How to Evaluate and Test a Legacy Camera

Bonus Tips

For those of you still reading, these bonus tips relate to specific camera types.

Mechanical SLRs (1955 to 1980)

For buying a Pentax body, you'll be buying a camera that likely fits into this category. For more information on specific Pentax bodies, the Pentax Forums User Camera Reviews section contains the unfiltered thoughts and experiences of hundreds of Pentax users. In addition, each camera's page has a biographical data table that will help you get to know your camera more fully.

Lenses

Know your lens mount and what lenses are available. If you don't have any lenses, pick up a 50mm or similar with your camera to get started and to learn the camera with.

Straps

Get a strap suitable for carrying the weight. A LOT of good custom strap websites exist (and of course if you pick up your camera from B&H or Adorama you can buy a strap there and have it arrive at the same time.) For a standard SLR, look at 1.0-to-1.5-inch-thick straps. For medium-format cameras, look at two-inch-thick straps with leather backing or up-cycled seat belts. Old cameras are much heavier than new ones and you will want to spread their weight across your neck and shoulders.

Light Meters

Old light meters can lose sensitivity with time. For Pentax bodies, this is most true for the 6X7 metering prism. The 35mm film bodies do not universally suffer from light meter failures in the same way.

If a light meter is off, there may be no remedy. The best solution is to buy a camera that has a good light meter. Alternately, you can compensate. If your light meter is consistently under exposing images by a stop, simply change the camera's ISO setting. This will allow the camera to meter properly at the film's rated speed.

Some old cameras used mercury cell batteries that are, in the U.S. anyway, illegal to sell and maybe even own (in some jurisdictions.) So if you buy a camera that takes one of these you'll need an adapter for a modern battery. Adapters for PX625 to A76 batteries are readily available on eBay for, at the end of 2014, anywhere from $6 to $29. Here is a link to an eBay search for these adapters. With the adapters, an A76 or LR44 battery can be used to properly meter old cameras like Nikkormats, Nikon F meter prisms, and the Canon F-1.

Tip

The Pentax Spotmatic series has a voltage adapter built into them so they can use modern batteries that replace different-voltage older models. Here are some specifics:

Camera Original Battery Replacement Battery Notes

All Spotmatics

(except the F)

PX-400 387S

Exact Fit

1.55 volts

Spotmatic F PX-625 PX-625

Same Body,

Different Voltage

Pentax K Series

Pentax M Series

A76 A76

Still Produced

LR44 Can Leak

Pentax S/H Series None None Entirely Mechanical
Pentax A, P, and MZ Various Various

Batteries are all

in Production

Table 1: Pentax Bodies and Compatible Batteries

Thank you to Photo Ethnography for the source data.

Pentax was the only camera maker to install voltage regulators in their metering systems. If you buy a non-Pentax body that requires a mercury cell battery, you will either need to perform or pay for a camera circuitry modification, adapt your camera's settings, or buy a battery adapter.

With non-Pentax bodies, the batteries only last about half as long, another drawback. The absence of a voltage regulator means that the other-makers' cameras will have variable light meter accuracy as the camera depletes the battery. After the battery is half depleted, the performance will become unreliable.

Pentax was really ahead of their time when they added the voltage regulators to their bodies!

Electronic SLRs

If the camera has an LCD, verify that it is bright, damage-free, and crisp. As LCDs age (hastened with poor storage and abuse), the liquid crystals become fuzzy. Also make sure that no black goo is errant around the edges or other locations as this can be a sign of a drop.

A motor-drive camera should sound good. You'll be looking for a camera with a motor that sounds consistent, operates smoothly, and does not have trouble functioning. Grinding, irregular motor sounds, or delays in starting are sure signs of a faulty or failing motor.

Tip

Believe it or not, older cameras are better shooters than modern, motor-driven ones. The older cameras had more metal and more robust construction, and fewer components that can fail. A newer film camera with the buttons and screens may seem like a better purchase, but it likely will not be.

Twin-lens Reflex Cameras

Pentax never made any twin lens reflex (TLR) cameras, unfortunately. I suspect that a Pentax TLR would have been an amazing instrument. If you elect to venture outside of the Pentax family and explore the myriad exciting TLR possibilities, know that there is a steep learning curve with them.

TLR cameras have typically be cared for very well because they're high-end cameras for advanced users. However, you'll still want to check the function, especially the focus alignment. With TLRs, you can verify that the viewing lens matches the focus scale in the store. The focus knob or lever should function smoothly and without difficulty, grinding, or other issues.

TLRs have leaf shutters -- shutters within the lenses themselves. Whereas SLRs are prone to shutter problems on the fast speeds, TLRs are prone to issues in the slow speeds. Slow shutters can indicate the need for a shutter overhaul, a prospect that can run from $150 to $300 at the end of 2014. So check the shutter carefully.

Also check the viewscreen brightness. Make sure it doesn't have spots or dirt. In some cameras, the viewscreen assembly comes apart easily. In complex TLRs like Zeiss, Rollei, and similar makes the assembly is complex enough to warrant a full overhaul (and associated cost) if there's an issue.

Check the lenses for signs of fungus, haze, or other lens issues. These are more likely to be a problem than a physical issue. Here's a link to a YouTube video playlist that identifies various lens defects.

Tip

Want to see if the taking lens aligns with the viewing lens? Using some frosted cellophane tape, place pieces of tape connecting the two film rollers. Don't leave any gaps. This creates a frosted screen upon which the lens can focus light. Focus the viewing screen on a point and then look at the ad hoc taking screen you just made. If they have the same object in focus, then the focus for each lens is true.

Point-and-shoots

Honestly... why? These take very sub-par photos and were cheaply made by the standards of their day. So if you want a point-n-shoot, just pick up a used digital one for $20 or use your smartphone.

Tip

Avoiding point and shoot cameras will help prevent you from buying a 110 or disc camera, both obsolete film formats.

Large Format

For lenses, check the leaf shutters like you would a TLR. You also need to check the camera bellows for light leaks. This can be done by covering the film back end with a film holder and looking through the lens board mount, trying your best to keep light from getting in around your head. Ideally, you could do this in a dark room with a flashlight.

Check for the camera standards' movement and how well they do or don't move. Standards should move freely and lock in place easily. They should also not slide out of the position you set them in.

Try mounting the large format camera on a tripod to make sure that it mounts. Not all mount without adapter plates and not all have the smaller, common 1/4-20 tripod bushing.

Extreme Legacy (e.g., Box, Folding)

For box cameras, check that the cardboard is not warped. Also look through the red window to see if it has a partially exposed roll of film or film spools (which are useful for re-spooling modern films for your box camera). Check the shutter's operation, though typically these only fail if they've rusted shut. Box cameras function in a highly variable manner and should be for fun or decoration. I have taken some nice shots with box cameras and they can still take good shots, but they are, by today's standards, of limited flexibility.

For folding cameras, check the bellows for light leaks in the same way as for large format (except here by opening the back of the camera.) If the camera has old film in it, don't open it. Old film is great to develop or sell on eBay.

Check folding cover operation and smoothness, ensure the bellows are supple and not crackly or stiff, check the leaf shutter for operation, check leather or leatherette for wear, dryness, and signs of re-gluing. Folding cameras have some of the nicest lenses made in their time. In fact, models like the Kodak Retina II and Voigtlander Perkeo take photos of the same quality as modern lenses.

Tip

The best box cameras out there are the Kodak Brownie Number 3. Covering their red windows allows a 4X5 film sheet to be placed inside. The results are usable and, sometimes, surprisingly good.


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