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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
03-23-2023, 08:36 PM
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Shouldn't need that on 'A' setting -- that setting is set to "no" by default to keep you from using lenses off the 'A' setting.
As far as ideas, try to wiggle the ring while still in A (obviously it should be locked on A, but just give it some play) and see if the F display comes to life ever, even just for a second. (If not try holding down the button and going in and out of A and see if anything happens.) If it is really completely dead, I'd just send it back. If it will display sometimes, probably some hope a minor repair/adjustment could get it working reliably.
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Forum: General Photography
03-17-2023, 02:22 PM
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Some lenses just meter differently as well. Why not just dial-in some EV compensation? That's what it's for. 1 1/2 stops seems like a lot, but it isn't unusual that I have to set some lenses to -.7 EV. And if you're center metering and the center is darker than the bright spots of course they are going to get blown out and you need to adjust for that. (Not really lens-specific though unless it is just a certain type of shot you are only taking with that lens.) You'll also get wonky exposure if you are locking-in exposure settings and then zooming in/out before hitting the shutter.
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
03-13-2023, 09:57 AM
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If you do a before and after with the same lens under the same conditions you'll see the difference (how much depends on how yellow it was, but yeah it isn't going to be radical, but it is noticeable). If you like them yellow, sure leave them yellow. But in this day and age where we can adjust colors to our hearts content after the fact (as well as softening, etc), I'd rather have the ability to have the greater sharpness and contrast (as designed), especially when shooting at large apertures where it is going to be a bit softer anyway.
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
03-12-2023, 09:32 PM
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The only real effect of using a yellowed lens on digital is that it is less sharp than if you de-yellowed it. (Yes, that makes it a bit sharper -- gets the wavelengths matched up again.) Not sure why you'd want it to remain yellow.
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Forum: Pentax Compact Cameras
03-11-2023, 05:13 PM
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The Optio WG-1 (waterproof handheld) had decent specs (14mp) but didn't shoot RAW. (There is also a Ricoh WG-50 that I never heard of until just now.)
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
03-10-2023, 03:03 PM
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
03-07-2023, 11:13 AM
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Sears Korea macro? Yeah, that's a Ricoh button -- it's the gold thing on the mount in your last picture (the one on the left -- the other gold button is ok and is needed). It is a fairly easy operation on that lens as the mount comes out in one piece but still you have to be careful obviously. It probably is ok the way it is because it is rounded, but I'd take it out anyway.
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Forum: Accessory and Memory Articles
02-28-2023, 07:50 PM
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It is easy to see -- if you attach them to the body with no lens there is a lot of play in the genuine ones. (I've had several, old and new.) Without the spring lock they'd probably fall out fairly easily. They are known for that, and they are designed that way on purpose -- they snug up when you screw a lens on. Whereas the third-party ones (universally it seems even though many different makers over the years) are always quite tight even with no lens mounted.
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Forum: Accessory and Memory Articles
02-28-2023, 11:37 AM
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With the genuine ones, you really need to leave in the spring/lock because they are much more loose in the mount than the knockoffs. And if you leave the spring in, you've got to unscrew the lens from the adapter to get it off the body. Anyway, with my genuine ones, I use them as they were designed -- as *body* adapters not lens adapters -- they just work better that way.
However, the knockoffs are always way tighter and if you leave in the spring THEY WILL GET STUCK at some point. So with those I take the spring out immediately and I just screw them on the lenses that I want to use. (But without the spring the lens is never totally locked on the body.)
Although I do "leave them on the lens", I do not lock them on the lens permanently or even semi-permanently as I have way more lenses than adapters, and there is just no need -- they don't fall off or anything. So I just mean I leave them on the lenses generally (i.e. the lenses I've got that day) and then I can mount and unmount them quickly like K-mount lenses.
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Forum: Accessory and Memory Articles
02-27-2023, 09:36 AM
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Buy the cheap knockoffs of the genuine one (with no flange so you get infinity focus), remove the little spring before you ever use it (or else you are in danger of being driven insane when it gets stuck on camera), and then you just leave it on the lens. (The genuine one is not good for leaving on the lens btw). The only drawback is you've got a friction fit to the body now which is usually fine but if your old lens is stiff, sometimes it will turn out of the mount when you are focusing which could lead to disaster. (Usually you're using m42 lenses in a pretty deliberate way, but you do need to be careful with that.) I've got a whole cabinet of m42 lenses I use in this style.
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
02-23-2023, 02:52 PM
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AppImage is interesting...never heard of that. Seems like the way to go.
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
02-23-2023, 07:47 AM
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Quirk of the build likely since you've grabbed a generic one. I'd see if you can find the system package maintainer and see when it will be updated. Or build it yourself if you are up to it. (I see RT 5.9 is now available on several other Linux distros, so you could always just switch -- try a persistent live usb of another distro maybe and install RT 5.9 on it and see if it works)
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Forum: Lens Clubs
02-23-2023, 07:40 AM
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It's a very sharp lens. It is a bit purple-fringey (like most of the Adaptalls), but it doesn't lack sharpness for sure. Make sure you are comparing apples-to-apples though. Nailing focus at f4 (and making images at f4) is tougher than f/5.6 as the DoF is very narrow. The first thing to do with any lens if you think it isn't as sharp as it ought to be is to put it on a tripod, lock it down, turn off shake reduction feature, and precisely focus using live view (and use the magnification feature as live view will auto partially stop-down in bright light but that will prevent it) and then examine the results. If they are sharp, then any problems you have are not with the lens. I'm trying to remember if that lens has any pronounced focus shift -- I don't remember that happening but it is possible, i.e. some older fast lenses the focus point shifts a bit when you stop down because of under-corrected glass (probably not the case with this one).
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
02-13-2023, 12:15 PM
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Contacts would be necessary but sufficient -- older Pentax 'A' series lenses would not count. There needs to be a chip in there for id I think. I'm not sure what lenses would qualify -- possibly the offerings from Irix, maybe Samyang?
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
02-12-2023, 10:32 AM
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Yes, exactly. How the sensor data is used, not the operation of the sensor. What After Pentax Mark II said was precisely correct and accurate, and is the same thing you (and I) are saying.
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
02-11-2023, 07:34 PM
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It doesn't affect operation of *THE SENSOR*, i.e. nothing mechanical or electrical is changing. (With manual lenses, what could change?) It is simply a software parameter adjustment. It affects what the computer does with the sensor data. Of course the focus point moves, that's the whole reason for adjusting -- nobody is saying different.
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
02-11-2023, 09:30 AM
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Unless there is actually some mechanical problem, I think that is all the service people are going to do. Except you'll have to pay a hefty fee and be without your camera for a while. Again, it is totally reversible -- you're just adjusting a setting. If you aren't comfortable doing that or not satisfied with the result, then send it in. (Although many times people seem to get their cameras back and nothing has seemingly changed. Just a lot of frustration that maybe can be avoided.)
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
02-10-2023, 07:46 PM
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Yes, see these threads:
Files collection to enter Debug Mode - PentaxForums.com
Pentax K-30 Mod-Set - PentaxForums.com (don't know if this one is different than the one posted in above thread)
I've done it with the KP -- basically you can adjust the center point of the AF adjustment globally (the scale isn't the same as it is on the menu though, so you have to experiment a bit, and just keep track of what you've done if you want to reverse it). So what used to be -10 could be -5 or 0 giving you extra room to dial-in adjustments from the normal menu (or if a single global adjustment would work, you can just get that set in as the default). That's just one function of the debug mode -- it's basically the service menu. Don't touch anything else, risk is yours, etc etc. Check out those threads to get the file you need for your model and do some googling and maybe some other threads here -- a few people have described the process. (There might be a video somewhere on youtube as well.)
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
02-10-2023, 11:33 AM
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You can load the debug mode ROM onto an SD card that will allow you to globally change the AF adjustment. You do have to be careful what you're doing with that, but servicing takes time and money and it isn't too hard to do yourself in a few minutes if you're up to it.
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
02-07-2023, 09:57 AM
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Swapping out the focus screen for a plain S-type (Focusing Screen) and getting the shims just right is a huge help with fast manual lenses, and will improve manual metering as well. (It will make the viewer somewhat darker on slower lenses though.)
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Forum: Pentax Q
01-26-2023, 09:49 AM
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There really is no substitute, but I've seen some surprisingly good results (from posts here) using C & D adapted lenses (CCTV lenses, etc). Nothing else will be that wide on the Q.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
01-04-2023, 11:45 AM
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First just see if you can remove the screws and take the mount off and just pull it out -- lots of times it is an easily reversible thing.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
01-03-2023, 11:53 AM
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Yeah, aperture lever looks quite bent. Should be straight. (Careful unbending it as if you just grab and bend sometimes it just moves the bend farther down.)
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
12-25-2022, 07:38 PM
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It is definitely hard to handle with the balance (I used a very long plate with an extra brace to the lens barrel in the small space between the the focus ring and the zoom ring) and also because it is not internal focusing -- you're spinning that big barrel and it extends so the balance is changing all the time too. And it is also definitely quite sharp, but tends to a bit of PF as most of the Adaptalls do. It really comes down to how cheap you can get it and how much you like to play with these difficult old lenses. No way I would pay $400 in today's market but in the $100-$200 range? Maybe. I wouldn't expect any big advantage over what you've got already though -- just another toy.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
12-18-2022, 03:57 PM
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They came with those Tamron Adaptall models and will only fit those (see the little up tab on the front). A 3d printed one that could work with any lens with a tripod mount would be nicer, or you could makeshift something yourself out of a tripod plate.
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