock runs out after this sort of lens becomes available were they to do this. If they skip the DC motor that's fine by me; leave the aperture ring and I'm definitely buying one just like they did on the HD FA 35.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 08-05-2022, 09:41 AM  
The strange case of the 35mm , nee 50mm
Posted By pres589
Replies: 35
Views: 1,038
So you're using primes for a system which all but requires larger, heavier glass instead of a fewer number of zooms. But when considering the smaller system, you say primes are "unsatisfactory" and go to a consumer-grade zoom? Doesn't compute.

Back to the subject at hand, or at least what I thought it was, often when I'm out with a full frame camera and a 50 I end up wishing it was a 40. I don't know why more systems and more companies didn't work harder on the 40mm focal length. It's too bad that AOC didn't work harder to producing a competitor to Konica's 40mm f1.8 unless the FA 43 was supposed to be that lens. Which I doubt in the extreme.
Forum: General Photography 08-05-2022, 09:35 AM  
"Macro" mode for negative scanning (Pentax-F 35-70 or Pentax-A 70-210)
Posted By pres589
Replies: 23
Views: 894
I do this same basic thing with a 105mm macro on an APS-C camera and I don't achieve 1:1 magnification due to working distance and the amount of negative I want filling the frame (I would rather leave some dead space around for cropping any rotation of the negative out as needed). Any 1:2 or greater macro from 50mm on up would be suitable for this in my estimation. The one question I have is if it's really desirable to have a fixed length tube setting the distance from the lens to the negative. I don't think I would want to create the tube before I've had a chance to evaluate distances using a negative and the lens+camera that will be used. I agree with Zombie that achieving full 1:1 resolution is not worth worrying about.

If I needed to buy a new lens for my setup I would probably go with a 50mm macro just to get the working distance down but really I'm just fine with my 105. The only reason I'd use a zoom is for a one-off copy of a print or printed document. For higher quality and repeateability I would stick with primes.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 08-05-2022, 07:11 AM  
Any Pentax-mount AF lenses similar to Zeiss planar design?
Posted By pres589
Replies: 9
Views: 521
As an alternative, the Pentax HD FA 35 f2 might be of interest. The FA 43 sometimes creates a busy look to certain out of focus backgrounds that some may not like. It is also fairly different as far as field of view is concerned vs. a 31 or 32mm optic, especially on a crop body.

I also like the Sigma 28mm EX DG f1.8 which is long out of production and not small & light like the other lenses being discussed. This lens, the FA 31, and HD FA 35 would be the three I would recommend taking a look at.
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 08-04-2022, 02:52 PM  
Updated Roadmap: New 100mm Macro Coming
Posted By pres589
Replies: 285
Views: 15,556
Better to move a lens to a Sony user and maybe they'll even think about a Pentax body to use the glass natively at some point than to not sell glass at all. Plus, these are currently in-production lenses, so one more unit isn't exactly soaking up a limited quantity of glass. Better than someone hacking the stop-down lever off of a K 28 f2 or some other older and relatively rare Pentax lens.
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 08-04-2022, 02:42 PM  
Updated Roadmap: New 100mm Macro Coming
Posted By pres589
Replies: 285
Views: 15,556
The FA 35 f2 became the HD FA 35 f2 with a more modern look, improved focus ring, and new lens hood along with updated coatings. The FA 50 f1.4 hasn't received the same treatment yet. I'm wondering if Ricoh is sitting on a pile of NOS FA 50's?


The smileys are extremely small to the point that I can't really tell if that second one shows a smile or not. Seems like reh321 also doesn't think it's in jest? In any case, nice for Ricoh to sell a lens to a Sony shooter than sell them nothing.
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 08-04-2022, 02:16 PM  
Updated Roadmap: New 100mm Macro Coming
Posted By pres589
Replies: 285
Views: 15,556
Is this a serious position or a joke reply?
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 08-03-2022, 01:09 PM  
Updated Roadmap: New 100mm Macro Coming
Posted By pres589
Replies: 285
Views: 15,556
They updated styling on the HD FA 35 f2 from the FA 35 f2. There's some odd responses to my last comment, like "they'll remove fringing via firmware". I can't take that seriously at all.

The company says this lens will have a different optical design. Responses like the design being "heavily based on the old design", like how, that they both use glass elements? Let's not jump to any conclusions until we see the production unit but it isn't like they just slip an extra element by itself to the front of the stack and have an automatically much better lens.

It may retain screw drive, I don't know, I don't care. Seeing as how their PLM implementation is focus by wire on the 55-300 (from memory) I think screw drive is probably the right compromise.

I wish there were more glass announcements like this so people had different things to whine about at once.
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 08-03-2022, 09:18 AM  
Updated Roadmap: New 100mm Macro Coming
Posted By pres589
Replies: 285
Views: 15,556
I'm surprised at how similar this new 100 macro is styled to the existing version. Ricoh/Pentax must think they really stuck the landing on the styling of the existing lens.
Forum: Lens Sample Photo Archive 08-03-2022, 09:00 AM  
Olympus G.Zuiko Auto-S 40mm f1.4 (Pen-F mount)
Posted By pres589
Replies: 20
Views: 269
I just learned that this lens exists a week or so ago. I was really hopeful that it would cover a full frame image circle but that clearly doesn't seem like it would be possible. What do you think of this lens wide open with regard to contrast and sharpness?
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