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Forum: Pentax Mirrorless Cameras 02-06-2013, 07:17 PM  
Why did you buy a K-01?
Posted By Louicio
Replies: 156
Views: 21,088
I bought one for my gf when they became cheap, now I love it and she is at risk of losing it lol.
Forum: Pentax Q 12-18-2012, 02:33 PM  
Original Pentax Q>PK adapter arrives! Mini review.
Posted By snostorm
Replies: 140
Views: 22,999
Hi SonDA5,

It really depends on what you want to do with your Q and adapted lenses.

Here's where I stand -- I want to use the Q mostly for super telephoto and handheld macro shooting with flash (and secondarily as a high quality pocket compact). The very significant advantage of the Pentax adapter with the integral shutter is for the macro stuff.

With a 3rd party adapter, the Q defaults to 1/13 sec shutter speed with flash. This is because it can only use the electronic shutter in the sensor since only Q Quality Line lenses have mechanical shutters (leaf shutters in each lens). When shooting outdoors during daylight, the ambient light overpowers the flash at 1/13 sec, so using flash to freeze either camera shake, subject motion, or both in macro shooting is ineffective. The Q, with adapted dedicated macro lenses has a lot of potential, because the crop factor adds almost 4x perceived magnifcation, and the camera and lens combination is comparatively small and light -- macro shooting is often done in very awkward positions so the light weight is very convenient.

The Pentax adapter helps this situation, which I had tried to work around for the better part of a year. The shutter in the adapter allows me to use external P-TTL flashes with adapted lenses at up to 1/250 sec, which effectively can eliminate ambient light for outdoor daylight handheld macro shooting, and it seems that i can use external manual or auto thyristor flashes at 1/160 sec, which will also accomplish the same effect.

For super telephoto shooting, flash is not often a requirement, so the advantages of a mechanical shutter are a bit more esoteric. Electronic shutters are prone to "rolling shutter effect". This is visible as essentially a bending distortion of a subject that moves laterally in relation to the camera while the shutter is "open". It isn't really evident in most situations because shutter speed is usually pretty high during daylight, but I've seen it as a very subtle rippling in what should be a dead straight line on some shots taken with 3rd party adapters, even at relatively high shutter speeds. Granted, I had to really look for it at very high image magnifications, and it really didn't effect the viewing of the image at normal sizes -- but digital photographers, especially on forums like this can be a particularly picky lot when we choose to be. . .:o If this were the only advantage, I'd stick with the 3rd party ones and be satisfied.

Bottom line, to realize the Q's potential for getting very high perceived magnifications in handheld macros with flash, the high price of the Pentax adapter is worth it to me. I've got over 6x the price of this adapter already sunk into dedicated macro lenses, and though I'm not pleased to have to spend a lot more money to use them as I had originally envisioned, I'm happy that Pentax came up with a solution. Putting a precision shutter mechanism into an adapter is not an easy proposition, and the cost is justified IMO. Also, the aperture adjustment mechanism is easily the most precise and easiest to use of all the adapters that can adjust apertures so far, and the anti internal reflection treatment is also the best I've seen, so it appears they didn't spare much expense in building this adapter. I'm happy they didn't price it higher. . .

Bottom line, extrapolate your possible uses for this camera and adapter. It's better to buy the one that will meet all of your projected needs than to get the less expensive one, then find that it falls short, and have to buy the more expensive one in addition. YMMV of course.

Scott
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 09-10-2012, 05:32 PM  
Pentax Facebook says K-5II will boast the widest AF range of any DSLR currently avail
Posted By Belnan
Replies: 211
Views: 26,925
Pentax need to a cap on this ASAP or High end users will spilling out from the top.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 08-12-2012, 10:44 PM  
Switching from the K-5 to D7000; Am I overreacting?
Posted By traderdrew
Replies: 131
Views: 15,407
Reading these responses has been interesting and some of it supports my own theory.

"If you have doubts and/or don't believe in your camera and your ability to use it effectively then, this will effect your creative processes and therefore your results."

http://www.flickr.com/photos/andrewdalerichardson/
Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories 03-21-2010, 12:08 AM  
Infrared intervalometer K-x (soldering required)
Posted By kxr4trids
Replies: 23
Views: 15,536
Thought I was being brilliant, but discovered searching here that someone else did it first, so here's their link:
creating a programmable remote shutter release for Pentax Kx scanar

Didn't want to hassle with 2 remotes and a floppy plug, so I bought the larger intervalometer

Ordered from China one somewhat inexpensive Pentax intervalometer ($35) and one inexpensive Pentax (K-x) infrared remote($5).

Despite not having a non-K-x Pentax camera, I didn't want to lose the wired functionality of the remote (figure I paid for it), but I didn't want to be carrying around a floppy bundle of wires that I wasn't using either. Decided to get a 2.5mm stereo jack from radio shack and wire it inline, so that a male/male cable could be used with a wired camera at some point in the future.

By chopping off the back half of the infrared remote, it will fit in the cavity of the intervalometer. Because the switch is on the right and the intervalometer board interferes to the front, the LED has to be oriented out the left hand side. This is actually quite convenient, as it should allow the unit to be mounted to the side of the camera strap bracket with the LED pointing directly at the IR sensor. Naturally you need to make a LED sized hole in the side with your hole making tool of choice.

Having removed the battery section of the IR remote, the IR board can be wired to the intervalometer battery contacts. The contacts are just kind of sitting in indentations on the board, so they will come loose when adding the wire if you are not careful.

The RED and Blue wires from the intervalometer can be wired, one to each side of the switch junction on the reverse of the IR board. Because this side is facing the rear of the intervalometer PCB, it would be a good idea to cover the contacts with liquid electrical tape or similar when you are done.

**Note: The pictures show the blue and white wires - THIS IS WRONG - Blue and white have continuity as long as there is a battery in the unit, even when the power switch is off. The blue and red wires should be used instead.** I fixed this, but was too lazy to take more pictures.:o

If you want to retain wired functionality, wire the stereo jack inline. White is ground, red left channel, blue is the right channel... Of course, you're checking continuity to verify this, right?

Left the stub of the cable in the front just to keep dirt out.

The piezeo got knocked off by accident during final assembly, and I decided I was done with soldering for the day and didn't mind not having beeps, but it will fit in there too. Those foam double sided sticky squares used to hang posters work great for holding the piezo and the IR board in place.
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