Forgot Password
Pentax Camera Forums Home
Log in or register to remove ads.

Showing results 1 to 25 of 300 Search:
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 10-07-2021, 06:44 PM  
Pentax 67 Brown Chain -- Rust, Repaired?
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 3
Views: 542
I have had to edit my response after examining your photo of the chain at a much higher magnification (20x), adjusting the photo for clarity and exposure.

The surface of the chain appears to be tarnished through age/exposure.
I don't think it is rust, nor a repaired chain. This discolouration would not affect its operation. Chains in cameras of very good condition are very similar in their presentation, ranging from bright bronze or gold across their length to the dull brownish colour shown in your image; replacement chains (from c. 1992 to 1993) were sometimes silver, or taken from other 67 / 6x7 bodies. DIY repairers often used commonly available jewellery chain, or for more reliable results, tiger-tail multistrand beading wire (similar to what the Olympus OM4 used for its meter coupling) — significantly stronger than these admittedly weak chains that do not take kindly to rough use.

Ensure you follow prism/lens removal/replacement protocol to avoid stretching and by association, breakage. The camera is not unusable in the event of chain breakage, but the operational workaround is annoying.


Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 06-30-2021, 07:33 PM  
Pentax 67 mirror lock up? Shutter issue?? HELP
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 3
Views: 834
If your camera has the MLU function (sliding nib on left side of mirror box, viewed from the front), this should be taped over to stop it from activating when the camera is stored in a pack and transported. If it is jarred through movement, the mirror will flip up and will flatten the battery. When this occurs, a reset of the mirror is required, v.i.z., firstly install a new battery. With a wooden toothpick or pointed match (do not use anything metallic), insert it into the reset hole left front of camera (again, viewed from the front) and press once. Then press the shutter button once, and wind-on. This being the standard and effective mirror reset operation, the mirror should thus reset to its normal position. If it does not, a bigger problem exists somewhere.

DO NOT SUBJECT THE CAMERA TO BANGING OR RAPPING ANYWHERE on the assumption that will fix a problem you are not familiar with. This brutal action (I've hard of worse!) could well damage the winding mechanism.
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 06-22-2021, 06:48 PM  
6x7 55mm F/3.5 thud?
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 12
Views: 646
Not the earlier f3.5 version. For the later SMC-Pentax 67-designated lens — short answer: yes. I had just come into 6x7 at the time of owning the 55mm f4, which came with the camera, so it was my first and only lens for a time.

My first 18 legacy images (from 2010 to 2013) remain my very best. The 77mm filter size also was handy for swapping over filters that also fitted to Canon EOS L-series lenses at the time.
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 06-22-2021, 06:25 PM  
6x7 55mm F/3.5 thud?
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 12
Views: 646
Unfortunately, a number of SMC Pentax 67 55mm lenses were afflicted by an internal rattle or thud, depending on how the lens is handled to have the abnormality manifest. Opinions vary, but some think it is a bearing runner moving back and forth. It can be mightily annoying. I jettisoned the 55mm long ago (2013?) as I just could not stand the rattle, substituted for a 45mm f4. This lens is is one of the top-shelf performers in imaging quality and is worth holding on to. If the lens is in otherwise mint condition and unmarked, your choice is to either keep it and see how it goes (the rattle/thud has no effect on image quality or lens operation) or, at the other extreme, return it — tedious, expensive and fraught with risk. However, due to the fact it is a known fault, getting a refund on the rattle alone might be difficult.
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 02-11-2021, 03:40 PM  
Anyone ever shoot 35mm film in the Pentax 6x7?
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 18
Views: 2,030
It is not panorama, either actual or implied. Just a vicious crop that is quite silly. There have been reported problems using these adaptor spools in older Pentax 6x7 / Asahi Pentax cameras with longer film spool poles; in one case I remember the poles had to be cut down to prevent jamming. I have seen the adaptor used in a Pentax 6x7 but the results did not inspire me (or the other owner!) to keep at it. Frankly, it's a corruption of the format's characteristics that make it so appealing.
Forum: General Talk 02-07-2021, 04:43 PM  
RIP Christopher Plummer
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 8
Views: 748

Blossom of snow, may you bloom and grow,
bloom and grow, forever—.

He had a rich and varied upbringing into music and theatre in his Canadian homeland (Toronto, then Montreal).

Greatly remembered for his beautiful, timeless performance with Julie Andrews in The Sound of Music from 1965, a musical I still watch today and sing along to (yes, I'm that old!! :lol: ). Even if the musical itself is not historically accurate, it has stood the test of time as an evergreen with perpetual general appeal.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 02-04-2021, 08:26 PM  
Dented lens thread
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 9
Views: 922
I absolutely would not go near nor by this specific lens if it exhibited front thread damage. That has been seen in Australia, and further inspection revealed a misaligned front element (passed off as having "copped a minor ding on the front with a it of fuzz..."). I would recommend having the lens professionally tested for optical precision, besides that being what the lens is well known for.

Avoid the temptation to use poor quality filters on the 75/2.8AL. Doing so defeats the entire purpose of its sparkling optical performance. Sadly, some people I have come across are putting $10 filters on this lens, and worse, 4 more stacked on it. If the lens is $900+ , no reason why a filter of equivalent refined optical quality should be purchased to compliment it.
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 02-03-2021, 04:04 PM  
Batteriet is going dry
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 4
Views: 902
I don't think this is the problem, but just to mention it as a point of importance often overlooked by new users: if your 67 has the mirror lock-up facility, ensure this is taped over before stowing the camera in a pack (see photo), as it is very, very easy for this to be activated and completely exhaust the battery. Otherwise, an electrical short is likely responsible for the persistent draining of the battery, very likely if several batteries are replaced over a very short time. Normally a battery can last several years. I haven't changed my 67 battery since 2012.
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 01-27-2021, 12:07 AM  
Desperately seeking advice on a SLEW of Pentax 67 issues
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 9
Views: 4,712
G'day from sunny Queensland, Downunder...

Tut, tut. It is not a tall ask. I can feel your BP and your frustration rising, probably not helped by the chill gloom of London-town... Nice 'n warm here...

One thing I notice is the winding and seizure mid-roll; this is very often symptomatic of a slipped (or stripped) winding pawl in the advance lever: it will wind on 3 or 4 frames, then become vague, then stick, failing to wind on even after the shutter is pressed or the reset procedure is run. This is particularly prevalent among the very early Pentax 6x7 cameras that have seen sustained, brutal professional use (these cameras are well over half a century old, with the P67 cameras a lot younger by comparison). The but mechanism can also fail of its own volition — it is a known Achilles Heel, if you will.

Regarding the trick of removing and re-inserting the battery, has a check been run of the condition of the terminals in the battery compartment? There are no visible wires once the battery is removed; if something is expected, the entire battery compartment should be removed for inspection. That the system resets when the battery is removed and replaced may point to the shutter/mirror solenoid not completing a cycle and only doing so when power is interrupted/cut off, then restored. As you know, the MLU cannot be activated after an exposure and the film not wound on (exception: those 67 cameras with the factory-fitted multiple-exposure facility).

Can you explain why the reset button is not working? Assuming that you are using something like a toothpick (ideal) rather than a ballpoint pen which will not often reach the deeply recessed button below. This reset is often a last resort tactic to get a stubborn camera operational again. If it definitely is not working, I am very concerned.

Unless you are confident and patient, I wouldn't really recommend servicing the mirror magnet/solenoid as a DIY. Doubtless, instructions for doing so exist on the web (I can't look: I don't like camera porn!), but can you be absolutely sure it is the mirror solenoid magnet? As stated above, removing and replacing the battery seemingly resets the solenoid process, but I'm not 100% sure. Reported (and confirmed) problems with this part of the camera are much seldom seen than others concerning, for instance, the winding mechanism/film counter, shutter speed dial or latterly, TTL meter gremlins.

Repair can unfortunately involve cost, very much so if you are sending long-distance, when road freight, not post, is the way to go. And repair of the camera is what I would prefer be done. I have stated this many times before, and it won't harm to state it again: if the camera requires repairs, no news parts are available, and what parts are required for replacement are transplanted from a like-camera — a Pentax 6x7 for repair will have parts taken from another Pentax 6x7. Conversely, the more modern Pentax 67 will have parts taken from a donor Pentax 67. The mirror solenoid/magnet was not changed from the 6x7 to the 67, but many other parts were, including tiny components of the winding mechanism.

As you are based in the UK, I think it would be wholly impactical to send the camera to the USA for repair. If you really want to cut your losses and save more grief, bite the bullet and buy another camera; it's unpallatable, I know, and won't actually endear you to yourself in doing after another camera that could (but hopefully not!!) reward you with a whole new set of bugger-all problems.

Forum: Pentax Medium Format 01-21-2021, 04:10 PM  
Looking to join the Pentax family with a Pentax 67. Advice needed
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 48
Views: 4,062
Handles are an optional trinket. And I'm the shameless oddball here. 100% of the time my 67 is tripod-mounted, always has been, and this technique is also reflected down through the decades of photography I have been involved in; the comparison may be wild, but it is still valid looked at obliquely: would you shoot a large format camera handheld, hmm?

Doubtless a handle is useful in repetitive studio shooting applications where one camera, having exhausted its roll of film, is quickly hauled overhead to an assistant and a freshly-loaded replacement handed back. Otherwise, it's an encumbrance packing the camera away, and does add weight. The simple takeaway is that personal preferences and experience will be your best guide, not what other people actually find useful.

---------- Post added 22nd Jan 2021 at 10:14 AM ----------

Yes and no. They do try, indeed. But they are let down, quite badly, by the language barrier. It is not easy to transliteralise Japanese to English or English to Japanese. It is known that descriptions of just about anything, and particularly photographic equipment, are "bulk-rolled" and shared amongst a vast cohort of sellers, a sort of "one size fits all" that does not really reflect the true picture. It helps if you can write Japanese, as my niece can. Once they get correspondence in their language, you'd be very, very surprised how well they go with communication and helpfulness.
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 01-21-2021, 12:34 AM  
Looking to join the Pentax family with a Pentax 67. Advice needed
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 48
Views: 4,062
The TTL meter coupling chain can be repaired, commonly with tiger-tail microfilament beading wire — an enormously strong and extremely flexible substitute for the flimsy OEM chain.

Servicing the chain requires disassembly of the lens mount flange, removal of the old chain and any remnants if it has broken more than once, and threading and securing of the new wire around the guides (not chain). You would need to be handy with beading wire and crimping, and confident working with small fiddly parts. Once threaded, the chain is wound to tension and a hook attached to the coupling pin — the tiny stub visible at the extreme right of the chain runner on the camera in the pic. After assembly, the lens mount will require precise calibration for focus at three points on the focusing screen. If this is not done, precise focus will be difficult to achieve.

Observe the requirement that if you remove the TTL prism while the lens is on — remove the lens, re-mount the TTL prism and finally re-mount the lens. This method releases the chain from tension that causes breakage. Something that has obviously happened with the camera in the pic.

• PIC: an enlarged view of tiger-tail beading wire.
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 01-20-2021, 08:26 PM  
Pentax 67 Frame Not Advancing - Halfway through Roll
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 4
Views: 582
Can you confirm positively that the leader of the film has engaged with the spike in the film take-up spool (right side of camera)? There would be a pre-punched hole in the leader for this purpose if using Fujifilm, but if it's Ilford or Kodak film, the hole must be made by you in the leader. Alternatively, a tiny piece of tape used to adhere the leader to the spool. Then pull the leader across until the START line aligns with the 120-mark on the film guide rail (above the shutter).

Also that the film pressure plate has been set to 120 and the side switch has also been set to 120.

The film counter roller mentioned in the foregoing posts (to the right of the shutter gate) is a very frail item; rotating it counterclockwise can actually ruin the delicate mechanism. In normal everyday use, nothing should go near it, definitely no fingers or playing.
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 01-20-2021, 08:18 PM  
Looking to join the Pentax family with a Pentax 67. Advice needed
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 48
Views: 4,062
There is no intrusion/obtrusion of the TTL meter needle as the indicator is masked and in the very lower central part of the viewfinder, outside the working perimeter of the viewfinder proper.

Find out from the seller why the TTL meter prism isn't working, and determine if he/she has made any attempts to repair it, or if you could (?).
I would personally avoid a non-working prism of any type and get just the body only, adding a fully-functioning prism later, if it so suited me.

You can certainly focus directly on the focusing screen without any sort of viewfinder attached. It will require care and practice though. It's something I do occasionally when I get jack of the dark view of the 45mm f4 lens used with a polariser in marginal light.
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 01-20-2021, 01:13 AM  
Looking to join the Pentax family with a Pentax 67. Advice needed
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 48
Views: 4,062
If you are only replacing an older TTL meter prism with a more recent incarnation (e.g. Pentax 67 prism), nothing will be gained by way of brightness on ground glass. The real culprit is the inherently coarse native focusing screen. It could perhaps be swapped out for the acute matte, or something like with gridlines (this type of focusing screen is installed in my EOS 1N and invaluable for tilt-shift manipulation).

I have found the chimney finder (it has dioptric correction and an eyecup) gives a perceived brighter view (and actual 100% view coverage), but is awkward to the point of being a nuisance in landscape photography -- mine especially where everything is very often in portrait orientation!
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 01-18-2021, 02:49 AM  
Looking to join the Pentax family with a Pentax 67. Advice needed
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 48
Views: 4,062
There is an interesting thread here on PF somewhere about the undeniably frustrating experiment by a P67 owner trying to get a near-enough dioptric correction lens fitted from a Nikon F100. I think some modification of that (F100) lens would be required. Additionally, the native P67 dioptric lens is encased in a knurled metal ring which would have to be cut open (e.g. with a fine circular-blade Dremel cutter). Something about the thickness of the F100 lens being a sticking point.

I do think a lot of fuss and tedium could be saved by going just for the right-angle finder; ensure it is fungus-free!

It is a risk you will have to take; I understand. It was costly enough way back when I had my P67 shipped from the USA!

The P67 has a 5-stop range TTL meter (–2.5 / Zero / +2.5) which will give reliable results even with finicky transparency film, where the margin for error is far less generous than negative stock. The Pentax 67 TTL meter, of which plenty are available, including NIB (but again, really, really check this is true if you find one), is a better buy than the ancient Pentax 6x7, or even more archaic Asahi-Pentax 6x7 prisms. The important thing to watch out for is that the meter has not sustained obvious heavy damage (dents, fractures, prolific brassing...) from e.g. persistent knocking about. Your, but preferably the seller, needs to ensure the meter moves rapidly with a changing of aperature and/or shutter speed — with no stalling, flutter, over- or under tops and drops.

All of the TTL meters present the same truncated (95%) view of the scene; alternative finders like the waist-level or chimney finder (with dioptric correction and eyecup) provide for 100% view coverage. Either/both would be used with a separate hand-held meter, remembering of course the P67 only ticks down down to 1 second, after which you have take over (Bulb is what I use a lot of the time). Almost all of my photography is way beyond 1 second (metered with a Sekonic L7585D multispot). Re-calibration of TTL meters (or any meter, even the gas or electricity meter...) is not in my league, but is possible by those with appropriate skills and parallel testing facilities that confirm the meter is measuring correctly.

The native P67 focusing screen can be a bummer in low light; it is grainy and coarse, but not insurmountable. A retinue of tools to fall back on are essential e.g. the right-angle finder (positionable at any place around its orbit), or the central-spot area finder — a somewhat mischievous metal attachment good at bruising foreheads, scratching glasses and poking eyes (I have this device too, purely as an ornament and talking piece about appalling engineering...). Years ago there was an enthusiastic push to remove the native P67 focusing screens and replace them with the much-vaunted Beattie IntenseScreens. The problem though was firstly an accurate fit in the camera and subsequent calibration (3-point focus check), and more critically, the introduction of unpredictable metering errors from the additional brightness and thickness of the screen — something I also experienced (with attendant curses and swearing) with an IntenseScreen installed in my EOS1N decades back,which really screwed the meter's understanding of light values, irrespective of CWA, Eval, Spot or Partial. Summary : AVOID.
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 01-17-2021, 09:12 PM  
Looking to join the Pentax family with a Pentax 67. Advice needed
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 48
Views: 4,062
G'day yonder Florida,

Yes and no. true and false. But I try and sway people to angle for the Pentax 67, not the earlier models. They are so very old now and frequently turn up in these forums with glitches. The definitive answer though, is how it was used early on in the piece, and how it was used subsequently. The cameras are vulnerable to niggles and faults, exacerbated by brutal handling (especially the winding mechanism), both minor and serious (sometimes requiring repairs that can defeat the purpose). Ideally, fingering a camera of your desire is better than eyeballing it on the web. I just feel, deep within me, this is the best way to do it, even though it is wholly impractical for so many.

"My eyes aren't what they used to be" Tell me about that...:lol:

If you need specific dioptric correction for the Pentax 67 (the later model is implicit in this designation, as opposed to the 1969-vintage Pentax 6x7) the right angle viewing attachment is a good option (2 available, the 6x7 and 67, one with a handy correction dial which shows just how much to or fro you have adjusted it), though of course it is fiddly and must be removed for transporting the camera. It would be like looking for teeth on a on a galah in the search of dioptric correction lenses to specifically match your eyesight deficit; all manner of experiments have been tried including swapping a Nikon F100 eyepiece. The correction I have is only approximate to my deficit; it works but I use both eyes to focus.

Both are crackers and a good pairing for starting out with the 6x7 system. If you get GAS, the penalty is an ever-increasing gain in portly weight. The camera stuff, I mean. ;)

The 45mm, (82mm filter) if it matters, has a seldom-seen filter clasp at the rear element, in the off-chance you want to tug at the forelocks of a bygone era, and play with gelatin correction filters — those slender and occasionally delightfully gooey gelatin filters. It is a very sharp and comfortable lens to use, very well suited to the landscape genre. Slap a polariser on this pup though and you are looking at a significant impediment to focusing, especially in overcast light or low light. Back to the right-angle finder to get around this annoyance.:)

I do not have the 105mm as the f/ length does not work in my scheme. The SMC Pentax 67-designated lenses will not have yellow-tint (aka Thorium, much loved as a dinner table ping-pong game discussing the perils of deadly radiation poisoning, when a poorly-cooked chicken will more likely poison you and much more quickly...). Be very careful and establish clear and unambigious lines of communication with sellers in Japan. Descriptions are often of the cut-and-paste variety shared amongst a cohort of dealers big and small, never really customised in minutiae for specific listings, so it is very much a case of 'buyer beware'. Ensure you have the option for return of the camera and the seller carries responsibility for the costs of doing so, especially where a fault exists and that fault would have been obvious to the seller. Returning cameras from distant countries to Japan is not at all cheap or economical.
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 01-17-2021, 05:33 PM  
6x7 - film advance lever is stuck and the shutter depresses with no effect
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 5
Views: 1,622
My first observation is the age of this camera — and it is very old, could unfortunately well be playing into a fault in the winding mechanism. I assume at this point that you have loaded the film to the START mark at the 120 point on the film guide rail, then advanced to the point where winding becomes stiffer and finalises with the shutter being cocked and the frame counter at 1? The shutter will not fire if the film is not advanced fully to cock the shutter.

As Desertscape mentioned above, make sure the shutter speed is not set into an in-between space.

Try this: in your photo, there is a recessed button on the left of the mirror box (viewed from the front).
Fetch a toothpick (not a sharp metal object!) and depress the inner button once (or complete a full wind-on sweep). Then attempt to fire the shutter, and wind-on normally (assuming film is loaded).
This is the standard reset procedure in the event of a jam, or a dead battery interfering with mirror/shutter operation.

If this doesn't fix things...

Repair, if required, could well exceed the value/what you paid for the camera. It might then be worth considering updating to the newer Pentax 67 dawning from the last days of the 1980s to the early 1990s. I do not recommend either the Pentax 6x7 or the much earlier Asahi Pentax 6x7 because these are going on well over 50 years, have no doubt seen brutal professional service early in their time. It is absolutely essential to suss out a looked-after specimen of more recent cameras. Buying from Japan may sound economical, but the sellers are very often not particularly au fait with transliteral English responses. Be careful.
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 01-16-2021, 01:44 AM  
Problem With leaf shutter 90mm lense for p67
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 13
Views: 1,047
I have tried unsuccessfully today (while it conveniently piddles down and blows trees over; geez, so windy even the magpies are walking...) to look for a tidbit of information in my archives that mention the requirement for either/both LS lenses to be mounted on the camera to facilitate a rounded earthing of the circuit. This information was given to me from the seller from whom I purchased my 165mm LS lens years ago. Anyway... a test should, very much, be undertaken with a roll of film -- any roll of film you an find, and it need only cost a buck and a half (at least from a memory long ago...). The Pentax 6x7 / 67 must have film loaded for the system to be in operational mode, save for the sly bypass method that people use to suspiciously eyeball the shutter in action; you no doubt know this from experience, but it struck me as odd you are 'testing' the lens while it is detached from the camera.

If no high speed sync is required with LS inactive, the flash sync cord can be connected to the X socket on the camera, and LS mode turned off on the lens so there is no misunderstanding (by the camera, not you!). Connecting the sync cord to the X socket on the camera while LS is active will fire the flash but not sync with the leaf shutter.

I still think there is an anomaly with the trigger voltage, or possibly a circuit fault within the LS lens (something I have never heard of, but we are scratching all scratchies here...).
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 01-14-2021, 09:36 PM  
Problem With leaf shutter 90mm lense for p67
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 13
Views: 1,047
Strobe trigger voltage may be either too low or too high. The strobes would be more modern than the Pentax 6x7 / 67 cameras, and is worth checking this point.

As a working system (LS and strobes), not a lot can go wrong connecting strobes for higher sync speeds in LS mode. If the camera-side shutter speed is set to 1/8s, LS mode is turned on, the LS shutter cocked and the strobe(s) connected and ready, it should work as intended. If not, the cable could be suspect, and/or the trigger voltage. Trying another, or a new sync cable, may help. Do the strobes fire on another camera you have without fault?
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 01-10-2021, 05:02 PM  
Pentax 67 - Meter Visibility Problem
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 5
Views: 890
Beside giving a blurry, awkward viewpoint, the absence of the knurled ring and default viewing lens shouldn't be a problem, though if it (no ring) is a permanent loss, the only improvement that can be made is to wear glasses, as I do, which effectively corrects the blur, but it remains an awkward workaround. Without the knurled ring there is an opportunity for the ingress of dust and moisture, additional to the loss of compensatory dioptric correction provided by the lens.
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 01-09-2021, 11:20 PM  
Pentax 67 - Meter Visibility Problem
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 5
Views: 890
If the camera has received a solid jolt or knock, it is possible the black metal mask in the viewfinder fascia has slipped out of place. This can also occur if the prism has been dropped (which should absolutely be avoided, but is unfortunately very commonly seen). This would require disassembly of the TTL prism to access the viewfinder area and reset the mask to the correct position. As an experiment, and ensuring the prism if firmly mounted with no danger of coming off, hold the camera upside down and carefully shake it; if this action shows movement of the meter mask, that is what requires looking at.

The TTL meter pins shown in your photo do not appear to be seated fully. Has the foam baffle on the underside of the TTL prism recently been replaced? This (foam baffle replacement) can cause the meter pins to 'ride' higher and not provide contact. Correctly seated, only a very, very small amount of both pins is visible (see comparison pic). Also, check that the fascia holding down the focusing screen is fully screwed down. This should be done very carefully as on the older 6x7 cameras these screws are also used to calibrate the focus at 3 points around the central viewfinder (done after assembly of another focusing screen, or removal/reassembly of the lens mount flange).

Forum: Pentax Medium Format 01-08-2021, 09:15 PM  
Using Pentax 67 and npc polaroid packs,is there any film to replace FujiFilm fp-100c?
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 6
Views: 2,706
The Polaroid instant back may be removable using the standard factory back removal pin that is visible on the far left of the first picture of the camera, then using the standard back release nib as you would for a normal back. If you are not confident in attempting removal, do not proceed.

The Impossible Project had plans to resurrect a substitute Polaroid instant film, but I am unsure whether this was made specifically for the instant cameras they were marketing, or available separately on the wider market.

If you do not have the normal back for the Pentax 67 camera, it is best that you leave the Polaroid back in place and substitute the entire camera for another without the instant film back in place.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 12-21-2020, 10:45 PM  
Pentax k1000 damaged front plate
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 17
Views: 1,144
In the great Australian vernacular—

You've bloody well buggered it, mate!

Then refer to what Mark J. said...;)
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 12-21-2020, 10:31 PM  
Can Anyone Help Me Pick The Next Lens For My Pentax 67II?
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 22
Views: 2,148
Can't see the value or logic on being weighed down with a 20kg of one camera and more than 4 lenses. Concentrated, genre-specific photography doesn't support the perceived need for more and more lenses over what is automatically chosen by instinct based on long experience.

I would go for the SMC Pentax 67 45mm f4 over the earlier 6x7, but that's me, with a known aversion to "old" lenses!
Some people describe the 45mm as having a wide variation in sharpness. I have not seen that borne out in my images (mostly shot around f8-f13), nor those of colleagues, so...

Ditch the 55-100 zoom, maybe swap for either 55mm f4 (near-duplicate to the 45mm f4, so it value questionable -- see comment below, too), or—

Buy into the 75mm f2.8AL with its many niceties (spring-loaded aperture, feather-touch focus, very sharp and contrasty glass) and very bright viewfinder — but you'll pay dearly for it. They days of finding this lens for sub-$1,000 are long gone. They are now fetching $3,000 to $4,000-plus. The jump from 45mm to 75mm makes more sense than 45mm to 55mm!

Shift-only lenses are an historical anachronism, seriously tragic without a corresponding planar tilt, even for architecture e.g. look at Canon's TS-E lenses — each can be modified to have tilt/shift on the same plane or opposing planes (very useful, and this is how my two TS-E lenses were modified by Canon, with shift and tilt on the same plane so corrections applied mimic those that are applied in larger formats, but in smaller movements).

Swap out the 90-180 zoom for the 90mm f2.8 lens — a worthy "little brother" to the 75AL, and just as bright.
No deal for either the 165mm LS or the 90mm LS unless high-sync strobing is your go.

A few words about the 55mm f4
I felt this lens was "iffy" from the get-go. That said, it is exceptionally sharp with balanced contrast. Several of my very best photographs were produced with this lens (one below) and that photograph is still in high demand). It is heavy and, particularly suffers from an annoying rattle that many users have reported. The specimen I had was fine for a year or so, then that rattle developed, and then stiffness of the focusing ring.

The 45mm f4 filled the void nicely, and is a fav go-to lens along with the 75AL.

• Photo: Rise of the Belt of Venus, Lake Bonney, Barmera, South Australia 2012 (55mm f4, multispot metered).
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 12-16-2020, 08:03 PM  
165 LS Firing Intermittently
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 18
Views: 923
Heads up to a point box in the Pentax 67 SMC Pentax 67 LS 165mm f4 lens (page 4, document 01-8709):

In this mode [(LS)] you cannot take flash photos with the flash's sync cord connected with the camera's X-sync socket.

Suggest that, in effect, the strobes should be connected to the port on the LS lens when in LS mode.
Search took 0.02 seconds | Showing results 1 to 25 of 300

Forum Jump

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:50 PM. | See also:, part of our network of photo forums!
  • Red (Default)
  • Green
  • Gray
  • Dark
  • Dark Yellow
  • Dark Blue
  • Old Red
  • Old Green
  • Old Gray
  • Dial-Up Style
Hello! It's great to see you back on the forum! Have you considered joining the community?
Creating a FREE ACCOUNT takes under a minute, removes ads, and lets you post! [Dismiss]