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Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories 2 Days Ago  
Tripod head for astro/DSO photography?
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 16
Views: 342
Different needs are supported by different tools and approaches.
  • Pentax employs a technique that moves the sensor within the confines of the camera body to track the star's relative motion. The camera and lens as a single monolithic unit remains fixed in terms of pointing. When used with a long focal length lens with a relatively narrow field of view, the star is going to move out of the lens' field of view fairly rapidly.

  • A tracking mount, physically holds the camera and lens as a monolithic unit and moves in opposition to the earth's rotation maintaining the pointing, and thus keeping the star within the lens' field of view. There are a wide variety of tracking mounts described here --- Telescope Mounts Tutorial

Pentax's implementation is better situated for wide field use (wide angle lenses, short focal lengths) as opposed to tracking mounts that physically move the camera/lens as a unit, and are thus pretty insensitive to the lens' focal length.

There is a lot of knowledge by a very active astrophotography group here on the forum down in --- Astrophotography - PentaxForums.com

I designed and developed a star tracker for a little telescope down in Texas - HET.

Personally, I really don't want to be bothered with a physical tracker. It's more equipment to haul around and to setup and align. Pentax's implementation for me, is much better suited - especially for astrolandscapes and wide field, which eliminates the problem of having the star field walkout of the lens' field of view.

:cool:
Forum: Photographic Industry and Professionals 11-30-2018, 05:14 AM  
A pro building the wrong reputation ...
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 43
Views: 1,817
:cool:
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 11-25-2018, 02:10 PM  
Super excited about getting the KP!
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 26
Views: 1,151
I upgraded in part from the K5IIs to the K1 a year ago, and don't have the KP. However, in light of all the high ISO praise, low ISO should be fabulous too. In shooting the K1 for the Milky Way, ISO 800 is high, although I push it to ISO51200 to check framing and focus, before turning it down to 800 to shoot for the actual image.

The KP should have a lot of the fine characteristics at lower ISO values. I see too many other folks going to the higher ISO values - well, just because they can, which does not mean that they have to.

:cool:
Forum: Photographic Technique 11-21-2018, 09:28 PM  
A different approach to panoramic images.
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 4
Views: 469
Your approach is referred to as a linear or planer or a multi-point panorama.

:cool:
Forum: Photographic Technique 11-17-2018, 04:50 AM  
mirrorless and long exposures
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 22
Views: 650
I believe it's on Olympus that does something similar, when you are in "B"ulbe or "T"imer mode and doing a long exposure, the rear monitor displays the image as time goes by. Thus, you are able to sit there in real time and say - that's what I want and end the capture, or let is continue until you are satisfied with the capture (along with displaying in real time the amount of exposure time up to that point).

:cool:
Forum: Pentax K-5 11-16-2018, 05:25 PM  
Should I buy a K-1?
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 40
Views: 1,301
What I was trying to say is that lenses may render different results between being shot on a crop body and a full frame body. It's up to the photographer to use whatever equipment to create their desired images. Some lenses were designed for corner to corner sharpness. Enlarger lenses come to mind, but you don't see a lot of them attached to the front of cameras.

Also, sharpness isn't the only desired characteristic that is desirable in lenses. It's all up to the person behind the camera.

:cool:
Forum: Pentax K-5 11-16-2018, 09:50 AM  
Should I buy a K-1?
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 40
Views: 1,301
Yes, absolutely! There are pluses and minuses on their use.
  • On the plus side - If they currently mount on a Pentax body (with or without an adapter), they will mount on the K1. Pentax has the green button for metering, the K1 offers focus peaking for assistance in manual focusing, along with the 16x zoom for magnification on the rear screen.

  • On the minus side - When using any full frame lens on any brand of crop body, you will be using the center of the lens, so the edges and corners are really areas of the center. Well more towards the center, than the actual edges and corners. You wind up getting superior results in your images, because you are shooting through the center of the lens. When you take that same lens and mount it on any full frame body, you will be using the entire lens, just not the center - because of the full frame sensor. The corners and edges of the resulting image will reflect the optical qualities of the edges and corners of the glass - rather than just the optical qualities of the areas more towards the center of the lens. So, essentially you are going back to the optical performance the lens showed with film (in a way).

The K1 has 36MP which is less than the current crop of full frame bodies running at 42 and 50MP. To me, that's a happy medium. The pixel area on the K1 sensor is about the same size as the K5's (you just have more of them), so they tend to soak up more light with their larger size (for me, all the better for astro and low light shots). With the larger full frame sensors, the older lenses may not out resolve the sensor, so the images will tend to show the older lenses' limitations. The K1 with slightly less resolution, may be a bit more forgiving - but as was shown with Nikon, when they brought out the D800/D810, superior glass will perform better. Most folks have been picking up the better quality older glass as they find them, so in your case you have acquired the older glass for a reason, and the K1 should bring out and highlight these qualities. Every lens is going to perform differently - you just have to use them and see how you like the results.

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Forum: Pentax K-5 11-15-2018, 05:45 PM  
Should I buy a K-1?
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 40
Views: 1,301
I don't use a whole lot of filters, especially for astro. Adorama has the lens at $1009, while the Tamron for Nikon/Canon is $1099.To be coupled with an overpriced lens... ???????

If you don't like the lens, there is the Irix, or the Rokinon, etc.... Whatever - your choice, your money.

:cool:
Forum: Pentax K-5 11-15-2018, 02:16 PM  
Should I buy a K-1?
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 40
Views: 1,301
It all depends on what you shoot. I shoot landscape, cityscapes, architecture and astro, usually late afternoons, evenings and night with just ambient light. I upgraded from a K5iis (well partially). A full frame sensor will help with low light (provides an additional stop to a stop and a half, just on sensor size alone).

With the K1 in shooting astro, I have been able to drop my ISO down an entire stop to ISO 800, capturing substantially better dynamic range and star color. I can shoot at midnight, no moon, just star light, so dark - you can't see your hand in front of your face dark, and capture stunning foreground views with the Milky Way over the top. Truly remarkable the difference between the K5IIs and the K1 astro images.

I don't need extraordinary fast auto focus - especially for astro. When you are shooting long exposures, the buffer size doesn't matter. Believe it or not, I still stitch - so yes the file sizes are larger and process a tad slower, but it has never been a problem.
  • I can use my 28mm shift lens as it was intended to be used and it's really wide angle now on the K1.

  • It's now difficult to imagine shooting with out the articulating screen. It's really that useful on a tripod, especially with astro.

  • The work flow with the GPS/astro is streamlined on the K1 - probably the same as the K3. Substantially easier to take a series of back to back astrotracked images.

  • Both Kirk and RRS offer custom L brackets for the K1. The RRS L bracket has a snugger fit around the body.

  • The external remote shutter release (wired) that I use with the K5 is interchangeable with the K1.

  • My Nodal Ninja 3 which is really sized for a crop body, still handles the K1 with the 15-30 pretty easily and the combination is still within the NN3's operational weight envelope.

  • It's truly remarkable how efficient the K1 is in terms of soaking up light. Its capability in bringing out the shadows is wonderful.

The (slight) negatives...
  • The first time you pick it up, you're shocked as how remarkably heavy it is. However, that disappears very quickly. When you pickup the K5, you are stunned as to how feather light it is, in comparison. I use to think that the K5IIs with the Sigma 18-35/f1.8 was a heavy combination.

  • The K1 with the 15-30 is a remarkably large and heavy combination the first time you pick it up. It's like pumping iron. The front element of the lens is really very large. However you very quickly adapt and it becomes pretty natural after a bit of use.

  • It's a beast of a camera. I am sooooo use to the K5 user interface which is extraordinary simple. The K1 (I believe adopted from the K3), has a lot of additional user interfaces - well, it's different - and you adopt quite quickly. Not really a negative - just different.

  • Ok, if you are going to be shooting astrolandscapes or night landscapes in the dead of night - you will get the white dot noise. LightRoom and Affinity Photo can't handle it. Camera One (C1) and RawTharapee does. So depending on how and what you shoot, you may need/want to change/modify your post processing utilities.


:cool:
Forum: Pentax K-1 11-13-2018, 04:13 PM  
Astro photographers help with K1 settings
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 23
Views: 892
Hi Tom, Thanks for the complement, but I need to thank you for using your K1mkII and taking the night images in your back yard at the low ISO end. That was the final item I needed to just stay with the K1 and not mod it to the mkII. The K1 does everything I need - and more. So, thanks again.

Years ago, when I first acquired the O-GPS1 for my K5, I did an experiment to see how long I could go with the astrotracking with out having to worry about smearing the foreground elements. It seemed that 40 seconds was a good number, but I never printed anything to really know for sure.

The image that I posted above, was really a happenstance. I had shot about 150 images and was ready to pack-up and go home. At the last minute, before I tore everything down, I thought that I would zoom back to 15mm and just shoot 3 vertical panels to stitch quickly and see how it turned out. That's the story. The things that I learned that were significant to me...
  • On the 15-30 if you are in focus at 30mm, you will be in focus at 15mm. This saves a lot of time and is a life saver.

  • In terms of smearing, 40 seconds on a crop body being ok, 50 seconds on a full frame, with larger real estate turn out to also be ok. Take a look at the the white dot camera 1 - link from above that I posted, and you can see the detail in the cactus that is deep in the shadows, at 300% is being pretty detailed, taken at 1am with just star light - that's good enough. I keep meaning to send this image over to Costco for a 20" x 30" $10 test print, but I'm pretty satisfied.

  • I have found that this 3 panel quick stitch with a bit of post processing (actually making it a bit brighter to see some additional detail), helps me with the larger final stitched pano, in terms of deciding which images - foreground and sky, to use as the main ones to process, and how to process them, so keep things pretty natural, but to bring out a reasonable amount of detail and overall colors - so as to have some real foreground interest.


Well, actually this is in the desert. This was taken in the desert, about 70 miles east of Phoenix off of highway 60 about 5 miles before the little town of Superior (the light dome off to the left). It's in the US Forest Service - National Forest. The light dome off to the right is an open pit Ray mine, 40 miles away. There is this little gully, gulch, draw, valley or whatever you wish to describe it as - of about 4 acres (measured off of google earth) with oak trees that has been somewhat fenced in, as a cattle pen for roundup - with a windmill for water and a cattle chute for loading. You can even see the barb wire in the image running down to the bottom of the gully next to the windmill. It's a nothing washed out image during the day, but at night, it just works.

I'm in the process of changing my workflow for several reasons.
  • Raw Processing - The white dot issue. Either Capture 1 (C1) or RawTharapee (RT). I gotta do more research on RT it's free, but a lot of folks like C1 better. I really want one stop shopping that will handle 16 bit imagery. I'm sorta of leaning towards C1.

  • Masking, Compositing and Stitching - I'v been using Microsoft ICE because I could not decide on a commercial stitcher. Several years ago GoPro bought Kolor and then closed it just a month ago, so AutoPano is no longer available. ICE has a problem at times with over sampling - so I am pushing its capabilities in a number of respects. I just keep using it, since it's simple to use and free. Also,my wife has me on a budget for photography stuff.

I'v pretty much decided to go with PTGui Pro. It does everything well and also has some limited masking ability built in. Several years ago, they solved their oversampling problem (which usually manifests itself with low light imagery).

Now, having said that - there is also PhotoShop (PS). In terms of masking and compositing - PS really appears to be an all in one stop. Other composite utilities (of which there are only a few) only handle 8 bit imagery, which limits color depth, or when you join the two images, it handles the joining pretty poorly. Affinity Photo (AP), their stitching is ok, but nothing to set the world on fire. It lags ICE's capabilities. Their compositing has a number of limitations - of which their tech support disagrees. Anyway AP is not a real choice here.

So, that tends to move my thinking towards PS for masking, compositing and stitching. It also handles 16 and 32 bit imagery just fine with full color depth. As much as I dislike Adobe and their subscriptions - it's looking like PS it is. On the bright side, there are lots of video tutorials (youtube) available for PS - especially in masking, compositing and stitching.

I have also found probably the best masking utility around - Fluid Mask 3, which is PS compatible. Given the trees and windmill, I think that this would be a good backup to PS.
So, I'm thinking Camera 1 for raw editing with its superior noise reduction (white dot) capability, and PS for masking, compositing and stitching.

In terms of use, when I shoot the images - the first row is level with the horizon and stitches as a cylinder. The second row is canted (tilted up at about 30 degrees) and stitches as a sphere. I'm shooting off of a pano head (Nodal Ninja 3) So, if I stitch the foreground as a row standalone and then stitch the sky, neither row will match up perfectly. You need to stitch them together all at once.

Also, when I shot, I also shot 2 sets of images for the sky row. One set as the foreground - 2 minute images of the tree and windmill for best detail and low noise, and a second set for the sky 50 second astrotracked images.

My thinking is to mask the sky out on the tree / windmill foreground image set, then mask the tree/windmill out of the sky image set. Then PS when stitching and compositing should (hopefully) set the masked in parts in to the masked out areas. That should be as perfect as I think I can get.

One of my (minor) complaints about C1 was the colors appeared to be slightly better in LightRoom - especially the greens. I just came across this video yesterday by accident that I believe shows how to make the color adjustments.















  • You Tube





Also, just a side note. I've been shooting 50 second astrotracked images to ensure the edges and corners have as little star trailing as possible. I'v tried out 60, 70 and 90 seconds. 90 sec has a tad more than what I really want, and 70 sec images appears to look like 50 seconds for trailing, but with more star color and lower noise. So, I think I will be pushing astrotracking out to 70 seconds. I do think that 70 second astrotracked images will smear the foreground too much.

The day before I go out and shoot the MW, I post process the last time I shot the MW or at the same location. This reminds me of the problems I having and I start thinking about possible changes or additions to shooting that location.

:cool:
Forum: Pentax K-1 11-12-2018, 11:34 AM  
Astro photographers help with K1 settings
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 23
Views: 892
Morning - I find a lot of the settings used are somewhat based on personal preference. What others find acceptable might have a bit too much star streaking for me. Also, I see images from others who shoot off an equatorial mount for say 5 minutes and then stack multiple frames together creates wonderful colorful images, but are so bright as to be unnatural in their presentation. So, that's why I subscribe a lot of this to personal preference.



Ok, 30 seconds for me produces way too much streaking. The 500 "rule" is reasonable guidance, but it's really only guidance and again, produces way too much star trailing for my tastes, and what I'm going after. There is also a "200", "300" and "400" rule (same utilization) that produce less and less streaking, respectively.

Personally, I moved away from the various "rules" and guidance, to a more deterministic approach. Here is a calculator that uses pixel boxes (user defined), based on sensor size, to determine the most reasonable shutter speeds to reduce star streaking or trailing. For crop sensors (K5 16MP), I like to use 4 pixel boxes (or Pixel Tolerance). For the K1, I really have only used the astrotracing capability, however the pixel sizes of the K5 and the K1 are relatively the same size, but obviously the K1 is a much larger sensor. You could probably get away with using 8 or so (but I would probably use 6 or 7). Also, I like to use the Diagonal times, as it's a combination of both the vertical and horizontal.
Your question in terms of 30 seconds would produce an acceptable pixel box of ~14, which for me would create star trails that would be a bit too long. The 500 rule (using a focal length of 24 from your 24-70 lens) would have a suggested shutter speed of ~20 seconds, which would produce star trails of ~9 pixels - which for me may be a bit too long.

You are going to need to experiment a bit to see what suites your eye and purposes best.


I have shot with the AstroTracer with LENR both on and off. In my opinion, it really depends on your composition. If you are going to have very little to no landscape (foreground) in the frame, then NR probably does not matter that much. Where you are going to encounter noise is in the shadows of the landscape foreground element - in particular the "white dots" (but red and green are also annoying, but the white ones are usually much more apparent).

I have found that having LENR enabled is very effective, at the expense of doubling the time that the camera is in use for the shot. 1 minute exposures locks the camera up for 2 minutes while it's capturing the dark frame and then subtracting it. This is the most effective, since it's guaranteed of using the same environmental factors. That said, you can also take a dark frame yourself - usually after you are done shooting a bunch of frames, and then using post processing tools to make the subtraction.

It also becomes a factor of which post processing raw editor you are using. Lightroom and Photoshop are very weak here. Affinity Photo does not support this very well either. Camera One (C1) is extremely effective in cleaning up this noise with just loading the image. RawTharapee, I'm told also has a slider that effectively removes the "white dots" (as well as red and green) pretty well.You have a few choices with this....
  1. Live with it.

  2. Enable LENR.

  3. Capture a dark frame and then post process the noise away.

  4. Use a RAW editor that has an effective approach in removing the noise.


There are some basic factors you need to take into consideration, that are just the law of physics.
  • The higher the ISO, the less dynamic range and star color you captured image will have.

  • The Sony sensors that Pentax uses are ISO invariant. Here is a link that explains it all pretty well. Bottom line is that if you shoot at a high ISO, in post processing you are stuck. You have lost dynamic range and color. On the other hand if you shoot at a relatively low ISO, you capture the better dynamic range and color, AND you can in post boot the exposure.

  • Based on this, I really never go above ISO 1600. In fact, for me ISO 800 on the K1 is pretty optimal. Now, having said that - there are always exceptions, e.g., rules are always made to be broken. You have to apply some sensibilities here - your are the photographer. Also, "film" is cheap - when in doubt, shoot it multiple ways, so that you will have the raw data to post process later.

With the K1, I just default to astro - it's just so drop dead easy - however, it does somewhat commit you to potentially masking and compositing. I have found that at 40 to 50 second astrotraced shots, they are VERY usable on the web - where the smearing in the foreground landscape is virtually unnoticeable (on the web @ 1000 pixels on the long side). Now for printing at size - say 20" x 30" (which I have not done yet but I need to), you are right on the boarder. Pixel peeping at 100% shows, that it just might be ok. I really can't say for sure.

Here is an image, K1, 15mm, f2.8, 50 seconds, astrotracked, 3 images stitched together that shows very little to no foreground smearing.


I shoot with the 15-30. I (try to) shoot very simple straight forward at 15mm (either a single image, or a 2 or 3 or maybe even 4 image stitch) using it as a reference image (throwaway test - so that I can gauge somewhat how to process the more detailed stitches). These are simple to process and stitch - usually a minute or so. Then I shoot the same scene at 30mm (which doubles the amount of light I'm able to capture compared to 15mm (same f stop, however the size of the physical aperture is substantially larger at a longer focal length), and usually shoot a 7 x 2 or 3 stitched panorama. This takes substantially longer to process - since you need to mask and composite the sky and ground elements together.

Shooting with the 15-30, I do need to take in to consideration how the stars are going to track in the corners and along the edges of the frame. With UWA lenses, the stars in the corners and edges track at a faster rate than what they do in the center - just physics at work. To minimize this effect, you need to keep the shutter times below about 90 seconds. That's one reason why I stitch a lot, so I essentially only use the center of the frames with the edges dropped. Also on the sides, I can crop the edges off (so I shoot wider than what I need to). This does not affect the foreground - just the sky. Again, I shoot 2 rows - so that I'll have a bit of additional frame to crop off, if I need to.

:cool:
Forum: Pentax Film SLR Discussion 11-04-2018, 03:13 AM  
Newbie to the SLR world
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 10
Views: 670
Good Morning, I just got up to get a drink of water, and decided to surf the web for a bit before going back to bed. Here is a link to the forum's camera reviews - the M43 screw mount film cameras, which includes the SP, SP II & SV etc. You will have to click on the links and read the reviews which themselves have a lot of information.I have my trusty old Spotmatic II sitting on the shelf over in the corner. Wonderful camera, but really they are all wonderful camera bodies.
  • On the foam question - the foam gets dried out and then just turns to dust which creates light leaks. There are foam kits available for replacement.

  • Other tests - well there is a switch on the left side of the lens mount housing that activates the light meter. You can push it up and the light meter should engage. By looking through the viewfinder you will see a little lever over to the right hand side of the viewfinder. This is the light meter with a "+" and "-" indicator. If the lever bounces around you have a good battery. On the bottom of the camera, there is a little round access hatch that you can open with a coin, to check that the battery if installed has not leaked. You also use the knob on the top to set the shutter speed, so vary it and take a picture.You should be able to tell the difference between 1 sec and say 1/2 sec. That would be a rough test - also try infinity (open while depressing the shutter button).

Other than that - they are pretty simple cameras.... I haven't really used mine for ages - really since going to digital.

:cool:
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 11-02-2018, 12:42 PM  
Kolor has closed - AutoPano Panorama Stitching Software no longer available.
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 5
Views: 520
Over the last 5 to 6 years, I have tried all of them- ICE, Hugin, PanoFactory, AutoStitch, AutoPano, PTGui, Affinity Photo, etc. It all comes down to a couple of things...
  • Linear or Multi-Point Panoramas - I have something like 700 images taken of a couple of very narrow cobble stone streets of old row houses, that I want to stitch together. There are just a multitude of problems.

  • AstroLandscape images - high definition Milky Way over landscape images that need to be both stitched and composited together.

So, what I'm doing is on the outer fringe of the envelope of the various package capabilities. None do everything well. One excels here and fails there.

It's been long enough, that I probably should go back and re-evaluate all the packages. Most do most aspects well - I just tend to shoot odd things and am pushing the envelope.

:cool:
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 10-31-2018, 08:28 PM  
Kolor has closed - AutoPano Panorama Stitching Software no longer available.
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 5
Views: 520
I was doing my monthly email cleanup when I came across an email from Nodal Ninja sent the other day. It was a notification that Kolor had closed and that Nodal Ninja had received Kolor's customer names and email addresses.






QuoteQuote:

From Bill Bailey LLC dba Nodal Ninja
NOTICE ONLY - NOT SELLING ANYTHING - PLEASE READ
As most of you may now be are aware GoPro has closed the doors to Kolor. Through this closure, GoPro sent us many Kolor customer names and email addresses which we incorporated into our database. While we never asked for this information you can rest assured that we will not share or sell any customer information outside of Nodal Ninja.

Many of you work, dabble, or play with VR, 360 panoramas, 360 tours, 360 videos, gigapixel imagery etc. This is all very cool stuff in a rapidly growing marketplace. For those who do not know us we too work within this genre and have always been supportive of the photographers that make this industry possible.

We are sending you this courtesy email to invite you to join our community. However, out of respect for your privacy, we always present the option to unsubscribe from these types of communications if you do not wish to receive them.
Very rarely do we send more than 2 or even 3 newsletters per month.

We wanted to send this notice prior to our next newsletter giving you the option to opt out of future newsletters and notices.

Thank you for your time but more importantly your patronage to the industry.

Bill Bailey
CEO



Now, rather than trying to decide which of the 2 main panorama stitching utilities to buy - it's now down to just PTGui.
Forum: Pentax K-1 10-31-2018, 09:42 AM  
New territory for me Panoramic shot needed
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 12
Views: 657
Look at a Theata V...
:cool:
Forum: Travel, Events, and Groups 10-28-2018, 08:33 PM  
information sought - SAC Museum Ashland, Nebraska
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 8
Views: 592
You can always stitch in order to go wider, and the combine using Microsoft ICE.

:cool:
Forum: Photographic Technique 10-25-2018, 04:05 AM  
Setting up K5ii in low light
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 15
Views: 735
I dabble in a bit of astrophotography - well the Milky Way over landscapes. High ISO just reduces dynamic range, clipping more stars and losing their color.

I use 51200 to check my framing / composition, focus, levelness of the camera, etc., a test shot/throwaway - then turn the ISO back down for the real shot.

:cool:
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing 10-22-2018, 09:26 PM  
Capture One - the K1 and the White Dots
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 6
Views: 691
Thanks for the suggestions. Still trying to figure out just what to do. I see RawTharapee has a capability to remove the white dots also. I've been playing around with one set of images. The way I shot the scene at 30mm it takes about 17 to stitch everything together.

Also, I'm in the midst of changing some other things around, so I'm trying to get the workflow tools down - and stay within the budget my wife has imposed.

:cool:
Forum: Pentax K-1 10-19-2018, 09:27 PM  
K-1 white dot issue. ?
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 516
Views: 42,362
I need to start using Raw Tharpee a lot more I guess.... Thanks!!!!

:cool:
Forum: Pentax K-1 10-15-2018, 10:29 AM  
K-1ii white dot issue ?
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 18
Views: 1,086
I have seen a couple of references to RawTherapee raw processing being one of the best for astro images. I have not read anything on its ability to clean up the white dots on the K1's images though. This would be an additional approach. I currently have the C1 30 day trial, and it does an excellent job - but I like the LR processing better (color rendering) - which is probably not having enough experience with C1. I just ran across this post on the topic today...Overall, LENR fixes the problem, but I would really would rather not double my exposure time on each frame. Taking a dark frame is an option and I'm now doing that as the last frame I take for the evening. The perfect solution is not having to deal with the problem - but at what cost in terms of in camera processing (possibly a repeat of the Sony star eater issues). I'm guessing that Pentax somewhat knew about the problem and just decided that LENR is the solution and let it slide.

I do wish that Adobe would figure out what C1 does and implement a similar approach (processing option). Having the possibly of Raw Tharapee cleaning the dots would be nice, especially since the price meets with the Chancellor of the Exchequer's approval (my wife).

:cool:
Forum: Pentax K-1 10-15-2018, 10:10 AM  
K-1 white dot issue. ?
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 516
Views: 42,362
I've been looking at Capture One for K1 white dot removal. I currently have their 30 trial. I find that it works well, however in terms of coloring I like the output from LightRoom better (but LR does not do anything for the white dots). Also, I hate to spend $300 for C1 and really only use it to clean the dots.

I have not heard about Raw Therapee's capability to clean off the white dots. Using Raw Therapee what would be the process/approach to use in removing the white dots? I've used Raw Therapee very little....

:cool:
Forum: Pentax K-1 10-14-2018, 06:29 PM  
K-1ii white dot issue ?
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 18
Views: 1,086
Forum: Pentax K-1 10-14-2018, 02:42 AM  
How to Carry It?
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 26
Views: 1,237
I don't know that NYC actually permits open carry. Out here in Arizona, you see it every now and then - but we're out here in the wild wild west.

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Forum: Pentax K-1 10-14-2018, 02:35 AM  
K-1ii white dot issue ?
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 18
Views: 1,086
I have only found 2 approaches around the white dot issue with my original K1. I've experienced white dots with exposures of 50 sec, ISO 800 @ f2.8 using the astrotracer.
  • Using the in-camera Long Exposure Noise Reduction (LENR) setting - which is essentially dark frame subtraction. This doubles your long exposure with the camera taking a second dark frame to subtract from the first. Or you can take a dark frame manually and in post processing subtract it off (PhotoShop).

  • Use Camera One (C1) for post processing with out using a dark frame. This raw processing utility removes the white dots automagically upon loading the image. I don't know of RAW Tharpee is able to also do this, but LightRoom is not able to remove them.


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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 10-10-2018, 10:23 AM  
New to photography. Help me choose a pentax.
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 69
Views: 2,536
Personally, I would go with the K5IIs as the body. I have one and use it for astro in addition to my K1. You are going to want to shoot it at ISO 1600 for astro and at 1600 and lower the K5IIs out performs the K3 on noise. That said, there are other expenses too.
  • Lens - look at the Rokinon 16mm f2 for around $300

  • Lens - look to pickup a kit lens 18-55mm for less than $100 for general landscapes and stuff

  • GPS - the O-GOS1 for $100 to $150 for astrotracking

  • Tripod with head - something used on craigslist for less than $100

  • Remote shutter release - for around $10


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