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Showing all 70 reviews by dme

Review of: Tamron Adaptall Z500/CZ500 200-500mm F6.9 by dme on Mon June 3, 2019 | Rating: 7 View more reviews 
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Views: 15658
Reviews: 2
Another one for the Adaptall collection. The JCII sticker indicates it was made in 1975. This makes it a Z-500. The rubber has all perished and gone, and there is a lot of difficult-to-access fungus. Based on the fungus extent, and the impact of cleaning the fungus off other lenses, I believe it is severely affecting the image quality, especially the contrast, and to a lesser extent the resolution. Catch-In-Focus doesn't work presumably because the camera never recognises the image is in focus. Nevertheless, at f11 I'm getting lens resolution comparable with my Sigma 70-300mm f4-5.6 DG and my Tamron Mirror 500mm 55BB; there's just a bit more fringing. At F6.9 there is A LOT of red fringing. The weight makes it rock solid on my tripod. It's much less affected by vibration than the mirror 55BB. Whilst in its current state my copy isn't recommended, I think a clean copy would be good. 1.0.0.20

Review of: Tamron Adaptall-2 SP LD BBAR MC (30A) 80-200mm F2.8 by dme on Mon June 18, 2018 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Views: 52652
Reviews: 14
Adaptall lenses aren't getting any younger, and I sense that ratings on this site reflect this; more recent reviews tend to be more critical. I wouldn't have bought this lens were I not on a mission to collect Adaptalls, and were I not concerned to plug the collection gap, I wouldn't have touched it in the condition it is in. Mechanically, it feels loose, and the zoom creeps. Optically, there are a couple of dead insects floating around inside, and masses of fungus. I got the fungus off the first 3 elements, at the cost of putting a nick in the edge of the front element as I struggled to unscrew its retaining ring, but there is plenty more fungus to deal with. I wasn't keen to inflict further damage, so I contacted the UK Tamron Agent about servicing it, but received this response. "Unfortunately for that model of lens we do not supply spare parts anymore and (it) would be unfair for you to send it in for us to examine. Apologies as I know this isn’t the answer you were looking for." Nevertheless, the images stand comparison with those from my Tamron Adaptall SP 19AH. Wide open the 30A exhibits a glow-iness (spherical aberration), there is purple fringing at high contrast image boundaries and the fungus contributes veiling flare, but there seems to be just as much detail as with the 19AH, and at f8 the 30A exhibits fractionally more detail than the 19AH. I like the 30A's metal hood as well; the 19AH's plastic hood feels flimsy in comparison. I love the brightness of the viewfinder using the 30A. But mostly, I prefer the pictures taken with my (pristine) 19AH; the combination of colour and contrast out of the camera just seems aesthetically more pleasing. The Tamron 1.4x Teleconverter 014F works with the 30A, it doesn't with the 19AH, and the Pentax AFA 1.7x also works well. But contrast is even more lacking with my copy of the 30A. The lens is heavy, but that is to be expected of an f2.8 80-200mm zoom; I don't find it unmanageable. So on the plus side, the bokeh is lovely and smooth, the lens is f2.8, the images in the viewfinder snap in to focus, even with the mechanical limitations of my copy, and the wide open images are usable, though unless I'm using a tripod the wafer thin depth of field can lead to swaying backwards or forwards causing focus to be missed. But with my copies, unless I really need f2.8, I'm going to be using the 19AH, which although a bit slower, focuses closer, and is much easier to handle.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall (CZ-735) 70-350mm F4.5 by dme on Sun May 6, 2018 | Rating: 9 View more reviews 
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Views: 20805
Reviews: 4
My copy of the CZ-735 dates from July 1976, which makes it an early one; the lettering is red rather than the orange in the picture above. It can't have seen much use in the intervening decades. The screw-in 82mm aluminium lens cap is a pain. When I bought the lens, (from an on-line photo store) the thread was crossed, and the front group unscrewed as I struggled to remove it. I find it difficult to use this lens hand-held. Up to a point, a bit of heft helps to hold a lens steady, but the CZ-735 is too much of a good thing. However, on a sturdy tripod, and with a focus magnifier, its handling is exemplary; the zoom and focus controls are silky smooth, and the focus throw (180°) coupled with the size of the barrel makes it easy to achieve precise focus if the subject will obligingly stay put. In sharpness and contrast at f8, the CZ-735 appears to be capable of out-performing all my other (admittedly bargain) zooms that cover this range, in particular the Sigma 70-300 f4-5.6 Apochromatic and the Pentax FA 100-300 f4.8-5.7. The Tamron's colours are not as rich as the autofocus zooms, but they seem more natural. The lens has an Auto/Manual switch, so it can be used in Av mode by flicking the switch just before taking the picture. However, on my Samsung GX-20 using a Tamron PK-M adapter the resulting images were over-exposed by more than 3 stops (e.g. 1/25 of a second when the correct exposure was 1/320!). Like the Sigma, performance deteriorates as the focal length increases, following almost the same trajectory. 350 mm is noticeably inferior to 300 mm. The lens is sharp wide open, which undoubtedly helps with manual focusing. The big optical problem is purple fringing. It isn't terribly intrusive up to 100mm, but it's always there if I look for it, unless I'm stopped down to f11. However, I find f8 images consistently look better than f11, maybe because the exposure time is halved, so I sort out any f8 purple fringing in post. The purple fringing is so very pronounced whenever the lens is open wide enough open to create bokeh, I don't think anyone would want to go there. The lens is not remotely parfocal. So, we have a lens capable of producing very sharp pictures of static subjects at a distance. What's the use case? Well, I saw one being sold off recently on eBay by a Police Force that had used it for surveillance ... Why did I buy it? Mainly because it is one more Adaptall, but I had cherished a hope that it might pair well with my Pentax AFA 1.7x, and I have not been disappointed. I had found before that the AFA 1.7x plays better with the older Adaptalls than the more recent ones, and this example has exceeded my expectations. The AFA 1.7x reduces the contrast, and when I use the AFA 1.7x to produce the same focal lengths as the CZ-735 can produce by itself, a certain amount of image degradation is apparent, but the AFA 1.7x appears to suppress the fringing quite markedly, and I can discern more detail in the 350mm + 1.7x AFA combination than I can see at 350mm, or with the Tamron 500mm f8 mirror. At 500 mm, the Tamron 500 mm Mirror shows better contrast, and is absolutely fringe free, but I don't discern more detail in the mirror lens images. The AFA 1.7x requires that the lens be pre-focused manually. Conveniently, its automatic range can encompass the parfocal differences. As someone else has noted, the CZ-735 works well with the Tamron 01F 2x Teleconverter. Usually I find that the Tamron 014F 2x Teleconverter works better than the Pentax AFA 1.7x, but that did not seem to be the case with this lens. Perhaps for the CZ-735 a loss of contrast from the teleconverter helps overall. Usable autofocus images from 120mm to 600mm, f7.65, for less than $200 (accounting for what I paid for the AFA 1.7x); I'm happy with that, so I'll give the CZ-735 a 9. I wouldn't have scored it so highly if I didn't already own the Pentax AFA 1.7x; it's just so unwieldy. As it is, it remains to be seen how often it gets an outing.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall ( adaptamatic ) Z-220 (?PZ 370) 70-220mm F3.8 by dme on Sun January 21, 2018 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Views: 9790
Reviews: 1
Another Adaptall crossed off my list. Mine is black, and the leatherette rubber focus and zoom rings have perished and gone, sadly a characteristic feature of the pre-Adaptall-2/SP Adaptalls. However, the optics are clear, and the mechanics are smooth. It feels very nicely balanced on the camera. I took a few shots in the back garden with this, which I will term the Z-220, the 58A 70-210mm f4-5.6, the 46A 70-210mm f3.8-4, the 23A 60-300mm f3.8-5.4 and a couple of Pentax AF lenses for comparison, the F 35-105mm f4-5.6 and the FA 100-300mm f4.7-5.8, and offer the following thoughts. All the Adaptall images have a similar feel, with subdued colours compared to the Pentax lenses. Wide open, the Z-220 is the weakest of these Adaptalls, and pixel-peeping reveals a glowy look, but the differences aren't vast. The 58A is very similar. The 23A is better, and the 46A is better still. At f8, the Z-220 surpasses the 58A, and almost matches the 23A. The 46A is still the best. The most striking difference between the Pentax lenses and the Adaptalls is the colour. The Pentax colours are luscious by comparison. In terms of sharpness, the Pentax F 35-100mm f4-5.6 is better than any of the Adaptalls at 70mm, whilst the 46A and the Pentax FA 100-300mm f4.7-5.6 are similar. However, if you are looking for the effect of shooting with a 45 year old zoom lens, the Z-220 does not disappoint.
  • It is miles better than my contemporaneous Sigma XQ zoom.
  • It handles beautifully
  • It boasts constant aperture
  • As with all pre-Adaptall-2/SP Adaptalls, it has an A/M switch making Av shooting easy with a Pentax DSLR.
So I'm going to give it an 8.

Review of: Tamron AF XR Di II LD Aspherical IF Macro 18-200mm F3.5-6.3 by dme on Sun October 22, 2017 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Views: 134912
Reviews: 32
I found this in a charity shop. It has obviously been used, and at some point it had lost a small piece off the mount that serves to keep out dust, but since I wiped its terminals with a lens cloth it has functioned perfectly. The autofocus is accurate at the 80-200mm focal lengths. At short focal lengths (18 to 40 or so) I have to be careful to ensure that it hasn't locked on to the background. Handling is similar to that of the Tamron 17-50mm f2.8, whose form it closely resembles; good. I found that:
  1. Between 18 and 50 mm the images are obviously inferior to those from the Tamron 17-50mm f2.8; there's less detail
  2. Between 18 and 55 mm the images are hard to distinguish from the Pentax 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 DAL-WR
  3. Between 80 and 200 mm the images are hard to distinguish from the Pentax FA 80-200 mm 4.7-5.6, though the Tamron is about 1/2 a stop slower. (The Pentax lens is rated 5.6 on this site, rather poor, but the optically identical Pentax F 80-200mm f4.7-5.6 is rated 8.17, and I think my copy is good)
  4. The images were sharper, showed more detail, and had fewer aberrations than those I could get from a beautiful-looking Super-Takumar 150mm f4 prime that the shop also had for sale.
  5. To my utter amazement, it autofocuses with the Kenko Teleplus/Tamron-F MC4 Pz-AF DG 2x teleconverter at all focal lengths if the target is contrast-y. The conclusion I have come to is that the MC4 works well with Internal Focus lenses. So my conclusion is, the lens is optically equivalent to kit lenses. It isn't an upgrade, but it can save on baggage and lens changes. So good for walking around, street photography and should you need to travel light.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall-2 SP Mirror (55BB) 500mm F8 by dme on Sat October 21, 2017 | Rating: 9 View more reviews 
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Views: 109312
Reviews: 32
I bought this lens to fill a gap in my Adaptall collection. I didn't think I needed it, because I was happy with the Samyang 500mm f6.3. I bought my 55BB eBay. The low price is indicative of the fungus infestation that was clearly visible in the item photos. However, even with the fungus, it was obvious as soon as I looked through the viewfinder that the lens had potential, and it turned out to be fairly easy to clean it up. The distance scale is held on with 6 grub screws. If you undo these, the scale can be slid towards the mount, exposing the screws that hold the stop on the top half of the lens. Undo these, and the the front section of the lens can be unscrewed. Mark where the two halves separate so you can start the reassembly at the right point. The cleaning (inside and outside the front element, and the glass over the main mirror), is simple in theory, if tedious. Xylene (paint thinner) seems to be poisonous to lens fungus, it removes organic non-ionic material, and dries streak-free. Unfortunately it doesn't remove ionic material. Distilled water removes ionic material, but not grease. Alternating between the two I gradually ended up with bright clean streak-free scratch-free lens surfaces. Reassembly was then the disassembly process in reverse. As long as you start the screw-in process from the right point, it all just works. In addition to his review of this Tamron lens in comparison with a Canon non-mirror lens referenced above, Bob Atkins has this excellent review of the Samyang 500mm f6.3, which also refers to this Tamron. http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/reviews/pro_optic_500_f6-3.html The Tamron:
  1. Is smaller
  2. Is the same effective speed as the Samyang
  3. Has a larger depth of field
  4. Has slightly better sharpness
  5. Has much better contrast
  6. Hand held I'm hard to pressed to see evidence of point 4, and shooting raw and boosting contrast my pictures from the two lenses become virtually indistinguishable, but points 3 and 5 translate to easier manual focusing of the Tamron. I have one other mirror lens, the Tokina 500mm f8. This is the smallest, and mechanically the nicest of the three, but it is slower, and not as sharp as the Tamron; it is similar to the Samyang. The Tamron has one further advantage over the both the Tokina and the Samyang. All Pentax-K Adaptall mounts have (non-functional for this lens) aperture levers. This means that, unlike the other two mirror lenses I have used, Catch-In-Focus and the Pentax-F Autofocus adapter do work with this lens if the light is good enough and there is sufficient contrast in the target. All in all a really nice piece of kit. Recommended.

Review of: Sigma APO Macro Super "goldline" 70-300mm F4-5.6 by dme on Sun July 30, 2017 | Rating: 9 View more reviews 
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Views: 43059
Reviews: 7
This lens was a purchase prompted by curiosity, the perceived value and LBA, since I already own the Sigma 70-300mm f4-5.6 DG, the Pentax 100-300 F f4.5-5.6 and the Pentax FA 100-300mm f4.7-5.8. My copy of the APO looks to be in mint condition. My 70-300mm DG Macro is the next iteration of the non-APO version, but I have also used my son's Sigma 70-300mm f4-5.6 DL Macro, which is contemporaneous with this APO lens and which produces very similar images to those from my DG. http://www.digitalsecrets.net/secrets/Photos_4_web/Sigma70-300mtf.jpgThis is chart for the DG. And this is the MTF chart for the APO. http://www.digitalsecrets.net/secrets/Photos_4_web/Sigma70-300APOmtf.jpg The white zones are APS-C, the grey areas are Full-frame. It can be seen that there is very little difference between them in the APS-C zone. And this is my experience. Using APS-C DSLR cameras I can see by eye virtually no difference between pictures taken with the two Sigma lenses, but the APO JPEG's always come out slightly larger, suggesting that there is more detail in there somewhere. The newer DG non-APO handles better. The macro is more flexible (deployable between 200-300 rather than merely at 300) and subtle improvements to the bayonet of the plastic hood stop it being fiddly. Whilst I cannot claim that my comparisons are very scientific, they always have the same outcome. At 300mm, my Pentax FA f4.7-5.8 100-300mm is the best, followed closely by the Sigma APO, and the Sigma DG. At 100mm, the Sigmas are better. The cross-over is somewhere between 150 and 200mm. The differences are slight. My Pentax F 100-300mm gives inferior results at all focal lengths. The fact that it works the best with teleconverters suggests that it ought to be able to do better, but it seems to be let down by its autofocus inaccuracy. Since it doesn't consistently forward or back focus there isn't anything I can do about it short of focusing manually. I've tried the APO with MC4 and MC7 2x autofocus teleconverters. The results were the same as with the DG; it won't autofocus with a 2x teleconverter beyond 200mm So, to conclude, I think this APO is an excellent bargain basement tele-zoom, which I have given 9 to, but I wouldn't pay a premium to have it instead of a non-APO Sigma tele-zoom.

Review of: Tokina TM500/RMC Mirror Lens 500mm F8 by dme on Fri June 16, 2017 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Views: 77355
Reviews: 10
I already owned the Samyang 500mm f6.3, which is really excellent, so the only reason to buy this was curiosity. The Tokina appears to have a built-in Pentax mount rather than an exchangeable T2 mount, so it isn't as flexible as the Samyang in this regard. Because the Samyang is half a stop faster, it is more easily focused, and less prone to camera shake. Hand-held my shots with the Samyang are slightly sharper, but the differences are slight. The Tokina must have a greater depth of field, but I can't say I notice. The Samyang doesn't weigh much, but it is bulky; there's a 95mm front element. Next to it, the Tokina is tiny. The design of the Tokina hood is brilliant. It stows backwards over the lens and screws in, and was sold with the lens. The Samyang lens hood had to be purchased separately, and just isn't as neat. Both lenses need their hoods. The Tokina comes with a set of filters which screw in the back; a UV and some ND filters. On inspection, it appears that filters could similarly be fitted to the Samyang, but it takes a different size. Everything about the Tokina screams quality. For me, the half stop speed advantage enjoyed by the Samyang (that my cameras treat as a whole stop, leading to increased darkness for the Samyang image) gives the Samyang the edge, but the Tokina is a nicer object aesthetically speaking and far less bulky. It's recommended. UPDATE I've now acquired a Tamron SP 500mm f8 55BB as well. This lens is not as compact as the Tokina, but it is smaller than the Samyang, as fast as the Samyang, superior to the Samyang, and due to the aperture lever on the Adaptall PK mounts can make use of Catch-In-Focus and the Pentax F 1.7x Autofocus Adapter. So I have to say, if you have the choice, go for the Tamron every time. But the Tokina (and the Samyang) aren't by any means bad.

Review of: Sigma UC 24-70mm F3.5-5.6 by dme on Fri June 16, 2017 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Views: 41758
Reviews: 6
24mm-70mm is a more flexible range on an APS-C D-SLR than the usual 28mm or 35mm to whatever, so at the very low price I thought to try it out. With the sun nowhere near the frame, a deep hood, and stopped down to f8, this lens loses nothing to my Tamron 17mm-50mm f2.8. It's excellent. However, the native hood is sized for a full-frame camera at 24mm, and offers little protection when the sun is in front of you. The images out of the camera look foggy. A screw-in rubber hood for a 35mm full-frame lens helps. I took it out with a Sigma 70-300mm f4-5.6 APO on a walk round Greenwich Park. The pictures from the 70-300mm at 70mm were in a different league most of the time. I'm giving it an 8 because under favourable circumstances it is excellent, but its limitations are such that I can't see myself using it much.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall 140F 1.4X TC by dme on Fri May 27, 2016 | Rating: 9 View more reviews 
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Views: 24339
Reviews: 7
My copy of this is not quite perfect. I cleaned a blob of muck off the rear element that turned out to have been placed deliberately to cover some tiny scratches, but I don't think they can be greatly affecting the image quality. I find that with the lenses that it is compatible with, targets snap in to focus, and there seems to be less purple fringing than there is without it. The 140F is compatible with many, but not all the Adaptall lenses I have tried. It works with all the Adaptall 1 long primes I have tried:
  • 135mm f2.8
  • 200mm f3.5
  • 300mm f5.6 (both versions)
It works with the following Adaptall 1 zooms I have tried:
  • 80-250mm (all three versions)
  • 85-210mm
  • 70-150mm
  • 70-350mm
It works with all the Adaptall 2 long primes I have tried:
  • 72B (90mm f2.8)
  • 01B (135mm f2.5)
  • 02B (200mm f3.5)
  • 54B (300mm f5.6)
  • 55BB (500mm f8 mirror)
It works with the following Adaptall 2 long zooms I have tried:
  • 02A (70-150mm f3.5) (this is a tight squeeze)
  • 23A (60-300mm f3.8-5.4)
  • 104A (75-250mm f3.8-4.5)
It does not work with:
  • 03A (80-210mm f3.8-4)
  • 04A (75-250mm f3.8-4.5)
  • 46A (70-210mm f3.8-4)
  • 103A (80-210mm f3.8-4)
  • 19AH (70-210mm f3.5)
On these, the rear lens group snags. I did a simple comparison between:
  1. 02B + 140F (200mm f3.5 plus TC)
  2. 54B (300mm f5.6 prime)
  3. CZ250 + 140F (80-250mm f3.8-4.5 Adaptall 1 zoom plus TC)
  4. My target was an azalea bush about 10m away. By eye, I couldn't discern any difference between the 200mm plus TC image and the 300mm prime image, although the 300mm prime lens JPEG was 3 percent larger. I could possibly see a difference with the zoom; the JPEG was 3 percent smaller. Overall, I think it is excellent. I give it 9.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall (Model CZ-825) 80-250mm F3.8-4.5 by dme on Wed June 24, 2015 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Views: 8531
Reviews: 1
I picked this up on eBay, £9.99 including postage (< $16). It's the first one of these I've ever seen. Physically, it closely resembles the later macro version, the QZ250M but it is:
  • 2 gm lighter
  • 2 mm longer
So you get a slightly deeper sliding hood with the CZ825! More seriously, the optics seem to be different, because although both lenses are 13 elements in 10 groups, the distance from the filter thread to the the front element is exactly the same for the CZ825 and the QZ250M, and the CZ825 is longer. I took the CZ825 into the garden and compared it to the Tamron 104A 75-250mm f3.8-4.5 (the last of the Adaptall 75-250mm lenses), and the QZ250M 80-250mm f3.8-4.5 Macro. To my surprise, although the handling is identical to the QZ250M two touch zoom, and is exemplary, the output from this lens more closely resembled the pictures taken with the one-touch 104A. Shooting wide open, the 104A captured a little more detail at every focal length compared to the CZ825, but I preferred the images captured by the CZ825. At most of the high contrast slightly out of focus boundaries where the 104A gave me a coloured fringe, the CZ825M gave me a 'bloom', the colour of the brighter side of the boundary. I think this will work well for portraits. In terms of sharpness wide open, the QZ250M was the best at 200mm and 250mm, but at the shorter focal lengths the CZ825 did better than the QZ250M, and I preferred the colour from the CZ825 at all focal lengths. The bokeh for the CZ825 was similar to the others; pleasing in these cases, though the fussiness is there. Stopped down to f8, all the Adaptall (75,80)-250mm lenses are decently sharp at all focal lengths, even the ancient monster Z250. Tamron claim better than 60 lines per millimetre for this one, and I have no reason to doubt them. I only bought the CZ825 to plug the gap in my collection, but I think it will get more use than I had expected when I bought it. It works well with the Pentax 1.7x AF converter. My garden offers opportunities for snapping planes in flight rather than birds, but this combination worked well for planes; I'm looking forward to trying it on birds. I'll rate it the same as the QZ250M, 8.

Review of: Carl Zeiss Flektogon MC 35mm F2.4 by dme on Fri April 17, 2015 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Views: 184245
Reviews: 18
Mine is the 'electric' version. The extra contacts on the base don't affect its use with an M42-K adapter and a DSLR. I bought it from a Camera Shop for £15. My motivation was partly the speed (its quoted f2.4 being faster than my f2.5 Tokina-made Vivitar TX) and partly the price, since I have seen these go for around £100 on e-Bay. The speed is honest; it is faster than the lenses I have compared it with:
  • Vivitar 35mm f2.5 TX
  • Cosina 35mm f2.8
  • Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 AF
roughly in line with the manufacturers' claims. Wide open, the Flektogon is the least sharp, then the Tamron, the Cosina, the Vivitar TX being the sharpest. The Tamron and the Cosina show no CA, the Flektogon a little, which reduces as you stop down, and the Vivitar lots, though it is easily dealt with. The Flektogon is really good close up, with beautifully smooth bokeh and lovely colours. There is a 3D quality to my flower images. At longer distances and stopped down to f8, the pictures are pleasing, with slightly muted yet attractive colours. Stopped down to f5.6, the Flektogon overtakes the Vivitar, and whilst the Cosina is always sharper, I prefer the Flektogon. However, stopped down the Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 AF is in a different class; more detail, more contrast, more saturated colours. It's not to say that the Flektogon isn't good. But I always prefer the Tamron in pictures where the superior bokeh of the Flektogon is not apparent. Manual focus is O.K., but nothing special. The Flektogon is better than the Cosina, which is kind-of sticky, but the Vivitar TX feels much nicer than either. The A/M switch on the Flektogon makes Aperture Priority possible on a DSLR. Flare hasn't been a problem; I always use a hood. For family snapping indoors in available light, I prefer the Kiron-made Vivitar 28mm f2; it is sharper wide open, faster, and has a bit of extra width. For £15, the lens is good value, and I find f2.4 versus f2.8 a useful boost in speed. But £100 plus? For that you should be able to get the Pentax DA35 f2.4, brand new. The Flektogon will produce images with a distinctive feel, but for me, £100 is too much to pay for its quirkiness. UPDATE: Well, I bought the DA35 f2.4, and confess to being very disappointed in it. The autofocus preferred to focus on the background than figures in the foreground, and I just like the images from the Flektogon better. And so do the people being photographed. Having slipped on a Scottish rock and decapitated my Tamron 17-50mm, this is now my go-to lens for taking pictures at weddings in churches. 1.0.0.20

Review of: Tamron Adaptall ( Chinon ) ( CT-300) 300mm F5.6 by dme on Sat January 31, 2015 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Reviews: 8
I have three Adaptall 300mm f5.6 lenses; the original version, believed to be a remount of the earlier Adaptamatic, the well-regarded SP 54B, and this CT-300. They are all decent. I find the original version, which has the longest focus throw, is the easiest to focus. I find my CT-300 to be the sharpest of my three, and it seems to show less fringing, though since the fringing is most pronounced in the out of focus areas, this may owe something to having nailed the focus on the sharpest shots. The SP 54B has a close focus ability that the others do not; brilliant for small garden birds in a small garden. My Tair-3 300mm f4.5 is sharper than any of the Tamrons, and indeed sharper than anything else I have that covers 300mm, leastways I can discern more detail, but the Tair is huge and heavy, and the Tair's contrast out of the camera is inferior; it needs to be boosted in PP to show to advantage. I wouldn't want to sell the Tair short, though. It handles well-enough on the camera. It just takes up an inordinate amount of space in the camera bag. All the Tamrons autofocus with the Pentax 1.7x AF on a sunny day, but I haven't been able to capture birds in flight; the combination locks on too slowly. The Tair, lacking an aperture lever, does not autofocus with the Pentax 1.7x AF at all, even though I have replaced the M42 with a PK T2 mount. Wide open, the Tamrons are much superior to the Revuenon (Tele-ennalyt) 300mm f5.6 and an anonymous Optomax 300mm f5.5 that tempted me with the promise of a slightly faster aperture that needless to say wasn't apparent in practice. The Auto Super Travenar 300mm f4.5 is as good, but that's another good-handling but weighty monster, slightly inferior to the Tair, and stuck with an M42 mount. f5.6 is no faster than a consumer zoom, and ostensibly slower than the Tamron 23A 60-300mm f3.8-5.4. However:
  • None of my to-300 zooms actually quite get there; they're 290mm or thereabouts.
  • When shooting the AF zooms with AF, the MF Tamrons give sharper results. I don't think it is forward or back focus; I just never know precisely what they've decided to lock on to.
  • Tweaking the AF zooms' focus manually, I can get comparable images, but the Tamrons are more easily focused accurately manually than my AF zooms (Pentax F 100-300 f4.5-5.8, Pentax FA 100-300 f4.7-5.8, Sigma 70-300mm f4-5.6 DG (non-APO))
  • All these lenses yield subtly different colours. I especially liked the CT-300 on autumn leaves, whilst the 54B excelled at the seaside.
Ramble, ramble. Anyway, recommended!

Review of: Tamron Adaptall ( Chinon ) (CT-200) 200mm F3.5 by dme on Sat January 31, 2015 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Views: 48558
Reviews: 4
This is my most-used 200mm prime lens for one reason alone. Whilst nominally f3.5, comparisons with my other respectable 200mm f3.5 lenses (the Tamron 04B, the Vivitar (Komine), the Chinon and the Vivitar TX (Tokina)) suggest that the CT-200 is appreciably faster. So it comes with me to school plays and concerts together with the Pentax-M 50mm f1.4 and the Tamron 03B 135mm f2.5. As an illustration, in Marcus's Tamron 200mm comparison, http://forum.mflenses.com/adaptall-200mm-s-which-one-if-any-is-the-best-t66125,highlight,%2Badaptall+%2B200.html the CT-200 f3.5 cat crop is practically blown on the right hand side. The contrast is low wide open, and out of the camera colours appear muted in comparison especially with the Pentax-M 50mm f1.4 shot wide open at the same events. But if I manage to hold the camera steady enough, I am happy with the results. At smaller apertures, everything improves as you'd expect, but at f8 I have zooms, autofocus and otherwise, that are just as good. I'm unlikely ever to own a 200mm-f2.8-capable lens of any description, but I don't know that I would prefer one to the CT-200. The CT-200 is much smaller and lighter, only a little slower, and as far as I am concerned offers acceptable performance wide open. Recommended.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall T-300 300mm F5.6 by dme on Thu January 29, 2015 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Views: 14907
Reviews: 2
Bagged this on eBay to add to my Adaptall collection. The best thing about it is the handling. Focusing is beautifully smooth, and with 3/4 of a turn, it is easy to nail the focus. The tripod mount is useful, especially considering that at f5.6 maximum aperture this lens is quite slow. With the M/A switch, Aperture Priority is straightforward. Image quality is pretty good. I have copies of the Adaptall CT-300 (the successor to this lens) and the Adaptall SP 54B, and this is certainly in the same ball-park image-wise. Pixel peeping, with my copies, I would say the CT-300 is the best, then this lens, then the SP 54B. The distinction may just be down to focus accuracy, of course. Where this lens distinguished itself was the consistency of the images I produced with it, a tribute perhaps to the long focus throw. I like the bokeh, nice and smooth. The built-in lens hood is very deep, a benefit of the large overall lens dimensions. However, the image quality of my Pentax-F 100-300mm, Pentax FA 100-300mm and Sigma 70-300mm zooms can also be in the same ball park when they are zoomed out to 300 mm, if I take the trouble to fine tune the focus manually with an eye-piece magnifier. This lens weighs more than any of those zooms. I'm not sure when I will use it, but it is a nice object, and it produces nice images, so I recommend it.

Review of: Revuenon MC 50mm F1.4 by dme on Sat January 3, 2015 | Rating: 10 View more reviews 
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Views: 145553
Reviews: 19
Mine was the 6 aperture blade version, with a rear element that appeared to be flat. The overall dimensions, and the handling, are very similar to the Pentax-M 50mm f1.4. It was just that the rear element of the Revuenon seemed a bit more prominent. I didn't have this mint condition lens for long, since I bought it to give as a Christmas present. But before handing it over, I took a few shots, at f1.4 and f2, at the sort of distance that one might use for a portrait, to compare it with my Pentax-M 50mm f1.4. I was impressed. I used the same aggressive hood for both lenses. I have found that it gives an enormous benefit on the Pentax-M 50mm f1.4 at f1.4, and I am sure this must be the case also for the Revuenon, whose construction closely resembles the Pentax. The Revuenon seems to be a bit longer than the Pentax. The images were very similar in the middle of the frame. However, the Revuenon images were far, far sharper, with better contrast, in the corners. Fringes when they appeared were the same colour, but the Revuenon fringes were smaller. I don't know whether the Pentax would have benefited in comparison from its 8 aperture blades if I had reduced the aperture further, but at f1.4 and f2 the Revuenon had a definite edge. I handed it over on Christmas Day most reluctantly!

Review of: Sigma AF Aspherical UC 28-200mm F3.8-5.6 by dme on Sat January 3, 2015 | Rating: 9 View more reviews 
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Views: 31652
Reviews: 3
This was an eBay whim purchase, but one I am pleased with. The colours are pleasing, and Pentax-like. The lens is light and compact, and balances nicely on the Samsung GX20. The manual controls (zoom, manual focus) feel good, though the manual focus throw is only about 60 degrees. It doesn't seem to be very good at 28mm. Nothing seems to be in sharp focus, even when I switch to manual focus and use a focus magnifier, even though the manual focus mechanism is far superior to any Pentax F or FA series lens I have used. From 35mm and upwards, it is much better than my Tamron 28-200mm Adaptall-2 71A, especially so at the long end. At 1440x900 resolution, the images stand comparison with the Tamron 17-50mm f2.8, the Pentax FA 100-300 f4.7-5.8, and the Tamron Adaptall SP 35-200mm f3.8-4 (manual focus) over their common ranges, at any aperture, in the centre of the frame. However, pixel peeping, the Sigma can be seen to be inferior to all of these away from the centre of the frame, even at f8, with the fall-off in contrast being more obvious than the decline in sharpness. Not much fringing in evidence, and the bokeh seems inoffensive. The minimum focus distance hasn't proved limiting, even indoors. Autofocus seems reliable at anything other than 28mm, in good light. In semi-darkness, it hunts at the long end, but why would I expect it not to ... Flare looks as though it might be an issue, with the exposed front element. I have a screw-in hood on order. Meanwhile, I have avoided shooting in to the sun. The 72mm filter ring should permit filter stacking, even on full frame (presumably the reason for it), though bear in mind that that the front element rotates on focusing, about 60 degrees from minimum focus distance to infinity. It isn't fast, but then neither are the Pentax kit lenses. A lens for use on a sunny day at the beach, or anywhere you don't want to risk changing lenses, and you want the range and the convenience of autofocus. Recommended. UPDATE: The rubber hood has now arrived, and it has improved the images markedly, particularly at 28mm. At f8, the contrast is a little lower than the Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 and the Pentax Powerzoom FA 28-105mm f4-5.6, but the detail matches or exceeds them.

Review of: Centon MC 50mm F1.7 by dme on Tue December 23, 2014 | Rating: 9 View more reviews 
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Views: 20264
Reviews: 3
Two of these have passed through my hands. One came on a Centon K100 (Chinese K1000 clone) owned by my daughter; it lost infinity focus after a year or so. I replaced it for £5 in a Jessops branch closing down sale, and kept the defective lens. Eventually I got round to looking at the problem. The lens's focusing and aperture mechanisms reminded me of the Pentax-M 50mm f2, but the lens assembly was like that of the SMC Takumar 55mm f1.8; a series of Aluminium rings screwed together. Somehow they had unscrewed; that was the cause of the loss of infinity focus. I screwed everything back tightly together, and it all worked. I mention this in case anyone else has similar issues. My daughter has had great success with it particularly shooting black and white film. I don't use it much myself. Images taken with it are really very similar to those shot with the Pentax-M 50mm f1.7, but the Centon is slightly bulkier, and takes a larger filter size, so I have no reason to prefer it to the excellent Pentax-M.

Review of: Vivitar (Tokina) T4 / TX and fixed mount 35mm F2.5 or F2.8 by dme on Sun November 30, 2014 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Reviews: 3
When I started with a Digital SLR, I had nothing faster than f3.5 at less than 50mm, so I bought some inexpensive wider primes to give me f2.8 for use (mainly indoors) in lower light. When I bought the Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 AF, I hoped it would cure me of LBA, but unfortunately it just meant the faster primes became larger, harder to find and more expensive. The Vivitar TX 35mm f2.5 is one such purchase. Actually, I like it. When I bought it, it was a bit faster than anything else that I had at 35mm, I find the extra half stop or so over the Tamron 17-50mm AF useful, and the TX is the easiest to focus of anything I have at 35mm without the benefit of a split screen or an eyepiece magnifier attachment. Wide open, the TX displays excellent contrast and sharpness in the centre of the image. Focusing is lovely and smooth. The TX handles very nicely; a plus from the lens's possibly excessive diameter is very precise manual focusing. The drawbacks with the TX are:
  • It doesn't get any better at all as it is stopped down. It starts better than the Tamron 17-50mm wide open, but by f5.6 the Tamron surpasses it
  • There is obvious CA in the corners and along the edges when the image is viewed at 1:1. And this, remember, is on an APS-C sensor
  • The CA doesn't diminish much, if at all, as the lens is stopped down
  • I have to use a hood, otherwise veiling flare is a problem, even if there are no obvious light sources other than the sky
  • It seems unnecessarily bulky. The CZJ 35mm f2.4 Flektogon is almost exactly the same length, but it takes a 49mm filter rather than a 58mm filter.
The CZJ 35mm f2.4 Flektogon is faster again, shows less CA, and improves markedly as it is stopped down. The Flektogon gives subtle renditions of fine detail, but the contrast of the Flektogon is much lower than that of the TX wide open, and even with the Seagull focusing magnifier I find focusing the Flektogon in poor light is tricky. By f5.6, the Flektogon shows much less difference between the corners and the centre than the TX, but overall the Flektogon is still behind at f5.6. The Cosina 35mm f2.8 is tiny by comparison with the TX. Wide open, the Cosina 35mm f2.8 is ahead of the Tamron and nearly up with the TX, and by f5.6 the Cosina surpasses the TX. But at f5.6 Tamron has overtaken the Cosina. The Cosina shows the least CA of any of these primes. The Tamron always has better contrast than the Cosina, and shows no CA whatsoever. I find autofocus with the Tamron on the GX-20 to be hit and miss. It doesn't seem to be back focus per se. When I 'improve' the focus manually, my manual adjustment is still considered to be 'in focus' by focus confirm. I need the Seagull, though, to do this with both the Cosina and the Tamron. In conclusion, the TX has a place; used wide open for available light shooting. The main reason I don't use it more is my Vivitar (Kiron) 28mm f2. Rather wider, but faster still. For good measure, I also compared the Pentax-M 40mm f2.8. Sharpness is in the same ballpark as the others mentioned here, and it is of course tiny. Whilst it may be the case that I have low standards, I recommend all of these. Overall, I give the TX an 8. I have marked it down for its rather restricted applicability in my situation.

Review of: Chinon (Tomioka-made) Auto 55mm F1.4 by dme on Tue November 11, 2014 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Views: 29559
Reviews: 3
This is the legendary Tomioka-designed 55mm f1.4, available under many different brand names. I added it to the database because mine seems to be an earlier model than the others here; all metal construction, except for the leatherette covering of the focus ring. It is very prone to flare when strong light sources are in, or close to, the frame. It is only single coated. I always use a hood. It isn't very prone to chromatic aberrations or purple fringing. It takes beautiful portraits, and pictures of flowers, with very nice colour rendition. It is very sharp in the centre wide open, and gets sharper stopped down. The centre doesn't improve much beyond f2, whilst the corners improve up to f5.6. You need to avoid out of focus highlights beyond the plane of focus; they acquire double rings. Whilst I am reluctant to condemn the build quality of something that has been in use for, and maintains its precision characteristics after, forty or fifty years, the aperture click stops aren't very positive, and the focus isn't as smooth as my Pentax fifties, although it is still better than my (optically excellent) Cosina primes. The Pentax M 50mm f1.4 is easier to focus; it seems to snap in to focus. A curiosity is that my camera doesn't meter an increase in brightness of the image as I click from the last half stop down to f1.4. This isn't a mechanical issue. If I look through the lens, I can see the blades moving. I investigated the size of the circle of confusion, and found that it does get smaller as I reduce the aperture from its maximum, and the shape of the blades is apparent as soon as I start stepping down. When I fixed the shutter speed, the image got darker as I stopped down, as you would expect. However, when I set the camera to Aperture Priority, the exposure wide open was 1.3 seconds, I stopped it down a single click, and the exposure went down to 1 second instead of up! The Auto/Manual (A/M) switch is a very useful feature, but it isn't easy to operate without looking at it. I usually prefer to use the Pentax M 50mm f1.4 when low light performance is needed, because:
  • The Pentax's mechanical handling is superior. It is more easily accurately focused
  • The Chinon's metering strangeness
  • The Pentax benefits from multi-coating
  • The Pentax is smaller and lighter
  • The Pentax has a K-mount!
However the Chinon is still very good, and I would always prefer it for a trip to Kew Gardens.

Review of: Vivitar MC 75-205mm 2X Matched Multiplier by dme on Thu October 16, 2014 | Rating: 6 View more reviews 
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Views: 13081
Reviews: 2
Owning as I do the corresponding Vivitar MC 75-205mm, I bid for this on eBay, and picked it up for 99p plus postage. I have 400mm primes, but none of them focus as closely as this zoom can. The base lens is O.K., its strength is its colour rendition rather than sharpness, but with the converter all I could see was the fringing. With the lenses wide open, the Tamron 01F 2x plus 19AH 70-210 f3.5 produced much more pleasing images. The Pentax 1.7x AF converter plus the Tamron 23A 60-300mm f3.8-5.4 produced images intermediate in quality between the two. So cheap as it is, I can't recommend it.

Review of: Vivitar (Kiron - serial 22xxxxx) 28mm F2 by dme on Thu October 16, 2014 | Rating: 9 View more reviews 
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Views: 130155
Reviews: 13
I bought this lens (K12 in the Vivitar 28mm Bestiary) to be used as a fast normal prime on APS-C cameras, and I am very pleased with it. My copy is in superb condition, with few signs of previous use. Central sharpness is outstanding, even wide open, and so it snaps into focus. In the centre, at F2, sharpness is superior to my Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 zoom, and my Tamron 02B 28mm f2.5 prime (the prime lens that I previously used for available light shooting indoors and at night with this focal length), when the Tamrons are used at their maximum apertures, though the Tamrons display better contrast and fewer aberrations overall. The corners, even on an APS-C camera, lag far behind the centre. At F8, and viewed on a monitor, the same view shot with the Tamron 17-50mm and the Vivitar 28mm f2 K12 look very similar in terms of colour, but peep at the pixels, and the K12 has a definite edge in the centre, whilst the Tamron is superior in the corners. I really like the long focus throw; it helps nail the focus. The rotating front element is strange in a prime, but:
  • If you were shooting in a situation where you wanted to use a polariser, you are probably not going to stray far from the hyperfocal distance
  • I'm not planning to use this lens in broad daylight out of doors anyway. If I'm carrying primes, the K12 is much larger than the Komine-made Vivitar 28mm f2.8 Close Focus, which I'm very happy with.
For the uses to which I have put the K12, family snaps indoors with the lens wide open, the bokeh is fine. It looks like the in-focus bits, but out of focus. Overall, 9 out of 10; I am docking a point for the relatively poor corner performance.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall-2 SP (26A) 35-210mm F3.5-4.2 by dme on Tue October 7, 2014 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Views: 43844
Reviews: 9
On the one hand, this lens disappointed me. Having seen the 'Modern Photography' statistics on adaptall2.org, I expected something spectacular. Instead, in my experiments in my back garden, I found that my copy is outperformed by both the 40A, and the earlier 22A, the Adaptall-2 35-135mm zooms, over the range they have in common. On the other hand, it is, in absolute rather than relative terms, pretty good. I have two bodies, a Samsung GX20 and a Pentax K-x. If I am travelling light, I put the Tamron 17-50mm on the Samsung, and may put this lens on the K-x. With the other body to handle wide, the 35-210mm is plenty long enough in a city. It doesn't snap into focus, but if I do get the focus right, and hold it steady, at f8 it is just as good as the stellar Tamron over the range they have in common, even without a hood, and the sharpness, depth of colour and contrast is maintained all the way from 35mm to 210mm. I think the difficulty I have in judging precise manual focus without microprism or split screen accounts for my relatively high miss rate at the long end. At 200mm, pixel peeping reveals a bit of purple fringing at out of focus high contrast boundaries, but I haven't otherwise seen chromatic aberrations. The bokeh is inoffensive; out of focus areas just look out focus, nothing very arty. The macro mode is sharp, but because it is at 35mm I don't find it useful as a macro. Whilst it enhances the usefulness of the lens indoors, since the minimum focus distance otherwise is about 2 metres, the dimness indoors makes it even harder to focus precisely, so I only use it outside. With an APS-C sensor, it is by no means an all in one lens, but as the full frame equivalent of a 50-300mm telephoto zoom, it still covers a useful range. Recommended.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall-2 (22A) 35-135mm F3.5-4.2 by dme on Tue October 7, 2014 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Views: 41019
Reviews: 7
I had used the 17A, 01F and 46A on a Pentax S1 and then a P30n. When I went Digital they were retired. However, purchase of a bargain Pentax AF 1.7x adapter led me to re-investigate the Adaptall range. To begin with, I only looked at long fast lenses, and I had a list of lenses I wasn't interested in. The 22A was on that list, since the 40A was reputedly superior. However, collecting the things became an obsession, and I now have have 35 different Adaptall, Adaptall-2 and Adaptall SP lenses, including this one. I compare it with the 40A, which is also 35-135mm, and the 26A, 35-210mm. Adaptall2.org suggests descending order is 40A, 26A and 22A, but in the back garden I found the 22A was very close to the 40A, with the 26A quite a way behind, both in sharpness and depth of colour. The 40A has an advantage in size, and minimum focus distance, but the 22A macro is obviously superior, and is at the useful (long) end to boot. Furthermore, the 22A is slightly faster. Whilst I prefer the 40A, the 22A is still pretty good.

Review of: Kenko Teleplus Kenko Pz-AF 2X Teleplus MC4 by dme on Thu September 18, 2014 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 


Views: 16021
Reviews: 4
This works better for me than I had feared after reading these reviews. I can think of three reasons for this.
  1. Mine is designated DG, and is (2017) the latest version available for Pentax, perhaps with more effective coatings than earlier variants.
  2. I've only tried to use it on long zooms. A second-hand Sigma AF 70-300 will cost less than this TC new, and sometimes as little as this second hand, so I would never have considered fitting this TC to something like the Pentax 18-55 or 18-135.
  3. Luck, or misfortune, with choice of lenses. Of my non-AF teleconverters, the MC7 most often gives the best results, but with some lenses the Tamron-F/DOI 7 element (they are the same) works better, whilst with others the non-AF MC4 is just as good.
  4. I have used it with a Pentax F 70-210 f4-5.6 and a Sigma 70-300 f4-5.6 DG Macro (and now also with the Pentax F 100-300 f4.5-5.6, the Pentax FA 80-200mm f4.7-5.6, the Pentax FA 100-300mm; and the Sigma 70-300mm f4-5.6 APO Macro; see updates below). I have also compared it with a Pz-AF MC7 teleconverter. I have only attempted to use it on bright sunny days, by the seaside. It locked focus reliably up to f4.5 on a static or slowly moving target, so the Pentax was usable from 70-150 mm, whilst the Sigma could be used from 70-200 mm. Both these lenses are better at their shorter focal lengths anyway. It didn't lock quickly enough to catch birds in flight, though I have occasionally had success using the Sigma without the TC. There is more detail discernible in the shots with the TC than equivalent crops without it. So this gives me 400 mm autofocus at f9 with the Sigma. If I mate the Tamron Adaptall 80-250mm f3.8 with the Pentax 1.7x AF adapter, I get 400 mm at f6.5, but pay an enormous penalty in terms of weight, and still can't catch birds in flight with autofocus. Since it won't autofocus beyond f4.5, my additional autofocus reach with these lenses is less than 1.5 x. Which brings me to my chief criticism. I would get equivalent reach from a 1.4x autofocus TC, which would be even smaller and lighter, and I would gain a stop in brightness. However, I would never expect to be able to buy a 1.4x Autofocus TC for £20. If I am traveling light with autofocus lenses, I bring this along. UPDATE: I recently acquired the Pentax FA 80-200mm f4.7-5.6 and the FA 100-300mm f4.7-5.8. The TC didn't play well with the FA 100-300mm f4.7-5.8 at any focal length, hunting for focus even when the target displayed good contrast, but to my surprise it worked well with the FA 80-200mm f4.7-5.8 all the way up to 200mm in good light. There was just a drop in contrast. FURTHER UPDATE: The Pentax-F 100-300 f4.5-5.6 is f4.5 to beyond 200 mm, and I have got AF to work reliably out to about 240 mm, and occasionally all the way to 300 mm. The combination works well. More detail but with reduced contrast, when compared with cropping images straight out of the camera. FURTHER FURTHER UPDATE: The Sigma 70-300mm f4-5.6 APO Macro behaves just like the DG Macro (non-APO). It will autofocus out to 200mm only. I have now acquired a Tamron Pz-AF MC7 2x. In general it autofocuses as well (or as badly) as this MC4, but on the two lenses that the MC4 works best with, the Pentax F 100-300mm f4.5-5.6 and the Pentax FA 80-200mm f4.7-5.6, the MC4 works reliably to longer focal lengths. In the centre of the frame I can see no difference pixel peeping. But the JPEG's come out a bit bigger with the MC7, suggesting that there is more detail somewhere about. It makes no difference to me, because I'm only using the teleconverter on targets in the centre of the frame. I have now also used a Kenko P-AF 1.4x DG. With it, the Pentax F 100-300mm f4.5-5.6, the lens it was bought to mate with, now autofocuses all the way to 300mm, captures more detail than can be obtained by digitally cropping, gives me just as much reliable autofocus zoom range as the 2x, and is a stop faster. I noted that my two lenses for which the MC4 works best were the two with internal zoom. I think that is significant. I recently acquired a Tamron 18-200mm f3.5-6.3, and this also autofocuses all the way to 200mm, even though it is only f6.3 at 200mm. So I would guess that the Pentax-F 80-200mm, which is optically identical to the FA, and the Pentax FA PZ 100-300mm, optically identical to the F, would probably work as well. But my advice would still be, if you're hoping to use a teleconverter with a consumer zoom, buy the 1.4x rather than any 2x TC.

Review of: Cosina MC Cosinon-W 24mm F2.8 by dme on Wed July 9, 2014 | Rating: 9 View more reviews 
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Views: 35424
Reviews: 3
If you want to know what this lens looks like, see https://www.pentaxforums.com/userreviews/cosina-35mm-f2-8-cosinon-w-mc.html - just imagine 35 replaced with 24 on the vanity ring. The handling characteristics of the two lenses likewise is identical down to the slight 'stickiness' when I try to start moving the focus ring. Green button metering works on the GX-20, but is useless on the K-x, because the (metal) mount is anodised. I am not inclined to attack the mount with sand paper to fix this. On the K-x, I use the 'Sunny 16' rule first off, and then consult the histogram. Colours and contrast are good, there is little distortion, and there is a little bit of CA. Bokeh, when there is any, lacks character, but doesn't offend. The lens isn't resistant to flare. Using a hood all the time (I use a collapsible rubber) helps, but if the sun is in the frame the captured image is likely to be useless. The lens is sharp wide open, and gets sharper stopped down, in the centre and the corners. There can be a little bit of fringing. I don't notice any distortion. I think the Cosina has a slight edge in sharpness over the Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 Zoom at any aperture, though the differences are slight. However, the Tamron Zoom copes much better with flare, shows no fringing, and its colours are more pleasing. At f8, I find there is little to choose between the Cosina, the Tamron 17-50mm f2.8, and the Tamron SP 24-48mm f3.5-3.8 I find the Tamron 01B 24mm f2.5 to be, in comparison:
  • More easily focused; the difference between f2.5 and f2.8 makes a big difference to me in the brightness of the view finder.
  • Much nicer to handle; the Tamron focus ring is perfectly damped.
  • Markedly bulkier; 55mm filters versus 49mm, and the Tamron prime is scarcely smaller than the Tamron SP 24-48mm f3.5-3.8 zoom
  • Less sharp in the corners when I pixel-peep.
I have also compared the Cosina to the SUN YS-24 f2.8, and the Tokina TX 24mm f2.8 Mark 2, and at f8 I get obviously better results with the Cosina in the corners. Recommended.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall-2 (40A) 35-135mm F3.5-4.5 by dme on Thu May 29, 2014 | Rating: 9 View more reviews 
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Views: 58398
Reviews: 7
I own two copies of this. One cost 12.50 euros with no caps and a Tamron Adaptall C-mount (useless to me), the other £17, including a PK mount, caps, case, instructions and the retail box. The price shown above is the average of the two. This second one (actually, the first I acquired) had a modicum of fungus on the second element from the front. The front element comes out easily, and I cleaned the fungus off, but after a year or so it's growing back :(. But apart from this minor issue, both copies look like new, and both are spectacular performers. Nice, rich colours (though not as rich as the Pentax PowerZoom 28-105mm f4-5.6) quite sharp wide open, very sharp stopped down to f.8, good sharpness and contrast across the whole frame, across the entire zoom range, near and far. Whilst not as good as the prime CZJ 135mm f3.5 at 135mm, the comparison doesn't embarrass the 40A. Good unobtrusive bokeh, and I don't notice fringing or aberrations generally. The 40A takes wallet-friendly 58mm filters. It balances nicely on my cameras. I use a screw-in petal hood, and find the 40A to be much less affected by flare than my 01A. For walking around town, the zoom range isn't that convenient; I often want to go wider than 35mm, whilst I seldom want to go as long as 135mm. But for a walk in the country or a day at the beach it is excellent. Even my old eyes can focus it accurately when it is bright and sunny! Any drawbacks? Well, the macro mode engages at the 35mm rather than the 135mm end, so you're almost touching the target, and the macro image quality doesn't stand comparison with what the lens ordinarily achieves. And obviously there's no autofocus or automatic image stabilisation communication to the camera body, which certainly at the beach is a drawback. But I would be very upset if the beach killed my PowerZoom 28-105; at the prices these go for, there's no reason not to have a spare! A worthy 9, I think.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall-2 SP (13A) 24-48mm F3.5-3.8 by dme on Tue May 27, 2014 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Views: 40284
Reviews: 3
I had thought I would give this lens a miss, since it is relatively expensive for an old manual zoom, and its zoom range is fully covered by my excellent, and faster, Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 AF, never mind the 18-55mm kit lens. But it was a gap in my Adaptall collection, so I succumbed to LBA, and lashed out. My copy looks well used, there is a bit of dust inside and mechanically it all feels a bit loose, but there is no fungus, and there are no marks on the front element. At 24mm, my 13A is sharper than my Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 AF. Which just goes to show that sharpness isn't the be all and end all, since the pictures from the 17-50mm f2.8 AF, out of the camera, usually look more pleasing. It seems to be down to the colours. Looking at the pictures I have taken with the 13A, the over-riding impression is ... sharpness. The images draw my eye in, willing me to zoom in further and further. The colours are restrained out of the camera. They don't look bad, exactly, but the Tamron 17-50mm AF produces a more rounded image, with less distortion. I always use a 58mm screw-in petal hood, branded Casio, that has a lock screw. It is a bit of a faff to get it started on the strange broken thread, I start with the lock screw almost unscrewed to make sure the male thread starts square but once on it stays put, and it doesn't vignette on an APS-C camera. I haven't tried filters; I'm on the lookout for the pukka hood. Minimum focus is 2 feet, so no macro. By reputation the 13A is better at the short end, but stopped down to f8 I find it excellent at any focal length. With f3.5 maximum aperture, and my ageing eyes, I usually struggle to focus manually at 24mm, but the lens is so sharp I find it isn't a problem. I've never noticed the bokeh; if I'm looking for subject isolation, I use a faster lens. Out of the camera JPEG's show quite a bit of fringing at high contrast image transitions. This is not apparent if I use rawtherapee on the raw images. Overall, I like the 13A, and use it as a walkaround lens for a change. It is compact and the images it produces are unlike those from any of my autofocus zooms. UPDATE - I now have the proper hood. At vast expense (O.K., £10) I managed to procure one of the proper hoods with a bite taken out of one of its petals. On its plus side, I can now use filters, albeit expensive, 77mm filters, but at least for APS-C, my 58mm screw in hood is much more effective at combating stray light.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall-2 SP (01A) 35-80mm F2.8-3.8 by dme on Tue May 27, 2014 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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I have had this lens (purchased with a PK/M adapter attached for £23 on eBay) for 6 months now, and have tried hard to like it, but I'm still unsure. The Good No aberrations to speak of, colours like the Pentax kit lenses close up, rich yet natural, really good contrast, excellent Macro mode. Sharp from wide open and easy to focus at all focal lengths, the 01A gets obviously sharper as it goes longer (and slower). Indoors, and in and around my pocket-handkerchief back garden, I have nothing to complain about. The Not So Good Outdoors, at distances from a few metres upwards, the colours seem to get washed out. I would have said it was flare, and flare is certainly an issue when the sun is close to the frame, but even using a deep screw-in rubber hood and with the sun behind me, the colours are less pleasing than in pictures taken with the Pentax FA 28-105mm f4-5.6 Powerzoom. This isn't the case indoors, or close-up outdoors. No question but that the images are still super sharp, pixel by pixel, but when the images should have saturated colours they seem to lack something. It's not noticeable when the subject is more or less monochrome, such as the courtyard at Somerset House in London, but next door, Kings College London, where there is greenery and brickwork as well, it's obvious. Bokeh is not obtrusive but nothing special. The older Tamron Adaptall QZ-35M is technically inferior in almost every respect, and it is harder to focus accurately, but it makes the townscapes look retro whilst the 01A tends to make them look as though I shouldn't have bothered to take the picture in the first place! The QZ-35M also boasts an A/M switch, so Aperture Priority works without a PK/A adapter. I prefer the Pentax-M 35-70mm f2.8-3.5 outdoors also. And it is faster than the 01A for the most part. But there is no possibility of Aperture Priority, it doesn't go as long (though the claimed 80mm for the 01A is more like 75mm), and it lacks the excellent macro capability of the 01A. I tend to take the 01A rather than the Cosina 28-105mm f2.8-3.8; this is down to the smaller size and superior handling of the Tamron 01A, and its macro mode. The Tamron 18-50mm f2.8 AF is better, period, over the range it has in common with the 01A, if the focus is right. To conclude, the 01A is excellent in an intimate setting, but I won't be taking it hiking in the great out-doors. You might think an 8 is rather harsh considering the individual scores above, and the scores I have given some other lenses, but I'm marking it down for the flare.

Review of: Vivitar TX mount (tokina) 24mm F2.8 by dme on Tue February 25, 2014 | Rating: 9 View more reviews 
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This is the second version of the Vivitar TX exchangeable mount 24mm f2.8, made by Tokina. My copy is very battered, with big gouges in the barrel and plenty of internal dust. Its aperture blades don't close down to give a regular hexagon. No scratches on the glass or fungus, though. The lens itself, without a mount, cost £10. I had to pay an additional £16 for a new-old-stock PK TX mount. Note that the PK TX mount will mount on the older T4 lenses, sold by Vivitar and Soligor; this isn't true of the more useful of the M42 TX mounts. I bought this lens to give me an extra stop over the kit lens, when using a flash was out of the question, before I bought a Tamron 17-50mm f2.8. Wide open, the TX 24mm Mark 2 is the sharpest of my 24mm primes (the others being the SUN 24mm f2.8, the Tamron Adaptall f2.5 and the Soligor Gold Series f2.5), and it is sharper than the Tamron 17-50 f2.8 as well, though the contrast is not so good. It is the easiest of my 24mm lenses to focus accurately; the viewfinder is bright, and things 'snap in' to focus. Whilst the flare isn't as shocking as the Soligor Gold Series f2.5, it is often a problem. Flash is hopeless. This is the only lens I own which gives me reflections off the sensor. The Mark 1 version of this lens takes a 58mm filter. http://www.suaudeau.eu/memo/collection/Objectifs/Vivitar.html shows the two lenses side by side. It may be that the optical formula is unchanged, with the size reduction between the versions achieved by trimming the top. The front element on this lens is certainly very exposed. But this is helpful when mounting a Nikon FC8 Fish-eye converter, which gives me a circle within the APS-C frame. I'm not entirely convinced that the combination focuses to infinity, but the FC8 works better with this lens than any of the others that I own. http://www.suaudeau.eu/memo/test/Test_comparatif_des_objectifs_24mm_02.html (in French) compares the Mark 1 and Mark 2 with a number of other lenses. I would agree with the remark there that the Mark 2 is superior to the Tamron 24mm f2.5, whilst there isn't anything wrong with the Tamron 24mm f2.5, which is itself a respectable performer. Outdoors, a polarising filter helps with the flare, and makes the colours go all Pentax-like. But vignetting can be apparent if I stack filters. Bokeh is good, but not as good as the SUN 24mm. I don't usually stop this lens down, not least because of the problems with its diaphragm, but I don't think it gets much sharper when it is stopped down. I thought I would stop using it after I bought the Tamron 17-50mm, but I haven't. This lens, the FC8, the Pentax M 50mm f1.4 and the Pentax K-x fit together in my holster, so if the occasion demands the M 50mm f1.4, the TX 24mm may well accompany it. Highly recommended.

Review of: Soligor Multi-coated Gold Series Auto Lens 24mm F2.5 by dme on Sat February 15, 2014 | Rating: 7 View more reviews 
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This lens, according to its JCII label, dates from 1982. I bought it off e-Bay in its original retail packaging, and it looked unused. It is actually quite sharp even wide open (similar to my Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 zoom) but bright as it is, I find it difficult to focus wide open, since things don't snap into focus and the flare has to be seen to be believed. Christmas Tree lights become fuzzy globes. It doesn't need to be have a light source to flare; even a blue tie against a white shirt can look a mess. Needless to say, I always use a lens hood. It is faster than its designation indicates. Comparisons with other lenses of f2, f2.5 and f2.8 suggest that this lens is actually f2.3. Bokeh is unexceptional; the SUN 24mm f2.8 is better in this regard. I don't know who made this lens, but the engraving (font, size, colours) and the shiny black lacquer finish are identical to that on a lens I know to have been made by Kobori (lens brand names Koboron, Tefnon). Although like the Prinzflex 70-162mm f3.5 (made by Kobori), which resembles the Tamron Adaptall QZ-150M and Adaptall-2 02A 70-150mm f3.5 lenses (which go longer than 150mm), this lens seems quite similar to the Tamron 24mm f2.5 01B, the lens formulae are different; the Tamron has a pair of elements at the rear, whilst this lens has only the one. This lens may be the same as the Chinon 24mm f2.5, which shares its 55mm filter, and some cosmetic features, but only having seen pictures of the Chinon, I can't say that for certain. This lens sharpens up to match my other 24mm primes at f8, and the flare goes away, but that rather defeats my purpose in buying it. When things go well, the images can look as if they have been painted. I find it useful for pictures of Christmas Tree lights, candle-lit dinners and streets at night. So I am giving it a 7.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall-2 (59A and 159A) 28-70mm F3.5-4.5 by dme on Thu January 2, 2014 | Rating: 7 View more reviews 
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I find the 59A images to be quite similar to those from the 35-70mm 09A, with the added benefit of 28mm, but the images are not quite as good as those from the 44A. So, in the same ball park as the Pentax kit lenses. I find it hard to accurately manually focus with f3.5-4.5. The 17A, with its constant f3.5, or or the 01A, f2.8-3.8, and the QZ-35M, f2.8-3.5 are more easily focused, but none of these faster Adaptalls go to 28mm. However, the images produced by the 59A don't look like those produced by the Pentax kit lenses. The 44A isn't exactly expensive, but my personal experience suggests that they haven't worn well, so whilst I wouldn't suggest going out of one's way to hunt down a 59A, should one present itself, don't hesitate to pick it up.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall-2 (09A) 35-70mm F3.5-4.5 by dme on Thu January 2, 2014 | Rating: 6 View more reviews 
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The 09A 35-70mm f3.5-4.5 was replaced in the Adaptall range by the 35-70mm f3.5 17A. I find:
  • The 09A is harder to focus accurately, because of the dimmer viewfinder
  • The 09A doesn't seem quite as sharp as the 17A; the 09A is close, but I get consistently more detail from the 17A.
  • I prefer the zoom ring on the 17A.
  • The 28-70mm f3.5-4.5 59A produces very similar images to the 09A, and in addition is smaller and lighter, and goes to 28mm
You wouldn't pay more for the 17A, so there is no reason to go for the 09A. Additionally, I have reluctantly concluded that the 35-70mm zoom range isn't that useful on APS-C cameras. So not recommended.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall-2 (44A) 28-70mm F3.5-4.5 by dme on Thu January 2, 2014 | Rating: 7 View more reviews 
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Reviews: 10
I have three of these; the price is the average of the three. Notice the notch in the the focus ring in the picture of the lens above? There is supposed to be a plug in it. All of my copies are missing their plugs also. The plugs give access to screws you would need to get at to dismantle the lens. One of my copies won't focus anywhere near infinity whilst the zoom ring on the second is almost impossible to move. My review relates to the third copy, which looks great, apart from its missing plugs, and which can be zoomed without needing two hands and the strength of ten. Image quality seems almost identical to the 35-70mm 17A. The 17A, being a constant f3.5 and not quite parfocal, is easier to focus, but the 44A goes to 28mm. Wide open, the 44A seems to me to be superior to the 28-80mm SP 27A. The 35-80mm SP 01A image quality seems to be better than that of the 44A. Certainly the 01A being faster (f2.8-3.8) is easier for me to focus, but note that:
  • The 01A images seem to resemble Pentax lens output rather than the other Adaptalls
  • The 44A goes to 28mm.
The 44A seems to be a bit ahead of the 28-70mm 59A and the 35-70mm 09A, which are both also f3.5-4.5. In terms of sharpness, and subject to the limitations of my manual focusing abilities, the 44A offers nothing over the Pentax F 28-80mm f3.5-4.5, or the Pentax FA 28-70mm f4, or the Pentax FA-J 28-80mm f3.5-5.6, which all benefit from Autofocus. However, the images from the 44A look completely different. So, recommended if you want to try a manual zoom that gives you at least equivalent image quality, but a very different picture, to what you would get from one of the Pentax Autofocus kit lenses.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall-2 (04A) 75-250mm F3.8-4.5 by dme on Fri December 20, 2013 | Rating: 7 View more reviews 
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I found one of these on e-Bay, the first I have ever seen. I wasn't certain that it was an 04A rather than a 104A, but in my determined pursuit of Adaptalls I had to go for it. Although its body and mechanicals appear unused, my copy has more fungus than any lens I have ever owned; it disfigures the majority of the internal glass surfaces, and the front looks scrubbed. Bear that in mind. I am comparing the 04A to the Tamron Adaptall 80-250mm Z-250, the Adaptall 80-250mm f3.8-4.5 QZ-250M, the Adaptall-2 75-250mm f3.8-4.5 104A, and also the Adaptall SP 60-300mm f3.8-5.6 23A. Wide open, it is relatively strong at the long end. In this respect, it resembles the QZ-250M, which it replaced, though according to adaptall-2.org their optical formulae are different, and they are different lengths. In spite of the fungus, my 04A 'snaps' into focus. Although the contrast is low, the absolute detail wide open in the centre of the frame at 250mm is really good, and the colours are nice. The 04A colour fringes seem less intense than those of the others. Weight-wise, the 04A is similar to the 104A. I prefer the built-in hood on the 04A, but otherwise they are both one touch zooms which balance nicely on the Samsung GX20. Bokeh is just like the QZ-250M, the 104A, and the 23A; not that good. The Z250 is much better in this respect. The 04A is a stop faster than the 23A at the long end, and the resolution wide-open is similar. So in summary, optically it most resembles the QZ-250M, whilst in handling terms it is very like the 104A. So, I guess it would appeal to someone who wants an inexpensive, relatively fast longish manual zoom like the QZ-250M, but prefers a one-touch to a two touch zoom. Recommended.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall T-200/870 Auto Tamron 200mm F3.5 by dme on Sun December 8, 2013 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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This review has two parts. The first is my experience with the copy of this lens I have just obtained, whose rubber focusing rings have perished, but which otherwise looks to be in pretty good nick. The second is the full text of a MODERN PHOTOGRAPHY review from decades ago, that I originally mined for the lens specification data shown above. Marcus's Tamron 200mm comparison, http://forum.mflenses.com/adaptall-200mm-s-which-one-if-any-is-the-best-t661...ll+%2B200.html compares this lens with the CT-200 and the Adaptall-2 04B. Wide open, my copy of this lens seems to be a shade better than my CT-200 certainly in terms of contrast, and perhaps resolution as well, at least at distances up to ten metres, though there isn't much in it, which chimes with Marcus's observation. But the CT-200 is faster, and much lighter. Whilst this lens's weight may help when trying to hold the lens steady at exposures of 1/40 of a second, it was novel to pick up the Pentax F 100-300mm f4.5-5.6 and experience a sensation of weightlessness. In comparison with the Pentax F 100-300mm f4.5-5.6 at 200mm and f4.5 and the same distances, the Pentax zoom looks just as good in the centre of the frame, and shows less fringing, particularly in the plane of focus, but the Tamron primes are obviously sharper in the corners. Colours (a bit subdued) and bokeh are very similar to those from my CT-200, to the extent that it is hard for me to tell which of these two lenses has taken the picture just by looking at it. Build quality is first class, apart from the strange textured rubber common to all early Adaptalls, that has perished on many of these lenses over the last forty years. Missing rubber not withstanding, focusing my copy is an absolute pleasure, silky-smooth. And of course, you have Aperture Priority, courtesy of the A/M switch. The lens is heavy, but the tripod ring is excellent. So recommended. _________________________________________________________________________________ This is the full text of the article that I mined for the information above. The article reviews three lenses. The 28mm f2.8 Auto Tamron isn't in the database as of today. The 135mm f2.8 Auto Tamron described below can be found at https://www.pentaxforums.com/userreviews/tamron-auto-135mm-f28.html The 200mm f3.5 Auto Tamron review comes after the others. piledon's review of the CT-200 actually refers to this lens. "MODERN PHOTOGRAPHY's unbiased test reports are based on actual field work and measurements carried out in our own laboratories. Only production equipment and materials similar to those available to the reader are tested. Readers are warned, however, that our tests, particularly of lenses and cameras, are often far more critical and specific than those published elsewhere and cannot therefore be compared with them. In all lens tests, unless specifically noted, some of the sharpness fall-off at the edges can be traced to curvature of field, most noticeable at close focusing distances; at distant settings, this effect would be minimized. Note too that the standards for center sharpness are higher than for edge sharpness, so that no comparison should be made between center and edge ratings. WARNING: Since optics and precision mechanisms may vary from unit to unit we strongly suggest that our readers carry out their own tests on equipment they buy. NO MODERN TEST MAY BE REPRODUCED IN WHOLE OR IN PART FOR ANY PURPOSE IN ANY FORM WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION. Should you have difficulty locating sources for any product write to the Reader's Service Dept. of Modern Photography." Since 'Modern Photography' is long gone, good luck with that! THREE AUTO TAMRONS IN CHANGEABLE MOUNTS MANUFACTURER'S SPECIFICATIONS: 28mm f/2.8 Auto Tamron lens in interchangeable Adaptall Custom Mounts for Pentax, Pentax ES, Nikon, Minolta, Konica, Canon, Olympus, Miranda, Rollei SL35 and Leicaflex. FEATURES: Apertures to f/16, focusing to 10 in. (0.25 m), accepts 55mm accessories. PRICE: $149.95, plus $25.95 for any adapter. 135mm f/2.8 Auto Tamron lens in mounts as above. FEATURES: Apertures to f/22, focusing to 5 ft. (1.5 m), collapsible lens hood, accepts 55mm accessories. PRICE: $129.95, plus $25.95 for any adapter. 200mm f/3.5 Auto Tamron lens in mounts as above. FEATURES: Apertures to f/22, focusing to 6.6 ft. (2 m), collapsible lens hood, rotating tripod-socket collar, accepts 62mm accessories. PRICE: $199.95, plus $25.95 for any adapter. We were quite pleased to get back to testing Tamrons. While many an independent lens maker today offers interchangeable lens adapters for their optics, Tamron, having done it first, has the most experience with the feature. Rather recently they came out with their new, improved, single-piece, stainless-steel Adaptall Custom mounts, which also take care of the new automatic SLR's, which the old Tamron Adaptamatic mounts didn't. Needless to say, the old Adaptamatics don't fit the new lenses and the new Adaptalls won't fit the old lenses either. Basically, no matter which Adaptall you're fitting to a lens, the installation is the same. You line up a green dot on the Adaptall with a matching dot on the back of the lens, insert mount into lens and twist the well-knurled black Adaptall ring clockwise about 20°. They are now bayoneted together until death do them part (or you push the small metal release lever and twist the knurled ring counterclockwise 20°). You needn't worry about any inadvertent lens-mount uncoupling, since the amount of effort to attach the adapter and the positiveness of the locking indent make this possibility highly improbable. With the present rather high prices for the much improved mounts, owners may well examine the advantages of buying one mount, keeping it on the camera and simply interchanging Tamron lenses. This is certainly feasible, since the lenses are easier to separate from the Adaptalls when on the camera. Indeed, with screw-thread-mount cameras, the use of this permanently (or semi-permanently) mounted adapter will give you the advantages of a bayonet lens mount on your camera. Of course, it limits you to Tamron lenses, but the advantage of bayonet changing may very well make you lean in that direction. The Tamrons, although still appearing in the instruction book as black-and-chrome illustrations, are now all black in this country. They've benefit from the bright satin-black finish with rubberized control rings, being handsomer and looking even more compact than before. Each lens has a large Manual-Automatic aperture lever, which can also be used for previewing at shooting aperture, and a clear- plastic focusing ring upon which are emblazoned what must be the largest footage and meter scales of any lenses now made. They are extremely visible even in poor light. The plastic ring itself is quite scratch-resistant. In our attempts to deliberately scratch it, we found it took far more pressure and a sharper instrument than that normally needed to put a scratch on an all-metal ring. The focusing and aperture-setting rings, both rubberized, are setflush with the lens itself, which improves the looks of the lens. In the case of focusing, we found the rings easy to operate. However, the aperture ring, far to the rear and 5mm wide, would be helped by being raised or made wider (or both) for easier gripping and turning. A word of explanation for Tamron owners concerning the red EE setting on the aperture scale to the left of the f/16 marking. This is the proper setting only for Konica Autoreflex cameras on fully-automatic-exposure operation. Setting the lens to EE will not make your non-auto-exposure SLR into one, nor should you set the EE mark if you own an automatic SLR on which you normally set the aperture and the camera sets the shutter speed (Pentax ES, ES II, Nikkormat EL, Minolta XK). There is no Adaptall mount at present for automatic operation of the Miranda Auto Sensorex EE, Canon EF, Petri FT EE or Topcon IC, although the first three named can accept the manual Adaptall mounts for regular match-needle or stop-down meter operation. The 28mm f/2.8 Tamron has seven elements, an overall length of 2 in. (55mm), a maximum diameter of 2 1/2 in. (65mm), and a weight of nearly 8 oz. (240 gr). It's thus slightly largish, but certainly not objectionably so. In our tests we found the following: Central color fringing (causes image unsharpness with color fringing): On the optical bench, the best focus at f/2.8 had moderately-sized reddish to greenish fringing, which was reduced at f/4 and almost gone by f/5.6. In examining our test pictures, we estimated the aberration to be well-controlled. Central spherical aberration (causes focus shift and flare): Slight flare seen in the lab at f/2.8 was gone by f/4, and this high level of correction was borne out in our pictures. Edge lateral color fringing (causes persistent image unsharpness, possible multiple colored images): Slight lateral color 1/3 out towards the picture corners became moderate at 2/3 out, but remained controlled to the edges. We could see a large red outside fringe and inside blue fringe in our pictures, but sharpness was not affected. Resolution Power 28mm f/2.8 Tamron No. 210746 At 1:49 Magnification f/no. Center Lines/mm Corner Lines/mm 2.8 Good 49 Good 31 4 Exc. 62 Good 31 5.6 Exc. 78 Accept. 31 8 Exc. 78 Good 35 11 Exc. 69 Good 35 16 Exc. 62 V/Good 39 Actual Focal Length: 27.9mm Image Contrast 28mm f/2.8 Tamron No. 210746 At 30 Lines/mm f/no. Center Percentage Corner Percentage 2.8 Low 30 Medium 30 4 Low 46 High 36 5.6 Low 59 Medium 44 8 Low 60 Medium 44 11 Medium 58 Medium 40 16 Medium 56 Medium 38 Edge astigmatism (causes image streaking): Both in the lab and on our test slides, moderate astigmatism from 1/2 of the picture area to the corners at f/4 was observed. Astigmatism was all but gone by f/5.6. Edge coma (causes flare): This was very visible on the bench at f/2.8 and controlled by f/5.6, but appeared very well-controlled in our photos. Optical decentering (causes problems in all areas): None was seen in our lab test, but a turned down edge of one or possibly more elements may have limited lens performance at maximum aperture. Residual ghosts and flare: Well controlled. Linear distortion: Pincushion-type distortion of about 2 percent was observed-not excessive for a lens of this wide an angle. Turning now to the 135mm f/2.8 Tamron, we have an old friend whose optical construction has changed little over the years-except for the barrel de-sign and mount. Unlike the 28mm f/2.8 lens, the 135mm f/2.8 uses an old tried-and-tested means of achieving lightness, compactness and close focusing. The four elements turn in a single helicoid focusing mount instead of using a double helical system (in which the lens elements do not revolve during focusing). This should have no effect whatsoever on picture taking. However, when single-position filters are used (such as polarizing or graduated-sky), the lens must be focused first and the filter added or repositioned afterwards. The 135mm lens has an overall length of but 3 1/2 in. (88mm), a maximum diameter of 2 5/8 in. (65mm), and a weight of 16 1/2oz. (470 gr), making it reasonably light and very compact. Here's how it made out in our tests: Central color fringing: Reddish to greenish fringing seen on our optical bench at f/2.8 was under control by f/5.6, but slight fringing persisted to f/8. The fringe intensity, however, was very low. In our pictures, only a faint greenish secondary color, which did not affect sharpness, was seen. Central spherical aberration: Moderate flare seen at f/2.8 was reduced by f/4 and almost gone by f/5.6. A focus shift of 0.07mm was judged acceptable. Flare was also judged very low in our test slides. Resolution Power 135mm f/2.8 Tamron No. 322933 At 1:50 Magnification f/no. Center Lines/mm Corner Lines/mm 2.8 Exc. 50 Exc. 35 4 Exc. 50 Exc. 35 5.6 Exc. 63 Exc. 40 8 Exc. 63 Exc. 40 11 Exc. 63 V/Good 35 16 Exc. 56 V/Good 35 22 Exc. 50 V/Good 35 Actual Focal Length: 133.2mm Image Contrast 135mm f/2.8 Tamron No. 322933 At 30 Lines/mm f/no. Center Percentage Corner Percentage 2.8 Low 29 Low 29 4 Low 44 Low 31 5.6 Medium 55 Low 36 8 Medium 56 Low 33 11 Medium 55 Low 31 16 Medium 49 V/Low 29 22 Low 40 V/Low 25 Edge lateral color fringing: Moderate color fringing from 1/2 of the picture area to the corners was seen on the bench. On the slides some fringing was observed in the corners, but the correction was judged to be good. Edge astigmatism: On the optical bench a substantial amount seen across the field at f/4 was reduced by f/5.6 and gone by f/8. This was borne out in our test slides, where a very minimal but recognizable tangential streaking in far objects and radial streaking in near ones could be detected at full aperture. Edge coma: Well-controlled on the bench tests. Little flare was seen in our slides. Optical decentering: Moderate mechanical decentering was detected in our lab, which we felt caused the astigmatism already mentioned. Residual ghosts and flare: Normal. Linear distortion: About 1 percent barrel distortion-well within acceptable limits. Turning to the 200mm f/3.5 four-element Tamron, we have Resolution Power 200mm f/3.5 Tamron No. 331404 At 1:50 Magnification f/no. Center Lines/mm Corner Lines/mm 3.5 V/Good 45 Accept. 26 4 V/Good 45 Accept. 26 5.6 Good 45 Good 32 8 Good 40 Good 35 11 Good 40 Exc. 40 16 Good 40 V/Good 35 22 Good 40 V/Good 35 Actual Focal Length: 200.3mm Image Contrast 200mm f/3.5 Tamron No. 331404 At 30 Lines/mm f/no. Center Percentage Corner Percentage 3.5 Low 41 High 38 4 Low 46 Medium 40 5.6 Medium 54 Medium 41 8 Medium 54 Low 38 11 Medium 57 Low 32 16 Medium 58 V/Low 30 22 Medium 55 V/Low 27 Another single helicoid focusing lens just like the 135mm f/2.8, and so the same cautionary remarks concerning the use of filters applies here too. The 200mm lens has a very solid and well-placed rotating tripod-socket ring with a big platform and a very positive locking screw. The platform is raised slightly so the lens can rotate and be set properly no matter what type of tripod is used. Focusing to 6.6 ft., the lens is excellent for tightly-cropped portraits. Here's how it fared in our tests: Central color fringing: Moderate reddish fringing could be seen at f/3.5, but it wasn't bright. Fringing was well-controlled by f/8, but persisted to f/16. A purple fringing could be seen in our photos but disappeared by f/5.6. Central spherical aberration: A moderate-sized flare pattern, low in intensity, was gone by f/5.6. Flare at maximum aperture was also visible in our slides. Edge lateral color fringing: Small to moderate red to green fringing was always under control. Weak fringes (purple inwards and green outwards) were visible on our test slides. Edge astigmatism: Moderate on the bench. We felt the slides showed very good correction. Edge coma: Excellent correction was seen on the bench but comatic flare was seen in the photos, being rather strong at full aperture but disappearing by f/5.6. Optical decentering: No decentering was observable. Residual ghosts and flare: Normal. Linear distortion: We measured about 0.5 percent barrel distortion-quite low for a lens of this focal length.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall 2x teleconverter 01F by dme on Mon November 18, 2013 | Rating: 9 View more reviews 
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Views: 43492
Reviews: 9
I bought one of these new, which I used with a 46A, and bought another more recently that lives on my 52A. The price is the average of the two. The 01F fits on all of the Adaptall lenses I have tried it on. With one exception, my experience is that the less Purple Fringing the base lens exhibits, the better the results with 01F. I have tried the 03A, the 103A, the 104A, the 46A and the 52A. The 46A exhibits the least purple fringing, and this is the one the 01F works best with. There seems to be no loss of sharpness; just a drop in contrast. The exception is the 52A in macro mode. 1:1 macro without having to poke the target with the lens. At distances of several metres and more, my 52A exhibits more purple fringing than any of the other lens listed, but in macro mode the fringing isn't apparent at all. I find mounting and unmounting this thing tricky. The 01F goes on the lens, and the Adaptall mount goes on the 01F. So I leave one on the 52A all the time, since I don't use the 52A for anything else.

Review of: Soligor C/D 7 Auto TC 2X 2X by dme on Sun November 17, 2013 | Rating: 9 View more reviews 
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Views: 20354
Reviews: 2
This lens is identical to the Tamron F-system 2x element teleconverter and the DOI 2x 7 element teleconverter. I own copies of all three, and the glassware and the distance front to back are identical I also own four other designs of 2x 7 element teleconverter, that I can distinguish by the distance front to back.
  • A Kiron MC 7 and a Teleplus MC 7, which have Pentax A connections and which are identical
  • An Aico Telemore 2 M42 7 element
  • A Komura PK 7 element
  • A Komura Telemore M42 7 element
They are listed in the usual descending order of sharpness, as observed by myself. The Soligor C/D/Tamron F-System/DOI 2x usually slot in between the Kiron/Teleplus and the Aico. The order varies depending on which lens they are attached to. The Aico goes particularly well on my astronomical telescope, for instance. The Kiron/Teleplus are usually the sharpest, but they introduce obvious Lateral Chromatic Aberration, the kind that is easily removed in Post Processing. The Soligor C/D/Tamron F-system/DOI 2x do not. I use them on my Tamron QZ-35M to make the macro 1:1. But to re-iterate, some of my lenses don't take to teleconverters at all, and the teleconverter ranking isn't always the same. This device is capable of excellent results, and if it doesn't, you may find a different Teleconverter will give you better results.

Review of: Kiron Matchmate MC 1.5x teleconverter by dme on Sun November 17, 2013 | Rating: 9 View more reviews 
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Views: 11867
Reviews: 2
I find this to be a splendid piece of kit. It produces good results on every lens I have tried it on, including the Tair-3, which I find doesn't take to any of my 2x teleconverters. I find the Kiron Matchmate 1.5x to be sharper than the DOI 1.5 Teleconverter, and it is also sharper than the Pentax 1.7x AF. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it works especially well with the Kiron 70-210mm zoom lenses I own, although I believe that the lens that it matched was the Kiron 70-150mm zoom. The only drawback, which applies equally to the Kiron 7 element 2x teleconverter, is that it introduces clearly visible Lateral Chromatic Aberration, the kind that is readily removed in Post Processing. It is quite noticeable that the DOI 1.5x does not, although the Kiron produces an obviously sharper image.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall-2 Aspherical (71A/171A) 28-200mm F3.8-5.6 by dme on Sun November 17, 2013 | Rating: 6 View more reviews 
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Views: 34273
Reviews: 4
Mine is the Model 71A. It appears to be in perfect condition. I bought this because it was one of the Adaptalls that I hadn't yet acquired. The earlier reviews seem on the money. Compared with my Cosina 28-210mm f3.5-5.6 MC Macro:
  • The Tamron is mechanically superior, and at 28mm it is more compact
  • The Tamron is slower
  • The Tamron isn't quite as sharp as the Cosina wide open from 28-50mm
  • The Tamron focuses a little closer, but minimum focus is still 2.1 metres except in Close Focus mode
  • The Tamron gets relatively worse as the focal length gets longer. By 200mm wide open the Tamron pictures are unusable wide open
  • The Tamron bokeh is truly awful
  • The Cosina colours are much nicer
Not recommended unless you are collecting Tamron Adaptalls ...

Review of: Cosina MC Macro ----- 28-105mm F2.8-3.8 by dme on Sun November 10, 2013 | Rating: 9 View more reviews 
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Views: 23692
Reviews: 1
After finding a Cosina-made Vivitar 28-210mm manual zoom to be optically excellent, I was drawn to this fast consumer zoom, which was obviously mechanically related. $30 on e-Bay got me a P30, a Pentax 35-70mm f3.5-4.5, and this lens. However, I have allocated the entire purchase price to this item, since I don't see myself ever using the other bits and pieces. The Ricoh pin prevented me mounting the lens when it first arrived. I undid the four screws that retain the mount, jammed a piece of cocktail stick in between a leaf spring and the underside of the mount to pull the pin down, and reassembled the lens. The components this lens has in common with the roughly contemporaneous 28-210mm were obvious. The mechanics don't exactly inspire confidence. Zoom creep is apparent. However, this lens is in much better shape than my 28-210mm. Zoom and focus are smooth and light, yet nicely damped. Focus throw, apart from the 'Macro' mode, is only 90 degrees, but the lens is fast enough and sharp enough for me to be able to focus it accurately manually with confidence. I suspect that f2.8 is a bit optimistic. Compared with the Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 at f2.8, this lens at 28mm tends to be given longer exposures. However, it is definitely faster than any of the f3.5 zooms that I have. It seems to be just as sharp as the Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 over their common focal range. However, the Tamron images always look better when I pixel peep; something to do with the colours being a little less saturated and contrast not being as good on the Cosina. Or perhaps it is veiling flare from the large front element and no hood. Not that the Cosina colours or contrast seem particularly deficient. Resized to a laptop computer screen, it is hard to see any difference. Compared with the Pentax FA 28-105mm f4-5.6 Power Zoom, the Cosina is a stop faster, and yet is sharper. However, if the light is good enough, the Pentax images are more pleasing; this is definitely down to the colours. The Cosina enjoys a big advantage in weight and bulk over the Pentax. The Pentax, though, focuses much closer. The Cosina's 72mm front element is very exposed. I haven't tried using a hood, but it may well help. The 5 foot minimum focus restricts the lens's usefulness in-doors. Overall, highly recommended.

Review of: Cosina ( Vivitar ) Macro ----- 28-210mm F3.5-5.6 by dme on Fri October 25, 2013 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Views: 50249
Reviews: 6
This was so cheap that I had to give it a go. To start with, it seemed useless; it wouldn't focus to infinity. However, I was astonished at the size of the JPEGs it created with objects that were close enough to focus on, so after a couple of false starts, I found that by removing the mount assembly, I got access to a ring that moved the rear optical group nearer to or further from the camera. Through a process of trial and error, I managed to get infinity focus at 28mm, and the other focal lengths sorted themselves out as well. The lens is mostly plastic. It seems that the macro settings are only supposed to be selectable at 200mm, but it is possible to force the zoom back with brute force when it shouldn't be; evidence of a certain flimsiness. Someone must have seen the need to disassemble this lens before I got hold of it to have messed up the infinity focus. Excepting the macro mode, the full focus throw is only 90 degrees, but the lens is sharp enough and fast enough at 28mm for it to appear to snap in to focus. The lens suffers from zoom creep, but its compact size makes it easy to clamp the zoom with my fingers when I have it where I want it. I find it very difficult to distinguish pictures taken with this lens from pictures taken with the Pentax P FA SMC 28-105mm f4-5.6 Powerzoom when pixel peeping. The JPEGs are the same size, the bokeh looks the same, the colours look the same. The Pentax contrast is slightly better, the fringes on out of focus highlights are slightly narrower on the Cosina. I usually prefer the Pentax picture, but not always. The Cosina lens is sharp all the way to its maximum focal length, although contrast is slightly lacking compared with the Adaptall-2 70-210mm f3.8-4 model 46A at the long end. But the main advantage of the 46A is f4 versus f5.6, and the reduction in camera shake hand held. If I stop the 46A down to f5.6, it enjoys hardly any benefit at all. The additional motion blur makes the pictures barely distinguishable. The maximum focal length is less than that of the 46A. It is also less than the Samyang 28-200 f4-5.6 at its 200mm focal length. Photodo tested the later Cosina 28-210mm AF, and found its maximum focal length was only 191mm. I can believe that of this one as well. The Samyang 28-200 f4-56 is inches longer in terms of its minimum size, is much heavier, is much better built, and is nearly as sharp. But it's harder to focus, and most annoyingly, all high contrast edges have a pronounced blue fringe. The Samyang gives images resized to a laptop screen a pronounced blue cast, though this isn't apparent pixel peeping except at the high contrast edges. EDIT: I have now added the Tamron Adaptall 71A 28-200mm f3.8-5.6 Aspherical to my Adaptall collection, and find that this Cosina is faster and sharper than the 71A. Of the three, the Cosina, the Samyang and the Tamron, the Cosina wide open is both fastest and sharpest, the Tamron is second sharpest, but the Tamron appears to be slower than the Samyang. The Cosina's Macro mode is scarcely worthy of the name; it's just that the lens focuses a little closer at 200mm. I haven't been troubled by flare, though the Cosina's exposed 72mm front element suggests that I would be if I got the sun anywhere near the frame. The major drawback of the Cosina is its 2.6 metre minimum focus distance when not in Macro mode. The lens is useless indoors as a consequence. But its performance as a walkabout lens on a fine day is impeccable. I am unclear as to the relationship of this lens to the AF version also reviewed on this site. This lens is a one touch, the AF is a two touch zoom, the AF claims a minimum focal length of 1.8 metres whilst this lens has 2.6 metres not counting the additional close focus capability. Photodo found the Cosina AF lens to be markedly inferior to the Pentax PZ FA 28-105mm f4-5.6, whilst I find the manual lens to be almost the same. But the MF and AF Cosina weigh the same. Anyway, highly recommended.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall-2 CF Macro (17A) 35-70mm F3.5 by dme on Tue October 15, 2013 | Rating: 9 View more reviews 
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Views: 70948
Reviews: 8
The marketing tag-line when I bought this in the early 80's was "Sharp as a prime, and fast enough", and, except for flash photography at school plays, I agree. I hardly used my semi-auto Takumar 55mm f2.2 lens again. The 17A handles beautifully; smooth, nicely damped focus. Two touch zoom, so no problems with zoom creep. I used the 17A initially on an S1, and then a few years later when the S1 needed a service, I bought a P30N, and bought a pair of PKA adapters for this and my 46A. The 17A must be extremely rugged. My son took it across India, Thailand, Australia, New Zealand and Fiji during his gap year, and my daughter carted it around East Africa. It never had a UV filter on it, but the glass remains unscratched. The front element seemed huge when I bought it (the filter ring is 58mm, whilst my Takumar was 46mm) but although I never used a hood, flare was never a problem. There is perceptible distortion at 35mm. The S1 doesn't have any focusing aids; in that respect it is like today's digital SLR's. However, the 17A is parfocal, so I could focus at 70mm, and then zoom out, and this strategy works just as well on a DSLR. The 17A is sharp wide open; as sharp as the Pentax F 35-70mm f3.5-4.5, with better contrast as well. I bought a Pentax FA 28-90mm f3.5-5.6 to use when my son went off round the world, and I continued to use the Pentax thereafter, because I preferred the Pentax colours, the additional zoom range proved useful on film, and the additional sharpness of the 17A isn't noticeable in snaps. At f3.5, I think the bulkier QZ-35M has an edge in sharpness, but the QZ-35M isn't parfocal, so the 17A is easier to focus accurately at wider angles. The Pentax M 35-70mm f2.8-3.5 is sharper than either, but rather bulkier (and somewhat more expensive today on eBay). The macro mode of the QZ-35M is superior to the 17A as well. I have reviewed the Pentax M 35-70mm f2.8-3.5, and the Tamron QZ-35M as well as this lens. I gave the QZ-35M the lowest rating of the three, but in fact today I use it the most. The reasons are, I guess, that I find:
  • 35-70mm is just too restricting on APS-C; too much overlap with my faster Tamron 17-50mm f2.8
  • I miss having the QZ-35M macro capability if I haven't brought it or the 72B with me
Be that as it may, I still think the 17A is a superb piece of kit. Highly recommended.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall-2 (03B) 135mm F2.5 by dme on Wed October 9, 2013 | Rating: 10 View more reviews 
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Views: 80386
Reviews: 14
I bought one on e-Bay with a network of fine scratches on the front element. The image wasn't quite up with the CZJ Sonnar 135mm f3.5, but it is a stop faster. I have always wondered how much difference damage to the front element makes to the image, so I bought a second copy for the same price with clear glass. The difference is dramatic. The second lens with clear glass more than matches the Sonnar, and it is still a stop faster. Bokeh is lovely and smooth, I haven't noticed aberration, colours are rich. The focusing is nicely damped, but in good light, I find it is easier to nail the focus with the Sonnar, presumably because the depth of field is greater. As with the Sonnar, care is needed with portraits; pores and pimples can be rendered mercilessly. It works well for live stage performances. The Close Focus isn't that great; the 72B and the macro settings on the QZ-35M, the 52A and the CZ-38M are better. Overall, highly recommended.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall-2 SP (27A) 28-80mm F3.5-4.2 by dme on Sun October 6, 2013 | Rating: 7 View more reviews 
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Views: 73334
Reviews: 15
I bought this lens together with a 40A and no useful caps or mounts; the price paid quoted is half the total for the two. The Zoom ring on my copy is rather stiff (though it has freed up a bit as I have used it) but the glass is clear. Wide open, the 27A is nearly as good as the Pentax F 28-80 f3.5-4.5 at 28mm, and becomes obviously more inferior as the focal length increases. This deterioration makes manual focusing tricky. Stopped down to f 8, it is comparable to the Pentax F 28-80; good (if I've got the focus right). The only feature of the 27A that I find to be demonstrably superior to the Pentax F 28-80 is its shorter minimum focus distance. The 27A is similar in profile to the old Tamron QZ-35M, but it is slower (the QZ-35M is notionally f2.8-3.5) takes bigger filters (67mm versus 62mm) and the QZ-35M takes better Macro shots. Unless, like me, you are trying to collect these things, I cannot see the point in buying this lens. You can buy an Autofocus Pentax lens with identical f-stop and aperture range that isn't inferior for about the same as you would pay for this lens plus an Adaptall/Adaptall 2 PK adapter, and for much less than you'd pay for this lens plus the (not recommended, by the way) PKA adapter.

Review of: Vivitar TX / fixed / t-mount 400mm F5.6 by dme on Tue September 17, 2013 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Views: 84101
Reviews: 7
I bought this for the PK TX mount that came with it. As the seller had promised, the lens had lots of fungus right in the middle of all the forward elements. Fortunately none was apparent on the rearward elements, and since the lens handled so well I resolved to clean it, and I am glad that I did. The lens came with its original retail packaging, so I can confidently assert that the optic is 8 elements in 8 groups, not 5 in 5 as indicated above. As mentioned below, the lens was made by Tokina, and it was succeeded by one that is more compact and lighter, without a tripod mount, and with a 72mm rather than a 77mm filter. The later lens is more convenient for hiking, and I think a little sharper wide open (it is hard to judge with manual focus, 400 mm and f5.6) but this lens has the edge for contrast and colour. I especially like shots when the target is within 30 m or so; excellent colour and contrast. I use it mostly on slow-moving or stationary birds at as close to the minimum focus distance (6.1 m) as I can get, for which I would say it excels. It is also good for capturing details of landscapes or citiscapes. Candid shots from distance (if you can be candid with a foot of camera and lens sticking out in front of you!) haven't been as successful. I haven't tried to use it for sports. I don't see any fringing around edges that are in focus, or when the target is less than about 20m away, even when the lens is wide open. Some fringing can be apparent along high contrast out-of-focus edges when the target is further away. Bokeh is neutral; it just looks out of focus. The lens works well with the Pentax 1.7x AF converter in bright sunlight, and indeed, with teleconverters generally. A number of reviewers have mentioned fungus, to the extent that I wonder if this lens is especially prone to it. Only last night a copy of this lens was sold on e-Bay UK (for $25) that was similarly afflicted. However, it is very easy to remove fungus from the forward elements; just unscrew the nameplate and everything drops out. Someone else mentioned the annoying way the original metal lens cap drops off; I concur. The tripod bush spares the camera mount from the full weight of the lens; useful. I like the 120 degree throw of the focus ring. It helps get the focus precise, if your target will oblige you by staying put. I don't mind the weight of this lens, but it won't fit in my small camera bag. The 72 mm version does. However, if I am taking a back pack this lens goes. Highly recommended.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall (SZ-38 and CZ-38M) 38-100mm F3.5 by dme on Mon September 2, 2013 | Rating: 5 View more reviews 
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Views: 18379
Reviews: 2
I bought this lens to fill the gap in my collection. My copy dates from 1978, and the body of the lens is quite worn. The UV filter has a splodge of bright red nail polish on it. However, the glass is perfect. I had no great expectations of this lens, and it did not exceed them. The lens I own with the most similar range is the Pentax PZ 28-105mm f4-5.6, which is the best of the Pentax consumer zooms I own. Compared with the Pentax:
  • Sharpness is similar (and bear in mind, it is more than a stop faster at the long end)
  • But the contrast of the CZ-38M is much inferior, and the overall IQ is inferior. The CZ-38M improves with stopping down, but doesn't match the Pentax.
  • The CZ-38M colours are comparable to those of the Pentax, so good.
  • Bokeh is mostly OK; background out-of-focus highlights stand out a little, but they aren't offensive.
I really like the macro; lovely colours, and the whole frame is sharp, even at f3.5. The A/M switch is, of course, a plus, but I doubt that I will use this lens much.

Review of: Tokina ( Hoya )RMC / SL 400mm F5.6 by dme on Wed July 10, 2013 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Views: 64721
Reviews: 6
Mine is branded as a Mitsuki, but it is obviously this lens. My copy has an M42 rather than a K mount and a Manual/Auto slide. I keep a no-name infinity focus M42 adapter permanently attached. The $3 M42 adapter had to be filed down to mount on my camera bodies, but the lens and the adapter mount securely, and with the adapter's spring latch removed the lens/adapter combo demounts easily as well. Using the lens's Manual/Auto slide, it is possible to manually use the camera in aperture priority at any aperture. Metering on my Samsung GX20 is accurate. Metering on my Pentax K-X is hopeless. It under exposes by more than 3 stops, more than I can dial in with exposure compensation. I have to set shutter speed and aperture manually. My copy has some fungus on the internal focus elements. It isn't that easy to spot the fungus, but it cannot be cleaned off without taking the whole lens to pieces, so it is going to stay. Bear this in mind; the fungus may be affecting the quality of the images that I obtain. My images from this lens are sharp. It's not a scientific assessment, but if the focus is right the images from this lens wide open are sharper than anything I can manage with wider lenses plus teleconverters, or my other Tokina-made f5.6 400mm lens (a Vivitar TX). However, the contrast and colour from this lens are weak. I invariably have to increase both contrast and saturation in PP to produce a pleasing result. I'm not troubled by Chromatic Aberrations or Fringing at any aperture, though I mostly use this lens at maximum aperture to maximise the shutter speed, and because my Minetar 400mm f6.3 gives me more pleasing results when this lens and the Minetar are shot at the same aperture setting. This lens has no integral tripod mount, but the lens is light enough (950 gm) for it to be possible for the cameras to be mounted to the tripod rather than the lens being mounted to the tripod, with satisfactory results. On a sunny day, you don't need a tripod with this lens outdoors; it is likely to prove fast enough. I've never noticed the bokeh at all; it is entirely unexceptional. The focus throw is only 90 degrees. In spite of the relatively bright aperture, accurate manual focusing is easier with the slower Minetar, and with another Tokina-made 400mm f5.6 lens I own (a Vivitar 400 f5.6 TX) whose focus throw is 120 degrees. Recommended.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall 1 (Z250) 80-250mm F3.8 by dme on Sat July 6, 2013 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Views: 19918
Reviews: 2
My Z250 looks very like the one pictured, but has a 5 digit rather than a 6 digit serial number, and seems to behave a little differently to the copy reviewed above. The metal work and glass are beautiful and unmarked, but the rubber zoom and focus rings have utterly perished. Oh for the 'cheap' plastic of the Adaptall-2 46A. The Z250 is heavy (1.25 Kg), but I find this helps dampen out shake. Focus and zoom both feel good. f3.8 is bright in the viewfinder, but the lack of contrast makes it difficult for me to focus on exactly what I want. The Z250 comes with a useful integral hood and a tripod mount. The tripod mount is at the centre of balance when the lens is attached to the K-X (though I have sadly lost the lock-nut with its Tamron logo). Less stress on the mount, methinks. I have compared the Z250 with the Adaptall 80-250mm f3.8-4.5 QZ-250M, the Adaptall-2 75-250mm f3.8-4.5 104A, the Adaptall 2 SP 60-300mm f3.8-5.6 23A, the Tokina SX-Z 60-300mm f4-5.6, the Sigma 75-300mm f4.5-5.6 λ-2 (lambda-2), Sigma 75-300mm f4.5-5.6 APO and the Sigma 70-300mm f4-5.6 DG. Compared with all of these other lenses, the Z250 lacks contrast. Colours, however, are good, and compare well with any of the above. All round, the Z250 is the weakest of them all at the short end. At the long end, the Z250 holds its own better in this company, bearing in mind it is the fastest of these lenses. Hand-held at 250mm, my shots do not necessarily improve as I stop the Z250 down; possibly I am losing in extra camera shake what I hope to gain in resolution. However, on a bright sunny day, I can set the thing to f8, and it does well across the entire zoom range. At 250mm and wide open, my Z250 exhibits smooth bokeh. It handles background highlights better than any of the others. My Z250 produces little offensive fringing. The lack of fringing surprised me after reading the previous review, but shots of climbing roses against a sunny sky, and a blackbird on a garden branch with leaves and the sky behind, difficult situations both, showed little fringing of any kind. And the clincher; the Z250 works really well with the Pentax 1.7x AF converter; better even than the QZ-250M. I can discern detail in pictures taken with the converter that isn't there if I simply digitally enlarge an image taken at 250mm, regardless of which of these other lenses I start with, and there is little chromatic aberration anywhere. Thus, the Z250 becomes a 135-425mm f6 semi-autofocus zoom lens. For $15 plus the $80 for the Pentax 1.7x AF converter.

Review of: Tokina SZ-X 60-300mm F4-5.6 by dme on Sun June 23, 2013 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Views: 48101
Reviews: 4
https://www.pentaxforums.com/gallery/images/47071/1_tok_sz-x_60-300f4-5.6_ma.jpg (Administrators, please feel free to move the photo to the lens description). I bought this from a shop website for £5. It was described as being in poor condition, but it came with a 6 month guarantee, and in truth it is in better condition than many of my e-Bay 'bargains'; focus and one-touch zoom are a bit stiff, but the glass is clear, the aperture is snappy and there is zero zoom creep. Although it is light, it still feels well made. It has almost all metal construction. In order to use it, I had to remove a shroud on the mount that protects the aperture lever and which snags on a DSLR, but the lens has an A setting that works. Wide open it is sharp at all focal lengths. The sharpness is very similar to that of the Tamron SP 60-300mm f4-5.6. At the shorter focal lengths the Tamron may have a slight edge, but at 300mm the advantage may be with the Tokina, though they are close. The Tamron may be more contrasty, but the Tokina shows less fringing. Compared with the Tamron, images with the Tokina have a greenish cast. I like the colours from my Sigma 75-300mm f4.5-5.6 APO and the Sigma 70-300mm f4-5.6 DG AF better than either the Tamron or the Tokina. I find the Tamron a little easier to focus, I think because the focus has a longer throw, but the Tokina isn't difficult. The Tokina is shorter, lighter and fatter than the Tamron, lighter than the slower Sigma 75-300mm f4.5-5.6 APO, and about the same weight as the Sigma 70-300mm f4-5.6 DG AF. And much, much cheaper. Highly recommended if you don't want or need autofocus.

Review of: Vivitar Macro Focusing 75-205mm F3.8 by dme on Sat June 8, 2013 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Views: 151611
Reviews: 25
I have the version pictured. Mine is in good, but well-used condition, with clean optics. I also have the Kiron Series 1 70-210mm f3.5, and a fleet of Adaptall and Adaptall-2 lenses with similar specifications, with which to compare it. Note first that the Kiron-made Series 1 70-210 f3.5 would itself be more accurately described as the 75-205 f3.8. The two lenses are similar in length and appearance, but this one is much lighter, takes a 62mm rather than a 67mm filter, and doesn't have the cumbersome Macro mode mechanism of the Series 1. Just like the Kiron-made Vivitar Series 1 70-210 f3.5:
  • It is better at the short end
  • There is an enormous improvement in image quality when stopped down to f5.6, so much so that I don't ever use it wide open; I would use the Tamron 46A instead.
  • There is much less fringing than with the Tamron 46A, 103A, 104A, 03A or 52A, and the Sigma 70-300mm f4-5.6.
It (and most everything else) wins over the Series 1 whenever weight is at a premium. The Series 1 has the advantage over this lens in terms of:
  • Colour (although the difference is slight)
  • Working with the Kiron Teleconverters (the 2x MC7 and the 1.5x Matchmate), where I find the extra weight of the Series 1 makes it easier to hold things steady. I have obtained images I was happy with hand-held with the Series 1 with the 2x MC7 zoomed to 400mm with an exposure of 1/8th of a second. I don't seem to be able to hold the lighter lenses as steady.
The Tamrons and the Sigma have a slight advantage in sharpness even when the Vivitar is stopped down, but the difference is only noticeable when pixel-peeping. So, a solid 8.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall ( Chinon, Alpa ) (Z-210, CZ/QZ-210 85-210mm F4.5 by dme on Sat June 8, 2013 | Rating: 6 View more reviews 
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Views: 25169
Reviews: 3
This is one of the last Adaptall lenses before the launch of the Adaptall-2. Mine is in perfect condition. Focus and zoom are silky smooth. In appearance it looks just like the QZ-150M and the QZ-250M, but it is intermediate in size. It shares their excellent build. It is acceptably sharp wide open, and JPEG image sizes are similar to those produced with the 70-210mm f3.8-4 46A, or the Sigma 70-300mm f4-5.6. However:
  • The 46A and the Sigma colours are nicer
  • The 46A is appreciably faster
  • The QZ-210M exhibits much more fringing
  • The QZ-210M bokeh can be multi-coloured when I don't expect it to be!
The QZ-210M's macro mode reduces the minimum focus distance, the A/M switch is a plus, it costs next to nothing, and its handling is exemplary, but I can't see any reason for preferring it to the 46A, the 03A, the 103A, or the contemporary Vivitar/Kirons, all of which are faster.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall-2 (20A) 70-150mm F3.5 by dme on Tue May 28, 2013 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Views: 52776
Reviews: 6
This lens replaced the 02A, which was itself a facelift for the QZ-150M, in the Adaptall Lens range. Compared to the older lenses (whose behaviour I find to be indistinguishable):
  • It weighs a quarter less than the 02A (which is itself similar in size and weight to the 46A 70-210mm f3.8-4).
  • It is 25mm shorter (about the same length as the Pentax-M 75-150mm f4)
  • It is a one touch zoom rather than two, and doesn't have a Macro button; instead, it continuously focuses into Macro mode. My copy has no zoom creep. The focus feels 'light' compared with the 02A (and the Pentax-M 75-150mm f4) but it is positive, and doesn't seem out of place given the 20A's dinky-ness.
  • It is slower (more like f4 than f3.5).
  • It does not go as wide (it is closer to the 75 mm of the Pentax-M 75-150mm f4 than the 70mm of the 02A or the 46A)
  • It does not go as long (it is very close to the 150 mm of the Pentax-M 75-150mm f4, but the 02A goes longer).
  • Wide open, it is no sharper than the 02A, and thus not as good as the Pentax-M 75-150mm f4.
  • Stopped down, it is able to match the Pentax-M 75-150mm f4 for sharpness at f8.
  • Contrast wide open is a little better than the 02A, but is much better than the 02A when both are stopped down to f8. It still isn't as good as the Pentax-M 75-150mm f4, though.
However, I feel the 20A is better than that bald list might have you believe. I find I usually prefer otherwise identical pictures taken with the 20A to versions taken with the 02A, and sometimes I prefer the pictures taken with the 20A to those taken with the Pentax-M 75-150mm f4, even though it never surpasses the Pentax for sharpness, or matches it for contrast. Although the 02A is faster than either, I do not find the advantage that the 02A has of almost half a stop at the short end that useful. So a solid 8 for the 20A.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall (QZ-825M/QZ-250M) 80-250mm F3.8-4.5 by dme on Sat May 25, 2013 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Reviews: 3
My copy of this lens is pristine, other than for a couple of scratches to the enamel of the built in hood. It looks much smarter than the one photographed above. Apart from the barrel being 62mm rather than 58mm, and the fact that there is a macro button rather than Continuous Focusing in to macro, it handles very like the two touch 52A 70-210mm f3.5-4; it has the same quarter turn from 5 foot to infinity. The focus is nicely damped. I'm really impressed with it at the long end. It stays faster to longer than the 104A 75-250 f3.8-4.5, and shows less fringing in high contrast scenes (but still more than I would like). The detail captured is as good as anything else I have at this focal length. It works well with the Pentax 1.7x AF converter. Colours are a bit subdued. Bokeh is fussy if there are out of focus highlights in the background beyond the plane of focus, otherwise it is fine. It makes a better job of things in the foreground

Review of: Tamron Adaptall (QZ-35M) 35-80mm F2.8-3.5 by dme on Thu May 23, 2013 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Reviews: 2
This must be the ancestor of the highly regarded Adaptall-2 01A, with which it shares the broad outline of its specification, and which is only 2 years newer (1980 versus 1978). However, as an f2.8 zoom I can only compare it with the Pentax-M 35-70mm f2.8-f3.5 and the Tamron 17-50mm f2.8. My (fungus-affected) QZ-35M suffers by comparison. Wide open contrast is much less than either the Pentax-M 35-70mm f2.8-3.5 or the Tamron 17-50mm f2.8; the images are sort-of glowy. Ultimate resolution is closer, at least at the short end, but the lack of contrast makes it difficult for me to focus the QZ-35M manually, even though the viewfinder is bright. EDIT: most of the fungus turned out to be on the second and third glass elements from the camera end, and on the third element from the front. I was able to get the first three and the last two elements out quite easily (the retaining rings have indentations for keys), and clean it off. The glowy-ness is now much reduced (though goodness knows what the collimation is now like, and I may have messed up infinity focus; see below) and it is now easier to focus. But the Pentax-M 35-70mm f2.8-3.5 and the Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 retain their advantage, particularly with respect to contrast. At f5.6 and 35mm, the contrast is better, but still not as good as the Pentax-M 35-70mm f2.8-3.5 at f2.8. Whereas with the constant aperture f3.5 17A, zooming in helps to nail the focus, with the QZ-35M zooming in doesn't help, perhaps because the image is getting darker, and certainly because the lens is far from being parfocal, to the extent that the markings on the barrel are hardly any help when the lens is zoomed right out. At the 35mm end, as you focus closer, you quite obviously zoom in. This effect becomes less pronounced as you zoom towards 80mm. When I mount the lens on an analogue body with a split screen focusing aid, I observe that my copy cannot achieve infinity focus at 80mm, though it is able to at all other focal lengths; I don't know if this is a consequence of my fungus removal efforts, or a feature. Stopping down (easy with the M/A switch) makes the image sharper, but the depth of field increases. I haven't been able to achieve a situation where the lens 'snaps in' to focus. The focus direction is opposite to Pentax, and only 1/4 turn takes you from closest focus to infinity. Wide open, high contrast edges exhibit marked blue fringing. However, I have nothing but praise for the macro. It goes to 1:2, and the images look super. With a 2x Teleconverter, the macro goes to 1:1, but which teleconverter? This lens predates the 01F. I get the best results with a Tamron F System SP for K mount and the 01F is almost as good. However, both of these (and more so the others that I tried), give pronounced Lateral Chromatic Aberration (where the red, green and blue are in focus, but the images are slightly different sizes). It is easily resolved in PP, but I would prefer it not to be there in the first place. FURTHER EDIT: I have persevered with this lens because I have found that the combination of low contrast but good ultimate resolution has produced some interesting, nostalgic-looking townscapes and flattering portraits. The focusing is still a struggle, but at least the viewfinder is bright, and I have got better at it. So I have upped the sharpness rating from 6 to 7, and my overall rating from 7 to 8. FURTHER FURTHER EDIT: I have now acquired an 01A, and can now compare and contrast the 01A and the QZ-35M.
  • The 01A is in reality a 36mm-75mm, whilst the QZ-35M is a 37mm-80mm, so the 01A goes a little wider and the QZ-35M goes longer.
  • The 01A is a little lighter and a little shorter, but these differences don't amount to much
  • The QZ-35M is faster
  • Wide open, the QZ-35M is sharper than the 01A in the centre at all focal lengths. But the 01A is sharper in the corners.
  • The 01A gets much better as it is stopped down. The QZ-35M improves, but not so much.
  • The 01A gets better as it goes longer. The QZ-35M doesn't seem to.
  • The QZ-35M is much more affected by flare than the 01A
  • The 01A contrast is better
  • The 01A exhibits hardly any Chromatic Aberration. The QZ-35M does, particularly at longer focal lengths
  • The QZ-35M macro goes to 1:2, whilst the 01A only goes to 1:2.7. However, at 1:2, the QZ-35M exhibits lots of Lateral Chromatic Aberration
  • The QZ-35M has an M/A switch, the 01A doesn't
  • If you can find one, the QZ-35M seems to be much cheaper.
  • The 01A is a 2-touch zoom with continuous focusing into Macro. The QZ-35M is a one touch zoom with a macro switch that changes the zoom into the focus. So the 01A handles better.
  • Colours are similar
  • The 01A isn't parfocal, but it is much closer to being parfocal than the QZ-35M. So you can focus the 01A at 80 (well, 75) and zoom out, and the focus will only need a little tweak. With the QZ-35M, on the distance scale, 3m at 80mm becomes 2m at 35mm, to have the same point in focus. The 01A is easier to focus as a consequence.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall-2 (02A) 70-150mm F3.5 by dme on Sun May 12, 2013 | Rating: 6 View more reviews 
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Reviews: 1
As noted on www.adaptall-2.org, this lens is a reworking of the earlier (https://www.pentaxforums.com/userreviews/tamron-adaptall-70-150mm-f3-5-macro-zoom-qz-150m.html) Adaptall QZ-150M. It has the same shiny button to get you into Macro (Close Focus) mode, but it doesn't have the Manual/Auto slider of the earlier lens. My copy has clear glass, but has a significant ding in the integral lens shade, and generally looks to be in poorer condition than my mint copy of the earlier lens. The glass coatings look to be identical. Performance is also pretty much identical, allowing for copy variation and the punishment the newer lens has obviously taken. I rated the older lens a 7, so I am lopping off a point for the missing M/A slide.

Review of: Tokyo Koki tele-Tokina Minetar, Mamiya, Prinz- Ha 400mm F6.3 by dme on Tue April 23, 2013 | Rating: 9 View more reviews 
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Reviews: 2
I bought this with the aperture mechanism seized up (a previous owner had taken it to pieces and greased it!) to use with an infra-red night-vision scope. It was useless for this purpose; the visual field was too dark, and the depth of field was too shallow. But I put it on my camera, and was pleasantly surprised. So I took it all to bits, cleaned off the fungus, which had fortunately not etched the glass, discarded one of the 16 aperture blades which had lost one of its copper rivets, restored infinity focus and then put threadlock on the chewed up screws as I reassembled it. With the screw-in lens hood from the Photosniper, it is brilliant. It is longer than indicated (I measure 425 mm rather than 400 mm) and it's better than my two newer Tokina 400 f5.6 IF lenses (which admittedly are fungus-affected), and better than my wider telephotos when they are fitted with teleconverters. At f 6.3 the out of focus areas have lots of CA, but it is actually a feature rather than a problem. The CA is gone at f 8. It works well with Teleconverters, both 2x and 3x. The bokeh is brilliant. The preset mechanism means that aperture can be silently and infinitely adjusted, which is useful when using the Pentax K-x in Video mode.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall-2 (104A) 75-250mm F3.8-4.5 by dme on Thu April 18, 2013 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Reviews: 6
I bought this in the hope that it would work well with the Pentax 1.7x AF. It doesn't, but I found that I like it anyway. It isn't as sharp as the Sigma 70-300 4-5.6 DG AF, but it is faster at the long end, and the images have an attractive and dare I say a distinctive quality. The manual focus and the zoom control work very well, and it balances nicely on my Samsung GX-20 and Pentax K-x. Its optical scheme closely resembles the 103A 80-210mm. I find myself wishing that it had been given a facelift similar to that which led to the development of the 46A from the 103A, since a lens reflecting that degree of improvement would have been something special, but it is still pretty good.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall-2 (46A) 70-210mm F3.8-4 by dme on Thu April 18, 2013 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Reviews: 9
I bought this new in 1988 for something over £100; I can't remember what the exchange rate to dollars was back then so apologies if $150 is wildly wrong. I used it initially on an S1, and then bought a P3n and PK/A adapters for this and my 17A. I also bought an 01F 2x Teleconverter, and that was me until I went digital in 2006. The lens travelled the world with me, and later with my children, and never disappointed us. It has lost a rubber plug of unknown function on the grip, which exposes shiny metal beneath the hard plastic, and its pinch lens-cap disintegrated, but the glass remains unmarked, even though for most of that time it didn't boast a protective UV filter. In 2007 I bought a Samsung GX-20. This was my first autofocus SLR, so to begin with I used the 46A plus the 01F 2x Teleconverter (TC) to give me 140 to 420mm of zoom (adding or removing the TC is a pain, so I used a Samyang 70-210 f4.5-5.6 for less than 140 mm). Flare is an issue shooting towards the sun (and I lost the screw-on hood early on), and a maximum aperture of f 8 mandates a tripod if it isn't sunny, but this works fine. Then I bought a Pentax 80-320 f4.5-5.6, and various other auto-focus things, and the 46A went back in the cupboard. Where it stayed until I bought a Pentax 1.7x AF adapter, and found that it needs a K-style aperture lever to function. The cupboard already boasted a 52A, and a flurry of Oxfam and e-Bay activity added a pair of 103A's and a 104A. One of the 103A's is better than the other, but neither the 103A, the 52A nor the 104A can hold a candle to the 46A. The zoom range and the aperture for the 46A appear to be honestly quoted. The 52A, contrary to its claimed minimum f 3.5 aperture, seems to be the same as the 46A. My 103A's seem to be slower, and I would say are more like 200mm maximum than 210mm. (The 104A's apertures seem to be honestly quoted as well, although it might not quite go all the way to 250 mm, from comparisons with the Sigma 70-300 f4-5.6 DG AF). Unadorned, the 46A is the sharpest of these lenses. It matches the Sigma 70-300 mm f 4-5.6 DG AF over the range they have in common, although I prefer the Sigma colours; a bit more saturated perhaps. I haven't had the good fortune to try a 19AH, but according to the figures quoted on adaptall-2.org, the 46A is sharper than the 19AH as well, and not just wide open. The 19AH offers superior contrast, but not resolution. So what of their performance with the Pentax 1.7x AF adapter? Of all the Adaptall-2 lenses I tried, the 46A was the only one that it worked with acceptably. All of the others gave images that were ridiculously marred by fringing. The 46A images aren't exactly fringe free, but the combination of the 46A and Pentax 1.7x AF adapter (effective f 6.8) out-resolves the Sigma 70-300 f4-5.6 DG AF when the latter is at 300 mm (where the Sigma is at its weakest) and the program has chosen f 6.7. And the combination goes up to 357 mm. So the 46A may deserve promotion from the cupboard. But I may not bother with its PK/A adapter. Unlike the lenses, these have not lasted well, and neither of them still work properly after 25 years, if they ever did. A mechanical problem with one means that it can only communicate f 3.5 or f 4 maximum aperture to the body, whilst an electrical issue with the other means that it identifies all lenses as having a maximum aperture of f 4. But since the 17A is constant f 3.5, whilst the 46A is in effect constant f 4, I wouldn't have noticed ...

Review of: Tamron Adaptall-2 SP (52A) 70-210mm F3.5-4 by dme on Thu April 18, 2013 | Rating: 6 View more reviews 
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Reviews: 6
Although I didn't pay much for this lens, I confess it disappointed me, considering that it would have been much the most expensive of any of my Adaptall collection when new. I recently acquired the Pentax 1.7 AF converter. Not having done my research, I had intended to use it on my long primes, but these are all M42 or T-mount, so it didn't work. The converter wasn't a total waste, since it works very well on the Pentax M 50 f 1.4, but having struck out with my long tele's I took a close look at my Adaptalls, which are relatively fast for consumer-grade equipment, which is all I own. I own the 46A (from new 25 years ago), the 103A, the 104A, and this the 52A, and also the QZ-150M. I discovered that the 52A is slower than the QZ-150M (which is nominally constant f 3.5) at all their common focal lengths. In fact, the 52A aperture seems indistinguishable from that of the 46A, which is f 3.8 - f 4. Wide open (which was how I wanted to use them) the 46A is superior to the 52A at every focal length. The 46A was actually the only one I could consider using with the Pentax 1.7 AF converter; the fringing was bearable, and it retained its sharpness. With the 52A, the fringes had fringes! However, I found that adding the matching Adaptall-2 01F Teleconverter to my 52A transforms its behaviour. It is then sharp as you please, up to 10M anyway, and it gives 1:1 Macro. But now it is f 8. I have the 72B 90mm f 2.8 macro for 'close-up' macro, and the Sigma AF 70-300 has a useful macro mode that works well from further away, and it is auto-focus to boot, so having discovered that the 52A plus 01F make an excellent macro lens I don't ever use them!

Review of: Samyang ( Opteka, pro-Optics etc) 500mm F6.3 DX by dme on Wed April 17, 2013 | Rating: 9 View more reviews 
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Views: 76189
Reviews: 7
Mine is branded as a Falcon. In spite of the focal length, with a Samsung GX20 and Shake Reduction, the lens is hand-holdable at ISO 100 in bright sunlight, and I have obtained acceptable shots of goalmouth action from the top of a stadium under floodlights at ISO 800. Mine focuses way past infinity, to the extent that it still focuses to infinity with a 13mm extension tube. But then vignetting becomes apparent. It works well with 1.5x (the Kiron Matchmate 1.5x works better for me than DOI), 2x (the Kiron MC7 working best for me on this lens; the Kenko MC7 and Komura Telemore 95 MC7 II not being quite so good, then the DOI and Soligor C/D MC7 (which appear to be the same) then the older Telemore KMC7 and the Kenko MC4) and 3x (a Soligor working better for me than a Kenko) teleconverters, and it can still physically be hand held. But a tripod and mirror lockup or remote firing improve the hit rate. Although my images (of distant wading birds or buildings) can sometimes appear lacking in contrast, this seems to mostly be down to haze, since the contrast does not appear better on pictures of the same scenes taken with my refractive telephotos (which range up to 425mm without teleconverters). However, the saturation is definitely lower with the mirror lens. Manual focus can be tricky. The viewfinder isn't that bright at f 6.3, and the Depth of Field is thin. And not all of a butterfly on a bush at 3 metres will be in focus if the insect is large and not more or less square on to the lens; you cannot stop down to increase the Depth of Field. Catch-In-Focus and the Pentax-F Autofocus don't work because the T-mount doesn't feature an aperture lever. However, I don't want to overplay the brightness issue. Using this lens I have succeeded in taking pictures of rabbits and hares on hillsides in the late evening (using a tripod, remote and mirror lockup) that I couldn't see at all with my naked eye; the camera/lens combination is like a spotting scope. The donut bokeh is distracting if there are bright out of focus highlights in the frame, but not otherwise. In conclusion, I'm very pleased with it. UPDATE: I recently paid $20 on eBay to add a hood. The hood is solid aluminium, doubles the length of the lens when deployed, and when it is deployed it prevents the use of the lens cap. So the hood detracts somewhat from the handling. But it reverses over the lens in storage, and most importantly, improves the saturation and contrast by a worthwhile amount. So recommended. FURTHER UPDATE: Bob Atkins has this excellent review. http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/reviews/pro_optic_500_f6-3.html Of particular note is the comparison with the Tamron 500mm SP Mirror which I have now got hold of myself. The Tamron:
  1. Is smaller
  2. Is the same effective speed as the Samyang
  3. Has a larger depth of field
  4. Has slightly better sharpness
  5. Has much better contrast
  6. Hand held I'm hard to pressed to see evidence of point 4, and shooting raw and boosting contrast my pictures from the two lenses become virtually indistinguishable, but points 3 and 5 translate to easier manual focusing. Finally, the Tamron Adaptall mounts have (non-functional for this lens) aperture levers, and this means that, unlike any other mirror lens I have used, Catch-In-Focus and the Pentax-F Autofocus adapter do work with this lens if the light is good enough and there is sufficient contrast in the target.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall CZ715, CZ150, QZ150M 70-150mm F3.5-3.8 by dme on Tue March 19, 2013 | Rating: 7 View more reviews 
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Reviews: 2
The Tamron website suggests that this lens was sold from 1978 to 1980, so it was introduced before the Adaptall-2 range. My copy came in an e-Bay lot that was described as having sat in a desk in a school for decades. It shows no signs of the wear and tear it might have been expected to pick up over 35 years. It is built like a tank. It is compact, but with its mount it weighs as much as my Sigma 70-300. Unlike my Adaptall-2 70-210 model 52A, the maximum aperture seems to be conservatively stated at the 70 mm end. This lens is appreciably faster than the 52A over the entire focal range they have in common, and may be as fast as f 3.2 at 70 mm, from comparisons of open aperture exposure speeds chosen for other lenses. Images don't look soft, and they sharpen up if I stop the lens down, but wide-open the Sigma 70-300 DG is better (but slower, of course; f4 versus f3.5 or better). The macro mode is better thought of as 'Close Focus'; without it, you are stuck metres away. With it, you can get the sliding lens hood within a few centimetres of the target. The bokeh is good. Compared with the (slightly newer) Pentax M 75-150 f 4:
  • It is longer and heavier
  • It is faster
  • It isn't quite as sharp wide open (close though)
  • It suffers less from chromatic aberration
  • It has the close focus ability
  • I prefer the bokeh (not that I don't like the Pentax bokeh).
Having the M/A switch gives you an alternative to the 'Green Button' should you wish; a definite plus. To sum up, it seems nice, but dated.

Review of: Tamron SP MF MACRO 1:1 (72B) 90mm F2.8 by dme on Mon March 18, 2013 | Rating: 10 View more reviews 
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Reviews: 9
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=6547&pictureid=57395 At f2.8, it makes a nice portrait lens. Stopped down in macro mode, it is razor sharp. I use it with a plain PK Adaptall Mount. I have two PK/A mounts, and they are both useless on this lens. On one, one of the insulator plugs embedding a switchable contact has sunk in to the surface of the mount and no longer makes contact with the camera body, so any attached lens can only be read as an f3.5 or an f4, whilst the other, though externally sound, has an electrical problem (a loose connection?) within the body of the mount which means it can only be read as an f4. The sample picture (if I can work out how to upload it) is a full size crop of a JPEG straight from a Samsung GX20; no sharpening or post-processing of any kind. Shot at f5.6.

Review of: Tamron Adaptall ( Chinon ) (CT 135) 135mm F2.8 by dme on Sun March 3, 2013 | Rating: 9 View more reviews 
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Reviews: 4
This lens is pretty good. As an Adaptall rather than an Adaptall-2, it has an M/A switch, so you don't need the green button, or you can conveniently use the Adaptall M42 mount. However, I find the metering with my Samsung GX-20 unreliable with this lens if it isn't wide open; I get more accurate exposure if I meter wide-open, calculate what it should be stopped down, switch to Manual and dial in the calculated shutter speed. It gets sharper and the contrast improves as I stop down from 2.8 to 4. At f 4, it almost matches the CZJ 135/3.5; the detail is very similar, but the CZJ has slightly better contrast. I find both this lens and the CZJ to be less good at f 5.6 than at f 4; I don't know if it is focus shift, camera shake, or what. However, I find this lens to be inferior in every respect to the CZJ except for its faster maximum aperture. The CZJ focuses closer (1 m versus 1.5 m), takes a smaller filter (49 mm versus 55 mm), and is smaller and lighter.

Review of: Carl Zeiss Jena Sonnar MC - Zebra 135mm F3.5 by dme on Wed February 27, 2013 | Rating: 10 View more reviews 
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Reviews: 19
I can instantly tell the pictures I have taken with this lens; they have matchless detail and contrast. On my Samsung GX-20, the images don't get sharper as I stop down. This lens produced the largest JPEG ever to emerge from my camera when I missed focus on my intended target and ended up with 'Granite Rock On Beach Partially Obscured By Small Human Life-form'.

Review of: TAIR-3S - Fotosniper 12 ensemble 300mm F4.5 by dme on Mon February 25, 2013 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Reviews: 19
The picture shows the full Photosniper 3 kit, including the trigger mechanism, rifle stock and the bundled Zenit camera; I believe it was sold between 1974 and 1982. The big lens at the heart of it is the TAIR-3. Mine is rather battered, has quite a lot of dust in it, and is missing the trigger mechanism and stock. The other Photosniper on this site is the later Photosniper 12 based on the TAIR-3S. The maximum aperture is the same, but the lens tube is different. The focus wheel under the main body of the lens works well. In spite of the 1.6 Kg weight I have no difficulty hand-holding and manually following focus from the touchline of a Rugby match. The inscriptions on mine are all in Cyrillic; it self-identifies as a TAИP3-ФC 4,5/300 9668. If 9668 is a serial number either they didn't sell very many, or mine is earlier rather than later. Although it is an M42 lens, the M42 screw piece is attached in the same way as the outer piece of a T2 adapter is secured to its rotatable core, and it is the same depth. I managed to find a T2 adapter whose rotatable core matches the Tair 3 tube precisely, and so mine now has a PK bayonet. Wide open the images straight from the camera are somewhat lacking in contrast, although the detail is all there. This lens is sharper than my Sigma 70-300 f4-5.6. However, wide open, pixel peeping fine texture (eg. tree bark) that should be pretty much black reveals itself to be very dark purplish-reddish, whilst highlights acquire a turquoise tinge. Unfortunately, these defects are simply magnified when I attempt to use a 2x or 3x teleconverter; the image looks soft, and the CA becomes intrusive. On most of my lenses, the Kiron 7 element 2x and Kenko 7 element 2x converters clearly outperform the Kenko 4 element 2x teleconverter, but on this lens they are all equally bad. The 16 aperture blades ensure that the aperture is always round, and the bokeh is excellent. Because this lens, even with the T2-PK bayonet, lacks the aperture sense lever of a proper PK or PKA lens, the Pentax 1.7x AF adapter doesn't add autofocus. But I find the CA of images taken with this combination (510 mm f7.65) acceptable. Under challenging shooting conditions (hand-held in a strong wind) I was able to get sharper images with the Samyang 500 mm f6.3 mirror, though the differences aren't great (and neither are the photographs :(); the longer exposure time due to f7.65 versus f6.3, or even random variations in 'seeing' (a townscape shot on a misty evening in a strong wind with the clouds changing minute by minute) may explain this. Stacking the Pentax 1.7x AF adapter with a 1.5X PK Teleconverter (DOI or Kiron Matchmate) (which provides the necessary aperture lever) allows the AF to function, but the images are mushy. The two 1.5X Teleconverters I have tried by themselves actually work well. The Kiron Matchmate 1.5X gives a sharp image, but Lateral Chromatic Aberration is apparent. The DOI 1.5X doesn't give any lateral Chromatic Aberration, but is less sharp. I prefer the Kiron, but the DOI is perfectly acceptable, and detail is apparent that you cannot see if you simply increase the size of the base digital image by 50 percent. Overall, I recommend it.

Review of: SUN YS-24 24mm F2.8 by dme on Sun February 24, 2013 | Rating: 8 View more reviews 
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Reviews: 1
I bought this during my quest to equip myself with faster glass than the 18-55 mm kit lens on my Samsung GX-20 without shelling out $375 on the Tamron 17-50mm SP AF 2.8 XR DI II LD AF, and this is undoubtedly one of my successes. It is truly outstanding wide open close up, and although I eventually succumbed and bought the Tamron, I still use this for taking pictures of flowers close up. It focuses to less than 8 inches from the film plane, and the background gets wiped. The background with the Tamron just looks out of focus; this whips it to cream. I've never noticed any chromatic aberration. However, I make more use of the Vivitar TX 24mm f2.8 mark 2. Although the lenses are nominally the same focal length and maximum aperture, the Vivitar is wider and brighter. Wide open, and focused to infinity, the Vivitar is sharper, but close up this is as good, and it focuses closer. Using it to take available light pictures of a jazz band in a cellar, I found another problem. It is easy enough to distinguish the M-A ring, the aperture ring and the knurling on the body when you can see them, but in the gloom of the cellar bar I found it difficult to distinguish them by touch. I wonder if this lens is in essence the same as the Spiratone 24 mm f2.8 YS mount also reviewed in this category. The minimum focus is similar, the filter is the same, they both take the YS mount and the close behaviour of the Spiratone is remarked in the review.

Review of: Sigma DG Macro 70-300mm F4-5.6 by dme on Sun February 17, 2013 | Rating: 9 View more reviews 
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Views: 120518
Reviews: 31
I have enjoyed taking photos for 50 years, and shooting Pentax for 40, but I have never spent much money on my equipment, so although I can compare this lens to many others, I'd be surprised if any of them would be found in a professional arsenal. That said, I bought this new, and a second hand Pentax FA 80-320 (for slightly more than I paid for the new Sigma 70-300), with a view to keeping one for myself and giving one to my daughter. I played with them on holiday for a couple of weeks, and found I liked them both very much. The pictures didn't look the same, but I couldn't say I liked one more than the other. In the end I gave my daughter the Pentax, because I have longer lenses than 300, and she doesn't. Since then she has taken many fantastic shots with the Pentax on Safari in Africa, and I like much of what I have taken with the Sigma. Indoors with a big flash bouncing off the ceiling, outdoors with a Circular Polariser zooming in to landscapes and seascapes, and garden birds or butterflies on buddleias. I find the sensor noise on my Samsung GX-20 very annoying if I have the ISO set higher than 100. So trying to shoot my nephew playing Rugby didn't work. I got better results with the Tair 300, even though it weighs a ton, it wasn't on a tripod, and I was focusing manually. Since then, I have picked up a second-hand Pentax K-x, which I find acceptable at ISO 800, so I have now taken photos at Rugby matches with this lens that I felt were satisfactory. At 300 mm wide open (f 5.6), the Tair (f 4.5) captures more detail. The Revuenon (Tele-Ennalyt) (f 5.6) gets less. The Sigma 70-300 colours look nicer to my eye; more natural. The Sigma 75-300 APO gets less detail also, but its colours are nicer still (though possibly less natural). The Sigma 75-300 non-APO λ-2 also gets less detail; its colours more resemble the 70-300. With the 70-300, CA is apparent in high contrast OOF areas, this is the only time I notice CA. At 200 mm, only my Komine Vivitar 200 mm (f 3.5) captures more detail, but the Sigma 70-300 (f 4.5) colours are much nicer; you would think that the tigers at London Zoo are black and white if you'd seen the Komine images straight from the camera. Detail-wise, the Sigma 70-300 matches the Tamron Adaptall-2 70-210 Model 52A and the model 46A (both f 4), exceeds by a small margin the Pentax F 70-210 f4-5.6 and the Sigma 75-300 APO (f 4.5), and a larger margin the Sigma XQ 80-200 f3.5, which in turn is better than the Tokina 70-210 f4-4.5, and the Samyang 70-210 f4-5.6. Apart from the Komine, none of my motley array of 200 f 3.5 prime lenses match the Tamrons wide open. Again, I like the colours of the Sigma 75-300 APO the best. At 70 mm, my Sigma 70-300 captures more detail than my Pentax FAJ 28-80 f3.5-5.6, Pentax F 35-70 f3.5-4.5, Pentax FA 28-90 f3.5-4.5, Pentax FA 28-70 f4, Pentax F 28-80 f3.5-4.5 and Pentax FA 28-105 f4-5.6 PZ. Though I wouldn't necessarily say I prefer the Sigma to the Pentax images. I have primes that out-resolve my Sigma 70-300 when the primes are wide open at 300 mm, 200 mm and 135 mm (the CZJ Sonnar 135 f3.5), but I have many more (faster) primes that do not. So good if not matchless IQ, nice colours, and fast and accurate autofocus, make for a pleasing package. My son has the older version of this lens, the Non-APO 70-300 DL. He also obtains good, sharp, colourful results with it. Based on my experience of the colours from the APO 75-300, and how they differ from my non-APO copy of that lens, I would be interested in trying the APO version of this lens, but I am at a loss to understand why the non-APO lens is rated so poorly by so many others, based on the comparisons I can make with other lenses that are reviewed on this site that are more highly rated; the Pentax F 70-210 f4-5.6 for instance. I have tried this lens with the Kenko MC4 Pz-AF DG 2x teleconverter. In broad daylight autofocus works from 70-200mm, that is, as long as the wide-open aperture is less than or equal to f4.5. I can discern more detail with the teleconverter than I can without it, but you effectively get a 1.4x teleconverter increase in range (300mm to 400mm) for the cost of the 2x teleconverter 2 f stops brightness. But I'm happy for £20. UPDATE: I managed to pick up a Sigma 70-300mm f4-5.6 APO for £35, so I can finally comment on the differences. At 70mm on an APS-C D-SLR there is little between them; the APO seems to give slightly brighter colours is all I can see. The difference gets more pronounced as the focal length increases, but not by much. The MTF diagrams for the two lenses would suggest that most of the difference between the two lenses is to be seen outside the APS-C image area. The DG has a more flexible macro facility; the APO just has closer focus at 300mm. The APO doesn't work any better than the DG with the Kenko MC4 Pz-AF DG 2x teleconverter.

Review of: Cosina ( Petri, Vivitar VMC) Cosinon W MC 35mm F2.8 by dme on Sun July 15, 2012 | Rating: 9 View more reviews 
cos35w28mc2.jpg

Views: 36120
Reviews: 4
In size and construction, this lens most closely resembles a Pentax A 50 mm f1.7, although the focus turns the opposite way to the Pentax standard, and it has no A setting. I bought it to give me f2.8 at 35mm, before I bought the Tamron AF 17-50mm F2.8 XR LD Aspherical IF SP. At f2.8 I think it is superior to the excellent Tamron zoom, and it is also superior to the two ancient preset 35mm f2.8 lenses I bought for Video use. But I don't make much use of it.

Review of: Tokina SL28 28mm F2.8 by dme on Sun July 15, 2012 | Rating: 9 View more reviews 
tokinaSL28-1.JPG

Views: 25617
Reviews: 6
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/members/47071-dme/albums/5392-lenses/picture46052.html Mine is the 49mm filter version. It has a 5-bladed aperture mechanism. It has the A connectors, so I can set the aperture from the camera, and as a consequence the lens is flash-friendly. The mount is engraved K/R, but I don't have any 'Ricoh-pin' problems mounting and dismounting it. I had to remove a metal shroud that protects the aperture lever were the lens to be placed on a hard surface without a rear lens cap. This shroud extends further round than its equivalent on a genuine Pentax lens, and snags the PowerZoom connectors on my Samsung GX20. But removing it was simply a matter of undoing some tiny screws in the base. The lens as a whole is about the same size as a Pentax-M 50mm f1.4. It seems nicely built. At f2.8 this lens is probably sharper than any other lens I own, zoom or prime, when that other lens is wide open at 28mm, the best of the rest being the Tamron AF 17-50mm F2.8 XR LD Aspherical IF SP. The other primes are 3 Vivitars (according to http://photografica.robinparmar.com/vivitar28detail.html, a T91, a K02 and a K03), and a CPC Phase 2, that I understand is identical to a Pentax A 28mm f2.8, except for its lens coating. The other zooms are Pentax F 28-80, Pentax FA 28-90, Pentax FAJ 28-80, Pentax FA-PZ 28-105 and the Samsung 28-55 Mark 2. The only drawbacks I have found are that focus goes the opposite way to the Pentax lenses, and it only takes 90° to go from close focus to infinity. I can focus very quickly, but the focus is very sensitive, and I have to remember which way I am supposed to turn it!



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